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Begode Master 134V 2400WH Suspension


onkeldanuel

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1 minute ago, Aztek said:

Leashing oneself to an EUC is ridiculously dangerous idea which never cease to amaze me with it's absurdity. :)

My philosophy is, if somebody must take a fall, let the wheel do it, thank you very much.

Leashing yourself to the wheel in certain situations is completely harmless but will save the wheel.

2 minutes ago, Aztek said:

These are not supposed to be carried. Push it up stairs or whatever.

My scale says 40 kilograms wheel. That's a lot. Yesterday I found half of this is batteries.

It's not that difficult to carry, be mindful of the motor auto re-engage feature though if you use the lift button, don't carry it by the kickstand.

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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

OK, I have completed my Level 1 checks and found only the 5 minor faults....

1. Lower right padding ripped, almost in 2 - was wedged badly into transport box at some stage. Other 3 parts OK, but that is luck alone !

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2. 5 screws not exactly what I would call loose, but not exactly tight either !

3. Exposed rear light wiring - unbelievably flimsy gauge and no protection for it at all in the last inch where it's black outer wrap runs out !

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4. The same duff white rubber seals around MB box cover as we see in EcoDrift's teardown.

5. On first releasing transport lock NO SCREEN !!! But the front light worked ! However, following advice in this thread 3 second rocking when powered and a restart, and the screen was back again, and the lights remained !

Now, on the plus side...

1. Balancing works, so looks like we're in business !

2. Motor phase wires are all pull-resistant, and solid feeling, and seem to use thicker phase wires than I have seen in other photos !Ā 

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3. No trapped wires, satellite MB modules seem flat and solid.

4. Fit and finish honestly wasn't as bad as earlier versions of this wheel I have seen. No obvious damage to any parts. Here's the way they clipped the main motor bundle into its clasp... you can also see they skidded a drill across the headlight at some point !

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So yes, I think I am happy with that, and time will tell if I was thorough enough in my inspections !

Alas it got dark before I had time to do all my custom bits, pad her up, and ride so that's tomorrows adventure, but it's lookin' good so far !

I never thought an MS3 could feel like toytown, but that Master - it just OOZES power, heft and presence before you even turn it on !

I tried charging, to check the charger, which came on with a very weak and flickery green light, and never went red, but I presume that is because speedyfeet charged it for me prior to dispatch - certainly I am seeing full bars in the display.Ā 

As the hurdles to clear before first ride get fewer, I dare to allow myself a cautious but wickedly excited smile... I may just have got lucky again for the second time in a row with Gotway ! :D

Could you add a picture showing the writings on the boards? Like what is written on the motherboard?

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2 hours ago, Aztek said:

Could you add a picture showing the writings on the boards? Like what is written on the motherboard?

Dammit - I've put it back together now ! But I did take loads - let's see what we have... there's this one...

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Master 2 written on main Capacitors which seem... bigger than I have seen ?!

Ah nuts - the one I have that shows the writing on the mainboard is blurry - I'll get another one when I'm next in there...

Edit: Actually we see some further improvement over the Ecodrift Batch 3 teardown - his has the new plastic box we see above, but NOT the rubber grommets and black gunk combo in and out of it that I do - perhaps they tried harder to waterproof this bit ? They certainly didn't try harder anywhere else, but having seen it in person, and how tight that black screen cover is hunkered down, and that its margins are further covered by the seat, I'm not really worried about (light) rain getting in there; I just don't think it will !

Ā 

Edited by Cerbera
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Oh, 1 more funny thing - the compliance certificate that came in the box listed a whole load of specific models to which the claimed standards applied, and the master wasn't actually on that list !!! Lols. Yet my box was covered in border control re-seal tape, so they obviously hadn't noticed, having passed it regardless !

And I'll tell ya another thing ! It's a damn good job they fixed that trolley handle pop-up thing, because if you happen to be seated when that happens your crown jewels are in eminently mortal danger and perfectly positioned to get an eye-wateringĀ  thump from below from surprisingly strong springs in that handle !

Edited by Cerbera
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CBR's build tips no 245: Gotway's fake 3M tape really is double wank and shit chips.

If you are going to do what I am and replace it with a less permanent solution, don't try and put your sticky velcro on top of it - just pull all the original stuff out first - it won't be stuck down very well so isn't challenging to get out of there !

Ā 

Anybody got any tips for tightening up pedals - mine barely hold vertical, even with the tensioning grub screw as tight as I can get it !

Edited by Cerbera
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48 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Anybody got any tips for tightening up pedals - mine barely hold vertical, even with the tensioning grub screw as tight as I can get it !

weird, once you tight the 3rd side screw they are pretty solid and stay well in place

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1 hour ago, Cerbera said:

Anybody got any tips for tightening up pedals - mine barely hold vertical, even with the tensioning grub screw as tight as I can get it !

The side screw just locks the axle in place, but tightening the main pedal screws applies friction on the little plastic discs on the ends of the axle. Try tightening those a little more first, then the side screw last.

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8 minutes ago, redfoxdude said:

The side screw just locks the axle in place, but tightening the main pedal screws applies friction on the little plastic discs on the ends of the axle. Try tightening those a little more first, then the side screw last.

Good call - I'll try that !!

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5 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Tried to put it in the boot earlier. Dear GOD, no !! Immediately hired the services ofĀ this small dog, who I am reliably informed brings his own ramp !

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Rated for 140 KG, so the dog seems... unambitious :)

If I am lucky, when its not doing the car, it can bridge the 2 large steps down to my back door...

Ā 

Well, the trunk seems appropriate.

I can tell the wheel hardly enters a bmw sedan trunk.

Put something under it. The sharp edges of the pedal hangers damage whatever is under them.

Edited by Aztek
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Just to let you know - Speedyfeet really are the good guys - you know my RH pad arrived knackered / ripped (though still fully functional) ? - I mentioned it briefly to them in an email, and without me asking specifically, they couriered a new one to me, which is awesome service. Please buy your wheels from them :)

Edited by Cerbera
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4 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Oh, what a machine... you really don't fully appreciate it until you ride one do you ?!

happy for you, as i already said:

once you ride the master...:w00t2:

Edited by EMA
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I am worried about the inside surfaces of my battery packs, and there isn't enough clearance to do anything velcro-based ! So I am aluminium plating them, via this handy-as-you-like website where it is very easy to choose options and custom sizes. And so cheap ! For example - 1.2 mm aluminium satin anodised self adhesive is only 2 quid a go !

image.thumb.png.8974c1862405df47e9df39096611d80c.png

If we step up to something a bit more non-rusty, we can choose most of the 'deluxe' options and still get them for 7 quid a pop, or under 30 pounds the set !

I'm gonna do stainless steel 1.5 mm I reckon unless anyone wants to jump in and tell me what I could be doing better !

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Ā 

Link to site

BTW, those are the correct dimensions for the master packs allowing just under a cm at each end for screw clearance.

Here are my preferred options so far, which brings the cost Waaaay down to almost as cheap as aluminium !

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So that'll give us 1.2 mm of steel, then 1mm of plastic, then a 3mm foam pad (inside pack), 1mm plastic sheet, and then the blue wrap inside that.

I reckon that is adequate protection for any hits those packs might encounter from stones flying up as we ride the gravel paths...

Edited by Cerbera
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You may wish to consider further the attributes of 316 Stainless (Google difference between 304 and 316 stainless steel, or search for nema enclosures, where this is explained, sorry having difficulty pasting the info directly)

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You're probably right, but I'm afraid I got a little too itchy on the trigger finger, so 304 it is !Ā  I went with rounded corners as well in the end so there's 4 less things to cut me on installingĀ :)

Edited by Cerbera
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It should do fine as a protective layer against stones, etc, which is after all the main reason for fitting, I know for here around that given the amount of salt and grit spread on our roads in winter the 316 grade might suit better against outright corrosion, but then again - Iā€™m a long way from the East of Hampshire!

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