meepmeepmayer

Es gibt höchstwahrscheinlich keine Kennzeichen-/Versicherungspflicht bei nur einem Rad + selbstbalancierend, siehe Grosskopf. Aber manche Leute brauchen eben ihren Ablassbrief. Und zahlen Geld an genau die Lobbyistenvereine, denen wir dann unnötige Regulierung und Verbote zu verdanken haben, weil die ja so schön lukrativ für die sind. Jedes Kinderspielzeug ne teure, unnötige Versicherung! Kennzeichen für Fahrräder! Usw.

Nice shirt

As long as you shift your center of gravity backwards and push on the pedals, you brake. So bending the knees and letting oneself fall back ("sitting down"), and then pushing hard against the pedals (straighten legs) should work for strong/emergency braking. Unless it's so hard you lose traction, then you fall on your butt, which is why I'm too scared to try it

Hehe ok, I'll start one edit: here

Ouch, that looks bad for an arm that had elbow pads on!! Shows again that abrasion is the #1 concern for us wheelers, not worst case hard impacts or so. So the protective gear must not slide off easily. Rocks are indeed evil. This ****er got me last year. Looking forward to see yours. Maybe we can start a crash-causing item collection thread where everyone can post their rocks 'n' potholes

Yep, exactly that. "It was just a reflex!"TM

Haha, my thought experiment is carrying a nice big heavy brick or concrete block or beer crate in both hands (because you gotta transport it somehow, right?) and defensively throwing it at cars' windshields when they cut me off (necessarily, to get momentum to not hit the car myself, of course). Actually, only had one shitty driver so far and a few honkers (most of which were probably approval). All else were quite nice and accommodating. I probably surprise-scared a few car drivers myself. Don't ride much around cars, though, so that may not be representative of the real situation here if you get into competition for road space.

Pedal dip is due to the gyro sensor "drifting" over time or from a bad calibration. It's not intentional. You can (and should) get rid of it by doing a proper calibration. The key to success seems to be, to make sure the wheel is not tilted sideways (pedal angle can be whatever you like, but no sideways tilt) during the entire calibration process. Which may be longer than you think, including after you switched the wheel off and on again (when the actual calibration happens as far as I can remember). There's a Speedy Feet YouTube video how to do a Gotway calibration, details may differ but it gives you the general idea. As already said, wobble is entirely unrelated to the wheel, that's the rider.

This just shows that all manufacturer specs are bullshit and one should never believe them Which is only partly the manufacturers fault. For EUCs, these numbers make no sense. Wheels have no practical, rider-independent top speed, no max incline, no max range, no max payload, etc. (except some numbers where the wheel iterally breaks or can't do it). They just have a maximum power draw. What you use that power for, is up to the rider, whose weight (and speed) is so important. Just like with planes, where nobody says "Plane X has range Y" because it depends on the starting weight a lot. But people want to know "How fast does it go?", "How far does it go?" etc. because for other vehicles (=cars) these questions have fixed answers. For EUCs, not so much. Real specs should look like this: Max nominal power: ...W Max peak power: ...W And then it gets really, really complicated: 60kg rider: up to 45km/h, 80km* range (at 30km/h), up to 20% incline 120kg rider: up to 30km/h, 50km* range (at 30km/h), up to 10% incline (* environment temperature 25°C or higher) And that's the simplified version "Please visit our online calculator and enter these easy 27 different numbers, and then we give you a rough estimate* of what the wheel can do for you!" *Predicions not guaranteed Who would accept vague, widely spread specs like these? Nobody! So the manufacturers have to cheat like every other device does with its specs. "Up to" And because it varies so much, these are really best possible case "up to" numbers, not realistic ones, so essentially worthless. TLDR: Everyone here who believed the 62mile mile range statement for the V10F, I blame them equally for believing this ridiculous number as Inmotion for stating it. Maybe the V10 firmware will be fixed for the hill problem. But the general problem persists as long as specs are even released like this. I get pissed off whenever I see spec sheet of a new wheel with all the lies (the msuper X official top speed is 20km/h)

That would be hilarious! You ride your V10(F) up some hilly path, suddenly it tilts you back and blares at you: "IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL" That is to be expected. More weight (especially weight to be lifted up) means more power draw, current draw, etc.

Maybe @Bobwheel can inquire...

What does "overload" mean, exactly? Too high current or power draw?

Awesome! Thank you especially for the side panel details. Are the vents real vents or decorative?

Nice video, but... 100V msuper X? If that isn't an error, what's the battery size? Please make pictures with a side panel off (how the battery fits in there) and the inside of the side panel, please! edit: saw your pics, thanks!

Kontaktier deinen Verkäufer. Das Problem wird kaum an der Firmware liegen, die ist bei allen wheels gleich, auch denen die gehen. Der soll es dir reparieren oder umtauschen.

@Alien Rides I was only referring to your cliff of death ride, that would be no less impressive at real time speed. Speedup for the other stuff is fine. And Aliens are not out there, they are in there - inside the hollow Earth. Obviously.

@Alien Rides Looks like a nice and varied tour! But fast forwarding during the risky part is cheating Also your username makes it so half of the suggested Youtube videos are some Alien conspiracy crap which is always funny

I do this stuff like @Mono, too. For bumps, I don't "jump" off the wheel before the bump like in your video, but simply bend the knees in the moment of the bump so the wheel only has to lift itself, not my body weight (body stays at same height). This can also help so the wheel isn't held back by the obstacle and can bounce up. Then after the bump, straighten the legs again. Same for down curbs, bend knees so I'm on the right riding height after the curb, and simply push down a little while the curb drop happens, so no contact to the pedals is lost. So essentially, the idea is, the legs deal with the bump/curb/whatever it is, so the wheel only has to deal with its own weight while negotiating the obstacle. Of course it's never perfect, but it does not have to be. Of course that doesn't work for going up bigger curbs, one has to jump I guess. I never do that, so idk. Didn't think about this consciously, I'm just doing it.

Wo gekauft? Klingt so als ob Umtauschen (oder neues board reinbauen lassen) wirklich die beste Lösung ist.

Is that a "Back to the future" or a "Backe to the future" shirt? ?

You want frog pictures? Frog pictures you shall have! Some more here:

Drug frogs, cool! Depending on the wheel (not with the mten3) and if the frog does not block the tire, I'd guess one could outride a collision. It's soft and offers no squishing resistance (I nearly ran over a baby chicken last ride, suddenly dashed across the road.) @Marty Backe It's just the "Hmmm" emoji. So I think I'll live I have a tiny tripod, maybe (maybe) I'll use it.

?????

Hm. Ich würde vorschlagen: Probiers nochmal auf dem perfekt ebensten Boden, den du finden kannst. Falls das nicht klappt, schau dass du es vielleicht absichtlich seitlich kippst beim Kalibrieren. K.A. ob das Sinn macht, bei den alten Gotways war die (fehlende) Seitneigung während der Kalibrierung das Entscheidende, um das pedal dipping wegzukriegen. Kannst damit evtl. rumexperimentieren.