meepmeepmayer

Yep, the red looks absolutely great I just forced myself to buy a different color this year, not sure why. The blue is not too different from black in the end. But I still have to see it in daylight, so maybe it still surprises...

Took me like 3 hours. The tire change was relatively quick (as fine as it can be on a EUC, which is always horrible), but so much dust inside, I cleaned quite a lot (and took my time). Wish there were more colored tires of all types. Purple would fit the ACM so well! Well, the red really looks great on black wheels, if anybody is looking for a nice color. Might be because the photo is blurry and at night Also all my highly professional duct taping isn't visible in the photos. On the other hand, good shape is relative, it could be much worse I guess How do your ACMs look?

Kenda winter/offroad tire on my ACM (2019 version). Works great against the tire slipping when climbing out of a small rut when there's snow, mud, wet grass, etc. - any soft surface where the knobs can dig in. @winterwheel Local art. I went with blue this year. How it looks at 2am here For comparison, last year's tire. Same thing, but in red. Looks much better, but I wanted to try a different color. Of course it's available in black, too, but the red really looks great. Photo taken in the same spot! I have no actual riding photos because the winter dream was over after not even 24 hours, and then it just rained, rained, rained, snowed a little, and rained some more onto the snow. Today was the first mostly dry day

Sold by whom? Ninebot/Segway? Third party seller? I'd be worried about the state of the batteries. Not sure what else could be bad, especially if they are refurbished, so no other worries, but who knows for how long these batteries sat unattended. For the price you could just try and hope for the best.

Doesn't look like a EUC Give me a watertight EUC and a weight belt. I'm serious, this is the standard wheels should be built to. No more worrying driving near water, or through water that would be too deep if you had a run-off and the wheel fell over. Nikola seems to be going in the opposite direction with those unprotected speakers

Or they could just use thicker axles and stronger construction and make their wheels watertight (not just waterproof). Waiting for my first underwater ride at a nice coral reef somewhere

Wow, I'm surprised. 1600Wh are solid 80km/50mile wheels, so 1860Wh should be more. But apparently the higher speed eats it all away. Crazy! What would you estimate your typical range with a 100V Monster would be? Essentially like the MSX because the extra battery is eaten by the speed? I'm getting 85km/52miles if I take your 65mile number for the 2400Wh.

@Girth Brooks For the 100V Monster: Range is something like 90km-100km (58-62 miles). So definitely a solid 90km/60mile wheel. More or less depending on how the stars align. No Gotway dance. Now, about this 84V Monster. Personally, what I really dislike about it, it has the old ACM/msuper V3 style board which just isn't very strong and can pretty reliably be fried on hills if you try. So I guess the low price for this 2400Wh 84V Monster reflects that. (The new 84V Monsters now have the much, much, much better board that is also in the MSX/100V Monster, but I guess this wheel isn't that new.) Others (Marty) will probably disagree about how bad it is and that I'm worrying about nothing, but I'm over this old board. My personal opinion. Sorry if may have spoiled this great offer for you (because the price is really good for what you get!). But it's just something that I personally would care about. On the other hand, there are so many happy Monster owners and I never had one, so maybe better listen to them instead of me.

Hey, they use Pannasonic and GL genuine quality battery cells! Totally nothing suspicious going on there

@Alien Rides Fun video! Fantastic pedalsHow much? They're looking sooo good at 4:48. Hoping the new pedals coming with the Nikola end up being big like that. Awesome!

Is it maybe the outlet? Do you always put your chargers into the same one? Maybe a bad extension cord? Some kind of adapter gone bad? Not sure how much electrical sense that makes, but it's a possible common theme.

My thoughts, exactly

Nobody said that At 4.1125V the firmware reports 100% battery (= 82.25V). So the app will show 100%. But you can keep charging to 4.2V. So 100% charge means 100% battery readout. Not full charge. 2 different things, apparently.

The situation is very simple. A street, a parking lot to the side of the street, and a sidewalk. Everyone on the sidewalk has the right of way over everyone who turns into the parking lot from the street (or comes out). Whoever turns into the parking lot from the street (or exits onto the street) must make sure he does it in a way so nobody on the sidewalk is disturbed (see below what that means). Right of way = someone has priority. Taking that right of way = someone with priority has to brake (or swerve, or whatever) to prevent a potentially dangerous situation or an accident. It's literally the definition as learned in traffic classes: if someone has to brake (or react in any unacceptable way) despite having priority. So Marty had priority and would have had to stop to not hit the car, or evade (what he did), to continue going like there was nobody there, how it should have been in the first place because he had priority in the first place. The car had two good options here: either wait on the street until Marty had passed, or drive into the parking lot quick enough so Marty would have never had to care about it (because he was still far away, never mind there wasn't enough time for that option). That's what I meant. The car did neither and did the next best thing: stop in time so Marty could at least go by, despite having his right of way taken. Damage mitigation. Not sure who had the right of way after everything went down the drain and the car was already stopped on the sidewalk, blocking Marty. But I'm pretty sure you can't just stop on a pedestrian crossing (for example) and go "eh, I'm already on it, so now I can just ignore it and the others gotta wait). This has nothing to do with whether there was a pedestrian or PEV or elephant rider the sidewalk. This has nothing to do with considerateness in traffic. This is only about who would have had the blame according to the rules if there would have been a collision, and it would always have been the car. If traffic police would have been there, they could have cited the car for taking someone's right of way when turning into the lot over the sidewalk.

No, Marty had the right of way. Rules are simple. One direction (as in route, both actual directions) has the right of way, is higher in the hierarchy. The end. In the case of entering something on the side of a street, anything and everything "on" the street has the right of way. Cars, bicycles, pedestrians, even an illegal wrong-way driver or cyclist or pedestrian! So if you want to turn into something, it is your job to not block anyone in the right of way direction, aka "on" the street. You have to look and make sure that doesn't happen. By definition, if someone there has to brake or evade because of you, you took the right of way. Which the car did to Marty. It doesn't matter what he did 5 seconds ago, or 5 hours ago, or if there's a crossing somewhere in the vicinity. What matters is only: Marty was there, coming along on the sidewalk. The car should have seen Marty coming and waited on the street until he passed. Simple as that. Unless it's very different in the UK (or US), this is a clear cut case Good to see we don't have an actual disagreement about the issue, just arguing about a detail that decides what the right thing to do (in both our eyes) is.

No, it applies exactly to the situation. Couldn't be more exemplary It does not matter when the car entered the sidewalk space. It does not matter why he slows down to a crawl there instead of just quickly+efficiently crossing into the parking lot. It does not matter that Marty had to evade the car partially blocking him. What matters, when Marty was where the car is, he had the right of way. (Not the car! The cars job was to cross quickly enough to not block any upcoming right-of-way-"pedestrians", or not cross at all and wait til it could). So Marty took his right of way, as well as he could (evading). Which, except if it would have led to a dangerous situation, is exactly the right thing to do, because it's the predictable behavior there. Imagine a pedestrian trying to cross a freeway (the access-controlled, Autobahn kind of one), climbing over the guard rail, etc. Should a driver brake and "yield" to that moron? So the unsuspecting freeway driver in the next lane runs the pedestrian straight over at 60mph? Does the pedestrian in the middle of the freeway suddenly have the right of way because a driver (a driver, not all of them) could see him being there far in advance (like Marty saw the car)? No! Same idea here. Right of way rules are clear, simple and predictable, which makes observing and predicting traffic situations safe and easy for everyone. Take that away, and have people just make up their ad-hoc rules every time, and you'll only get more accidents and chaos on the streets, and complaints about unchecked crazy PEVs. - On the other hand, what exactly would have been the benefit of Marty yielding to a car in his right of way? Absolutely nothing except maybe a little courtesy or pointless confrontation-avoidance. But making the entire situation much more incalculable for everyone else. What, for example, if some other driver (coming from the direction opposite to Marty's, so on the other side of the road) who wanted to go into the parking lot too, would have seen the car enter the parking lot, falsely assume it did because nothing is in the way? He might have run Marty, continuing after the car crossed, over; or might have had to slam on the brakes in the middle of the road (and in the opposite traffic direction lane to where he was coming from!) to prevent hitting the unexpected obstacle. Unexpected because people were not following the simple and clear rules. - That's my point, and it applies exactly to what is shown in the video. No reason to yield. Good reason not to. Especially if you want to get car drivers used to other, new traffic participants, which is a whole other topic. It's a figure of speech People being hesitant and improvising, instead of just following the simple rules and taking their right of way (or whatever) safely but confidently is a well-known reason for crashes and near-crashes. From overtaking on the right, to yielding to someone nobody expects you to yield to, etc. It just creates a lot of possibly dangerous situations when suddenly something unexpected happens. You only need to be a car driver to observe this. Of course your safety comes first. But not following the rules "just because" without good reason (like your safety) won't help anyone.

This poor guy. Travelling through Europe, EUCing around in all the interesting cities, and now trying all the nice and shiny wheels (MSX, V10). What an ordeal! Me: Him:

Wow, I was wondering what took so long! Cool! You're well-intentioned, but in my opinion... nah: Car drivers won't learn about PEVs until they are forced to, so all this too-defensive stuff leads nowhere. They need to learn and adapt, too. Being too defensive (= easily ignorable) doesn't help. In the same vein, the real problem here is the lack of proper biking infrastructure. The sidewalk should be for pedestrians only. But it isn't. Because it is the only safe and sane choice for a EUC here, because there's no bike path and that road doesn't look too safe to ride in peace. This lack of proper infrastructure will also not be highlighted if there never are any problems as a consequence of this. Nothing more dangerous than silently yielding to people when you don't have to (this has nothing to do with EUCs, applies to anyone in traffic). You add another big uncertainty into the traffic culture, especially for future situations if people can no longer reliably guess which traffic participant is going to do what in any given situation. It can be friendly to just yield for practical reasons, but then it should be done ostentatiously, hyper-obviously to everyone looking (full stop, hand signs, etc. - which takes a bit of time), but certainly not silently and sneakily. Of course I'm not saying we should let ourselves be hit by cars for the good cause. But for every situation where one wouldn't get hit, just keep with the rules as they should be, proceeding safe but speedily. Like Marty did. "Everyone slow down but still follow the rules" is safer, more productive to a good PEV-including traffic culture, and easier on everyone (cars included) than "ok, now nobody knows what exactly is going on here any longer".

Oh dear. I might have bad news for you... your wheel might be working exactly as expected. Weight + low tire pressure + cold weather + UK curse = I wonder if that can be it.

Don't care so much about the voltage. Maybe the CD is confusing/wrongly calibrated, or just shows a different voltage when charging (current going in) vs. when it's just powered by the wheel with no charger attached (current going out). There can be quite the variation. And these voltage numbers aren't very exact anyways. Battery needs time to settle, too. If you want a definite good voltage number, get a voltmeter and measure the charge port or (better) the battery-to-board plug, and the charger to see if the CD is right. It also can't hurt to open the wheel (right side panel) and just have a look if everything seems alright. Maybe check that you didn't accidentally get a 1300Wh wheel (650Wh per battery instead of 800Wh, there's stickers on the battery packs). The bigger mystery here is the range. That's just not ok. Again, what did Ian in his MSX range test video get? That should be an absolute plausible minimum because his ranges are always horrible I can charge to 101% (actual 84V) and after 5km it will be around 90%, too. Can happen very quick. These detail numbers are always not too accurate/reliable, but the end result counts. And 30-35 instead of 50 miles for 1600Wh is the end result, that's just hardly explicable. You can ask Ian, too, maybe he has more experience with this kind of issue?

Cool. So Wheellog is ruled out as possible issue

I believe that too. The charger stopping at around 82V and the rest of the voltage story seems mostly plausible. But the range, the range... that's just strange. (It rhymes) -- @stephen It's not a 100V MSX with 1240Wh, is it? At least then the range would be closer to normal and could maybe be explained by not-full-charging, cold weather, low tire pressure, whatnot. Have you ever opened the Wheel and looked inside? Is the battery the full size? Grasping at straws here -- By the way, do you know if the latest Wheellog uses the original Gotway formula (where 15% is where the beeps start etc) or maybe a different one? @palachzzz What is it?

Wheellog should always be accurate, it just displays what the wheel firmware tells it, so gets the info straight from the source. And it is in 1% increments. Your Wheellog is the latest/current version. 100% battery is not 84V. A Gotway considers the battery at 100% at 4.1125V per cell (x20 cells = 82.25V) so 82.25V is where the charger will stop (green light instead of red light). You have to keep the green light charger in to get to 84V, it will keep charging. By the way, the max voltage is 84V, not 84.2V. The BMS would stop you from overcharging anyways, but still. 67.2V for "67V" wheels is where there is a 0.2 decimal. Set your CD to stop at 84V or disable the auto stop (or just plug in the charger directly) and let the BMS/charger do the stopping and allow for the maximum charge. - But the 82V vs 84V does not explain your range loss, that would be about 10%, not 30-35 miles instead of 50 (you have the 1600Wh, right?) which is equivalent to about 1000Wh usable. Either you're very heavy/have low tire pressure/have the mysterious Ian's-low-range-phenomenon-in-the-UK (what did he get in his MSX range test?), or there might be something wrong indeed. Again, I'm not sure what could even be wrong to cause these symptoms. Maybe some disconnected battery blocks so your wheel is only 4p instead of 6p? But if there definitely is something wrong, the 2 year warranty is a legal requirement, not just an offer. So no problem there. But Ian's service is really his strength, so don't worry about that. How exactly did you measure the distance ridden? What the wheel says?

Calm down From the video, your charge doctor is configured to stop at 82V. So that's what it does. And therefore shows on the display. See the cd user manual website. You get into the configuration menu by holding down the button while you plug it in. Be careful, this way you can also fuck up its calibration by holding too long, so read before you try. Even if something is wrong, it is most likely the charger stopping too early, not a problem with the wheel. I wouldn't know what would cause your symptoms in the wheel. Even if a single cell was bad and limiting your voltage, you'd be at 79.8V max and you're already above that.

@travsformation Wow, you translated it yourself. Very nice, thank you!