Boris Lämpel

I rode without a working BMS communication for around 1 year. I really cannot advice You replacing the ninebot BMS as long as it tells the firmware everything is ok. You can install the firmware "no BMS" (somewhat like that ist was called) by MRN67. I had it in my ninebot, after the communication between BMS and mainboard did not work anymore. As soon the firmware detects any BMS issue it will make a complete tiltback, so that You can´t ride anymore. With the firmware You can ride again. But with every harder acceleration (and therefore voltage drop) You will get limited because the wheel thinks the battery is empty. Because of the small battery this even happens at full charge. That´s really anoying. I can´t remember anymore: Do you have 2 BMS wire connections (for both batteries)? Then maybe You can flash it to the Z6 firmware (where the wheel has only 1 battery). But with the missing BMS connection You won´t have joy to ride anymore...

In Germany many people (even from countries around) use kleinanzeigen.de From France I know leboncoin.fr

https://www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/gotway-begode-msp-ht-c38-defekt/2743398536-242-4008? Selling my broken MSP HT. 600€ Shipping within the EU no problem.

I still don't get why it should not fit.

It may be a bit late, but I have the same problem again. Can You please tell me why not? I am thinking of the second generation hollow bore motor. the pedal hanger width (which is the most important) is the same, only the thickness of the motor with attached pedal hangers could vary.

I cannot even set the safety margin. But when the tiltback comes after the beeps I think there is enough safety. But actually I would prefer the tiltback before the beeps...

I successfully installed the custom firmware via EUCWorld on my RS C38. When I make a freespin test the light strobes, so I consider it working. However the tiltback (safety margin grey, not changeable) does not kick in, even though it is enabled. I did not try to ride beyond the beeps. But there is no tiltback up to the last beeps. Any suggestions?

In my case it happened when I forced the wheel into really hard acceleration from a standstill. But nothing melted. The cables are like 8 years old and experienced a lot of movement, especially with an axle replacement and lots of motor removing, but also on my offroad trips. The short circuit was because of broken insulation. The connection was closed through the metal of the axle. After further examination I was really surprised to find out that there were no traces of melted material. Only the insulation and some cores of the cable were broken. Thanks a lot @mrelwood for Your shared experience. I already could organise the right cable, now I need patience until it arrives...

After changing the motherboard on my Gotway MSP I noticed the reason for its breakdown: melted phase wires caused a short circuit. So I need to replace the phase wires coming from the motor through the axle to the motherboard. Did anyone of You have the same problem? I need to know which cable to take: I want to have the maximum thickness that fits the axle combined with good (but thin and heat resistant) insulation and a material that has a low resistance. Any suggestions?

Well, sadly Locktite is of no use. At least not for me. I fastened it with locktite as hard as I could. It became loose again and again. So I will probably weld some kind of axle-nut-protector...

Hey fellow riders! Does anyone know whether Begode's Motors and pedal hangers are interchangeable between hollow bore and axle motor models? I am still looking for a solution to the problem with my axle nut always getting loose. I thought of maybe putting an RS - motor inside my MSP (only if I can get a cheap one).

A real Audi fan👍!

You are all the time discussing about the feeling of different voltages. But let's talk about the real advantages. If we would take a battery with a fix amount of cells. Would there be any difference of the capacity or safety? With lower voltage we have more cells in parallel. Does it mean it is safer because of less voltage sag?

Well, I got hands on some of these new Clarkpads, but I did not try them. Actually I do not want to: Especially for offroad riding You need perfect fitting pads, in my opinion You should consider pads consisting of more compartments. They are really soft, even for offroad use I would like it. But instead of other pads as Grizzla, Torque, Nylonove... pads the softness does not come from the material, only from the structure. So I really doubt their longevity. You should not lay your wheel on the side or use it as crash protection. Also, and that is my highest concern, the build quality is, compared to the prize, not acceptable. For printing they used thicker layers than any other of the competition. So they feel really cheap and selfmade.

My condolences for being caught in comitting a serious crime. I am afraid there does not exist an identification number. They need it to see the exact model with its specs. So for "faking" / inventing a serial number to show the police one has a viable insurance you could use the motor code (written on the side of the motor) or the bluetooth adress. But in Your case it would probably be without use...