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Isn't acetone or WD40 used to remove thread lockers?

__________

 

Two Hall sensors, for redundancy. 

Is the rider notified when one fails and needs replacing?

Otherwise it might be just waiting for the second to fail as well.

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19 Jan 2023.

 

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Edited by Paul A
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On 3/6/2023 at 9:56 PM, pixelmajic said:

Here are the new V13 motor bolts I just received from eWheels. They do have lock-tight on the screws on the other side. The screw needs a 5mm hex.

New Bolts.jpg

I am confused. The new bolts are exactly the same as the old ones. I thought the angle was meant to be different?

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1 hour ago, A High Roller said:

The bolts from Eevee's shipped with what I believe to be blue locktite. I am assuming it is locktite.

I refer to it as blue "stuff". Locktite proper is an anaerobic adhesive, it 'glues' in the absence of O2, in the threads once they're squashed together. Stuff you put on and let dry before the fastener is assembled is something different, which doesn't make it better or worse. I've switched to stuff that has to dry for 24 hours before assembly—it holds better in vibration environments but can be undone without heat. They may have switched to something similar, or it might just be blue playdoh. (it's not playdoh… I'm pretty sure of that although I haven't tried eating it, nor do I intend to... all grown up now)

Edited by Tawpie
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8 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I thought the angle was meant to be different?

The angle is the same as the ones that you are taking out. The confusion was because the spec sheet called for a 90° bevel and the 90°US bolts that they were going to use to replace them has a different bevel than the originals and replacements so the 90° bevel on a Chinese bolt is a different 90° than an American made metric bolt apparently. The main concern was the hardness grade of the bolt. The new ones are supposed to be grade 12.5. And the torque spec is 18nm. I would torque in a cross bolt pattern.

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11 hours ago, Tawpie said:

Concerning using glue when reinstalling, I personally would do so—these bolts hold your wheel on, having them get loose is not a good thing under any circumstances

I don't bother using locktite or equivalent and have had no issues. There were no issues before locktite's days either. My logic is that there are x million cars on the road and no-one uses locktite on the bolts when changing a tyre. I do however check the bolts are tight when I get the car back from the garage after a few miles which is always recommended. 

 

12 hours ago, A High Roller said:

I'm gonna venture a guess that no, those two steps are optional. Let's find out!

 

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3 hours ago, The Brahan Seer said:

My logic is that there are x million cars on the road and no-one uses locktite on the bolts when changing a tyre.

The design of the lug nuts and lug bolts for car wheels are tried and true. The quality and thickness of the mounting area of the wheel, and hub are all proven designs. The design of the anti-lossening system using taper, or lock washers have been refined over many decades.

I think you are comparing apples to oranges here.

3 hours ago, The Brahan Seer said:

I do however check the bolts are tight when I get the car back from the garage after a few miles which is always recommended.

Typically the mechanic would blast on the lug nuts or bolts with an impact gun, and not in a star tightening sequence, and thus can warp your rotors. Typically, the bolts or nuts are on too tight. They do that because it is fast and easy to do.

The proper way to do it is by hand with a torque wrench. The high end specialty shops often get it right.

Edited by techyiam
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4 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

What are the consequences of leaving the washer off of the suspension? I can't figure out where they are supposed to go and they both fell off :smartass:20230308_194341.thumb.jpg.58eaee5ba5e5a9cd7d8c1faad8b70e6a.jpg

Someone responded it looked like the silver one in this time stamped video.  There is also a black one visible. 

 

 

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53 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

Man I am doing this all wrong the motor/wheel is back in the chassis but I don't see the suspension damper on top

I hope you have seen this video.

 

 

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At this point I have fully reassembled the wheel except the top cover. Idk if I am making it up or if its normal but there is a gap between the top cover and the side panels. it won't close no matter how tight I tighten the wood screws. Details like these are reasons that I wish for a longer tutorial video showing which screws go in which holes.

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5 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

At this point I have fully reassembled the wheel except the top cover. Idk if I am making it up or if its normal but there is a gap between the top cover and the side panels. it won't close no matter how tight I tighten the wood screws. Details like these are reasons that I wish for a longer tutorial video showing which screws go in which holes.

The long wood type thread screws go down from the top and the small Allen head screws go in from the sides. The cover should fit down snug before you screw it down otherwise there may be a wire out of place and you could be pinching it.  The headlight side goes in first push down just before the end and slide it in/down then the taillight side, then the four screws in the shock adjustment holes. If the side screws line up then you should be all the way down.

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1 hour ago, A High Roller said:

What are the consequences of leaving the washer off of the suspension?

I'm not exactly sure but if i were to guess, that washer is to hold the piston from rotating when you tighten down the screw, without it i would say you may not be able to tighten down the screw without the piston turning on the inside and it may result in the treads being stripped out of the rebound dampener if the screw loosens up during use. Just a guess though, i'm not an engineer.

If you are missing one, it looks like a simple metric lock washer that you could get at most hardware stores.

Edited by Punxatawneyjoe
afterthought
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On 3/8/2023 at 12:17 PM, 2disbetter said:

Thanks good to know. I went and set mine to 80% and it does seem to help. 

I think I read it here. I think maybe Marty or Roger from Socal said something like that. Or maybe it was Dawn. Still that was a couple of software versions ago, so I guess it could have been updated and now the advice is wrong. 

I am just happy to be able to accelerate beyond 70. Of course I couldn't really test right now, because it is raining nasty outside at the moment. I think I'm going through EUC withdrawl....

they set their pedal softness to maximum soft... speed dynamically gets reduced when your pedals are set under 50% for safety purposes.. the app at the time labeled pedal settings at "pedal softness" so they thought by setting it to 0%, it was maximum hardness... but that was not the case.. 0% is soft... 100% is hard.. I figured that one out btw... they didn't give me much credit.. but I suppose Dawn thanking me that she could finally go faster in a private message was good enough.. lol.

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2 hours ago, Forwardnbak said:

things are feeling really good 

Very good to hear, i knew you would love it. Very impressive, 158 miles already and maxed it out. Curious did you hit tilt back at 91? If so how was it? Like you described in the other thread for the low battery one?

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40 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Very good to hear, i knew you would love it. Very impressive, 158 miles already and maxed it out. Curious did you hit tilt back at 91? If so how was it? Like you described in the other thread for the low battery one?

I hadn’t even realised I had hit 91, I had no warning as far as I could tell at these speeds.

Normally, I have my speed alarms set up in Darknessbot or the old IM app at 5 below max. That way i’d get an idea when I was close. 

So far, DBOT won’t connect to my V13

IM app is a bit buggy and I can’t find where to set alarms yet in the new version. 

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4 hours ago, SquallLHeart said:

they set their pedal softness to maximum soft... speed dynamically gets reduced when your pedals are set under 50% for safety purposes.. the app at the time labeled pedal settings at "pedal softness" so they thought by setting it to 0%, it was maximum hardness... but that was not the case.. 0% is soft... 100% is hard.. I figured that one out btw... they didn't give me much credit.. but I suppose Dawn thanking me that she could finally go faster in a private message was good enough.. lol.

Ok, so I went out yesterday. I originally had pedal softness to 100% (for hard pedals), and then based on this thread turned on pedal assist, and set acceleration to 80%. Then I went out, and I just could barely get the wheel beyond 50 kph. I maxed at 60. I mean I had arms forward and was pushing down on my toes, just would not accelerate. But getting to 50 was like a bullet. 

So what am I doing wrong? The fastest I have ever had this wheel up to was 74 kph, and that was with pedal softness set to 100% and pedal assist off. 

But then the issue that I was describing with getting past 50 above was the issue I was having with 70. 

Is this EUC rider noob issues? 

And can someone just clearly say what the settings need to be set to in order to allow the fastest speed / acceleration on the wheel? 

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30 minutes ago, 2disbetter said:

So what am I doing wrong?

 

30 minutes ago, 2disbetter said:

I mean I had arms forward and was pushing down on my toes, just would not accelerate.

 

Don't push down with toes, it doesn't do much at all.

Just lean forwards as far as possible.

 

Inmotion V13 - Top Speed 56mph indicated, 50-51 GPS.

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Feb 11, 2023
 
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