techyiam Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 (edited) 4 hours ago, stizl said: Ditto to the above: Pad placement and lower psi. I run 26psi at 175lbs rider weight on the knobby. I don’t do stairs unless they’re in my way and I’m going down them but I ride rocks and roots all day with no issues with rim checks. I see in your profile that you ride both a Patton and a Lynx. If you only rode on pavement around town, would you have bought the Lynx, given that you already have a Patton. If yes, what are the things that compel you to still buy the Lynx? Thanks. Edited February 4 by techyiam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZT-Colorado Posted February 4 Share Posted February 4 50 minutes ago, techyiam said: I see in your profile that you ride both a Patton and a Lynx. If you only rode on pavement around town, would you have bought the Lynx, given that you already have a Patton. If yes, what are the things that make the Lynx more desirable over the Patton.? Thanks. Lynx is more stable = better on pavement. More here: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydracricket Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 https://grizzlapads.com/product/veteran-lynx-upgrades-set/ Looks like grizzla released their lynx kit, but without bumpers like they have on the patton and the Sherman s? Do they usually come out with those later or are they not making them for the Lynx? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan5508 Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 Currently running 35psi on the street tire (280lbs riding weight) Thinking about dropping it down a bit as the Lynx does seem a bit squirrelly. I plan on printing bigger toe pads this week once I get some days off work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 (edited) 1 hour ago, Ryan5508 said: Thinking about dropping it down a bit as the Lynx does seem a bit squirrelly. If dropping the tire pressure doesn't help, you may want to consider added tire pressure. As for myself, on my T3, V12, and Abrams, if I go to too low a tire pressure, the wheel will go all squirrelly. But it also depend on how stiff the tire is. On my T3, I need about 35 psi minimum. Actually, with the stock CST 1488 tire, I could a lot lower. But with this Chao Yang tire, it goes squirrelly. The V12 with a very stiff small motorcycle/scooter tire, I need a minimum of 15 psi. On the Abrams, with the stock tire, it needs a minimum of 20 psi. This tire is tubeless and is a 2.75-17 tire. Interestingly enough, the tire on the V12 is a 16x2.5, tubeless tire, but it is a lot stiffer than the Abrams tire. And I weigh about 150 lbs. Edited February 6 by techyiam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peytole Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 I don't know how to adjust the suspension preload. Is there a table with the weight of the driver and the number of laps to be completed? I weigh 85 kg and I tightened by 1 ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 6 minutes ago, peytole said: I don't know how to adjust the suspension preload. Is there a table with the weight of the driver and the number of laps to be completed? I weigh 85 kg and I tightened by 1 ring. You adjust preload until you get around 25% to 30% sag. The exact number is depending on your suspension stiffness preference, or how much tire dip below the road surface you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 2 hours ago, peytole said: I don't know how to adjust the suspension preload. Is there a table with the weight of the driver and the number of laps to be completed? I weigh 85 kg and I tightened by 1 ring. You need to measure the sag. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sprite Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 I'm having a weird issue with my Lynx and I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same issue. I was out for a ride and decided to turn on my headlight, when I turned it on the wheel slowly dipped forward. After some testing I found when the headlight is turned on there's a loud whining noise and the wheel slowly dips forward and corrects itself after about 10 seconds, once the headlight is turned off the whine goes away. I checked again this morning and now it's dipping a lot more forward. I'm in contact with Ewheels and they're in contact with LK. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 3 hours ago, Sprite said: I'm having a weird issue with my Lynx and I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same issue. I was out for a ride and decided to turn on my headlight, when I turned it on the wheel slowly dipped forward. After some testing I found when the headlight is turned on there's a loud whining noise and the wheel slowly dips forward and corrects itself after about 10 seconds, once the headlight is turned off the whine goes away. I checked again this morning and now it's dipping a lot more forward. I'm in contact with Ewheels and they're in contact with LK. That's a first! Let us know the conclusion. 🙏 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
o u euc 2 Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 4 hours ago, Sprite said: I'm having a weird issue with my Lynx and I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same issue. I was out for a ride and decided to turn on my headlight, when I turned it on the wheel slowly dipped forward. After some testing I found when the headlight is turned on there's a loud whining noise and the wheel slowly dips forward and corrects itself after about 10 seconds, once the headlight is turned off the whine goes away. I checked again this morning and now it's dipping a lot more forward. I'm in contact with Ewheels and they're in contact with LK. That's trippy. I've been turning mine on while going down the highway. That would suck to get a dip at speed. Maybe I better not do that, lol. I haven't noticed that ever happening to mine. I don't see how that would happen. I hope they get you sorted quick. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick Robert Posted February 6 Share Posted February 6 1 hour ago, DumbWheel said: That's trippy. I've been turning mine on while going down the highway. That would suck to get a dip at speed. Maybe I better not do that, lol. I also turn on the light when riding, using EUC World. Never had this issue. Using the latest firmware. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollin-on-1 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 7 hours ago, Sprite said: I'm having a weird issue with my Lynx and I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same issue. I was out for a ride and decided to turn on my headlight, when I turned it on the wheel slowly dipped forward. After some testing I found when the headlight is turned on there's a loud whining noise and the wheel slowly dips forward and corrects itself after about 10 seconds, once the headlight is turned off the whine goes away. I checked again this morning and now it's dipping a lot more forward. I'm in contact with Ewheels and they're in contact with LK. On my Patton, the beeper would make a steady loud beep when I turned on the light. After removing the beeper, my headlight still flashes when I press buttons. I never got any dips associated with it though. My guess is you have a new controller in your future. Best of luck! Let us know how it works out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sprite Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 Ewheels shipped a new DC board to me, hopefully that fixes it. 2 hours ago, Patrick Robert said: I also turn on the light when riding, using EUC World. Never had this issue. Using the latest firmware. Try turning on the headlight from a stop, it doesn't seem to do it while rolling. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forwardnbak Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 I'm picking mine up end of this week 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 8 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said: On my Patton, the beeper would make a steady loud beep when I turned on the light. After removing the beeper, my headlight still flashes when I press buttons. I never got any dips associated with it though. My guess is you have a new controller in your future. Best of luck! Let us know how it works out. Did you check if cable was fully inserted? That's a typical symptom of stereo connector not being fully in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimDelaware Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 16 hours ago, Sprite said: I'm having a weird issue with my Lynx and I'm wondering if anyone else is having the same issue. I was out for a ride and decided to turn on my headlight, when I turned it on the wheel slowly dipped forward. After some testing I found when the headlight is turned on there's a loud whining noise and the wheel slowly dips forward and corrects itself after about 10 seconds, once the headlight is turned off the whine goes away. I checked again this morning and now it's dipping a lot more forward. I'm in contact with Ewheels and they're in contact with LK. Hey Sprite, I haven’t used my headlight whilst riding just yet and noticed no dip, but I’ve found mine does make a very high pitched (variable) whine at rest. Does anyone else’s make this noise? I assumed it was somewhat stabdard for high powered lights like this but admit I have no benchmark. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollin-on-1 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 1 hour ago, Rawnei said: Did you check if cable was fully inserted? That's a typical symptom of stereo connector not being fully in. I'll double check, but Ithink there is either a problem in the cable when it was manufactured or the motherboard where the port was soldered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollin-on-1 Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 2 hours ago, Rawnei said: Did you check if cable was fully inserted? That's a typical symptom of stereo connector not being fully in. Just checked it again and ot is fully seated. I even unplugged and replugged the cable and it still does it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted February 7 Share Posted February 7 3 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said: Just checked it again and ot is fully seated. I even unplugged and replugged the cable and it still does it. Ok so the stereo connector is one positive (tip) and two negatives (middle and bottom), if beeper is constantly beeping when light is on that means somewhere along the way the two negatives are shorted, it could be the cable itself that is faulty inside (the actual stereo plug), it could be that the stereo connection hole is off so it can not be fully inserted as it should be (even if it looks that way), if you have any friend with a Sherman S, Patton or Lynx that is willing you could test with their light to see if the problem remains. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rollin-on-1 Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 10 hours ago, Rawnei said: Ok so the stereo connector is one positive (tip) and two negatives (middle and bottom), if beeper is constantly beeping when light is on that means somewhere along the way the two negatives are shorted, it could be the cable itself that is faulty inside (the actual stereo plug), it could be that the stereo connection hole is off so it can not be fully inserted as it should be (even if it looks that way), if you have any friend with a Sherman S, Patton or Lynx that is willing you could test with their light to see if the problem remains. Good recommendation and something I have considered. I removed the beeper for a short-term solution, but I have to admit that I like it in stealth mode. The PWM tiltback has taken care of me so far. I have a replacement control board, but I think I'll keep it as a backup. At some point I'll probably try a different light like you have recommended, but I'm also not too concerned about the timing. I commute via light rail and take my wheel into the office, so I see stealth mode as kind of advantageous. Thank you for the recommendation though. Your support is always welcome and appreciated. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Ryan5508 Posted February 8 Popular Post Share Posted February 8 Printed Vertex's bigger foot pad covers and his light cutoff. Everything printed and fit great. The bigger foot pads are a lot nicer to have. Printed them in tpu and the cover in petg. 6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UniVehje Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 9 hours ago, Ryan5508 said: and his light cutoff. Does it actually do the job? Do you see a difference in beam shape? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawnei Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, UniVehje said: Does it actually do the job? Do you see a difference in beam shape? I don't think these solutions work as it doesn't break line of sight from pedestrian right into the led, only if you angle light downward (maybe( but then kinda defeats the purpose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Forwardnbak Posted February 9 Popular Post Share Posted February 9 Joining the party 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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