Issah

The same in Norway. The margin of error is acceptable within 22 kph over the limit of 20 kph. It's painfully slow, and honestly the limit should if anything be at 30 kph.

Metro train driver.

I canceled my pre-order for this wheel back in July. But today, I got a mail from the seller that it had been packed and was ready for shipping. Now, I can't decide if I'm just gonna take the wheel anyway and see how it goes. I know the wheels has issues, but tbh I'm kinda torn.

So, Update: I calibrated it, tire did essentially no moving, then I updated it back to 2.02 and re-calibrated it again. Again tire basically did not move, only slightly, as I was holding on the handle and that might sliightly affect the gyro. tested out sharp turns with the trolley, and it no longer does the strange tilting that it did when it came out of the box. Now I can also be reasonably sure that it's more or less perfectly level.

Thank you, I will try this!

Hey this is a great idea! I tried calibrating my wheel by putting one pedal arm up on the side of a small cabinet, but my problem is that the wheel will start spinning until cutout when I lessen my grip on the handle. How do you deal with this while calibrating?

I dont have a great way to make sure the wheel is perfectly upright in both directions. I'm mostly eyeballing it. It has to lean up against something , for example. I'm going to get a stand soon, I think.

Hello folks. The other day I finally decided to get a 16X, and have been loving it so far. I think the trolley handle is a little loose feeling at its most extended, but that's besides the point. It came with 2.02 pre-installed, and I didn't really bother changing it, until I noticed that while turning sharply, specifically to the left, at low speeds, the wheel would tilt back significantly. Doing the same in a right turn did not reproduce this behaviour, and the tiltback was so extreme it became a chore to ride it. Even going at low speed in a straight line I felt like I was slowly rocking the tilt back and forth. All on the Hard riding setting. I have, in an effort to make this behavior stop, calibrated it twice, to no avail, and since downgraded to 1.07. Riding it at 1.07 seems to have eliminated this problem. I took a long ride after work today on the older FW and didn't seem to feel that tilting anymore. My body leaning slightly differently in how I lean left or right did at times make it feel like it was tilting ever so slightly, but only at increadibly sharp turns did it seem to actually tilt at all. Safe to say I had an absolute blast riding it. So nimble and torque'y. In the two days I've had it I also dropped it twice. Once in motion, tire slipped on a wet, old low curb, scraped the thick part of the pedal a bit. And then again today, dropping it on some mixed gravel and stone as I failed to go up an incline, cus I wasn't clamping the shell, lol. Got up no problem once I adjusted my ride behavior though. Oh well, can't keep it pristine forever. Might as well get the scuffing over with.

The new one is the MSP Msuper Pro. The MSX has been discontinued. The new one has a more powerful motor, and a bigger battery, stronger headlights and a speaker.

The main difference in the V11 and S18's Suspensions, are that on the V11, the pedals areThe only thing pushing down on the suspension. It's purely for comfort, and will in my opinion, not perform as well as the S18's because of how the wheel assembly, with batteries and all will all be moving up and down as you move over bumps in the road or terrain. On the S18, the suspension carries the weight of all the batteries, leaving the wheel the only part actively travelling up and down as it travels over bumps. There's a reason why high-performance rims on cars weigh very little. The suspension presses the wheels down onto the road, the faster the wheel can absorb an impact and carry as little inertia as possible means you have more contact with the ground. I feel like the V11's system is more a top-mounted cushion, whereas the S18's is an actual "Suspension." The effectiveness and comfort of suspension relies entirely on how effectively it can absorb bumps while transferring as little energy as possible to the rider, or in the case of a car, the chassis.

I don't know if Inmotion has the whole assembly on the suspension, or if it's only the rider/Pedals that are on the suspension. But I know for a fact, that you want as much as possible of the assembly to be "Sprunt" if you want good suspension feel. It would feel sluggish and cumbersome if say, you only put the rider on the suspension, as Inertia will be added onto by the batteries as they travel up and down during bumps. If the S18 does this right, I'll be thrilled. Already looking forwards to my order of the wheel coming through.

I have pre-ordered this wheel, set for production in June. I currently own a Gotway MSX 84v, and while the battery size is smaller, I already don't ever really ride my MSX out of charge in a single trip. My decision to get on this early was mostly that I just want to experience the suspension. I want a more convenient wheel as well, but let's not lie. I wanna know what this is about, and by now I expect the first batch of wheels to be well made.

I changed it. I thought I had already set the option in the app, honestly.

Hello everybody. I want to clear my brain of some worries and listen to input about this from other riders who may have more knowledge on this than me. On a group ride in late Feb, I rode about 45km and returned home with 35% battery remaining. Pretty good for a day spent going up long hills as well as down them, in temps between 4-7C Just recently after that, I decided to get some Silicone and made a custom gasket for my sidepanels. Just as an insurance against any future water ingress. There's obviously been some water in my color LED's because on the left side they spaz out, even when not set to be turned on as I ride. But I don't really care about them, and I don't even know how to get into them in the first place. Okay, so with that metric as my background, my following issue is this. I took my wheel out for a ride of about 20km the other day, and felt like the battery had drained substantially more than I was expecting. I will link a few EUCWorld tours at the end of this for anyone to look at. I didn't think too much more about it, and went about my day. Then I had another ride, and again, I was wondering why the battery level dropped so far down after such a short drive. These rides have all been in temps around 3-8C on a tire that measures around 1.6-7 bars pressure. Secondly, and this might be completely unrelated: Looking at EUCWorld, the battery indicator in the app does not update nearly as smoothly as it did before. It used to be that it would respond completely linearly with the load you put on the wheel, so that you could know if pushing it a certain amount with how much battery was remaining, to 0% (In the app, anyway) However, this is no longer the case. Now it updates very, very rarely. If that is related to my wheel or not, I don't know, but I thought it was worth noting, in case anyone else has seen this too. 20km ride from earlier today. 13Km ride from earlier today

Barring any serious issue with the control board itself, the MSX is a hard ride on all modes. I ride it on "Soft" and it has very little give, but you can feel the wheel lean back and forwards when you accelerate and brake, but it's very minute compared to wheels like KS 18. I suggest you ride it on soft, and learn how to press down on one pedal with the balls of your toes on one side to really draw out more of the power, as opposed to only having to lean. On medium and Hard, it's like riding on a wooden plank on concrete, no matter how you lean.