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Car charger for Ninebot One?


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I've got this and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Outlets-Laptop-Tablet-Smartphone/dp/B018E1MC5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467214007&sr=8-2&keywords=350+watt+inverter

Just don't leave it plugged in and forget it, or you'll end up with a dead battery.  I use it while driving to a destination, or while driving home after a ride.  I think with the car off, it might drain your battery quickly, as would a dedicated 12v charger.

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It converts 12v to 110v, like any other wall outlet.  They also make EU versions of this so your plugs will work.

This one allows all plugs, but there are EU Specific ones that might be cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/c350d-Inverter-Converts-Universal-Charging/dp/B01BB5HMM6/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1467216098&sr=8-3-fkmr3&keywords=350+watt+inverter+EU

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Be sure to get enough Watts.  I tried a 75 watt version, and it worked SOME of the time.  300-350 Watt has more than enough power to work.

This one is Universal, so you can plug in all sorts of plugs.  It covers US, EU, and other countries.  You plug in where I've circled.

Inverter.jpg

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If your euc charger is 67V/2A then it needs at least 134W. 134W from car's 12V is 11.2A (plus all the losses of devices). Many cars has 10A fuse for cicarette outlet but it can be more or less. It is a big current from cicarette lighter outlet!

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I place mine in the trunk space of my Mini Cooper (There's an extra 12v outlet).  The NineBot charger is rated 61v 1.9amps 120 watts and I have had no issues so far with the 350 Watt Inverter.  Works just like the wall outlet.  The 12v plug is slightly warm after a 2+ hour drive, but not hot.

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Word of warning using 230v inverters.

If you plug in electronics in you car always use a "true sine wave" inverter!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DQA4TD4?psc=1

All electronics are not made to cope with "modified sine wave" output from cheap inverters so it destroys the electronics in the charger and can destroy the batteries that you are trying to charge. The batteries get charged but you can not be sure that the output from your charger is correct.

 

Regular cheap modified sine wave inverters are made for lights, fans, heaters etc.

True sine wave inverters are made for electronics.

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I believe NineBot cleared that up and stated that either can safely be used on their chargers.  Here is the post I saw about it:

This is from Segway's FAQ page:

Can I charge my Segway HT from my car or boat?

Yes, a Segway HT can be charged while driving in your car or boat by using a suitable DC-to-AC power inverter. Each Segway HT typically consumes approximately 140 Watts of power while charging. However, due to charger startup requirements, we recommend that inverters have power capacity of at least 350 Watts for each Segway HT being charged. Power inverters that produce either square or sinusoid waveform output are suitable for charging the Segway HT.

http://segway.com/faqs/faq/answer=10...al%20Questions

 

EDIT:  Not actually referring to the NineBot, so not positive if this applies.

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Well a Segway charger for that model is about a 1000 dollars, I certainly hope it can handle all types of waveforms.

 

A EU charger is cheap and from what I've seen, chargers for EU are often light and not smacked to the brim with components. 

But I might also be wrong, the Ninebot charger might be fully capable of handling square waves. But what type of square wave do you have from your inverter? 

Some are extremely poor quality.

Have a look at that waveform example in a oscilloscope:

https://www.altestore.com/blog/2015/10/pure-sine-wave-vs-modified-sine-wave-whats-the-difference/

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Yeah, I'm not sure, I don't have an oscilloscope handy.  I'll use mine till I see trouble, but as of now, it's been working ok for me.  If my charger dies, they are about $40 to replace.

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Yeah it might do well.

But the bad thing is that the charger might work but the batteries get killed after long use. 

If the charger is not properly designed the output of the charger will not be what you expect and as a result shortening the life of you batteries.

This has happened to me using laptop charges with modified sine wave converters.

Sorry, I don't want to cause you any unnecessary worries, the ninebot charger is from a purely subjective point of view better designed than most chargers. (Weight and feel of the charger)

So you're probably fine.

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You can use a diy solution. Aliexpress or ebay have dc-dc converters.

You can buy the 400w or 600w versions. Select 63v max and 2amps max and you have it. You will need lemo plug as well.

There is a post somewhere in this forum about that.

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You can use something like those two converters bellow - both can be set to specific voltage and current:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-Boost-Converter-DC-8-40V-to-12-60V-10A-160W-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-DC/32624351102.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.111.5hhKLi (only rated to 60V though it will produce more than that - would be more suitable for 14S setups like Solowheels)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Efficiency-95-DC-DC-600W-IN-12-60V-OUT-12-80V-Boost-Converter-Step-Up/32374850067.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.95.5hhKLi

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  • 1 month later...
8 minutes ago, kenlleny said:

Eseekgo car charger will is a good choice for you, I used it perfectly support almost all device, like mobile phone, notebook, ipad, etc. Just have a try.

And does it put out enough voltage (>60V for Ninebot, 67.2V-84V for other wheels)? ;) 

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36 minutes ago, kenlleny said:

Dual USB ports: Input: DC12V / 24V; Output DC5V / 4.8V. The maximum support 2.4V single port. You can have a try.

Output 5V? We Need at least 60 Volt(most wheels even more) :-)

The question of @esaj was ironic, because he knows that this "normal car chargers" are way to low for our wheels....

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On 7.7.2016 at 11:33 AM, HEC said:

You can use something like those two converters bellow - both can be set to specific voltage and current:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-Boost-Converter-DC-8-40V-to-12-60V-10A-160W-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-DC/32624351102.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.111.5hhKLi (only rated to 60V though it will produce more than that - would be more suitable for 14S setups like Solowheels)

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-Efficiency-95-DC-DC-600W-IN-12-60V-OUT-12-80V-Boost-Converter-Step-Up/32374850067.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.95.5hhKLi

Should be the easiest solution, if one goes DIY... With the changeable current and voltage limitation it's a "perfect" Li Ion charger.

Like it was used here for recharging with other battery packs:

Just as @esaj mentioned in this thread, with 2A at 63V at the output side it will drain at least 63V/12V*2A=10.5A from the car battery...

... and one has no automatic shut-off as with a normal charger, so one should use a volt/amperemeter as shown in this thread to know the status of charging.

So about one hour charging with this about 120W costs the car battery ~10Ah. Charging a whole 320Wh ninebot one e+ pack costs ~26Ah.

This numbers are without any losses. So with a ~75% efficiency of the converter this number rise to ~13Ah and 35Ah.

I don't have any idea how the battery losses are while charging - i.e. how much more the car battery has to provide...

 

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17 minutes ago, Chriull said:

Should be the easiest solution, if one goes DIY... With the changeable current and voltage limitation it's a "perfect" Li Ion charger.

Since then I've found better one though more expensive but fully enclosed and with higher voltage ranges: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-Boost-Converter-10-35V-12v-24v-to-65-97V-100W-Adjustable-CC-CV-Power-Supply/32680001588.html

It's "only" 100W so at 67.2V it's just below 1.5A and with 92% efficiency it would pull about 9A max from 12V power source or battery. Considering that most "12V" car batteries or generators (while engine is running) provide more then 12V (more likely towards up to 14V) it will pull even less. It's very small and light so easy to carry around and to be used for car or solar panel charging. I'm ordering two more to have one for each output voltage I need though setting trimmers are easily accessible from outside without need to remove the cover.

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On 30/8/2016 at 4:06 PM, HEC said:

Since then I've found better one though more expensive but fully enclosed and with higher voltage ranges: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DC-Boost-Converter-10-35V-12v-24v-to-65-97V-100W-Adjustable-CC-CV-Power-Supply/32680001588.html

It's "only" 100W so at 67.2V it's just below 1.5A and with 92% efficiency it would pull about 9A max from 12V power source or battery. Considering that most "12V" car batteries or generators (while engine is running) provide more then 12V (more likely towards up to 14V) it will pull even less. It's very small and light so easy to carry around and to be used for car or solar panel charging. I'm ordering two more to have one for each output voltage I need though setting trimmers are easily accessible from outside without need to remove the cover.

This converter is 65v out min, which is a bit high for ninebot one.

Ninebot One requires 63v max ( and when discharged, it will need go lower than 60v to limit the current).

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I have one of these, it does have CC/CV (Constant current / constant voltage) -adjust, but never tried charging anything with it:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Lowest-Price-DC-DC-600W-DC-IN-10-60V-OUT-12-80V-Boost-Converter-Step-up/1598356893.html

 

Boost module 600W high power, wide voltage input: the 10V ~~ 60V, Output adjustable 12V ~~ 80V wide voltage; adjustable output current; ultra-low dropout.

Detailed parameters:

Input voltage: 10V-60V

Input Current: Maximum input current 15A

Output voltage: 12V-80V continuously adjustable

Output current: maximum output current of 10A (adjustable)

Output power: effective power P = input voltage V * 10A

Conversion efficiency: up to 95% (input voltage and current; conversion efficiency of the output voltage, current impact)

Short-circuit protection: fuse

 

Of course you probably need some encasing for it. On some sellers details it was also mentioned that you shouldn't use it above 400W without additional cooling (ie. fan on the heatsink or such). Also worth noting that without some load (multimeter alone isn't enough), the output voltage can raise higher than 80V, I was screwing it up and wasn't looking at the meter display all the time, when I glanced there, it was showing something like 95V and the output caps are rated for 100V max... :D

 

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