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2024 Begode Falcon - 14", Suspension, 100 V, 900 Wh, 1000 W Motor


techyiam

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Posted (edited)
41 minutes ago, aaron_syd said:

I already know what im doing to this wheel!

- remove kickstand

- change 3.5 tire to 2.75 or 3.00-10 (looking at Kenda K303A or similar)

- remove stock pads and replace with baby grizzlas

- paint all the orange sections black 😅

I'm so keen for the Falcon, and its pretty remarkable that the final wheel is indeed 25kg stock with pads and everything as promised, making the Falcon the only true successor to the s18 imo.

Why 3" tire?

I also will most likely remove kickstand, if i get it - i lean my wheel against anything.. (Who knows.. Maybe ill start to use it? But don't really see the need of one.)

I personally will give a try stock pads.. If not, i will right-out remove them. (I started out without pads and have been riding 3 years without any problems.) Now these alone will lower wheel weight by ~1.5kg.. Making it ~23kg. :) 

Edited by Funky
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4 hours ago, techyiam said:

Ride a T3 and a V12 back-to-back.

What wheels have you ridden?

Yeah, I don't have much experience, just three wheels:

A used airwheel knockoff that I bought for less than 50$ when starting out - the deal of my life :lol: - it's still useful for introducing people to riding, as there's almost zero fear of breaking it (also for the person that's learning, when they hear how much it costs first lol). 

Other than that, the Tesla and a V8F only.

I intend to seek out other riders soon, though, for some group ride opportunities, etc., but also precisely because I'm curious to try out some other wheels. :D

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5 hours ago, Funky said:

Why 3" tire?

I also will most likely remove kickstand, if i get it - i lean my wheel against anything.. (Who knows.. Maybe ill start to use it? But don't really see the need of one.)

I personally will give a try stock pads.. If not, i will right-out remove them. (I started out without pads and have been riding 3 years without any problems.) Now these alone will lower wheel weight by ~1.5kg.. Making it ~23kg. :) 

The 3.00-10 size has many options from many tire manufacturers, but I'm open to going smaller if there's any good options.

The metal kickstand is redundant as the trolley handle includes front bumpers which can be used as a stand. If the kickstand provides some extra rigidity, I'll probably choose to keep it on though. 

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35 minutes ago, aaron_syd said:

The 3.00-10 size has many options from many tire manufacturers, but I'm open to going smaller if there's any good options.

Hmm when i was looking at tires. Most 3" have same or similar variant in 3.5" size. Don't see the need of going smaller.. Aside of maybe ride quality/feel.

Like Heidenau K38 3,50-10  ,  MITAS B14 3.50-10  ,  KENDA K333 3.50-10 almost the same as Kenda K303A, there's so many to choose from. Also crazy knobbies at 2,75/3" size, which would be perfect for DIY studded winter tires.

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4 hours ago, Funky said:

Hmm when i was looking at tires. Most 3" have same or similar variant in 3.5" size. Don't see the need of going smaller.. Aside of maybe ride quality/feel.

Train tracking is often a problem with wider tires. Also in this case initially I thought a better mudguard may be a worthwhile addition. Something like the s18 would protect the forks from dirt better but that 3.50 is so tight there is no room for a mudguard with sides. So a 3.00 could be better for those reasons. However on sandy tracks the 3.5 will float better.

I have a feeling this is going to be popular. Different people will try different things and a wealth of knowledge on what works and what doesn't will build on the forums.

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3.5" is unnecessarily wide for this wheel, though it does make the wheel look pretty cool, I'm happy to go with 2.75-3". Less rolling resistance, less unsprung mass, less mass overall anyway (obviously depending on which tire you pick to replace the stock one).

3" Michelin s83 seems like a decent lightweight contender.

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DSC04101.jpg

Just now, aaron_syd said:

3" Michelin s83 seems like a decent lightweight contender.

Doesn't look that lightweight with decent tread depth, 'though it seems 30% of the surface is channels so I guess that helps, though maybe not in corners.

If you swap, don't forget to post your findings.

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1 hour ago, DavidB said:

DSC04101.jpg

Doesn't look that lightweight with decent tread depth, 'though it seems 30% of the surface is channels so I guess that helps, though maybe not in corners.

If you swap, don't forget to post your findings.

Almost perfect for screw in studs.. Ideally it would need even deeper tread.

I used bike studs on Heidenau K66 tire. (It has only 5mm deep tread.) But as we can get many M/C(Moped) tire options in 2.75"/3"/3.5". I wanted to try out screw in studs this time.

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3 hours ago, DavidB said:

DSC04101.jpg

Doesn't look that lightweight with decent tread depth, 'though it seems 30% of the surface is channels so I guess that helps, though maybe not in corners.

If you swap, don't forget to post your findings.

It's listed as 1.8 or 1.9kg on various sites, whereas most 3.0 and 3.5-10 tires seem to be around 2.5kg and as high as 3kg. I suspect the stock tire is around 2.2 or 2.3 kg - possibly a 3.5" chaoyang h967?

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42 minutes ago, aaron_syd said:

It's listed as 1.8 or 1.9kg on various sites, whereas most 3.0 and 3.5-10 tires seem to be around 2.5kg and as high as 3kg. I suspect the stock tire is around 2.2 or 2.3 kg - possibly a 3.5" chaoyang h967?

People have said there's gonna be a knobby choice also. Street vs Off-road.

I ride 95% on street and still will choose knobby, just because..

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5 hours ago, litewave said:

Bridgestone Hoop 275-10 should fit. It is 4-ply (2 tread, 2 sidewall) and weighs just 1.208kg.

It has been tested on the MCM5 by @houseofjob

 

image.thumb.jpeg.503d01859699494fa1518da7ca496108.jpeg

 

 

If original tire is 3.5", any 2.75" should fit.. Same goes for all 3". Same goes with 80, 90 wide ones. (At least they should.. With 90 width ones you are starting to play luck game.)

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Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, DavidB said:

I see steel rims with welds only 1/4 the circumference compared to the MCM5 alloy. Strength/cost vs weight?

Screenshotat2024-05-2813-36-04.thumb.png.9b0701f21f1164ecc475722bf254037a.png

Same rim as on A2, if nothing else.. Yes it's heavier, but same time more robust than alloy.

Cost/strength - yes. Weight - no bueno.

Edited by Funky
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On 5/23/2024 at 10:50 PM, Jason McNeil said:

FalconComponentWeightAnalysis..png.6e259c5633d64efa2d73ce873df719c9.png

That's a great overview! It would be awesome to have this for more EUCs to see where all the weight goes and why some are heavier than others.

@Jason McNeil in some of the videos posted in this thread, we could see that especially from a standstill, the Falcon is seemingly not that hard to overpower - do you happen to know whether this is a motor- (the diameter of the magnet ring looks quite small compared to the outer tire diameter), controlboard/capacitors- or battery-limitation (maybe 40T cells could help)?

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Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Rider1 said:

Falcon is seemingly not that hard to overpower

If we are to believe the advertised specs...

On 1/24/2024 at 10:32 AM, techyiam said:

AP1GczOzHOqygkIUmbXhFs2SeqpBDu-8pgKfqXDV

... freespin at 67kph for a 100V EUC is impressively slow. So it means the motor is sized for torque, not speed. 

The 220A current limit is low compared to modern EUC's... MSP 2020 was 250A.
Perhaps they stayed conservative on the current limit due to the 2p battery pack.

I expect performance similar to KS 16X. Good pull force for its class, but very little safety margin above 50kph. 

And finally, remember that 14"-class EUC's like Falcon are easier for the rider to overpower in general, because they are much more sensitive to small changes in your body position (due to the smaller radius of the tire). This makes them fun and easy to accelerate... until you reach the torque limit and create an overlean dip. 

 

Edited by RagingGrandpa
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Posted (edited)

So it's perfect for 30-40kph speeds.. Anything over 40kph not really needed. (At least for me) Sure it still can go faster, but why risk it?

Also 14" at 50kph??? Why would anyone wanna go that fast on small wheel in first place.. For those speeds i would imagine sensible riders would get bigger wheel in first place.

Or am i wrong to think like that? Even with my 18xl i have never ridden faster than 45kph. And 95% of times never go faster than 42kph. 70% of times under 35kph for daily commutes.

Edited by Funky
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1 hour ago, RagingGrandpa said:

...And finally, remember that 14"-class EUC's like Falcon are easier for the rider to overpower in general, because they are much more sensitive to small changes in your body position (due to the smaller radius of the tire). This makes them fun and easy to accelerate... until you reach the torque limit and create an overlean dip. 

This. ^^^

Given that the Falcon is a suspension wheel with wide tire, I expect this is going to be a much greater risk than on the MCM5 which is a bit scary to ride over 25mph.

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Posted (edited)
37 minutes ago, litewave said:

This. ^^^

Given that the Falcon is a suspension wheel with wide tire, I expect this is going to be a much greater risk than on the MCM5 which is a bit scary to ride over 25mph.

Does tire width also come into play? I thought only diameter.. Like riding on 18" vs 16" tire. 18" feels like sloth, more input needed from rider, more lean, etc.. Where 16" felt zippy and almost no need of leaning to get wheel going. (18x2.5" vs 16x2.125" tires.)

Falcon fat tire would be same diameter as 16x125". But does the 3.5" width also play a part??

Edited by Funky
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24 minutes ago, Funky said:

Does tire width also come into play? I thought only diameter.. Like riding on 18" vs 16" tire. 18" feels like sloth, more input needed from rider, more lean, etc.. Where 16" felt zippy and almost no need of leaning to get wheel going. (18x2.5" vs 16x2.125" tires.)

Falcon fat tire would be same diameter as 16x125". But does the 3.5" width also play a part??

Additional rotational mass reduces zippiness.

Would love it if an EUC manufacturer started using magnesium alloy for the motor. Not as tough as steel, but much lighter.
Would be good on a non-suspension wheel where the use-case doesn't involve jumping or stairs. 

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