Jhorid Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Hello, I got my new Gotway Msuper3 1600WH 84V yesterday. It was at ~25% charge (according to WheelLog) out of the box. I charged it up to ~50% before doing a very short test ride, 100-200m, and it worked fine. I continued charging it and went to bed. This morning all 5 lights were blinking twice, one short, one long, continuously. I'm not able to power it off using the power button. The wheel does not run. I let it stay like this and went to work. When I came back, it's still blinking the same pattern. I found a youtube video on how to disconnect the battery (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF2ygW7L-jY), but when I reconnect the cables again the same pattern starts again. The wheel does not work, there's no other lights, nothing happens when I press or press and hold the power button, and there's no sounds from the unit. I can't find it as a Bluetooth unit anymore. I made a video showing the lights blinking: https://youtu.be/zdh_U7nHLzA Any suggestions guys? /Jhorid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Onymous Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 I am thinking it is a battery problem due to the blinking lights. If you can get to the battery again, do an amp test and a volt test with your voltmeter. It may be the charger too, sometimes the LEDs blinking pattern gives a code for troubleshooting. It does for Ninebot batteries which have the LEDs on the battery. Contact your seller. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 21 minutes ago, Stan Onymous said: ... If you can get to the battery again, do an amp test and ... @Jhorid- But please do not test how much amps the battery can deliver! Should be obvious that one does not short such a battery pack with an amp meter, but since that could be very dangerous this just as clarification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhorid Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Thanks both for your suggestion. I do not have a volt meter, but I can probably buy one. There are so many wires coming out of the battery, though. How would I know which one to measure? /Jhorid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Onymous Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 As for the Amps, if the advice is dont do it, dont do it. My theory comes from my solar array experience at low amps, but capable of high output. the voltmeter will blow its fuse above 10 or 20 amps depending on your voltmeter. So if the voltmeter doesnt blow during an amp test, the battery may be faulty. The fuse is available at any auto parts store. On the charging connector on the battery there should be two pins. One will be negative and the other will be positive. If you get a negative power reading, reverse the testers. This will give you voltage. Hope that passes the safety test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 3 hours ago, Jhorid said: Hello, I got my new Gotway Msuper3 1600WH 84V yesterday. It was at ~25% charge (according to WheelLog) out of the box. I charged it up to ~50% before doing a very short test ride, 100-200m, and it worked fine. I continued charging it and went to bed. This morning all 5 lights were blinking twice, one short, one long, continuously. I'm not able to power it off using the power button. The wheel does not run. I let it stay like this and went to work. When I came back, it's still blinking the same pattern. I found a youtube video on how to disconnect the battery (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IF2ygW7L-jY), but when I reconnect the cables again the same pattern starts again. The wheel does not work, there's no other lights, nothing happens when I press or press and hold the power button, and there's no sounds from the unit. I can't find it as a Bluetooth unit anymore. I made a video showing the lights blinking: https://youtu.be/zdh_U7nHLzA Any suggestions guys? /Jhorid This is very interesting. I did not know that Gotway provided diagnostic information via the LEDs. I would try and contact Gotway directly to ask what that code means. Write a Forum Message to @Jane Mo and @Linnea Lin Gotway and they should receive the e-mail with your question. BTW, when you went to bed did you leave the MSuper turned on while you were charging it? Or was it off, but when you turned it on the flashing code started? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhorid Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 >BTW, when you went to bed did you leave the MSuper turned on while you were charging it? Or was it off, but when you turned it on the flashing code started? It was turned off but hooked up to the charger when I went to bed. It was already blinking like this before I tried to turn it on this morning. While I was charging it from 25% to 50% before my quick test ride, I turned it on to check the charge levels on WheelLog now and then. I could then hear the wheel spinning from the bedroom while I was playing around with the app, so I'm quite sure I didn't leave it on by accident. Thanks for your advice, /Jhorid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 11 minutes ago, Jhorid said: >BTW, when you went to bed did you leave the MSuper turned on while you were charging it? Or was it off, but when you turned it on the flashing code started? It was turned off but hooked up to the charger when I went to bed. It was already blinking like this before I tried to turn it on this morning. While I was charging it from 25% to 50% before my quick test ride, I turned it on to check the charge levels on WheelLog now and then. I could then hear the wheel spinning from the bedroom while I was playing around with the app, so I'm quite sure I didn't leave it on by accident. Thanks for your advice, /Jhorid Normally the wheel is off (no lights, etc) when it's being charged. The fact that the lights were on and flashing by themselves leads me to think that there's a battery fault that the control board detected. Good luck, and please keep us informed on what you learn later as to the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stan Onymous Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 Just out of curiosity, does the ACM have its own app for unlocking and security functions? You may need to use that to unlock your wheel. Or your wheel may be in a demo mode that requires a password to reset. I shouldve thought of these first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 10 minutes ago, Stan Onymous said: Just out of curiosity, does the ACM have its own app for unlocking and security functions? You may need to use that to unlock your wheel. Or your wheel may be in a demo mode that requires a password to reset. I shouldve thought of these first. nope! all newer Gotways use the same app! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhorid Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 In any case the wheel does not show up as a bluetooth unit anymore, and if I try USB WheelLog reports "Direct connection failed. Searching for Wheel..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zlymex Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 It seems to me that one of the step-down DC-DC converter failed which is common among new generation of GW EUCs. The rear LED of GW Msuper V3/V3s+ normally - indicates the battery level when stand still, - acting as a warning/rear light and blinks when riding, - acts as a brake light and all lighted up when braking, - and acts as turns light when riding the EUC and turning left or right. It doesn't matter to turn the EUC off or remains turned on while charging. If it is a firmware bug then you may need to complete turn the input voltage off to reset(by disconnect the battery plug and then press or press and hold the power button until all LEDs are out, to discharge the input capacitors). Those step-down DC-DCs are not firmware controlled IMO(meaning they are always on once the power is up), and thus reset the power probably won't change anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esaj Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 On 8/2/2017 at 7:06 PM, Stan Onymous said: As for the Amps, if the advice is dont do it, dont do it. My theory comes from my solar array experience at low amps, but capable of high output. the voltmeter will blow its fuse above 10 or 20 amps depending on your voltmeter. So if the voltmeter doesnt blow during an amp test, the battery may be faulty. The fuse is available at any auto parts store. I wouldn't suggest to try this. Depending on the "speed" of the fuse (how fast it blows), a very significant current can still run through before the fuse blows (slow blow/time delay fuses can "allow" very high currents to pass without blowing for a short while). In my case, when I accidentally short-circuited a wheel battery over a multimeter (I thought I had the probes in the voltage-measurement jacks and didn't check, they were set for current measurement, oops), the full metal probe tip exploded with lots of sparks, the connector was destroyed and the fuse didn't even have time to burn before the tip was gone and the circuit was broken (or maybe the BMS cut the current, I don't know, either way, that brief transient current was enough to melt metal in an instant). To really test this, I think you'd need a proper DC load of high enough voltage & power dissipation or at least use a suitable power resistor / current sink in series with the meter to prevent too high current from destroying things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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