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Rotator last won the day on August 5 2015

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About Rotator

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    Spain (La Coruna)
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  1. This is my new Charge Doctor: To be controlled from my smartphone, I have this setup: Here you can see the APP funcionality, which is: 1.- Display data and charge chart. 2.- Set charge speed (charger's power delivered). 3.- Set cutoff points to stop the charge process. You have the main screen below. You can see voltage, current, cutoff points for the charging process, energy, capacity and estimated percent level. There are a button to start & stop the process and its time. The process will be interrupted automatically if the cufoff thresholds are achieved. There are another tab with DATA chart and cumulative values for all charges done: The SETUP tab will allow to set device number (for several devices to charge with this method), number of cells (to set maximum and mínimum values for the cutoffs) and the speed of the charge, selecting a 100W charger, a 300W charger or both of them for 400W. Remote power buttons are for debug purposes at this time, as well as the LOGS tab. Since the conectivity is WIFI and mobile phone 4G, you can start and stop the charging process anywhere, which it can not be done through a bluetooth connection. At the beginning I had done a charger stop circuit with a mosfet (because the meter has a configuration menu with parameters to do that), but now is not needed. That's all... Merry christmas everybody!
  2. Very good job, congratulations! And very professional look!
  3. I have this charge controller ready and tested. Now it works over wifi. I have and app in my smart phone to start, stop, control and monitor all the parameters. Moreover, I can adjust the current and voltage in my app to trigger an automatic cutoff when the thereshold is achieved. All this can be made online anywhere. So the wheel is all the time connected to this charge controller, and the charger is switched on and off through a wifi mains socket device. Final price was, usd 15 for the charge meter, about usd 4 for an esp8266 (arduino Esp01s), usd 6 for a sonoff wifi socket, and about usd 6 for blynk credits (for the mobile app). I will post pictures soon. Now, while I am at work, I can decide where I'll ride when I arrive at home, and charge at the required level my KS16S several hours before arriving (currently I am working in select the charge power from the app as well: 100, 300 or 400w).
  4. Finally I have got this coulometer working like a charge Doctor. I have added a small circuit to stop the output when voltage goes up or when the current goes down. The total price is around usd 15. You will need the coulometer itself, a npn transistor, a zener diode, a N channel mosfet and a pair of resistors. Easy to build. Currently, I am testing the device charging my KS16S. The initial tests were fine. I am going to test it at my electric bicycle (10s 36v). This must work between 10v and 200v (the selected mosfet must support the upper limit) When the threshold parameters are reached, the coulometer activates a signal in a pin. (3.3v). This signal is connected to a NPN base transistor ground biassed, so its collector goes ground when signal is activated. This collector stops a positive biassed N Channel mosfet gate with its source connected to the negative output an its drain connected to the load. If there is any interest, I can put the circuit diagram and some pictures. I am thinking in to connect the serial interface of this coulometer to a ESP8266 to send the charging status parameters to a online web, so you can see the charging process in any place and at any time. Moreover, since my charger is connected to a Sonoff socket (IOT) the process it could be interrupted at any time or when a online configured parameters would be reached. This could be more functional than a bluetooth interface. Anyway, this is another option, and a real alternative to a charge doctor v2.
  5. Yesterday I was riding slow (may be 10 km/h) under hard rain, with about 50% battery. Suddenly I can hear a warning spoken message from the ks16s (I can't understand the message). I stoped and verified the battery level at the side leds. All on (100%) which was impossible. Then the level was going down to the 50% in a few minutes. Wheel is now good and charges until 100% with no problem. Any idea about which message could be? waterproof problem?
  6. Hello. Recently, I was looking for a CD like device on aliexpress and I have found this about usd 12: https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32990510887.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.b1e463c0bSte1Q Only needs a relay or Mosfet to cut power. Moreover, it has a TTL-serial interface as well, easy to bridge over bluetooth. It might be a winner way...
  7. A friend of mine, have one of the two batteries of his KS16S with a pair of cells at 0V, so he only can charge until 63V aprox. The strangest thing is that, as soon as the bad battery reaches 63V (may be a cell pair of its string goes to overvoltage) the two batteries stop to charge. It is a smart feature, because the two batteries are in parallel, so the bad battery would receive charge anyway into the output side while the good battery keeps charging until 67.2V. I do not know if the batteries talk each other to stop the charge, or to the motherboard to disconnect the charge port.
  8. About two years and 10,000km with a Kingsong KS16S Only good words for this KS16S. Never had a bad experience. Rock solid wheel. This is my second euc after a ninebot one E, which served me for another +10,000km. In this time I had to replace the tire. It was 4000km the original one (Kenda K1039) and 6000km the replacement (Kenda K1122). I recently have replaced the ball bearings as well, since the rotation was not as smooth as new. Battery is in good condition yet (better than the 9b1 battery, which I had to replace at 5.000km). In this time I believe it could have lost about 20% capacity more or less, so I hope it will last for another 10,000km Improvements that I see are: 1.- Better ilumination (I think is a general fault of near all eucs). I would need more power for the light, as well as focus over the road, to not glare other people or drivers. 2.- Magnetic pedals (which anyway I have done by DIY) 3.- Better handle (it appears to be not very robust and I do not know how much time will last), and motor stop when lifted. 4.- Better brake time (9b1 brakes are faster. May be at the expense of the battery life?) Fantastic wheel anyway!
  9. @Flying W , @esaj, @Mimolette: The KS16S ball bearings were replaced at 10,000 kms of use aprox. @Rywokast: Rotating the wheel by hand with the euc powered off, it showed some kind of roughness. Very little, but anyway, it was not as smooth as new, so I decided to replace them before to have any issue. I am about 72kg and I try to drive the wheel in a gentile way, avoiding bumps and jumps over the curb. May be the stocks ball bearings would last another 10,000 kms more, I will never know. Anyway, I can say that the replaced bearings were a little worn. Not very much, but the looseness was noticeable moving the inner ring with my fingers, especially comparing them with the new ones, which were entirely tight. My Ninebot One are 10,000 kms as well, and its bearings appears to be better than the ks16s ones. Better quality? I don't know... I have replaced them with bearings of the SKF brand, which I know it is a quality brand. The old ones appears to be SILNT brand. No idea about their quality.
  10. I have replaced the ball bearings of my ks16s. It is not an easy job. Fist of all, you need to dissasembly the wheel and take the motor apart. Because I am changing the tire, I haved dismounted it, but I think this is not needed. Next thing you need is to release the pedals from the hub. Be warned: the screws are very, very tight. You will need a good strong tools. With the pedals removed, a thick washers in both sides are now free. Be carefull: do not loose them. Now you can take the motor apart. First of all, remove all the twelve screws. Again: do not loose them. You can now open the motor. The cover is now free so you can raise it (be carefull with the cables and connectors). Note that there is a thin washer in the hub (if it is not glued to the bearing) The first bearing is in the cover. You can replace it now. In order to do that, you will need a way to push the ball bearing out of the cover. I use a big screw with a head that can go through the cover hole, but no so thin to go through the ball bearing hole, so it can push the bearing out to the inside part of the cover. On the other side of the screw, you need something to get the screw support against the cover, with a hole big enough to allow the ball bearing to get out. I have used a big circular saw drill tool. All you need to do is to tighten the screw. With each turn, you will push the ball bearing, and it will be out soon. Now you must clean the ball bearing housing of the motor cover. And put some grease once clean. And grease the new ball bearing too. To put the new bearing you can use the screw pushing it now in the other way. I have tried this method four of five times, but the bearing always tended to bend someway, so finally I have used a hammer with a very flat, thick metal platform, to fit it evenly. Now, in order to access the other ball bearing, you will need to remove the inner part of the motor (hub and coils). Because there are magnets all around, there is a bit tricky job. I have put a piece of wood over the floor, and then I have hit it with the bottom part of the hub, so the inner part of the motor can go up and get out of the motor housing. Be carefull with your fingers. Remember that there are a lot of magnets and the inside part of the motor can go up and down very quickly and can catch your fingers in between. To help the process, I have used three cable wires (as ropes) holding three of the motor spokes, and another person grabbing the ropes and pulling up. Probably you will needs several hits. The inside part of the motor will be released eventually and you will gain access to the other bearing. Be realized that there are another thin washer. To replace this ball bearing you can use the same method used with the motor cover. Now, to put the inner part of the motor again in its housing (do not forget the thin washer), a person can hold it from above (with the ropes) near the housing, and you can align the bottom part of the hub with the hole of the recently installed ball bearing. Not so easy, since the magnets are there trying to unbalance the thing, and trying to catch your fingers at the same time. A few tries and you will get it. Time to put the cover again (remember this side thin washer) and their screws. I have greased the cover edge all around before (where the edge contacts the motor housing), to prevent the water getting inside. Finally, put the thick washers and the pedals and thats all. I have took some picture and you have them here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/JDQGSzRwmBUXJpet7 If your DIY skills are not very good, try to not replace the ball bearings unless it is absolutely essential.
  11. I'll try to replace them this week and I'll post information about the process.
  12. Has anybody replaced the KS ball bearings? I think that my KS16S bearings are now not as smooth as new. Moving the wheel with my hand I can feel some roughness sometimes. May be it's time to replace them, and I suppose this will be not an easy work...
  13. In my experience, anti-puncture bands are not so good, because along the time they file the inner tube, because they are harder than the tube itself. Best solution for me it is slime, and a good tire. Kenda K-1122 which is easy to find through eBay or Aliexpress is very hard to puncture it.
  14. Covering the sensor with a partial dark (not opaque) stuff must help to switch on the lights before.
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