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20 hours ago, Fogman said:

New member here but not not anymore an EUC beginner… been riding a KS-14D since the end of August (over 300 miles done) and tried KS-16X, V8, V10 and S22. Except the V8, I didn’t like the others (heavy, uncomfortable). What I learned/understood for the EUC community, is that you need in fact 2-3 wheels. One that needs to be relatively light (under 20kg) and with a trolley handle for short commuting (10 miles) or short errands to the grocery store, one for long distance (1500Wh or more - 25 miles +) and one for trail/jumps.

I use my 14D for short errands (it’s perfect) but it has a limited range, it’s an « ankle » wheel which can be nervous (too) over bumps and road cracks, has a limited speed (always tilting back at 19 mph), is tough for the knees (always worried I will break the axle) and water resistance is unknown/low.

I could keep the 14D as my 2nd wheel and get a bigger wheel for long distance, long commuting BUT, geez, I really like the size/design/knobby tire/water resistance elements of the A2. Would it be a crazy decision to pick an A2?

Also, why the majority of A2 reviews on YT are done as first review/unboxing but there are like no long term reviews ?

I'm one of those guys who uses only 1 wheel.. No need for second or third. I use my wheel only for commuting to work. (I don't go for "fun" rides anymore.)

As someone who uses ks18xl for those "short" commuted daily to work.(5km round trip) I also kind of was looking at A2. My 18xl is awesome. But it's 1554Wh big/heavy battery is wasted on me.. I charge mine once every second week. (I once even rode 3 weeks without a single charge daily. Battery was only down to ~37% at end of 3rd week.)

I'm personally looking for something that goes at least 35-40km/h and has under 1000Wh battery. Also something that is light as possible. I would want my next wheel to be ~20kg. Not over 20kg. But that's mainly because i carry my wheel ALOT! I'm waiting for the rumored kingsong S14. :D It should be about same size as A2, but with suspension. And looking at S16/S19 it should be something like those.

Old small wheels - don't interest me at all. I'm waiting for new lightweight wheels to hit market. (As for youtube - big monster euc - more people watch. Small underpowered wheels - not interesting.) You won't be going off-road or jumping stairs with small wheel. So no point really making a review.. Same as all "OLD" small wheels - not many reviews.

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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Marty and his A2 was one of those. I am surprised someone as rational and XP-laden as him has said he would never trust one again. Sure I get it would be REALLY good to find out why it dropped him, but I can't believe that in his X years of experience not one of his many other wheels has done something similar and then been fine afterwards..

Marty is a very experienced rider. And he believes his accident was due to a random cutout. A case, much worse than what he had experienced before. That to me means, the failure was quite peculiar. Note also, we haven't heard of other A2 owners complaining about random cutouts so far.

When it comes to random cutouts. I too wouldn't ride the wheel again, if I can't figure out the cause and proper resolution.

In his case, he was seriously injured. So it was doubly so, as to not riding it again.

Even though I ride a V12 and an Abrams, I have never experienced a cutout of any kind.

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21 hours ago, Fogman said:

New member here but not not anymore an EUC beginner… been riding a KS-14D since the end of August (over 300 miles done) and tried KS-16X, V8, V10 and S22. Except the V8, I didn’t like the others (heavy, uncomfortable).

You get used to wheels once you start daily riding them, so after a week on each one of those you'd probably feel OK, so I wouldn't write those off just on initial riding comfort. :) 

21 hours ago, Fogman said:

What I learned/understood for the EUC community, is that you need in fact 2-3 wheels. One that needs to be relatively light (under 20kg) and with a trolley handle for short commuting (10 miles) or short errands to the grocery store, one for long distance (1500Wh or more - 25 miles +) and one for trail/jumps.

Erm.. no? Sure, that combination of wheels would cover generally all of the classic use cases, but you need only as much wheels as you find useful for your lifestyle and environment.

"Need 2-3 wheels" to me reads the same as when kids "need an iphone". :D

21 hours ago, Fogman said:

I use my 14D for short errands (it’s perfect) but it has a limited range, it’s an « ankle » wheel which can be nervous (too) over bumps and road cracks, has a limited speed (always tilting back at 19 mph), is tough for the knees (always worried I will break the axle) and water resistance is unknown/low.

I could keep the 14D as my 2nd wheel and get a bigger wheel for long distance, long commuting BUT, geez, I really like the size/design/knobby tire/water resistance elements of the A2. Would it be a crazy decision to pick an A2?

If you don't feel safe on your small wheel after 300 miles then yeah, it's a legit reason to upgrade.

Picking up a long distance/commute wheel if you actually know you want and will do long distances is also legit. But if you still continue riding mostly on the small "not safe" one - then obviously not the right choice. If you're using the new product less than 5/10 times, then I'd call it a bad decision. 

I ride my Nikola even if I just do the ~5km commute to and from the office. Allows me to ride any speed, take detours and/or go for an after-work rides and just feels much better than the V8F. Only time I'd switch to the V8F is super short distance and/or groceries and/or something like a hospital visit with many floors - more room/people friendly sized. 

21 hours ago, Fogman said:

Also, why the majority of A2 reviews on YT are done as first review/unboxing but there are like no long term reviews ?

It's probably because it's out only a few months. ;) Also, I believe usually the big wheels get more coverage and extra reviews as those are more popular. 

 

Sidenote: If I was to use the A2 as daily (non-winter) rider, I'd probably want the street tire for better riding feeling, traction, stability (I haven't riden A2 /w street tire, but I'm fairly certain it would ride, carve and corner much better). 

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13 minutes ago, Phonoman said:

If I was to use the A2 as daily (non-winter) rider, I'd probably want the street tire for better riding feeling, traction, stability (I haven't riden A2 /w street tire, but I'm fairly certain it would ride, carve and corner much better). 

100% agree. Street tire will feel way, way better than that knobby! Especially when turning..

For winter you can use original (knobby) tire with screw in studs. The bigger the knobs - the more aggressive studs can be put in. (I got 2x K66 80/80-14 tires for my 18xl. One being DIY studded.) :D 

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22 hours ago, Cerbera said:

An interesting read - thanks for sharing ! There are definitely moments of what I like to describe as 'quantum weirdness' on wheels from time to time and am quite prepared to accept that what happened to Marty and his A2 was one of those. I am surprised someone as rational and XP-laden as him has said he would never trust one again. Sure I get it would be REALLY good to find out why it dropped him, but I can't believe that in his X years of experience not one of his many other wheels has done something similar and then been fine afterwards...

I've had at least 1 cut-out that happened for no appreciable reason, followed by 2 years of equally inexplicable flawless performance after that ! Sometimes you just have to trust it, ATGATT and go !

Glad you appreciated this!  I am so new to this community, I am unsure how my input will be perceived!  I have a great deal of experience in many areas, and was a VERY active participant in mountain biking forums 20+ yrs ago, especially concerning racing & training.  This is an entirely new realm for me.  'Quantum weirdness' ... random things DO happen, but the overall "weirdness" of this world has become overwhelming at a macro-scale, so sometimes I have this sense I was transported to an alternate universe.  That the single great issue of our time is people who somehow have become confused about their perceptions of reality yet call it "identity" ... that level of weirdness tops it all.  I won't elaborate because someone might "be offended" ... but of course would viciously attack my belief without concern for offending me!

Marty's injury itself was rather severe - which feeds into the 'quantum weirdness' AND makes his own fears, however irrational they may appear to us, UNDERSTANDABLE.  Yesterday I went for a ride in the late afternoon, battery was rather low to start (think I measured ~71v) and it actually began beeping at me to slow down.  I have had wobbles before going fast enough to hear warning beeps, but the low voltage started it much sooner.  It sent a brief chill the first time (I have beeper at minimum for 'normal' sounds) as I new what it meant.  I have actually ridden SO LITTLE this is only the second time I have recharged it, the first time after simply seeing it drop to 3 bars.  This time I wanted a better feel for it.  I could tell that it didn't have much ZIP to it.  I am used to LED flashlights with regulated power supplies, so there is no noticeable effect until voltage REALLY drops, but these wheels do feel it all the way down.  I am finally coming to appreciate that we really have only a fraction of the available storage, although I have seen videos of people taking large wheels all the way to zero.  This A2 would not want to move at such a low voltage, but then again I don't have level terrain to ride near my home.

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13 minutes ago, OldSolo said:

I am finally coming to appreciate that we really have only a fraction of the available storage, although I have seen videos of people taking large wheels all the way to zero.  This A2 would not want to move at such a low voltage, but then again I don't have level terrain to ride near my home.

That's an important realisation to have made. People running them down to 0% are usually doing endurance tests or reviews, and they usually have to limp home the last few miles at 5 mph - but most people don't let their wheels get anywhere near the lowest 25%. And it's a good habit to get into to charge to 100% before every ride, regardless of how long or short it is - that way you always have the biggest buffer between you and wheel failure. Battery life is not reduced if you do this, but general safety, resistance to over-lean and power headroom levels are much increased. I don't think my battery has ever been allowed to go, or had to go lower than 85% !

 

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22 hours ago, Funky said:

I'm one of those guys who uses only 1 wheel.. No need for second or third. I use my wheel only for commuting to work. (I don't go for "fun" rides anymore.)

As someone who uses ks18xl for those "short" commuted daily to work.(5km round trip) I also kind of was looking at A2. My 18xl is awesome. But it's 1554Wh big/heavy battery is wasted on me.. I charge mine once every second week. (I once even rode 3 weeks without a single charge daily. Battery was only down to ~37% at end of 3rd week.)

I'm personally looking for something that goes at least 35-40km/h and has under 1000Wh battery. Also something that is light as possible. I would want my next wheel to be ~20kg. Not over 20kg. But that's mainly because i carry my wheel ALOT! I'm waiting for the rumored kingsong S14. :D It should be about same size as A2, but with suspension. And looking at S16/S19 it should be something like those.

Old small wheels - don't interest me at all. I'm waiting for new lightweight wheels to hit market. (As for youtube - big monster euc - more people watch. Small underpowered wheels - not interesting.) You won't be going off-road or jumping stairs with small wheel. So no point really making a review.. Same as all "OLD" small wheels - not many reviews.

If you are interested, I would be willing to remove a few of the exterior pieces of the A2 & weigh them, just to see how much they contribute.  I did weigh the original tire yesterday, it still has the little casting nubs on it & weighs 2075g.  These tubeless tires are far heavier than tires with tubes.  I did not weigh the Pirelli before mounting, it felt about the same.  The side pads are dense foam, so they likely contribute little weight & it would be hard to find something else.  I truly think that the construction of wheels have become more robust & so the weights you seek (and I confess it would be nice to have something >15kg) aren't going to be coming from manufacturers.

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23 minutes ago, OldSolo said:

Marty's injury itself was rather severe - which feeds into the 'quantum weirdness' AND makes his own fears, however irrational they may appear to us, UNDERSTANDABLE

Yeah, I should qualify what I said a bit more in the light of the fact that his machine actually turned itself off while in motion, which is an exceptionally rare (almost unheard of) event, which should shake the trust of anyone in that particular machine going forward. He hasn't, after all, said that he won't trust ANY A2 ever again, just that one ! But of course Roger has been gung-ho'ing his way around on that particular wheel for a while now without any sign that anything is or has ever been wrong with it... I really do hope we know the answer one day.

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3 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

That's an important realisation to have made. People running them down to 0% are usually doing endurance tests or reviews, and they usually have to limp home the last few miles at 5 mph - but most people don't let their wheels get anywhere near the lowest 25%. And it's a good habit to get into to charge to 100% before every ride, regardless of how long or short it is - that way you always have the biggest buffer between you and wheel failure. Battery life is not reduced if you do this, but general safety, resistance to over-lean and power headroom levels are much increased. I don't think my battery has ever been allowed to go, or had to go lower than 85% !

 

I appreciate that!  I watched a nice video by @mrelwood last night in which he specifically addresses battery life.  I have some expertise in solar (designed & installed a 10kw system at a rural property) and learned a great deal about "best practices" in deep cycle FLA batteries.  Some people have begun using lithium packs, but the price is still a major flaw.  The advantage is the ability to safely do much deeper discharges than FLA batteries will tolerate.  Actually the "industrial" type of deep-cycle batteries are used in 48v forklifts that may use 60-80% each day, and still have a reasonable lifespan.  The system I installed has 1600AH of usable power, nominal 48v (24 cells, 2.2v at full charge = 52,8v).  Each cell weighs approximately 75kg, so including the steel cases that each hold 6 cells, the battery bank weighs about 1900kg!!!

The exploding Li battery pack videos are interesting.  The battery bank mentioned above has short jumpers that bolt between lead 'ears' on each sells.  I was careless in working on it once, and momentarily shorted a single cell.  It is impressive that even 2.2v is sufficient to weld a nut to a wrench!  A catastrophic short would be interesting to watch (at a distance) as the heat would be impressive!

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1 hour ago, OldSolo said:

If you are interested, I would be willing to remove a few of the exterior pieces of the A2 & weigh them, just to see how much they contribute.  I did weigh the original tire yesterday, it still has the little casting nubs on it & weighs 2075g.  These tubeless tires are far heavier than tires with tubes.  I did not weigh the Pirelli before mounting, it felt about the same.  The side pads are dense foam, so they likely contribute little weight & it would be hard to find something else.  I truly think that the construction of wheels have become more robust & so the weights you seek (and I confess it would be nice to have something >15kg) aren't going to be coming from manufacturers.

Most of that weight will be the metal case itself... Also that wide/fat rim.

And yes i know tubeless tires are normally 2x the weight of tubed ones. My original tire CST C-1488 18x2.5 was (~1050grams). New M/C tire K66 80/80-14 was (~2080grams).

Yes - robust build is awesome. But that is mostly needed for BIG/HEAVY wheels. Small wheel with all metal build isn't really needed! Will you be jumping, going off-road and doing things like that with small wheel? I think not.. Meaning that all metal build isn't really needed. Sure if it's built like tank - that's awesome. But at some point it's simply becomes TOO heavy! And metal in "LIGHTWEIGHT" isn't needed in first place.. Make only strong axle! Rest can be made out of tin can for what i care. (Or plastic.. Duh.. Nothing wrong with it.)

 

In last 3 years where i have been riding daily to work - i haven't dropped my wheel once!!! (Aside from winter some slides at slow speeds.) Still not a single crack anywhere in my plastic wheel! Just shows most people don't care about their property and go dropping their wheel.. If you do dumb shit like ride stairs, jump, drop wheel often, etc.. It all comes down to user and how harshly he uses the wheel. You wanted to feel cool - damaged your wheel because of your idioticity - Suck it up and now pay up!

 

 

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3 hours ago, Funky said:

Most of that weight will be the metal case itself... Also that wide/fat rim.

And yes i know tubeless tires are normally 2x the weight of tubed ones. My original tire CST C-1488 18x2.5 was (~1050grams). New M/C tire K66 80/80-14 was (~2080grams).

Yes - robust build is awesome. But that is mostly needed for BIG/HEAVY wheels. Small wheel with all metal build isn't really needed! Will you be jumping, going off-road and doing things like that with small wheel? I think not.. Meaning that all metal build isn't really needed. Sure if it's built like tank - that's awesome. But at some point it's simply becomes TOO heavy! And metal in "LIGHTWEIGHT" isn't needed in first place.. Make only strong axle! Rest can be made out of tin can for what i care. (Or plastic.. Duh.. Nothing wrong with it.)

 

In last 3 years where i have been riding daily to work - i haven't dropped my wheel once!!! (Aside from winter some slides at slow speeds.) Still not a single crack anywhere in my plastic wheel! Just shows most people don't care about their property and go dropping their wheel.. If you do dumb shit like ride stairs, jump, drop wheel often, etc.. It all comes down to user and how harshly he uses the wheel. You wanted to feel cool - damaged your wheel because of your idioticity - Suck it up and now pay up!

 

 

Interesting thoughts re: need for sturdy metal frame.  It would be interesting to play around with other materials.  Got a little experience building a fiberglass subwoofer into the spare tire space for my old Ford Excursion.  Since then I have done a lot of repair work using glass & either polyester resin or epoxy.  A composite backbone for a wheel seems feasible IF one is focused mostly on smooth road riding.  Given some of the 'engineering decisions' by Begode, I am also wondering if there is 'useless' weight elsewhere within the structure.

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On 10/25/2023 at 5:11 PM, Funky said:

And yes i know tubeless tires are normally 2x the weight of tubed ones. My original tire CST C-1488 18x2.5 was (~1050grams). New M/C tire K66 80/80-14 was (~2080grams).

You’re comparing a bicycle tire to a motorcycle tire though, not tubed vs tubeless. A few more weights for reference, all used:

C-1488 18x3 (tube type), 1355g

H666 18x3 (tube type), 1700g

C-186 2.75-14 (tube type ), 2141g

 

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59 minutes ago, mrelwood said:

 

You’re comparing a bicycle tire to a motorcycle tire though, not tubed vs tubeless. A few more weights for reference, all used:

C-1488 18x3 (tube type), 1355g

H666 18x3 (tube type), 1700g

C-186 2.75-14 (tube type ), 2141g

 

K66 is tubeless though.. Also more knobs - more weight, etc..

I was just making point that all tubeless tires are ~2x heavier than similar tubed, because more rubber is used on them.

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4 hours ago, Funky said:

I was just making point that all tubeless tires are ~2x heavier than similar tubed, because more rubber is used on them.

And I replied because there isn’t a slightest bit of truth in your claim. Check the weights in my post again. They are all non-tubeless tires, they all require a tube. Your K66 doesn’t weigh 4.3kg now does it?

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1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

And I replied because there isn’t a slightest bit of truth in your claim. Check the weights in my post again. They are all non-tubeless tires, they all require a tube. 

How there isn't a any bit of truth??? Tubed vs Tubeless.. Tubeless are made out of thicker rubber, more rubber used to make it. (Sidewalls thicker, etc..) Meaning all tubeless tires will be heavier than same size tubed ones.

Yes i saw your examples.. And i did mention that knobby will often be heavier than some slick thinner tire. (1488 vs 186)

 

I was just giving example of my own experience going from flimsy tubbed tire (More precise bike tire - as you mentioned) to tubeless M/C tire. A2 uses already tubeless originally - meaning it already has the heavier tire. I wasn't comparing different "non-tubed" tires.. I was only saying that all tubeless tires will be heavier than tubed ones.

1 hour ago, mrelwood said:

Your K66 doesn’t weigh 4.3kg now does it?

No it only weighs 2kg. And is same size as 18x2.5". Not an 3" - which is quit bigger.. I could imagine if i had 80/90-14 size K66, it would weight about ~2.3kg? Making it heavier than your examples... Meaning my point was true. That all tubeless tires will be heavier than some tubed ones. Especially if you going from "bike" tire to M/C.

(The 2x weight thing. It applied in my case..) Still tubeless always will be heavier. 

Let's not start a Tubeless vs Tubed tires post.. :whistling: No-one asked for it. :D 

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4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

Sure, tubeless tires probably average slightly heavier than tubed tires. But 2x?? Come on.

Well yes. BUT in my case from 1050grams to 2080grams is 2x. :D I weighted them both myself. (So there isn't any miscommunication - i was transferring from flimsy bicycle tire to M/C. And same time from tubed to tubeless.)

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Got my A2 yesterday, did 2 miles, was destabilized by the knobby tire but I guess my body will adapt itself after a certain distance. I will keep the knobby tire for now as winter is coming but might get a street tire for next Summer. I was also able to update the firmware (went from 01 to 11 - settings work now, have the 8 LED modes).

I’m sad that the Bluetooth connection does not stay alive while the wheel is charging (but OFF). I would have hope to see the battery level although the wheel is OFF. Do you think Begode could add this functionality ?

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32 minutes ago, Fogman said:

the Bluetooth connection does not stay alive while the wheel is charging (but OFF). I would have hope to see the battery level although the wheel is OFF.

My menten 4 does the same thing.  It’s the only wheel I have that I can’t monitor while charging. 😑 The A2 seems more or less like a larger model I’m sure it’s something to do with this lineup. I bet the mini m10 will be the same. 

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  • 1 month later...

Purchased an A2 for my wife to learn with me.  She was able to ride it on her own within 30 minutes yesterday!  I am new to EUCs and have learned quickly how much the PSI in the tires really affect the ride.  My V11 feels great at 32psi so I thought my Patton and A2 should be the same.... Rookie mistake.  I have 25psi in my Patton and 20psi in the A2 and they both feel and perform much better now.  Really love the A2!

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1 hour ago, Bigkidneys said:

Purchased an A2 for my wife to learn with me.  She was able to ride it on her own within 30 minutes yesterday!  I am new to EUCs and have learned quickly how much the PSI in the tires really affect the ride.  My V11 feels great at 32psi so I thought my Patton and A2 should be the same.... Rookie mistake.  I have 25psi in my Patton and 20psi in the A2 and they both feel and perform much better now.  Really love the A2!

Despite the need of some to badmouth this little wheel, I have been quite pleased with it as a learner myself.  I am pondering what I want to buy next, but won't get rid of my A2.  It has a lot of torque for a 1kw motor, and seems quite reliable.  I do wish it was lighter for toting around, but there isn't that much that can be done.  The evolution of wheels isn't just to larger, more powerful, etc, but even these entry type wheels are far more robust than prior models.  Glad to hear she picked it up easily!

Edit to add: I see you are just a few hours south of me.  Do you see many EUCs around your area?  I never saw one in person until I ordered mine!  I suspect that there might be a few around Birmingham, perhaps when Spring arrives I will take mine downtown & see what I see.

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10 minutes ago, OldSolo said:

Despite the need of some to badmouth this little wheel, I have been quite pleased with it as a learner myself.  I am pondering what I want to buy next, but won't get rid of my A2.  It has a lot of torque for a 1kw motor, and seems quite reliable.  I do wish it was lighter for toting around, but there isn't that much that can be done.  The evolution of wheels isn't just to larger, more powerful, etc, but even these entry type wheels are far more robust than prior models.  Glad to hear she picked it up easily!

Edit to add: I see you are just a few hours south of me.  Do you see many EUCs around your area?  I never saw one in person until I ordered mine!  I suspect that there might be a few around Birmingham, perhaps when Spring arrives I will take mine downtown & see what I see.

Man, I've only seen one here and they were moving fast so couldn't ask them.  Don't think I have the balls to take anything into traffic outside my neighborhood.  Not many trails here to ride so I have just a few options.  I love it though and haven't been bitten by something like this since I took up golf in 1996 lol.

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1 hour ago, Bigkidneys said:

Man, I've only seen one here and they were moving fast so couldn't ask them.  Don't think I have the balls to take anything into traffic outside my neighborhood.  Not many trails here to ride so I have just a few options.  I love it though and haven't been bitten by something like this since I took up golf in 1996 lol.

Having lived a LONG time, I have had a variety of 'addictive hobbies' over the decades!  I have written elsewhere that part of my getting into this is due to ankle fusion surgery 3 yrs ago which precludes my riding mountain (or road!) bikes.  MTBs were a serious obsession for > a decade, a very positive approach to 'mid-life issues'!  Then again, I confess I am awaiting an E-dirtbike with good suspension and a reasonably light weight - and reasonable cost!  Perhaps the Talaria Dragon will do it.  I have pondered picking up a KTM Freeride as dealers are blowing them out (<$7k) which is far closer to their actual worth.  There are a few issues that have put me off - and that area is on a steeper curve than EUCs are now.  Wheels like the Lynx show a true maturing of this market.  I am leaning towards a Commander Mini at the moment, it is hard to beat price-wise.  Not sure whether I would choose it or the Patton at the same price, but $$ leans me towards the mini.  Likely I will buy one in the next couple of months, and consider an E-dirtbike in another year or so ... If I don't get KILLED on my Husky TE449!

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