Bob Eisenman Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 Don't laugh!! So.... I bought a new shell/handle/lights/charge port assembly from Jason and replaced the old blue'ish case with a new red one . Gorilla tape seals the battery compartment from rain water and holds foam padding in place where power off rolling causes contact of either the headlight or tail light to the ground. Following the shell replacement and creative repair approach I went for a good test ride. The old case with 8,000+ km had developed a huge crack along the shell mounting post area where the bolts are located. At this link are some of my pictures from my newbie process experience of undoing the parts/plugs glued to the control board. (random pictures and wire labeling schemes to assist in reassembly): https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1UU_yDokcI-rdVE1J482doEfDGw6-ERBG I discovered several other issues with the Monster as summarized here: ********Start repair notes***** Gotway Shell replacement observations and remedies: 1-one motor bullet connection (plastic case) had overheat damage to the plastic case. Removed fused plastic, bullet connector is ok, placed heat shrink tubing over the bullet connector. Connector is located in 'free space ' between the axle and the control board. 2-the right aluminum pedal upright shaft is turned slightly (from impact damage) giving the case a right shell/left shell misalignment to the aluminum columns. Each shell half was applied separately after shimming the control board side mount bolts. After shims added (with shell bolted) Before shims added (with shell bolted) Shims were used (experimental remedy) to correct the case alignment underneath where the shell bolts to the fixed pedal attachment column which extends from the axle to the pedal bolt. Skewed pedal in folded up position including shim correction for proper case mating with the tire and opposite shell handle: The axle (where the pedal column mount shaft attaches) may be bent since the aluminum column pedal shaft looks ok. Probably 'Gotway Dance’ impacts from a few bad dismounts, especially the broken pedal crash. 3-The rubbery silicon putty which was removed to disconnect the various plug was NOT replaced with new adhesive. These plugs with clip in type connectors hold in place ok without the adhesive. 4-the Monster axle shims on the MoBo (right) side now have a distinct looseness felt also seen as extra pedal/axle rotation flex. The shims on the other side have some play too. Replacing the shell with a new one containing all intact plastic screw mount posts and no shell-pedal column area cracks has accented the riders feel of axle shim looseness. Perhaps whatever the shim presses against in the axle is also deformed slightly. 5-battery cells have NOT charged (consistently) to 100% charge capacity since mid summer. One or more cells in one or both of the two 800 WHr battery packs is suspected. a-battery charged to about 78% 10-14-18 b-battery charged to about 77% 10-15-28 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 You can get Kafuter 704 RTV white silicone sealant on eBay for cheap. Vibration and unsupported/secured wiring can do some wiggly things over the miles. Why risK it over a $3 tube of silicone? They should use some sort of automotive/moped type weatherproof connectors that securely lock in place rather than rely on silicone goop. Oh well, maybe some day... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted October 16, 2018 Share Posted October 16, 2018 Very interesting, thanks! This is the first time I see this melted connector damage on a Monster, but it isn't too surprising. I have two of those on my ACM, and didn't bother to fix anything. It happens when the connectors get very hot AND touch something like the side panel or the heat sleeve like in your picture. Doesn't happen when they hang in free air. I guess then they would just get hotter and hotter until something else fails (motor wires melt or mosfet blows). If you happen to have a picture of your repair there, I'd like to see how that looks. Are you sure your axle is bent? Maybe it's the axle shims themselves that are not only loose, but also warped and create the misaligned pedal brackets. That would be the best case, no damage to the motor axle itself. One can hope... Does the wheel ride fine or is the misalignment a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 7 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Kafuter 704 RTV white silicone sealant Thanks....I read that some silicon sealants are conductive...and 'The Home Depot' a Ninebot One E+'s ride away had nothing similar. It ships from China. My order arrived by Nov5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: have two of those on my ACM, and didn't bother to fix anything. To replace the case shell halves the motor wires need to pass out of and back into the axle opening. 3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Doesn't happen when they hang in free air. Interesting 3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: picture of your repair A 3ish inch similar diameter heat shrink tube was passed over the connector and heat shrunk aboutban inch away from the connector location to keep it in place. 3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Are you sure your axle is bent? Fairly sure but can't say for certain.... The pedal mount column metal doesn't look to be bent or made of bendable metal. A flailing and extended pedal (Gotway dance walk off scenario) impacting the asphalt probably applies alot of torque to that mounting junction area. 3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: I guess then they would just get hotter and hotter Especially when hill climbing and not making adequate for forward progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 12 hours ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Vibration and unsupported/secured wiring The pristine and new plug connection has an interlocking design for some of the plugs. A front tab on the MoBo (female side) bends forward slightly to disengage the lock enough to wiggle it free. Definitely better to silicon coat the connection. Thanks again for the silicon brand type to buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 16, 2018 Author Share Posted October 16, 2018 3 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: This is the first time I see this melted connector damage on a Monster, but it isn't too surprising. I have two of those on my ACM, and didn't bother to fix anything. It happens when the connectors get very hot AND touch something like the side panel or the heat sleeve like in your picture. Doesn't happen when they hang in free air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 19, 2018 Share Posted October 19, 2018 On 10/16/2018 at 8:09 AM, Bob Eisenman said: Thanks....I read that some silicon sealants are conductive...and 'The Home Depot' a Ninebot One E+'s ride away had nothing similar. It ships from China. My order arrived by Nov5. We figured it out by watching some assembly and disassembly videos Gotway put out as to what they use, and the Kafuter stuff is OEM so hopefully it should be good. I got a tube, and there is no vinegar smell so it’s likely not the bad for electronics silicone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 19, 2018 Author Share Posted October 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: got a tube Two on the way. It's been in the forties (F) this week. City Sq. Park - Charlestown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 23, 2018 Author Share Posted October 23, 2018 140 km later: IMHO the axle shims need the Marty Backe remedy and maybe more. I think the pedal columns are brushing against the motor housing. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKgFxj7LwOHDHvAeCe6hFGx1J6cFtWdX/view?usp=drivesdk My 24 mm socket and 16 inch groove joint pliers ARE NOT going to work. An email to eWheels would be appropriate. This job will take skill, considerable muscle, correct tools, a good bench to work at and replacement parts access to attempt a better repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 Maybe a 1/2" drive long breaker bar would do the trick. Is that a 1/2" drive socket? I think @steve454 mentioned maybe a O2 sensor socket would work too. I think @Rehab1 made his own which he sent to Marty to use. The breaker bar is a godsend for removing tight bolts for brake jobs. I recently replaced the rotors and brake pads on one of my older vehicles, and it made taking them off a breeze. Leverage is the key! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 17 minutes ago, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Maybe a 1/2" drive long breaker bar or torque wrench would do the trick. Is that a 1/2" drive socket? I think @steve454 mentioned maybe a O2 sensor socket would work too. I think @Rehab1 made his own which he sent to Marty to use. The breaker bar is a godsend for removing tight bolts for brake jobs. I recently replaced the rotors and brake pads on one of my older vehicles, and it made taking them off a breeze. Leverage is the key! @Bob Eisenman Here is the socket I made for Marty. Once you determine the correct sized socket you can cut a number if slits in the side and then use a powerful Dremel to clean it up. Hunka is correct that leverage is the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve454 Posted October 23, 2018 Share Posted October 23, 2018 @Bob Eisenman I wonder if EUCNYC does that repair? http://www.euc.nyc/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 @Rehab1 Thanks...very helpful. I recognize the socket you used (24mm) as an 'impact' wrench socket. Softer to mill than chrome plated socket according to one web entry I read. The local Home Depot doesn't stick that large an impact socket. Also did your dremel cut the slots or another tool? That's one heck of a useful looking vice you have in your shop! Unfortunately I no longer own a vise. @steve454 I looked at that website too. Thanks. @Hunka Hunka Burning Love I saw one if those half inch socket sized bars in Home Depot! I sent eWheels an email. Waiting to see their response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted October 24, 2018 Share Posted October 24, 2018 5 hours ago, Bob Eisenman said: Thanks...very helpful. I recognize the socket you used (24mm) as an 'impact' wrench socket. Softer to mill than chrome plated socket according to one web entry I read. The local Home Depot doesn't stick that large an impact socket. Also did your dremel cut the slots or another tool? That's one heck of a useful looking vice you have in your shop! Unfortunately I no longer own a vice. A vise is necessary if you value your fingers. The vise depicted in the photo has some soft jaws attached to prevent marring of the socket while grinding. The individual veined slots were cut into the socket using a die grinder. I know some of these tools are not part of the average workshop. Sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 24, 2018 Author Share Posted October 24, 2018 3 hours ago, Rehab1 said: I know some of these tools are not part of the average workshop. thinking in terms of durable shell cases for EUCs the thought came to mind that a creative mind with 3d modeling skills from 3d scanned objects could create a rugged laminated plywood case shell by milling a stock piece of laminated wood into a hollowed out similar form. Transverse bolt holes in the handle could substitute and inset threaded brass plugs might replace existing 'screw into' points as needed. The bolt onto the pedal column might me a thin plywood strip applied (glued) to the cnc wood milled bolt on position. You know...the visual appeal of a laminated wood boat. The headlight, charge port, on-off and rear led strip would be the most challenging areas to design in the 3d object. Since my last tumble from a broken pedal wrenched my wrist quite a bit I'm enjoying the respite. Recurring knee discomfort from one or more EUC tumbles onto it have always limited my fun ride time from my take it easy for a day riding habits. Good luck with your new riding gear and thanks for the draft plan for creating an axle nut socket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 @Rehab1 Vise (spelled v-i-s-e ) can be purchased and grinder can be rented. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 On 10/23/2018 at 4:38 PM, Hunka Hunka Burning Love said: Maybe a 1/2" drive long breaker bar or torque wrench would do the trick The axle nut on the 'left' side (no motor wires) came off with a 15" breaker bar. The grinding noise I previously described as attributable to exterior scraping of the motor housing by the pedal volumn.: On 10/23/2018 at 2:50 PM, Bob Eisenman said: I think the pedal columns are brushing against the motor housing. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lKgFxj7LwOHDHvAeCe6hFGx1J6cFtWdX/view?usp=drivesdk is definitely NOT pedal columns rubbing against the motor exterior. Removing the motor-wherl-axle from the shim/pedal column assembly is a task I'll leave for another day since the shim/pedal column did not smoothly slip off the axle following removal of the 24 mm axle nut with the breaker bar. No motor scrapes on the motor housing exterior! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hunka Hunka Burning Love Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 I wonder if the two shims are keeping the pedal support from sliding off the axle. You might try take a small screwdriver and loosen them up? Maybe @Marty Backe can advise further as I've never removed a pedal support before so I'm going all by theory and what I've seen online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 15 hours ago, Bob Eisenman said: The axle nut on the 'left' side (no motor wires) came off with a 15" breaker bar. The grinding noise I previously described as attributable to exterior scraping of the motor housing by the pedal volumn.: is definitely NOT pedal columns rubbing against the motor exterior. Removing the motor-wherl-axle from the shim/pedal column assembly is a task I'll leave for another day since the shim/pedal column did not smoothly slip off the axle following removal of the 24 mm axle nut with the breaker bar. No motor scrapes on the motor housing exterior! Getting the nut off is the hard part (if it's hard). Wiggling the motor while the pedal hanger is secured will eventually loosen the shims and everything will disassemble from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 36 minutes ago, Marty Backe said: Wiggling the motor Yeah.....the shims sort of get hung up in the edges of the threads next to the milled flat faces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 The motor interior has no visible metal scrapings. Plastic posts separate each coil. One plastic post is dark but doesn't look problematic. the 3 sensors look good and attached in place. So...I'm going to try putting the motor cover back on as it was on this left side view of the EUC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 Wow you opened the motor? Curiosity? Make sure the brittle hall sensor wires don't get damaged when you close it again. The interesting question, is your axle bent/broken or not? Where does the skewed pedal come from? Axle, pedal brackets, or something with the shims? Respect for your repair efforts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Eisenman Posted October 26, 2018 Author Share Posted October 26, 2018 38 minutes ago, meepmeepmayer said: Wow you opened the motor? Curiosity? This is the easy left side. No special tools. It would have been better to leave the motor cover untouched. The motor cover is proving to be difficult to center with close tolerances between magnets an coil. No evidence of bent axle on this side. If I get the motor cover on and motor turnable by hand at the pedal columns I'll be happy to call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted October 26, 2018 Share Posted October 26, 2018 1 hour ago, Bob Eisenman said: The motor interior has no visible metal scrapings. Plastic posts separate each coil. One plastic post is dark but doesn't look problematic. the 3 sensors look good and attached in place. So...I'm going to try putting the motor cover back on as it was on this left side view of the EUC. Ooooh - opening the motor. Not sure I've seen the inside of the Monster motor, and I've yet to open a motor myself. Nice pictures, and thanks. Fortunately they are indeed simple inside, which is good for us. Less to go wrong. Good luck with your continued work, and keep us posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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