Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension

[Kutvis]

9 hours ago, EMA said:

it's a good sign that sliders are firms, still weird btw, did you have another master to compare ?

yes the rod used on the EX had a similar system

how was the fit on your unit ? any tip ? btw i'm glad the wheel performs better now

Fit is good, but it doesn't remove the slack. The slack stays the same but screws can be more loose (don't matter if I tighten them more).

Today as I was riding a lot more in city and did some technical the slack really really REALLY bothered me. @EUCzero might be on something with the idea of the motor.. I might agree, but it is so hard to pinpoint. The slack is there even if the suspension screws are tightened so much the suspension won't move at all kinda proves this as the bushings don't move in the bushing base almost at all, but on other hand, 4 a bit loose bushing bases and 4 loose bushings to rod's.. might still cause this.

What other riders think, should I try to set some thread lock between the bushing and the bushing base when I swap winter tire?

The wheel rocks anyway, I have never dare to do more than a few stairs on my non-suspension wheels. On this one 7 set is absolutely nothing! I did bottom out my Rockshox several times with 235psi on some landings though, I think I need 4 spacers and pump it up to 300psi minimum.

 

[Mango]

Tightening the set screw doesn't help on my Master. I think there is play at the motor connection, but I'll have to confirm when I do a tire change.

The play on mine is borderline frustrating/annoying but with part  mental meditation and part denial, it's something I can live with, for now.

I checked out the play on the Master at eevees and their floor model also has it, but to a lesser degree.

My T4 is rock solid, as is on all the other T4s I have tried. I think Begode is aware of the problem, and hope they come out with a fix for affected customers.

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Kutvelo said:

Fit is good, but it doesn't remove the slack. The slack stays the same but screws can be more loose (don't matter if I tighten them more).

Today as I was riding a lot more in city and did some technical the slack really really REALLY bothered me. @EUCzero might be on something with the idea of the motor.. I might agree, but it is so hard to pinpoint. The slack is there even if the suspension screws are tightened so much the suspension won't move at all kinda proves this as the bushings don't move in the bushing base almost at all, but on other hand, 4 a bit loose bushing bases and 4 loose bushings to rod's.. might still cause this.

What other riders think, should I try to set some thread lock between the bushing and the bushing base when I swap winter tire?

The wheel rocks anyway, I have never dare to do more than a few stairs on my non-suspension wheels. On this one 7 set is absolutely nothing! I did bottom out my Rockshox several times with 235psi on some landings though, I think I need 4 spacers and pump it up to 300psi minimum.

 

You need bottomless rings not more psi, 3-4 rings maybe, I currently have 4 rings in mine that I'm evaluating, your psi should give you 30% sag as you get on the wheel, for me that's about 210psi (95kg geared).

Edited October 30, 2022 by Rawnei

[Elliott Reitz]

51 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

You need bottomless rings not more psi, 3-4 rings maybe, I currently have 4 rings in mine that I'm evaluating, your psi should give you 30% sag as you get on the wheel, for me that's about 210psi (95kg geared).

Do you (or anyone here) know the 25-30% sag pressure for 175 lbs rider weight (geared)?  I set mine to 250 psi and I think its pretty stiff, and haven't bottomed it on 1' curb-drops.  I'm still dealing with the defective tire (its not round, WTF Kenda?).  When I get a new tire on it maybe it will ride better without underinflating the tire to 13 psi. 

 

[Rawnei]

6 minutes ago, Elliott Reitz said:

Do you (or anyone here) know the 25-30% sag pressure for 175 lbs rider weight (geared)?  I set mine to 250 psi and I think its pretty stiff, and haven't bottomed it on 1' curb-drops.  I'm still dealing with the defective tire (its not round, WTF Kenda?).  When I get a new tire on it maybe it will ride better without underinflating the tire to 13 psi. 

 

All shocks are different, Rockshox Monarch RT3 is 30% and it has markings on it so you can easily adjust it.

[Sprite]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

You need bottomless rings not more psi, 3-4 rings maybe, I currently have 4 rings in mine that I'm evaluating, your psi should give you 30% sag as you get on the wheel, for me that's about 210psi (95kg geared).

When you say bottomless rings do you mean volume reducers?

[Rawnei]

15 minutes ago, Sprite said:

When you say bottomless rings do you mean volume reducers?

Yes, volume spacers for the monarchs are called bottomless rings.

[Kutvis]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

You need bottomless rings not more psi, 3-4 rings maybe, I currently have 4 rings in mine that I'm evaluating, your psi should give you 30% sag as you get on the wheel, for me that's about 210psi (95kg geared).

I have 3 rings now and 235psi, a bit under 90kg geared. I bottom at the end of stairs/if I launch out of bigger curb. I think I go 5 spacers (full for monarch rt3 I think) + raise psi after if necessary

Edited October 30, 2022 by Kutvelo

[Rawnei]

54 minutes ago, Kutvelo said:

I have 3 rings now and 235psi, a bit under 90kg geared. I bottom at the end of stairs/if I launch out of bigger curb. I think I go 5 spacers (full for monarch rt3 I think) + raise psi after if necessary

Are you on stock links or Kuba links ?

[Kutvis]

2 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Are you on stock links or Kuba links ?

Kuba's

[Sprite]

3 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Yes, volume spacers for the monarchs are called bottomless rings.

Ah I see, I'm going to be running kuba link with monarch RT3 shock, now I'm thinking I should add some bottomless rings as well. Are these the correctg ones?

https://smile.amazon.com/Rockshox-Bottomless-Ring-Monarch-Vivid/dp/B09NP5T2JV

[Mrd777]

Well just got my 40t Master and I’ve had three rides on it. It’s quite a large wheel and seems best on open road action. 
This evening I did a spirited 11.5 mile ride mostly above 30 mph, but averaged 24 mph with a top speed of 38.8 mph , all recorded on a Garmin gps. Total ride was 30 minutes and my last few miles the wheel was beeping as my battery was at 30% when done. 
    Seems quite disappointing that this is all I’m getting from this wheel.. lots of sag from the 40t. Temperature was 51 f. degrees,and I’m 165 lbs without gear.I immediately opened up the wheel to see if all the battery packs were connected.. they were. 
any  insight?

 

[UtahRider]

9 hours ago, Elliott Reitz said:

Do you (or anyone here) know the 25-30% sag pressure for 175 lbs rider weight (geared)?  I set mine to 250 psi and I think its pretty stiff, and haven't bottomed it on 1' curb-drops.  I'm still dealing with the defective tire (its not round, WTF Kenda?).  When I get a new tire on it maybe it will ride better without underinflating the tire to 13 psi. 

 

Tie a string or zip tie on upper part of shock then stand on it without bouncing, dismount gingerly and measure how far down the string/zip tie is from top of shock. About 1” is proper sag.

[UtahRider]

5 hours ago, Mrd777 said:

Well just got my 40t Master and I’ve had three rides on it. It’s quite a large wheel and seems best on open road action. 
This evening I did a spirited 11.5 mile ride mostly above 30 mph, but averaged 24 mph with a top speed of 38.8 mph , all recorded on a Garmin gps. Total ride was 30 minutes and my last few miles the wheel was beeping as my battery was at 30% when done. 
    Seems quite disappointing that this is all I’m getting from this wheel.. lots of sag from the 40t. Temperature was 51 f. degrees,and I’m 165 lbs without gear.I immediately opened up the wheel to see if all the battery packs were connected.. they were. 
any  insight?

 

My Master 40T rides average 23 miles with 45 mph bursts and average speed about 25 mph. All rides have been between 45 and 60 degree weather. My weight is 210 lbs and I have more than 50% battery at end of the rides almost always. For your weight, I’d expect better range. What app are you using to check battery percentage? I’ve noticed a big difference between darknessbot and Begode apps especially when you change kilometers to miles, Begode shows about 30% more than darknessbot.

[EUCzero]

I do not have any other Masters nearby, but others I have talked to seam to have the same feeling. That the play is not from the sliders.

Saturday I took the wheel apart. Almost every screw and bolt was unscrewed. 😉

I am now 99% sure the play on my wheel is not mechanical play. Unless it is inside the wheelhub (extremely unlikely). 

During this week I will test that as well.

 

Light and display issue. (Parts are now on the way from China)...:

Yesterday I had a scary experience. 😨.  Got the wheel warm after 15min of riding. Lights and display finally working. Riding around having a relaxing time. Then. On a long downhill the wheel most have cooled down, because after 3 flashes, the headlight just died. Me going 50km/h downhill on a gravel road. Suddenly pitch black.  YYYYIIIAH HAAA!!!

Let's just say I slowed down after.

It was only 3 degrees C out.

 

[Rawnei]

6 hours ago, Sprite said:

Ah I see, I'm going to be running kuba link with monarch RT3 shock, now I'm thinking I should add some bottomless rings as well. Are these the correctg ones?

https://smile.amazon.com/Rockshox-Bottomless-Ring-Monarch-Vivid/dp/B09NP5T2JV

Yes those are the correct ones.

21 minutes ago, EUCzero said:

Light and display issue. (Parts are now on the way from China)..

 

Can you elaborate a bit on what they are sending you? Which replacement parts and just same version some new version?

[Cerbera]

Has anyone found a glue that will stick to the Master's padding yet, particularly the top seat so we can add bumper strip over the cable gap.

Even Branded industrial sticky velcro is failing there for me - wondering if I should bring a bit more power / help to the table with a bit of Araldite Standard or Rapid or similar, which says it is fine for plastics, material and rubber (except polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon) I wondered if anyone knew for sure what that material was, and what sort of glues other people had tried, and whether they worked !

Cheers.

Edited October 31, 2022 by Cerbera

[Kutvis]

5 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Has anyone found a glue that will stick to the Master's padding yet, particularly the top seat so we can add bumper strip over the cable gap.

Even Branded industrial sticky velcro is failing there for me - wondering if I should bring a bit more power / help to the table with a bit of Araldite Standard or Rapid or similar, which says it is fine for plastics, material and rubber (except polyethylene, polypropylene, Teflon) I wondered if anyone knew for sure what that material was, and what sort of glues other people had tried, and whether they worked !

Cheers.

You need to use primer, the pad sweats grease.

Also use hairdryer/heat gun to warm up the adhessive after sticking it. Just try first on some excess piece, it is easy to burn the velcro

Edited October 31, 2022 by Kutvelo

[EMA]

8 hours ago, Mrd777 said:

averaged 24 mph with a top speed of 38.8 mph

average 24mph is a lot, did you have the voltage ?

master voltage range is 98v-134v and 119v is around 50%

Edited October 31, 2022 by EMA

[Mrd777]

1 hour ago, EMA said:

average 24mph is a lot, did you have the voltage ?

master voltage range is 98v-134v and 119v is around 50%

I was definitely moving, zipping around for that 1/2 hour run, almost always at 30mph. Voltage was 112.80 V at the end of my trip.

im not impressed if this is all she’s got.

[EUCzero]

What I understand is that there is a fix for the display. It is a NEW different board. Not the display itself, but a very small board attached to the mainboard.

[EMA]

48 minutes ago, Mrd777 said:

I was definitely moving, zipping around for that 1/2 hour run, almost always at 30mph. Voltage was 112.80 V at the end of my trip.

im not impressed if this is all she’s got.

you have "only" 1900wh, what do you get from others 1800wh wheels ?

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, EUCzero said:

What I understand is that there is a fix for the display. It is a NEW different board. Not the display itself, but a very small board attached to the mainboard.

It's a bit odd I wonder how display and lights are related, they don't seem to use the same circuitry, also if we are talking about completely new parts here to fix a fault shouldn't ever Master owner be notified and get the parts needed?

I swear, when I get my battery and get everything working I will probably see the same problem and have to wait for this part because there is 0 pro-activity going on.

[Mrd777]

55 minutes ago, EMA said:

you have "only" 1900wh, what do you get from others 1800wh wheels ?

At least twice my range at speed on my 1800 MSP. The Master is thirsty, I don’t see the point of it for only 12 - 15 mile speed runs. 

[Rawnei]

11 hours ago, Mrd777 said:

Well just got my 40t Master and I’ve had three rides on it. It’s quite a large wheel and seems best on open road action. 
This evening I did a spirited 11.5 mile ride mostly above 30 mph, but averaged 24 mph with a top speed of 38.8 mph , all recorded on a Garmin gps. Total ride was 30 minutes and my last few miles the wheel was beeping as my battery was at 30% when done. 
    Seems quite disappointing that this is all I’m getting from this wheel.. lots of sag from the 40t. Temperature was 51 f. degrees,and I’m 165 lbs without gear.I immediately opened up the wheel to see if all the battery packs were connected.. they were. 
any  insight?

Record a tour and share it here if you want us to help analyze it, heads-up one of my Master batteries was broken resulting in shit range and poor range was the only indicator that something was wrong since wheel was working and charging to 134v with only 2 of the 4 batteries and no BMS telling you something is wrong, could be worth checking your batteries with a multi-meter.