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Leaperkim Lynx 2700wh: 151V, 20" tire, suspension, 89lb


RagingGrandpa

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On 2/19/2024 at 12:43 AM, onkeldanuel said:

May i ask which combination of infill and wall-thickness youve used? Im still dialing in this especially on my frontpads...

i feel that 2 walls with 14% gyroid is still little to hard for my liking with the relatively soft overture tpu...0.4 noozle

I ended up using 6 walls + 10% infill. Figure it will hold up better. 

It to the touch feels very similar to the flows. They seem to be using a different material though. Grizzla's are more squared off vs the ones I printed. That makes mine feel stiffer at the top but good in the center of the pad

I used the bambu preset w/ overture hs tpu

I had tested 30%, 15%, 10% and 3%

If you wanted a softer pad I think 3% is too soft and 12% is where it's too firm. I like 10% but would say try 6-7% if you want soft. 

Edit - now that they are on the Lynx I would say 6% infill would be a good setting. The fronts feel good at 10% but the rear pads feel a bit stiff. Granted I have to get them positioned properly still once I get outside. 

Screenshot_20240219_014751_Chrome.jpg

Edited by Ryan5508
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5 hours ago, novazeus said:

haha, y'all are gonna make me go crazy.

@Rawneiis questioning my decision to go to a 900 pound spring on the s22 when he's heavier and runs a lighter spring. and likes the 70lb on the lynx. 

@CrabChampionis lighter than me by quite a bit, and likes the 66lb spring

and @onkeldanuelis heavier and likes the 70lb spring. 

i'm gonna be about 170 pounds riding weight. so i went with the 66lb. i'd rather be a bit on the firm side. i'm hoping to get added suspension from tire changes as well. 

i went out and mowed and rolled during the rain intermission, and this is what scares me the most. why i won't go smaller than a 14" rim.

grassed over hole. it would swallow a patton or v14 tire and off the front u would go. 

717F1440-1DB8-4677-A8F3-968D6550C2D6.jpeg.5cb2ba477c590ccc3c7f808e96da9ae8.jpeg

3C0F0D11-9251-4260-B14A-CF20C53F79E0.jpeg.6dbfe271eb76d2d6cfad12c60051c71b.jpeg

The correct way to choose spring it to go by how much sag you get, not how much you foot sinks into the ground.

With a 70lb spring on the Lynx I get my desired sag, same with a 630lb spring on the S22, performance when I ride reflects this and it's very good.

With a 900lb spring on the S22 I am sure you don't get that much sag on it, i.e. it will be very stiff and not perform optimally but as long as you are happy and it works for you.

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4 hours ago, Rawnei said:

The correct way to choose spring it to go by how much sag you get, not how much you foot sinks into the ground.

With a 70lb spring on the Lynx I get my desired sag, same with a 630lb spring on the S22, performance when I ride reflects this and it's very good.

With a 900lb spring on the S22 I am sure you don't get that much sag on it, i.e. it will be very stiff and not perform optimally but as long as you are happy and it works for you.

Hello Rawnei, how much do you weigh with your equipment? Me, including equipment, I think I am 210lb and I ordered a 66lb Lynx which seems correct to me?

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18 minutes ago, Lexonit said:

Hello Rawnei, how much do you weigh with your equipment? Me, including equipment, I think I am 210lb and I ordered a 66lb Lynx which seems correct to me?

Closer to 110kg, 240lb, but use this chart instead, it will be more accurate than trying to approximate from other peoples weight:

 

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If you weigh less than 100kgs fully equipped, I would take the 66lbs. Above 100kgs, 70 would be ideal. I chose the 66 for my 90 full and it's perfect. If it does not suit you, it is possible to adjust the oil level and also change the spring.

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Thanks, yes I already used this chart for my order, I figured 66lb was safer. We'll see ! I also carefully kept the advice on suspension adjustment, I actually applied it to my V13 and it works really well. Greetings

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3 minutes ago, peytole said:

If you weigh less than 100kgs fully equipped, I would take the 66lbs. Above 100kgs, 70 would be ideal. I chose the 66 for my 90 full and it's perfect. If it does not suit you, it is possible to adjust the oil level and also change the spring.

I don't think it's a good idea to deviate from the amount of oil that is supposed to be in there, that's not the right way to try to adjust for wrong amount of sag, what you want to do in that case is exchange the springs which is also possible.

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31 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

I don't think it's a good idea to deviate from the amount of oil that is supposed to be in there, that's not the right way to try to adjust for wrong amount of sag, what you want to do in that case is exchange the springs which is also possible.

You can do quite a lot with oil amount and viscosity in this suspension design , thats one of the great things about it imo 

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36 minutes ago, onkeldanuel said:

You can do quite a lot with oil amount and viscosity in this suspension design , thats one of the great things about it imo 

Viscosity sure that's one thing if you want more or less dampening but I don't think changing the amount is a great idea that will amount to much practical use.

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

Viscosity sure that's one thing if you want more or less dampening but I don't think changing the amount is a great idea that will amount to much practical use.

By lowering the amount of oil you also increase the airgap in the chamber and therefore it gets a little softer from midstroke on due to the fact, that air is compressable, while oil isnt....

So its also an good Tuningpossibility imo

In General tunging gets done in motocrossbikes with this Forkdesign, especially with rebound and compression in different legs , so the one side doesent compromise the other side/functionality

(different viscosity for rebound/compression for example...lower amount of oil only has influence on compression, not on rebound)

 

https://oem-motorcycle.myshopify.com/blogs/posts/getting-the-most-out-of-your-old-forks?shpxid=813b9fcf-13cd-4f95-93d3-c870f16363de

 

Look at this graph and vice versa/opposite direction if lowering oilheight and decreasing viscosity for example...

 

Compression_chart_480x480.jpg

Edited by onkeldanuel
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38 minutes ago, versus said:

Dont like that i see this. I just replaced my old wheel (v12 HT) with Lynx due to cutoff.. 

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3h8Rj2M3aX

might have slipped on the grovel

 

 

 

 

figures. i just put a deposit on a lynx. 

normally i burn in my wheels on my road.

not that faceplanting in my pastures would be fun, but more survivable than my cheese grater road. so i'll burn in the lynx in the pastures. if it survives 500 miles out there, it sb fine.

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48 minutes ago, novazeus said:

figures. i just put a deposit on a lynx. 

normally i burn in my wheels on my road.

not that faceplanting in my pastures would be fun, but more survivable than my cheese grater road. so i'll burn in the lynx in the pastures. if it survives 500 miles out there, it sb fine.

this one cut-out at 650 miles.  :/

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24 minutes ago, JZT-Colorado said:

this one cut-out at 650 miles.  :/

yeah, but were those pasture miles?

hopefully they'll be some followup and diagnosis of what happened.

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6 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Je ne pense pas que ce soit une bonne idée de s'écarter de la quantité d'huile qui est censée être là, ce n'est pas la bonne façon d'essayer de s'ajuster en cas d'affaissement incorrect, ce que vous voulez faire dans ce cas est d'échanger le ressorts ce qui est également possible.

It is possible to change the viscosity but it is also possible to slightly modify the quantity. This is done on bicycle and motorcycle suspensions which do not have adjustments to modify the parameters. Adding less oil helps soften the suspension. I did it for years on a mountain bike fork, it's still alive.

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On 2/18/2024 at 2:25 PM, Rawnei said:

First ride today and first impression: Very similar to the Patton, feels almost the same, super easy to bunny hop with the footlocks, feels very agile.

70lb spring and about 60% preload gave me perfect sag, it does feel a little bit stiffer than non-progressive spring for comparison but I also feel that mine might have some stiction, will be upgrading to SKF suspension seals in the future.

The new pedal mode in percentage is interesting, I found that 80% was very hard and 60% a bit too soft, will be experimenting more with that, I usually prefer more towards hard.

Build wise it seems that LeaperKim has learned a lot of lessons and made some clever design choices on this wheel, a big thumbs up for maintenance and/or modding.

Overall for me nice upgrade from the Patton as the tire diameter is not super important to me.

Same thoughts pretty much on my end. Plus, the pedals are really nice on here out of the 3 wheels. I really do not feel the need to replace them but I already have erides pedals and lowering kit coming soon. I really like that pedal softness mode, soft mode (0%) is supper soft on my end lol . I have not adjusted preload yet , but i did transfer over my suspension settings for rebound and preload COMPRESSION from my Sherman-S to the LYNX. Just did tire change, was not impressed with rubbing and amount of space the Shinko 244 took, so I redid the tire change again and place the Shinko 241 ON (My Patton has that tire installed as well.) Overall, I am impressed ,  tear down takes about 45 minutes (or less).      I highly recommend both LYNX and Patton based on build quality and easy tear down. (Taking a Shino 244 however was not so easy and required bar clamp on my end to take it off the rim)

Edited by WILSONEUC
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21 minutes ago, WILSONEUC said:

Same thoughts pretty much on my end. Plus, the pedals are really nice on here out of the 3 wheels. I really do not feel the need to replace them but I already have erides pedals and lowering kit coming soon. I really like that pedal softness mode, soft mode (0%) is supper soft on my end lol . I have not adjusted preload yet , but i did transfer over my suspension settings for rebound and preload from my Sherman-S to the LYNX. Just did tire change, was not impressed with rubbing and amount of space the Shinko 244 took, so I redid the tire change again and place the Shinko 241 ON (My Patton has that tire installed as well.) Overall, I am impressed ,  tear down takes about 45 minutes (or less).      I highly recommend both LYNX and Patton based on build quality and easy tear down. (Taking a Shino 244 however was not so easy and required bar clamp on my end to take it off the rim)

Oh no, the 244 isn't good? I was ready to order. Been at 20%, will try 0% :)

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I love the 244 on the master, and I have one waiting to be mounted on the lynx. The original tire is versatile but really bad on greasy terrain and a real soap on mud. For the rest it is really good on the road and on roads. I never understood why put on a road tire, I really like going everywhere with my wheel 😁.

 

The height of the pedals is perfect for my 176cm, and offroad.

 

I'm currently riding in medium mode, a lot of people say that soft mode is really good on lynx. To test....

 

New update today, I don't know what's changing.

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57 minutes ago, joyrider said:

Oh no, the 244 isn't good? I was ready to order. Been at 20%, will try 0% :)

Well i dont want to stop you from buying, installing. BUT below is a test ride with the tire. 
I am also a picky son of a gun ...and......it just was a tight fit and i don't  feel like shaving off the tire and pruning away at the fender to get rid of the rubbing sound. :p Many people say they have this tire on their LYNX so...i guess it is still a popular choice.

 

 

Edited by WILSONEUC
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