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Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh


Mango

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ah ok yea these photos put everything into perspective for me perfectly. i'm guessing even with those side cushions you still had some discomfort since you added the furniture padding stuff in addition to it. I think i'll be doing exactly what you've got going on in the stock pads set up. much appreciated !

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does anyone have any advice on how to remove the velcro from the body of the EUC and get the adhesive entirely off? i just realized i had velcro pieces with cutouts for the screw holes...so i wanna put those on instead of these that i cut out to avoid blocking the screws

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On 9/22/2023 at 3:02 PM, RhoadsNRoses82 said:

i'm wondering if maybe i just have the wrong mechanics in terms of how i'm standing on it or something since no one else is complaining about this. i'm 6'1" aroudn 195lb

I'm 6'4" 188lbs.  I had some bruising from the top edge after the first few outings.  I looked into top edge pads but before getting around to ordering them the bruising stopped.  Now after about 200 miles and working out a wider foot placement no discomfort anymore.  I do ride mostly pavement so it may be different for trails.

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By my experience 2V drop after i ride 400m with patton. This mean i have after 400m 3V margin into 127,5V?

How strong must be braking or downhill brake to create +3V i have no idea is this realy possible or only teoretical situation?

 

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29 minutes ago, DjPanJan said:

How strong must be braking or downhill brake to create +3V i have no idea is this realy possible or only teoretical situation?

It is easier than most people probably realize. If you set your display to show the voltage when riding then glance down at your voltage reading before and during braking, you’ll see that it doesn’t take hard braking to get +3V. Don’t try this at full charge, obviously.  

5 hours ago, Critzlez said:

fyi y'all, the patton BMS overvoltage protection is 127.5V, so if you have the first batch with the old BMS like me, it'll blow the board above that. I really hope LK can either supply everyone with a replacement board or batteries, or a permanent firmware fix and not just an alarm

Thanks for the heads up. 

Leaperkim’s current fix involves modifying the BMS boards by disabling the overvoltage protection, but this is quite laborious, requires tools most people don’t have, and so isn’t a plausible DIY fix for most owners.

Given the cost, it also seems unlikely to me that they’ll send out new battery packs to everyone. 

I think it may be possible to for LK to implement a fix at the MOSFET board level by utilizing the heat sink, although it would require them to deviate from design norms, may only work briefly to protect the FET board, and could compromise braking performance…definitely not the best solution.

Bottom line: unless/until LK takes a big financial hit on replacement battery packs, we just need to be very aware of the current situation and avoid descents and brake like a grandmother for the first part of every ride from a full charge.  Of course, this would still be the case after a fix and on any other wheel, just a bit less so. 

Edited by stizl
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The new firmware will also tiltback, set mine to 126 instead.

1 hour ago, Milordas said:

how you ever getting such voltages, as when fully charged and disconnecting charger, voltage sags imediatly

Try braking and you will find out.

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1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

The new firmware will also tiltback, set mine to 126 instead.

Tilt back to keep you from getting too much speed at high charge levels (to presumably reduce your need for heavy braking)? 

or…

tilt forward to keep you from over braking?  Ha. 

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2 hours ago, stizl said:

Tilt back to keep you from getting too much speed at high charge levels (to presumably reduce your need for heavy braking)? 

or…

tilt forward to keep you from over braking?  Ha. 

Over 126v it did a quiet steep continuous tiltback, continuous beeping (solid signal), the text FULL V displayed on the display, and it stayed that way for a little while even when stopping and stepping off, basically a "get the hell off" function.

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19 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Over 126v it did a quiet steep continuous tiltback, continuous beeping (solid signal), the text FULL V displayed on the display, and it stayed that way for a little while even when stopping and stepping off, basically a "get the hell off" function.

This makes me hesitate to update the FW. It sounds really annoying, but probably still less annoying than having to carry a 90lb wheel back home with a smoked board. 

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1 hour ago, stizl said:

This makes me hesitate to update the FW. It sounds really annoying, but probably still less annoying than having to carry a 90lb wheel back home with a smoked board. 

Isn't it worse than that. Doing this kind of cell damage (overcharging) can lead to battery fire in the future?

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33 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Isn't it worse than that. Doing this kind of cell damage (overcharging) can lead to battery fire in the future?

For sure it is worse…on most wheels.

Given the Patton’s unique combination of overvoltage protection on both the batteries and the controller (the root cause of the controller failures), the Patton may be the last wheel you have worry about overcharging on. It will smoke a controller well before overcharging the batteries, as the battery protection wins.

Glass half full :thumbup: , especially with the new FW that won’t let you fully charge or brake to the point of overcharge. Seriously though, if this FW solves the controller deaths, it may be an accidentally-born higher safety standard.  

Then the remaining question: is the wheel itself safe from you throwing it into a ditch after it beeps incessantly while aggressively tilting back when you try to ride it near full charge?

Edited by stizl
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2 hours ago, stizl said:

Then the remaining question: is the wheel itself safe from you throwing it into a ditch after it beeps incessantly while aggressively tilting back when you try to ride it near full charge?

I think this can happen. I almost lost it on my T3. But it is a good thing. After that experience, I never did it again. :) 

Personally, I would update the firmware. Battery fire is a hard no, as is losing my controller.

Edited by techyiam
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1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Personally, I would update the firmware. Battery fire is a hard no, as is is losing my controller.

I’m sold, I’ll update my firmware. Taking it easy for the first few minutes after a charge is waaaay better than smoking a controller and certainly better than any increased chance of fire any day.

Better safe than sorry, even for the type of people that ride EUCs.  I’ll think of it as a mandatory skills warm-up before a ride. 

Edited by stizl
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On 9/22/2023 at 10:25 PM, Edidas said:

I'm thinking of doing the same suron seat conversion for sherman S to patton as the front roll bar should fits the same with the customs hanger, think it will work?

https://youtu.be/NQRFTx4XNwI?si=U5XAYxG5B2C0P47I

So I tried the surron seat method and found a cheaper version that cost only $48 to make 😂

20230927_191853.jpg

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8 hours ago, Edidas said:

So I tried the surron seat method and found a cheaper version that cost only $48 to make 😂

20230927_191853.jpg

I can’t even tell them apart! Ha. 
image.jpeg.c2ff7998fda4ffd82760ef446502cf42.jpeg
 

Yours looks comfortable and more Patton-style…no curves. 

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20 hours ago, stizl said:

I’m sold, I’ll update my firmware. Taking it easy for the first few minutes after a charge is waaaay better than smoking a controller and certainly better than any increased chance of fire any day.

Better safe than sorry, even for the type of people that ride EUCs.  I’ll think of it as a mandatory skills warm-up before a ride. 

Biggest issue is that I live up a steep hill. My v11 can easily do it as it only does tiltback at 86v while full charge is 84v. My patton will always beep, even if I set the voltage alarm to 126v, and the headroom is only until 127.5v until cutout. It's wayy too slim of a margin

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5 hours ago, Critzlez said:

Biggest issue is that I live up a steep hill. My v11 can easily do it as it only does tiltback at 86v while full charge is 84v. My patton will always beep, even if I set the voltage alarm to 126v, and the headroom is only until 127.5v until cutout. It's wayy too slim of a margin

I feel your pain. I also live at the top of a steep hill, and it sucks to leave home without a full charge.

Maybe it’s time to splurge on one of those chargers that stops at 90% for times when rolling out from home…and of course often also do a full charge and balance. I’m hoping that there’s also a charger option out there that will let us charge to 95% or 98%. 

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9 minutes ago, stizl said:

I feel your pain. I also live at the top of a steep hill, and it sucks to leave home without a full charge.

Maybe it’s time to splurge on one of those chargers that stops at 90% for times when rolling out from home…and of course often also do a full charge and balance. I’m hoping that there’s also a charger option out there that will let us charge to 95% or 98%. 

Cheapest option is a hyper charger from either AliExpress, alien rides, or the Roger charger, where you can adjust voltage. They're often less expensive than the ones with a permanent voltage

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