meepmeepmayer

Someone needs to do a lift test with the Nikola. Charge to 100%, lift it up, and spin it up and see when the 5 beeps start. I'd be interested what the numbers are for the 84V and especially 100V.

Unser Problem

Nicht auf die vorgeschobenen Argumente reinfallen. Wenn es wirklich um Gefährdung ginge, dann müsste man Autos verbieten. Unsere <25kg, kniehohen Wheels gefährden niemand. Das "Argument" (das keines ist) kommt als Rechtfertigung der Entscheidung, es hat die Entscheidung nicht beeinflusst.

Ehm... I put some posts from the 16X thread into this one, but it didn't append at the end, but with the original post date. That might be a bit confusing... sorry.

Would somebody post a screenshot with the battery % and the voltage at below 50% battery, for both wheels. Then we can make an educated guess what the 0% voltage is on each wheel. I say guess because the voltage measurement is so inexact. @US69 So 18(X)L goes down to 3.0V and the 16X to 3.15V?

There's 2 Nikola versions. 84V or 100V. Both come in various battery sizes. 1845Wh or 1230Wh for the 100V, and 1600Wh or 2100Wh (or 650 or 800 or 1300Wh) for the 84V. Some of those may or may not be called "Plus". Maybe "Plus" means the black+carbon look, maybe it means the biggest battery of each 84V or 100V, maybe only the 100V, who knows.

The state of the EUC market summarized in one short statement

I'm not either. I just wanted to prevent a common misconception: Adding more batteries to a wheel does not make it stronger/faster/different. It rides exactly the same (you just run into its limits later). I have no idea. The Nikola 100V board has different parts (stronger capacitors) and isn't just the same board overvolted. But I have no idea if boards are specifically built for a voltage or can be used with any voltage that doesn't break it.

Not more power/torque. Just less voltage drop. More battery cells don't matter on EUCs unless you get into a regime where the voltage drop on the smaller battery would cause an overlean but the bigger battery would make it. But wheel behavior won't be influenced by the battery size, the firmware decides that. Maybe for scooters it's different. Maybe scooters suck as much juice out of the battery as they can. Then naturally bigger batteries would lead to a more powerful scooter. But it can't work like that on EUCs. You'd faceplant as soon as you reach the limit. So the firmware has to consider the voltage drop and maybe a max current or something and stop you. So unless the bigger battery wheel has a different firmware, it rides the same til the moment you overlean (or not).

I always considered the black, carbon Nikola the "Plus". So all Nikolas from now on will be "Plus". Or is it the 100V?

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That sounds like the charger is defective and doesn't put out the full voltage. You can always get a multimeter and measure the charger voltage directly. Be careful not to accidentally short something with the multimeter (mainly if you would measure something at the wheel).

Haben sie schon gerichtet. Der gleiche Mensch konnte es nicht reproduzieren.

Well then, no problem Carefully bend it back (slowly + no overbending) and it should be good as new. Mine wasn't as bad but I was surprised this simple repair worked 100%.

There's no big mystery to it. It's a purely mechanical problem. If you can bend it back and riding with that rim works, you fixed it. Otherwise, you need a new rim (motor really). Light shining through or not (though I have to admit, light sounds bad). So... good luck Post some photos if you like. But all we can do is guess if you can bend it back successfully and if the repair would/will hold.

Several people (me included) managed to fix such a bend with a bench vice. Assuming the bend is outwards (so clamping it bends it back). If it's bent inward, you need to get creative (such as putting only the bent wall into the vice, not the entire rim). Just be very careful not to overbend it or you might get some small cracks (not bad by themselves, but obviously they don't make the rim more stable). And use a piece of cloth, otherwise the vice will scratch/imprint into the soft aluminium rim. Here's two threads about this topic. The video posted down in the first one also has an different solution if I remember it correctly.

How much I wish that existed right now!

I wonder what the mechanism behind the oscillation is. The wheel seems to have delayed balancing (possibly aggravated by the softer ride modes with their own delay) in these fringe situations*, which leads to a self-amplifying oscillation instead of to a stable, level equillibrium = self-balancing. I wonder how Gotway fixed this/never had this (one firmware bug aside) and Kingsong will fix it. Do they know the mechanism that is causing this? Is it fixed by some heuristic attempts, or can they guarantee the problem can't happen again because the exact reason is known? (* Situations: the accelerate-brake maneuver for the 16X, a bump for the ms3 bug, and also a bump/extra demand on the batteries on the V8) edit: maybe it's this: Wikipedia PID controller Or vice versa. Maybe the quick/strong change in lean is what causes the oscillation to start. Wikipedia lead-lag compensator

Absolutely fantastic! @Alien Rides @who_the The stick method is nice, but I'm really surprised nobody seems to be using the @LanghamP method: use a second ridable and ride along the new guy who holds on to you! With or without stick.

Not my videos. New rider unboxing and learning to ride on his 18XL. He's doing it a bit unusually (obviously going by the Inmotion Learning to Ride video) but gets better nicely and comes to all the right conclusions. He might have more videos coming up soon. Speedy Feet 18XL 1000km update. Nice tour through the English countryside. This guy made another EUC video. He's quite convinced of them. Nothing too much new here, but he emphasizes the convenience factor of EUCs when not riding.

That's just a change in the PWM frequency (mosfet control frequency). I don't believe that has much potential to cause problems. But I'm always ready to be pleasantly surprised by our beloved manufacturers

I want to officially thank @Kuji Rolls for risking life and limb to test these things Looks like the same "oscillation on high stress" problem that the V8 sometimes has. Some kind of overcorrecting going wrong near the limits. Other than that: This and the obvious app problems this thread consists of ever since people got their wheels just shows KS and Gotway are equally bad in their own ways.

Marty if you're ever wondering why I'm so picky about getting a new wheel... I'm supposed to pay 2k and upwards for this kind of **** or whatever disaster the Kingsong app/firmware is?!

Battery size has no influence on speed. But on range. Sweet, sweet range!