Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[EUCzero]

Regarding bad range. It is VERY simple to measure the battery voltage with a multimeter. So if you suspect something wrong, just spend 15minutes measuring the voltage on each of the battery plugs.

Take off the seat. Then 4 screws taking off the lid with the charge ports. There you fint 5 yellow plugs. 4 of them are the batteries. You will see witch is witch very easily.

This is if you have v2 (or higher)...:

If you do not have a multimeter, you can unplugg one battery and the wheel should still work. Plug it back in, then unplug the next.. then the next untill all 4 is tested. If the wheel stops working at some point during this test one battery is dead.

 

 

 

Edited October 31, 2022 by EUCzero

[Cerbera]

1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

What I understand is that there is a fix for the display. It is a NEW different board. Not the display itself, but a very small board attached to the mainboard.

Seems typically Begode bodge style, but none of us thought they'd fix it with firmware hey ? And at least this doesn't require a whole new MB to sort out, which 'should' mean they might be happier to send these parts to dealers en-masse - presumably they are quite cheap ! In a way I didn't really expect them to publicise, and 'announce' the fix, as this is hardly as severe or crucial as the stator slip issue or battery fires that have prompted announcements before.

I wonder if that little satellite board replaces one already there or if it is additional ? And does it work with all versions, or the does the cold thing only apply to the V2's ?!

Edited October 31, 2022 by Cerbera

[EMA]

30 minutes ago, Mrd777 said:

At least twice my range at speed on my 1800 MSP. The Master is thirsty, I don’t see the point of it for only 12 - 15 mile speed runs. 

check your batteries like already said, master doesn't have the range of a 2700wh EXN but has a lot more than a 1800wh wheel, a tour would be nice too  

[Robse]

2 hours ago, EUCzero said:

What I understand is that there is a fix for the display. It is a NEW different board. Not the display itself, but a very small board attached to the mainboard.

I know what this board is.

 

 

 

it's a miniature toaster.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[EUCzero]

Cerbera.... the new board replace a similar board. It is only a few components different what I read. But when I get it I will make some photos and video.

It is the same board someone found some bad soldering on. I think it is a bucket converter. 134volts to 12Volt regulator that do not work when it is cold. It is not a big deal, but it is getting dark outside, and I need my headlights 😉

 

[Rawnei]

2 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Cerbera.... the new board replace a similar board. It is only a few components different what I read. But when I get it I will make some photos and video.

It is the same board someone found some bad soldering on. I think it is a bucket converter. 134volts to 12Volt regulator that do not work when it is cold. It is not a big deal, but it is getting dark outside, and I need my headlights 😉

 

To me the headlight is quite a big deal. 😅

We literally live in the batcave here for many months.

[Cerbera]

Meanwhile, god continues to wee in my provberbial sleeping bag and compromise my tank-ification plans for the Master.

Got my custom battery pack satin steel plates today, which would have been perfect had they only not been uniformly bent in transit, despite some very robust packaging ! Fortunately I have been able to bend them straight again by clamping them under the fridge ! Dear oh dear. My 3D parts aren't 100% either ! Got a solidly printed TPU rear stand solidifier, which works very well at standing the wheel AND reinforcing / cushioning that metal bracket, and the replacement charge port cover from thingiverse, which I haven't tried yet because I have to lose the rubber thing altogether to make it fit. I presume it will fit snugly once I have removed it. Onwards and upwards !

 

[Aztek]

Although I feel a bit of play when I grab the upper part of the wheel and push it back and forth, I don't feel any of it while riding. 

It is strange that it annoys so much of the other riders.

[Rawnei]

2 hours ago, Aztek said:

Although I feel a bit of play when I grab the upper part of the wheel and push it back and forth, I don't feel any of it while riding. 

It is strange that it annoys so much of the other riders.

Depends on how you ride I suppose, if you like to do technical off road in hard mode for instance it is like jittery unpleasant noise, when you're off roading you want to feel what you are doing and not phantom jebaits.

[Unipilot69]

My master is mechanicaly tight but in hard mode the motor has dead band slop. It's the same type of slop when I pick up my RS using the lift cutoff switch. My RS is the first generation with large bearings and old control board not capable of firmware update. I tried to update my master with @Freestyler firmware but it seems Begotway put firmware on mine that rejects an update. The Begode posted firmware is different from what they flashed on mine. I'm leaving mine as is for now until I can flash @Freestylerpwm tilt back firmware. At least I didn't brick the control board.

 

[Aztek]

11 hours ago, Rawnei said:

if you like to do technical off road

Oh yes, I regularly go off-road and jump on and off curbs, stairs and other terrain features. Just don't feel the play at all. This makes me think the others have bigger movement or entirely different problem.

Might be even in the way the feet are positioned and how tight the pads are Infront and behind the lower legs (I keep them loose I.e. bigger distance between the front and back one).

Edited November 1, 2022 by Aztek

[Aztek]

9 hours ago, Unipilot69 said:

motor has dead band slop

What exactly is that? Some kind of delay you are experiencing in certain conditions?

[Rawnei]

54 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Oh yes, I regularly go off-road and jump on and off curbs, stairs and other terrain features. Just don't feel the play at all. This makes me think the others have bigger movement or entirely different problem.

Might be even in the way the feet are positioned and how tight the pads are Infront and behind the lower legs (I keep them loose I.e. bigger distance between the front and back one).

On this type of technical off-road on rocks and roots you feel everything (timestamped):

 

https://youtu.be/G8hclY2epSs?t=742

[Aztek]

5 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

On this type of technical off-road on rocks and roots you feel everything (timestamped):

 

https://youtu.be/G8hclY2epSs?t=742

I do this too, more extreme terrain though. There must be substantial difference in the "play effect" between the master units out there. Or qualitatively different problem.

[Rawnei]

48 minutes ago, Aztek said:

I do this too, more extreme terrain though. There must be substantial difference in the "play effect" between the master units out there. Or qualitatively different problem.

Yeah probably, people reporting varying degrees of play and Begode isn't exactly known for consistency or quality.

[Unipilot69]

4 hours ago, Aztek said:

What exactly is that? Some kind of delay you are experiencing in certain conditions?

There is slight forward and backward play from centered when balancing. Similar to chain slop on a chain driven pedal unicycle. 

In medium mode it is not very noticable. I ride in medium mode. Hard mode hurts my feet. I ride both street and off road. 

[Cerbera]

What sort of current and voltage alarms are people setting in EUC World for their Masters ? It's too early for me to know what all the typical values are...

Edited November 3, 2022 by Cerbera

[taiguy]

On 10/31/2022 at 6:19 AM, EUCzero said:

Regarding bad range. It is VERY simple to measure the battery voltage with a multimeter. So if you suspect something wrong, just spend 15minutes measuring the voltage on each of the battery plugs.

Take off the seat. Then 4 screws taking off the lid with the charge ports. There you fint 5 yellow plugs. 4 of them are the batteries. You will see witch is witch very easily.

This is if you have v2 (or higher)...:

If you do not have a multimeter, you can unplugg one battery and the wheel should still work. Plug it back in, then unplug the next.. then the next untill all 4 is tested. If the wheel stops working at some point during this test one battery is dead.

 

 

 

If I wanted to measure the battery voltage of the entire wheel and not individual packs, I should be able to take a reading off the charge port right? What's the pin configuration?

My charger goes green and turns off, but EUC world reports my voltage being lower than 134.4

[UtahRider]

4 hours ago, Cerbera said:

What sort of current and voltage alarms are people setting in EUC World for their Masters ? It's too early for me to know what all the typical values are...

I only use PWM alarm set to 80% on my Master and all other alarms disabled. Too many alarms gets confusing. Hasn’t failed me yet.

[Cerbera]

1 minute ago, UtahRider said:

I only use PWM alarm set to 80%

Cheers. Would you mind explaining what that means briefly ?

 

[EUCzero]

Charger goes green when the amperage gets to a certain value, not the voltage. 

But normally the amperage goes low because it is very close to the max voltage of the battery.

By letting the wheel charge another hour after going green, it might top out the batteries while balancing. Most chargers do not turn off when it goes green. (But some do).

Also keep in mind that the voltage measuring is always a bit inaccurate.  So don't care about half voltage up or down.

[mrelwood]

1 hour ago, taiguy said:

If I wanted to measure the battery voltage of the entire wheel and not individual packs, I should be able to take a reading off the charge port right? What's the pin configuration?

I’m not sure if Master has a “live” charge port. One would think that GW would’ve also improved their design in the last 7 years that others have had protected charge ports…

But if you’ll try, use 2cm long pieces from a straw, shrink tubing or other tubes that you can use to prevent the multimeter prongs from slipping and shorting. Otherwise it’s WAY too easy to melt your prongs and the charge port, and possibly other parts of the wheel as well.

 

1 hour ago, taiguy said:

My charger goes green and turns off, but EUC world reports my voltage being lower than 134.4

I’m also not sure if the Master charger turns off when it turns green. Generally the balancing should still keep going.

 

46 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Cheers. Would you mind explaining what that means briefly ?

The EUC motor is driven with a PWM signal that switches between a certain voltage and off. The PWM percentage is the width of the “on” section of the signal. When it reaches 100%, the wheel is using all it’s might and can’t give out any more power for balancing or accelerating.

PWM warning is the best and safest single warning an EUC can have, because it takes the most environmental factors into account. 80% leaves a reasonable head room for you to back out.

 Although, having only an audible beep is a horribly dangerous overlook from Begode, and countless people have paid the price. That’s why installing @Freestyler’s PWM tilt-back firmware is the best thing you can do to any Begode:

https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/28115-making-begode-wheels-safer-pwm-tiltback-with-custom-firmware/

Edited November 3, 2022 by mrelwood

[EMA]

2 hours ago, taiguy said:

If I wanted to measure the battery voltage of the entire wheel and not individual packs, I should be able to take a reading off the charge port right? What's the pin configuration?

My charger goes green and turns off, but EUC world reports my voltage being lower than 134.4

simply disconnect the board and use it's port to read voltage 

my board read 133.4 but batteries are 134.4

[taiguy]

33 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

The EUC motor is driven with a PWM signal that switches between a certain voltage and off. The PWM percentage is the width of the “on” section of the signal. When it reaches 100%, the wheel is using all it’s might and can’t give out any more power for balancing or accelerating.

PWM warning is the best and safest single warning an EUC can have, because it takes the most environmental factors into account. 80% leaves a reasonable head room for you to back out.

 Although, having only an audible beep is a horribly dangerous overlook from Begode, and countless people have paid the price. That’s why installing @Freestyler’s PWM tilt-back firmware is the best thing you can do to any Begode:

https://forum.electricunicycle.org/topic/28115-making-begode-wheels-safer-pwm-tiltback-with-custom-firmware/

Just read through that thread, super cool! It doesn't seem like the custom firmware is in distribution though? I can use the EUC-Dash website to connect to my wheel, and it seems to reads logs just fine. I need to message @Freestyler if I want to try the custom firmware though right?

[Cerbera]

38 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

PWM warning is the best and safest single warning an EUC can have, because it takes the most environmental factors into account. 80% leaves a reasonable head room for you to back out.

Thank you. EUC world doesn't seem to have a PWM alarm, or is it called something else ? Maybe Safety Margin ?