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H3 Mohoo unicycle


vag72

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This is my 1st wheel and I must say I have been impressed.The shell is pretty scratched up due to my learning only on this wheel, but it has held up fine and not missed a beat.I carry an extra battery with me in my back pocket during long rides which is nice to have so you never get stranded.The ride is decent for me @ 200lbs. and 6 ft. tall.I have the bluetooth version which comes with a little remote to turn on/off the lights and beep a horn sound.I would give it 4.5 out of 5.

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I have a pretty detailed review posted of the Huanxi H1 self balancing electric unicycle (link here). It's ElectricUnicycleReviews.com recommended entry-level micro unicycle, and is our second most popular model in the store.

I like the shape, and they use brand-name Japanese batteries. I would love anyone to suggest similar low-priced units from other companies, so that I can review those as well and have a base for comparison!

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  • 2 months later...

I received it early in September.

The overall built quality is intermediate, the light is more to make you noticeable on the road then to really light-up the dark, USB port works just fine, horn is loud, bluetooth works good. Do not forget to turn off option to use it as phone speaker, when connect to your phone. I was quite surprised when my friend started to talk to me loudly from the wheel speaker, same as people around. ;)  Pedals design with cutted corners is good to do turns. It does not start beep on 12 km/h, just rises up pedals and at 16-17 rm/h start to inform you by the voice command: "overspeed" . 

Cons:

Tyre very much covered by the shell, so the wheel is intended to be used on the almost flat surfaces.

No side pads and very smooth shell cover surface so it is very difficult to jump on even small borders or steps. You just can't hold the wheel with your legs same as wheel in standard design, with rubberized side pads. 

Shell surface is very shine and scratcheable. But you can buy a special protective cover.

Quite low pedal height.

Pedals surface more slippery in comparison with my other wheels.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I just got one of these from Banggood for my son's birthday with blueetooth speaker and LED.  It was around $250 shipped after coupon, but only came with the 132wh battery rather than 172wh.  Came in a plain cardboard box, with training wheels, charger, strap and poorly written instructions.

http://www.banggood.com/H1-Electric-Unicycle-Solo-wheel-With-Bluetooth-Speaker-LED-Light-p-962628.html

Charging it now.  Looks cool anyway.  We'll see how my son likes it on the weekend.  Hopefully he can figure it out.  Hope it is a good first unit, then maybe we can move up to something else.

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  • 2 months later...

I just ordered an H3 last night.  Have to ship it to Washington State because Banggood will not ship it to California.  Is this a fallout from the hooverboard fires?

QUESTION: worth buying the protective pads for front and back of wheel?  This is my first Unicycle but am a good electric bike rider.

QUESTION: anyone know where you can get a "Doctor electric voltage monitor" for this uni t? (62.7 vDC)  Saw one at my flying field but no idea where they got it or whether they made it from a conventions USB Doctor voltage monitor.  Really want to know the Amp-hours we put into system for each charge cycle.

I have made up battery packs for my electric cycle and will use 18650 16Serial units for this machine also.  Anyone have a schematic diagram which shows the voltage pin out for the Deans connector (just 3S????) and for the XT-60 connector (the 16S)?  Would appreciate any help along these lines.  I will share my battery build video when I get the schematic.  Make up all my quad copter batteries the same way. Piece of cake once you know what to avoid.

    tjcooper

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18 minutes ago, tjcooper said:

...

QUESTION: worth buying the protective pads for front and back of wheel?  This is my first Unicycle but am a good electric bike rider.

I dont know the "protective pads for front and back", but be prepared to have your EUC beaten up quite hard in the beginning. Normally "foamy" stripes are delivered with EUCs to protect it a bit. (Or can be ordered seperatly quite cheap and are widely used)

Knowing how to ride a bike wont help (too much) - learning to ride an EUC is about comparable to learn riding a bike the first time... Just classic unicycle riders have a big advantage and are known to jump on EUCs and ride quite immedeately.

But around here is an "almost endless amount" of discussions, tipps & tricks, learning experience reports, etc...

18 minutes ago, tjcooper said:

QUESTION: anyone know where you can get a "Doctor electric voltage monitor" for this uni t? (62.7 vDC)  Saw one at my flying field but no idea where they got it or whether they made it from a conventions USB Doctor voltage monitor.  Really want to know the Amp-hours we put into system for each charge cycle.

18 minutes ago, tjcooper said:

I have made up battery packs for my electric cycle and will use 18650 16Serial units for this machine also.  Anyone have a schematic diagram which shows the voltage pin out for the Deans connector (just 3S????) and for the XT-60 connector (the 16S)?  Would appreciate any help along these lines.  I will share my battery build video when I get the schematic.  Make up all my quad copter batteries the same way. Piece of cake once you know what to avoid.

    tjcooper

Be sure to use a good and adequadte BMS for your battery pack - you do not want "unexpected shutdowns" as they lead to nasty faceplants! If you have enough free space in your EUC i would recommend you a 16s2p pack over just 16s.( makes it harder to overlean..)

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  • 2 weeks later...

sorry for being so new to field.  What is "BMS" unit?  Is this a PTC using to control a battery pack's amperage and charging level?   I will make just a 16s1p unit....but I get the higher capacity 18650 unit (like at 3000maH).

   tjcooper

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46 minutes ago, tjcooper said:

sorry for being so new to field.  What is "BMS" unit?  Is this a PTC using to control a battery pack's amperage and charging level?   I will make just a 16s1p unit....but I get the higher capacity 18650 unit (like at 3000maH).

   tjcooper

I have absolutely no idea what a PTC is, but BMS's are discussed a lot on this site. BMS is Battery Management System, these are built into the battery pack and their prime function (on EUC's) is to keep all the cells in a lithium battery balanced. Unfortunately most also have functions, as you have said above, to control power and charging. Charge protection is OK but over- current and under voltage protection is dangerous on EUC's and needs to be disabled if fitted to a BMS or, as @Chriull says above it can cut power unexpectedly and faceplant you.

BTW 16s1p using 3000mAh cells is 177Wh which is at the bottom end for power and range. That was why 16s2p was being suggested.

Deans plugs have the +ve and -negative symbols molded into them. XT-60s do as well but not so obviously, positive is the flat bottomed side of the connector. What are you looking for as a schematic? 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I need to know what voltage appears on each plug.  If I had to guess, they put 3S on the deans plug and 16S on the XT-60....and hopefully share the same ground.

PTC is used in LiPoly batteries.  I believe it stands for Power, Temperature Control.  It limits the charging of a cell to max rate for cell, It limits max dischange and opens if exceeded.  If temperature goes too high it also opens the connection.   They add about 5 cents to cost of 18650 cell.

   tjcooper

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21 hours ago, tjcooper said:

I need to know what voltage appears on each plug.  If I had to guess, they put 3S on the deans plug and 16S on the XT-60....and hopefully share the same ground.

PTC is used in LiPoly batteries.  I believe it stands for Power, Temperature Control.  It limits the charging of a cell to max rate for cell, It limits max dischange and opens if exceeded.  If temperature goes too high it also opens the connection.   They add about 5 cents to cost of 18650 cell.

   tjcooper

18650's are LiIon, not LiPoly which are soft shelled pouch batteries, I've never seen such a device on a LiPoly, except as part of (say) a laptop battery, I am aware of 18650 cells with protection circuits but never come across them being called PTC's. What I do know is they should absolutely never, ever, be used on an EUC, they would give you 16 times as many chances of faceplanting.

I cannot fathom your reasoning for 3S being connected to the Deans plug, If anything needs lower voltages regulators are used; tapping partial battery packs would cause cell imbalance that might exceed the BMS ability to balance out and could overdischarge some cells unless only very low current is required.

The standard configuration is for the XT-60 to be the discharge plug and the Deans to be the charge plug, they are, therefore, both connected to all 16 cells.  It is the charge and discharge protection circuits on the BMS that necessitate that there are seperate charge and discharge connectors. The BMS should have obvious designations on the board if these plugs are not already fitted, something like P+, P- and C+, C-.

BTW, we have talked 16 cells repeatedly above, but not all EUC's use 16, some are 15 cells, too many cells may damage or prevent the control board working

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@tjcooper, it's just occurred to me that you need to be looking at this thread: 

The actual post I have linked to above has a picture (thank you @Tomek) of the bare BMS with 18650 cells ready to be connected together.

If you have been building electric bike batteries out of 18650's and tapping partial packs for lower voltages, yet have not come across the need for a BMS, I am really puzzled how you have been keeping the cells balanced? If you have been ignoring the need to balance you have been really lucky if you haven't wrecked the packs within a few months or had them catch fire during charging.

I guess that you used the cells that include the protection circuitry in them, that should prevent the individual cells overcharging or over discharging, As I said above, not a safe option on a self balancing vehicle as the safety of the rider, not the battery must be the primary consideration.

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On 3/31/2016 at 7:57 AM, Keith said:

 

Um the 170w pack I recently got from bang good has protected low amp individual cells in it now. Absolute rubbish. They are not the 16s packs anymore but are 29e packs even though if you ask them they say no no 16s pack same as photo which they are not!

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8 minutes ago, Dr Bob said:

Um the 170w pack I recently got from bang good has protected low amp individual cells in it now. Absolute rubbish. They are not the 16s packs anymore but are 29e packs even though if you ask them they say no no 16s pack same as photo which they are not!

The 29E batteries are mentioned in this blog on how to build your own battery pack:

http://www.ebikeschool.com/how-to-build-a-diy-electric-bicycle-lithium-battery-from-18650-cells/

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2 minutes ago, SlowMo said:

The 29E batteries are mentioned in this blog on how to build your own battery pack:

http://www.ebikeschool.com/how-to-build-a-diy-electric-bicycle-lithium-battery-from-18650-cells/

real testing today said max peak amps for all the cells in my pack were in the 8.5 amps ballpark more than what they say at the thread, so they must of made it with good one's lol. still not happy about this battery pack :(

Interesting read though thank you

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Keith,

sorry I have missed your posts on my responses.   I use the term LiPoly to refer to all the Lithium type batteries on the market.  LiIon was Sony's name (I worked for them when I was first learning to fly LiPo in our RC airplanes) and many people considered the "silver sausages" as the proper name for LiIon.  See this battery university post for a complete breakdown of all the Lithium batteries.  They also use the term LiPoly to cover the entire lithium field.  Although the latest nanoparticle Lithium batteries are beginning to confuse the user community into thinking they use a different chemistry.  The Poly is for polymer and almost all Lithium batteries have some form of polymer in their manufacture except for the Lithium Primary cells (non-rechargeable).

You will also find a good description (and reference) to the PTC circuits used in the LiPoly batteries if the manufacturer decides to spend the extra money to put them in the cells.  The soft-sided LiPoly do not have PTC intrinsic to the cell and has to be added to the circuit boards which connect all the packets.

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/the_li_polymer_battery_substance_or_hype

    tjcooper

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  • 4 months later...

I picked up the H2 version (132WH) of this wheel, two weeks ago as my first wheel.

Overall, i'm pretty happy with it.  I've been able to ride for distances of 6 miles and still have about a %30 charge.  I weigh 175 pounds and was riding flat sidewalks.

It does have a tilt back system when you start to go too fast or if the motor starts to get too hot.  It also has a beeping alarm. I think it has a top speed of about 8-9 mph.

I added some EVA foam to the sides to help with comfort, and put grip tape on the pedals.

It's also been very durable.  It's taken a few tumbles and the plastic has not broken not are the scratches very deep.

So, It's served it's purpose.  I've learned to ride an EUC and will be looking to buy a more powerful wheel soon.

 

Huanxi H2 -IMG_20160901_58390.jpg

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