meepmeepmayer

Not sure if this is a bug or just normal behavior. Two things: As soon as the wheel is turning, the anti-spin button and power button will be disabled. This is a safety mechanism to prevent a crash when riding, from accidental button presses or electrical errors in the buttons. It's that way on all electric unicycles. The wheel not stopping might be just that you hold it un-tilted, so it behaves as it should (keeps its speed). Otherwise, why would it stop as soon as you put it on the floor? The wheel doesn't know if it's on the floor or not. If it was an error, why does it stop then, instead of keeping spinning? A wheel is only controlled by its tilt. It accelerates into the direction of the tilt until the tilt goes away. That's literally all it does. So if you hold it up tilted but it does not accelerate (and ultimately shut down), that would mean it does not balance properly at all. So why don't you crash when you try to ride it? You can easily test this part (I call it a "lift test"). Lift the wheel (without the anti-spin button) and control its speed by controlling the tilt. You'll see if it rapidly accelerates and then shuts down when you keep holding it tilted (normal behavior), or if something else happens. Not to dimiss your concerns, maybe it's something that shouldn't be there. Especially if it clearly behaves inconsistently. A problem with the anti-spin button? A balancing problem? But the by far easiest explanation is that you press the anti-spin button too late/it activates too slow (there will be like a ~2kph threshold where it deactivates) and then hold your V11 horizontal (not tilted) so it sees no need to speed up or slow down. Try, and if you're unsure then, describe the behavior in detail and we can figure it out. Maybe it really is a bug, albeit a mysterious one.

I hope it's an error and not some stupid protectionism thing from the manufacturers showing itself! Or maybe it's related to battery troubles?

Can't find any EUCs on Ali either (from Germany). Just some parts.

It's still 2p (presumably), so the battery isn't "stronger" than the old one, just bigger. No allowance for more speed, there's the V10F for that. The V8S seems to be the V8F replacement, just with the different cells they use now.

Wow, that's significant! This might point to 40 21700 cells (instead of 40 18650s). I wonder how they found the space.

It's not about climbing steep hills. It's a torture test for the electronics. You see if and how they survive. Nothing puts more stress on the electronics than very quickly inducing some prolonged extreme stress (less time for heat to dissipate). If the wheel survives, it's certainly good for everyday life. If it fails, that just shows the electronics (cables, mosfets, etc.) were simply too small as they should not have gotten that hot in the first place (you could always design for the battery's theoretical max amperage). Or at least it shows the temperature alarm isn't good enough (sensor not actually on the mosfets) to warn you in time if everything happens too fast. I applaud Begode and Veteran for not having simple firmware limits to current (or whatever), like presumably IM and KS have, or at least having higher limits. Allowing the full power of the hardware to be used, hopefully making the case for bigger components.

Please post in English on this forum. https://translate.google.com/

@Darius This has been moved to the escooter forum. Good luck with the sale!

Semi-related: https://arstechnica.com/science/2021/05/eternally-five-years-away-no-batteries-are-improving-under-your-nose/

!!! With what app?

Any wheel that has been working perfectly for 6 months is unlikely to suddenly fail. This fire was an mten3 that was bad from the factory, which seems to be the case for nearly all serious failures. But of course better safe than sorry.

You can do a lift test: Open the app (stick to one app on one phone to prevent settings getting changed unnoticed) to have a speed display. Put the phone somewhere so you can see the speed. Lift your wheel up (not using the anti spin button), and carefully control its tilt to control the speed. When the wheel is horizontal, it is going to stay at the same speed. By slightly tilting the wheel forward for a moment before you hold it horizontal again, you can speed it up so it stays at a higher (but constant!) speed. This way, you can precisely control the speed, even in 1kph/1mph increments. This is so you can see what happens at what speed. The wheel doesn't know it is lifted. Slowly increase the speed, and see what happens. If at any speed the wheel spins up rapidly until it beeps and eventually shuts down, that is a tiltback at that speed. The wheel initiates a tiltback, but you keep holding it horizontal, so it accelerates. But nothing happens, even though it wants to tilt back. So it accelerates. And so on. This causes the rapid acceleration and eventual beeps/shutdown at the max speed. If you do not have a rapid speedup at some speed, there is no tiltback set at that speed. If you clearly hold the wheel horizontal, but it accelerates in one direction, it might be calibrated badly (so neutral isn't at horizontal, but at some tilt angle). A lift test is easy to do and gives more information on what is going on.

@GoGeorgeGo I see it like that - dangers are: Defective from factory right away (bad weld or some other electrical connection somewhere) Water intrusion leads to a fire directly, or water damage (rust etc.) causes damage (worsening some electrical connection) that leads to a fire later Serious mechanical impact (Some cell types just seem to be susceptible... or not, I don't know) I don't think charging itself is a problem. The charging current is below what even the standard charging rate is for the battery cells. They shouldn't get hot at all (discharge when riding is higher, and the batteries don't go up in flames mid-ride). What can happen though is bad electrical connections (welds) from the factory or due to damage over time (maybe from water) getting hot and thus causing the fire. Also I think fires from a dead wheel (= a short) after a curb... are these really common? Not sure. This is just my speculation. - Be careful and observant with new wheels, and any time a wheel shows unexplainable or inconsistent behavior. But once the wheel hasn't caught fire in the first month, I think it is very unlikely to catch fire later without some extra cause.

Added the Nikola AR+ 2700Wh:

Personally, I'd keep everything dry if possible, less of a mess (wet mud will just distribute instead of fall out) and no water intrusion danger.

Excellent point!

This is extremely true! If EUCs don't fail right away (manufacturing defect), then they tend to be good. But till now it was only bad boards and the like, not fires! - Soon on ewheels: mten3 (new) $900 mten3 (slightly used, 46 miles, didn't blow up) $1200 RS HS (new) $1900 RS HS (good as new, 23 miles, didn't blow up) $2200

Seconded! I'm always confused for a moment when I swipe it away but it's still there.

See here:

Finally the 2700Wh Nikola is an official model! Well, almost official (not sure if the Loomo version was). Why didn't they do this 2 years ago already? Not everyone wants a big tire EX, Monster, or Sherman to have some range. I also suspect you'll sell a lot of those...

Speed sells. You can always force more torque out of a wheel, by going "YOLO just use more battery power lol". But you can't force more speed out of a wheel, the motor is wound for a top speed and that's it. So you can always change the firmware to give more torque at the expense of efficiency/range, but you can't increase the designed speed after the fact. I'm not saying I'm liking it, but these are two arguments why manufacturers might in doubt design for speed. I personally would love a super torquey wheel with a big enough tire (like the V12's 16x3) to be comfortable and stable offroad.

Some posts have been put into another topic, to keep this one cleaner, on request from the topic starter:

As relaxed as possible is best. It can help to keep going, roll up to a pole/wall, hold on, and adjust your stance. Try doing it without even looking down, just go by what feels right. You might be surprised where your feet end up on the pedals. But it simply takes time to get used to riding, so just enjoy and you will get better automatically (but don't expect too much too fast). That might be in about 2 weeks or so Also: there's plenty of Vegas riders for group rides and for trying other wheels. Group rides are fantastic in so many respects.

I'm afraid the only solution is: get a stronger wheel. The V8 seems to be too borderline weak (for you at least... what's your weight?). Hope your bones heal fast.