Leaperkim Lynx 2700wh: 151V, 20" tire, suspension, 89lb

[Rollin-on-1]

18 hours ago, joyrider said:

You mean it has Low & High right?

Mine has low, or both hi and low on.  It doesn't have high only.

[Rollin-on-1]

22 hours ago, Tony_Inmotion said:

I have the Lupine as a helmet lamp... very nice light but very expensive. 

My concerns with helmet lights are:

1) they tend to hide bumps and dips because the high angle doesn't cast shadows with the smaller features and this causes a flattening effect.  This is far less of an issue with modern suspension wheels

2) I ride in groups a lot and helmet lights shine in peoples faces.

3) in a crash the light can cause stress risers and reduce the effectiveness of the helmet.

4) bugs in the face.

Helmet lights are good for seeing where you are going though, so they have their uses.

 

[bpong]

On 8/10/2024 at 8:30 PM, Skampster said:

..., Charge to 100%, especially with the lynx of all wheels. 

thanx Skampster !

i will modify my charging plans to include more charging to 100% to reinforce the correct balancing of my packs.

aug18,2024, my lynx was at 60% so i decided to recharge.  this time around instead of charging to  80%, i decided to set the cutoff voltage to 151.2V.  when i connected the charger and looked at the packs on the leaperkim app,  i noticed the left pack show a significant difference in voltage between cells 1-18 and 19-36:  cells 19-36 where all consistently abit higher in voltage than cells 1-18.  the right pack was in good shape with all cells close to the same voltage.  i started charging around 11am this sunday.

it took about 11 hours but the cells in both packs are now close in voltage.  i think that i will recharge to 100% most of the time to ensure the packs stay relatively close in voltage.  the BMS works quite nicely !!!

 

Edited August 19 by bpong
wanted to point out lynx BMS, ...

[RELAXi]

On 8/12/2024 at 6:36 PM, bpong said:

thanx Skampster !

i will modify my charging plans to include more charging to 100% to reinforce the correct balancing of my packs.

aug18,2024, my lynx was at 60% so i decided to recharge.  this time around instead of charging to  80%, i decided to set the cutoff voltage to 151.2V.  when i connected the charger and looked at the packs on the leaperkim app,  i noticed the left pack show a significant difference in voltage between cells 1-18 and 19-36:  cells 19-36 where all consistently abit higher in voltage than cells 1-18.  the right pack was in good shape with all cells close to the same voltage.  i started charging around 11am this sunday.

it took about 11 hours but the cells in both packs are now close in voltage.  i think that i will recharge to 100% most of the time to ensure the packs stay relatively close in voltage.  the BMS works quite nicely !!!

 

I have the same happen with cells 1-18 and 19-36 so I think it's normal. However I don't charge to 151.2V practically anymore at all because of battery life. I think saying to charge to 100% is wrong. Lynx will balance cells earlier already and on my normal use I never charge over 80% and when I check my max diff is always around 0.011V. 

[bpong]

12 minutes ago, RELAXi said:

I have the same happen with cells 1-18 and 19-36 so I think it's normal. However I don't charge to 151.2V practically anymore at all because of battery life. I think saying to charge to 100% is wrong. Lynx will balance cells earlier already and on my normal use I never charge over 80% and when I check my max diff is always around 0.011V. 

RELAXi;

i used to think that way for the longest time (5+yrs) until i went about viewing some videos on euc and battery cell balancing cause i now own an euc that has a BMS.  the best reference i found was a wrong way video on battery balancing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkQgdalpsnM

even wrong way cautions against charging to 100% but he does not object to it.

i think with the 50S batteries in my lynx packs,  i will be able to get about 250 charge cycles at 1C charge rate.  from my leaperkim app, the charge rate is approx 2.5A or less depending on the beginning or near the end of the charge.  for my seasonal commuting riding,  i plan to charge every 3 days or more, to 100%.  for my rate of use,  im lucky if i charge an euc up to 40 times a year cause i dont ride in winter, and my riding tapers up or down during spring and autumn respectively.  with that in mind, if i pay attention and take care of my packs, i could get 6 conservative riding seasons which puts me till age 72.  by that time (or before) i would have hung up my riding gear unless i experience some kind of miracle which allows me to keep riding past 72.  with the above in mind,  i think charging to 100% or close to 100% will still give me ample seasons of riding, IF i pay attention to the balancing of the cells and hopefully not experience any dead or bad cells.

my older eucs from my past i did charge to 80% but i do realize now that i do not know if those eucs had even passive balancing (glide3, teslaV2) so i do not know if their batteries are now in good shape or badly unbalanced.  they do both charge to 100% (or what a full indicator on them mean...) so the packs themselves are still charging to hopefully full capacity.  i did that once in awhile to ensure that if there was passive balancing, it would occur when i attempted to charge to full capacity.

i do not disagree with your decision to practice charging to 80%.  for my limited use,  i think near 100% charge capacity falls well within my planned duration of ownership.  im just guessing that you are much younger than me - and if you are,  then you certainly will benefit from the 80% charge limit and to that all i have to say is:  you are very very lucky to have more time to experience the fun in riding eucs !!!!

 

 

[Skampster]

1 hour ago, RELAXi said:

I have the same happen with cells 1-18 and 19-36 so I think it's normal. However I don't charge to 151.2V practically anymore at all because of battery life. I think saying to charge to 100% is wrong. Lynx will balance cells earlier already and on my normal use I never charge over 80% and when I check my max diff is always around 0.011V. 

You do realize how illogical this is. When you charge to 500 full cycles, your battery capacity will drop to 80%, and you dont like this idea. So in order to an avoid only having 80% battery, you only allow yourself for the entirety of owning your wheel, 80% of your battery.  So why not enjoy 100% of the lynx power and range for what will probably be years, before you get stuck with only 80%, which might never happen while you own the wheel. Just don’t leave it at 100% for long periods. 
 

My Sherman S has had 30 full charges (I keep count) and in those 30 full charges it’s done 3600km’s. 500/30 = 16.67. 

16.67 x 3600kms = 60,012km’s. 
So my Sherman S will do 60,000km’s before 80% degradation. That ain’t going to happen, the wheel will be long gone before then.  

[novazeus]

i want to give my 2 cents on the lynx torsional flex of it's suspension/setup.

i noticed it just pulling it out of the box and flexing it turned on. 

i didn't see this as a design flaw.

i wonder if i grabbed the front wheel of my dirt bike and clamped down the headstock, would it also have torsional flex.

my paths are basically dirt bowls of different shapes and sizes. 

i think the lynx's torsional flex helps sofen these side impacts. like left to right shock absorption, along with it's super soft tire. 

watch my videos esp on the new e/w cut and u can see how violently the lynx squirts underneath me, but i'm just standing on the pedals letting it do the work. 

so, yeah, more than my v13's or s22's but that torsional flex is a positive for me with my terrain. perfect for my weight. haha, colder weather might be a problem.

[InfiniteWheelie]

Without having owned or examined a suspension LeaperKim wheel in real life, 2 things come to mind when people mention “flex”. Not sure how accurate this is, it’s just my idea.

Firstly is the way the forks are joined to the rest of the e-wheel. It’s not the best method in my opinion and I can see how it could reduce rigidity. In my opinion joining the fork legs via a top clamp (or using the controller box directly for this purpose) would be a better way to go, like the Commander Pro.

Secondly are the battery cases themselves. It seems to me that without some kind of rolling/sliding support near the axle, they are able to bend inward due to the riders weight. Again, the Commander Pro solves this by supporting the cases with rollers down low by the axle.

Edited August 20 by InfiniteWheelie

[lu2x]

Greetings to all EUC fanatics. I have a technical problem with my LYNX. For about three months, I get prickles in my right calf. I thought I had a thorn or a prick in the velcro that holds the powerpads, but I never found anything there. It happened very irregularly and I didn't know what it was about. I recently rode the same route for a few days in a row and realized that it happens in exactly the same places.
Now I'm not kidding!!! I tested it for the last 300 km and it was confirmed 100 percent. I get electric shocks from the screw that holds the battery to the calf - it only happens when I drive under high voltage poles. It sounds incredible and I can't explain it. I would like to complain about the bike, but I don't believe that anyone would test the defect enough to accept my complaint. I would just be without a wheel for a long time and I don't want that. I want to make a video about the problem and measure it with a multimeter, but I don't know how to do it. I will measure the DC current on the multimeter and connect the + wire to this specific screw, but where should I place the - wire?

[joyrider]

38 minutes ago, lu2x said:

Greetings to all EUC fanatics. I have a technical problem with my LYNX. For about three months, I get prickles in my right calf. I thought I had a thorn or a prick in the velcro that holds the powerpads, but I never found anything there. It happened very irregularly and I didn't know what it was about. I recently rode the same route for a few days in a row and realized that it happens in exactly the same places.
Now I'm not kidding!!! I tested it for the last 300 km and it was confirmed 100 percent. I get electric shocks from the screw that holds the battery to the calf - it only happens when I drive under high voltage poles. It sounds incredible and I can't explain it. I would like to complain about the bike, but I don't believe that anyone would test the defect enough to accept my complaint. I would just be without a wheel for a long time and I don't want that. I want to make a video about the problem and measure it with a multimeter, but I don't know how to do it. I will measure the DC current on the multimeter and connect the + wire to this specific screw, but where should I place the - wire?

Shocking.

 

[t0me]

Wouldn't be hard to isolate it.     Wouldn't confirm the problem but a bit of extra velcro and it would stop happening.

 

[Rawnei]

7 hours ago, lu2x said:

Greetings to all EUC fanatics. I have a technical problem with my LYNX. For about three months, I get prickles in my right calf. I thought I had a thorn or a prick in the velcro that holds the powerpads, but I never found anything there. It happened very irregularly and I didn't know what it was about. I recently rode the same route for a few days in a row and realized that it happens in exactly the same places.
Now I'm not kidding!!! I tested it for the last 300 km and it was confirmed 100 percent. I get electric shocks from the screw that holds the battery to the calf - it only happens when I drive under high voltage poles. It sounds incredible and I can't explain it. I would like to complain about the bike, but I don't believe that anyone would test the defect enough to accept my complaint. I would just be without a wheel for a long time and I don't want that. I want to make a video about the problem and measure it with a multimeter, but I don't know how to do it. I will measure the DC current on the multimeter and connect the + wire to this specific screw, but where should I place the - wire?

That screw is only connected to suspension, if indeed there is static from somewhere it must come all the way from the controller housing through the chassis meaning it will be the whole chassis (any metal part directly connected to the controller housing).

[PourUC]

On 8/20/2024 at 5:50 AM, InfiniteWheelie said:

Without having owned or examined a suspension LeaperKim wheel in real life, 2 things come to mind when people mention “flex”. Not sure how accurate this is, it’s just my idea.

Firstly is the way the forks are joined to the rest of the e-wheel. It’s not the best method in my opinion and I can see how it could reduce rigidity. In my opinion joining the fork legs via a top clamp (or using the controller box directly for this purpose) would be a better way to go, like the Commander Pro.

Secondly are the battery cases themselves. It seems to me that without some kind of rolling/sliding support near the axle, they are able to bend inward due to the riders weight. Again, the Commander Pro solves this by supporting the cases with rollers down low by the axle.

Few bits.

The flex most likely comes from the metal itself. The suspension casing already acts as a core structural component.

The suspension bolts into the batter cases via 8 bolts each, then the battery boxes bolt into the top motherboard casing. 

With all the bolts tight with loctite you do get a complete rectangle of support with most of the flex most likely coming from the actual battery cases themselves.

[RELAXi]

On 8/19/2024 at 11:22 PM, Skampster said:

You do realize how illogical this is. When you charge to 500 full cycles, your battery capacity will drop to 80%, and you dont like this idea. So in order to an avoid only having 80% battery, you only allow yourself for the entirety of owning your wheel, 80% of your battery.  So why not enjoy 100% of the lynx power and range for what will probably be years, before you get stuck with only 80%, which might never happen while you own the wheel. Just don’t leave it at 100% for long periods. 
 

My Sherman S has had 30 full charges (I keep count) and in those 30 full charges it’s done 3600km’s. 500/30 = 16.67. 

16.67 x 3600kms = 60,012km’s. 
So my Sherman S will do 60,000km’s before 80% degradation. That ain’t going to happen, the wheel will be long gone before then.  

Yes I heard this talk. Of course I charge to 100% when I need it. My point was: I don't think it's dangerous to only charge to 80% always if you don't need to, since Lynx will balance the cells earlier when they are fully charged.

[novazeus]

 

[Duster]

4 hours ago, PourUC said:

Few bits.

The flex most likely comes from the metal itself. The suspension casing already acts as a core structural component.

The suspension bolts into the batter cases via 8 bolts each, then the battery boxes bolt into the top motherboard casing. 

With all the bolts tight with loctite you do get a complete rectangle of support with most of the flex most likely coming from the actual battery cases themselves.

From WrongWay's newest video (thanks Novazeus for posting that), Adam suggests that his removal of the kickstand may contribute to some flex. I have seen others suggest keeping the kickstand on for rigidity when talking about other brands as well, so this is a common concern.

That said, would it be out of the realm of reason to imagine a "front support" that provides kickstand-like support, but just sticks close to the rest of the body without sticking out like the kickstand (almost like the trolley handle of the S22, but curving below the bottom of the Lynx's front handle)? It sounds entirely redundant when I think about it, especially considering such a front brace would be redundant. The only efficacy I could imagine such a brace having would be because it mounts as low on the body as the kickstand does and effectively mirrors the potential support the kickstand provides. It still seems like a frivolous effort, for some reason...

[Rawnei]

20 minutes ago, Duster said:

From WrongWay's newest video (thanks Novazeus for posting that), Adam suggests that his removal of the kickstand may contribute to some flex. I have seen others suggest keeping the kickstand on for rigidity when talking about other brands as well, so this is a common concern.

That said, would it be out of the realm of reason to imagine a "front support" that provides kickstand-like support, but just sticks close to the rest of the body without sticking out like the kickstand (almost like the trolley handle of the S22, but curving below the bottom of the Lynx's front handle)? It sounds entirely redundant when I think about it, especially considering such a front brace would be redundant. The only efficacy I could imagine such a brace having would be because it mounts as low on the body as the kickstand does and effectively mirrors the potential support the kickstand provides. It still seems like a frivolous effort, for some reason...

I have a kickstand printed in TPU and again no problems with rigidity and flex, same with my friends.

Adam took his wheel apart and didn't torque things with a torque wrench during re-assembly.

[Skampster]

5 hours ago, RELAXi said:

Yes I heard this talk. Of course I charge to 100% when I need it. My point was: I don't think it's dangerous to only charge to 80% always if you don't need to, since Lynx will balance the cells earlier when they are fully charged.

You are correct about the lynx, but if you want the headroom power gives you, you’re better off charging to 100%. My only poi t for the lynx was that people try to save the wheel from 80% by charging g to 80%, it’s counter intuitive. 

[Skampster]

Wrong way is wrong in regards to how the Lynx charger behaves when near full charge, as in constantly turning on and off. Of course, this is what happens with both my Lynx and Sherman S, but my Falcon and its charger does not do this. It charges till about 0.8amps than stops. 
But if you place my falcon charger on my Sherman S, it behaves exactly the same as the Leaperkim chargers do. So it’s not the behavior of the charger, it’s how a charger behaves when connected to certain types of BMS’s. 

[novazeus]

this morning it was pretty damp so i took a v13.

we did fine on our ranch patrol but i've been riding the lynxes a lot lately for this chore, and the v13 felt clunky and noisy compared to the lynx.

so for just toting me around, not carrying packages from my gate, i'll pick a lynx every time. just less effort. 15-20 minutes and i've accomplished what i wanted. scaring off coyotes and trespassers while checking on my pastures and animals. 

i dreamed about a drone flying this route but i worried about liability.

i've got around 500 miles on each of my lynes, and i figure the knobby tire will last forever on this dirt, and as long as they keep working without me having to work on them, that will be great. the lynxes are more economical too on electrons and that's a biggie when u live off grid.

[daniel1234]

I am close to 3 000 km on Lynx. Nothing is perfect, but wheel is worth its price (2650 euro) I paid. Especially compared to begode products I had before.

I recommend to use a lot of threadlocker glue after tyre change, especialy if screw is in magnesium. Not sure if you can re-tap hole there with helicoil.
 

[PourUC]

3 hours ago, daniel1234 said:

I am close to 3 000 km on Lynx. Nothing is perfect, but wheel is worth its price (2650 euro) I paid. Especially compared to begode products I had before.

I recommend to use a lot of threadlocker glue after tyre change, especialy if screw is in magnesium. Not sure if you can re-tap hole there with helicoil.
 

I fixed a puncture recently and every bolt got a quick wirebrush clean and a fresh coating of threadlock. Feels as tight rigid as it did before the change.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

I would like to report some "Lynx abuse"

 

[meepmeepmayer]

4 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

I would like to report some "Lynx abuse"

Poor wheel!!! I'm calling WPS (Wheel Protective Services) on that guy!

Did the rider expect to jump further, or did he expect the wheel to take that impact? I can't tell what exactly is going on. Or rather who to "blame": the rider for missing the target, or the wheel for not working as expected (regardless how realistic or unrealistic that expectation may be).

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, meepmeepmayer said:

Poor wheel!!! I'm calling WPS (Wheel Protective Services) on that guy!

Did the rider expect to jump further, or did he expect the wheel to take that impact? I can't tell what exactly is going on. Or rather who to "blame": the rider for missing the target, or the wheel for not working as expected (regardless how realistic or unrealistic that expectation may be).

I don't think they calculated much there, just yolo'd it and hoped for the best, I think the same russian group (EXC) wrecked a couple of wheels by now.