onewheelkoregro Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 12 minutes ago, Cerbera said: Hopefully so. And I suppose at least that is only a few days to wait with no riding... I fully empathize though - if I think my wheel is going to be down for a longer than a day I have great trouble not viewing that as a proper disaster ! But if you are tempted, just think how stressy and not fun the ride on a wheel you KNOW is compromised would actually be. I'd think worry would subsume any joy or utility you got from riding it now, and imagine how AWFUL you'd feel if you did ride it again, crashed again, took out the motherboard AND your collar bone in the crash only for a shiny new rim to arrive 2 days later so that it can sit there making you feel extra depressed that your wheel (and you) are broken in other ways that could have been easily foreseen and avoided by simply not riding for 2 days !! Thanks. All the damage isn't that bad. Any crash you walk away from, as they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) 1 hour ago, onewheelkoregro said: All the damage isn't that bad. I dunno dude - that elbow road rash looks pretty hurty to me ! I wonder if this sort of injury demonstrates the difference between a padded MC jacket and something like a Leatt body armour kit, which, provided it can be synched down well enough might have not moved, and thereby prevented that scuff. Having it physically attached to that grippy lycra elastic sleeve you get with this sort of thing, and the tightenable straps is quite helpful in keeping it in place under duress. When that car twatted me off my wheel a few months back I too slid on my elbows a little way, and one of the arm guards remained solidly in place (no injury at all) and the other one rotated around my arm leaving a small bit of elbow exposed, which got a very similar injury to yours ! So also not foolproof ! I've since got mum round with her sewing kit, to tighten my strappings !! Edited March 20 by Cerbera 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 17 minutes ago, Cerbera said: I dunno dude - that elbow road rash looks pretty hurty to me ! I wonder if this sort of injury demonstrates the difference between a padded MC jacket and something like a Leatt body armour kit, which, provided it can be synched down well enough might have not moved, and thereby prevented that scuff. Having it physically attached to that grippy lycra elastic sleeve you get with this sort of thing, and the tightenable straps is quite helpful in keeping it in place under duress. When that car twatted me off my wheel a few months back I too slid on my elbows a little way, and one of the arm guards remained solidly in place (no injury at all) and the other one rotated around my arm leaving a small bit of elbow exposed, which got a very similar injury to yours ! So also not foolproof ! I've since got mum round with her sewing kit, to tighten my strappings !! Nice. I wear something similar when it's warmer. Just glad that I'm OK and I'm going to be able to be riding by Saturday. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadpower Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 5 hours ago, onewheelkoregro said: God damnit. It rode fine home so I think I will just keep running it around 25 until a new rim gets here Or is this not safe to ride on? Wow, that was quite the smash. Perhaps the tire was a bit under inflated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpong Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 22 hours ago, onewheelkoregro said: Always wear your gear I slid like 3 feet on my face full scorpion. God damn potholes..... good thing you wore your gear. relax and recover. all in a day's ride,... take care and ride safe !!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 41 minutes ago, Roadpower said: Wow, that was quite the smash. Perhaps the tire was a bit under inflated? It used to be. Now I've been accustomed to riding with higher tire pressure. Around 35-40 psi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadpower Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 19 minutes ago, onewheelkoregro said: It used to be. Now I've been accustomed to riding with higher tire pressure. Around 35-40 psi You might want to experiment with where the PSI upper limit is for your comfort zone intersectioned with tire PSI recommendation. I know Jason at ewheels had a chart up for this ... I just looked it up. https://www.ewheels.com/guide-tires-appropriate-pressures-electric-unicycle/ I only say this because that wheel hit looks pretty brutal. Even if the tire PSI was at a upper limit I don't doubt that the wheel would have still taken damage, I just suspect it would have been less so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 1 hour ago, Roadpower said: You might want to experiment with where the PSI upper limit is for your comfort zone intersectioned with tire PSI recommendation. I know Jason at ewheels had a chart up for this ... I just looked it up. https://www.ewheels.com/guide-tires-appropriate-pressures-electric-unicycle/ I only say this because that wheel hit looks pretty brutal. Even if the tire PSI was at a upper limit I don't doubt that the wheel would have still taken damage, I just suspect it would have been less so. Less pothole, more crater. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpong Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 onewheelkoregro, by the sounds of it, you got bounced off yur wheel... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 38 minutes ago, bpong said: onewheelkoregro, by the sounds of it, you got bounced off yur wheel... I can't really say what happened, only from my perspective anyway, I hit the bump and was sliding on my face. Jumped up, checked myself, picked the wheel up, checked to see if it balanced then picked up my seat and the panel that popped off and just turned around and went home. There was a car that was waiting to turn but they took off as soon as I jumped up but they got a show at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpong Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 i see your injury to your forearm. the 2 times i got bounced off my wheel (i was not using pads when riding a non-suspended euc) i slid nicely along the bike path. the first gave me a raspberry much like yours but about twice as long - after that experience, i purchased some rawhide leather and sewed together a pair of nice leather braces for my forearms, with lacing. they work great ... if you have the time and patience, you should sew a pair...it will benefit you next time you take an unexpected dive. the only thing i really dislike about a sliding get off is that your clothes pretty much get destroyed. it always aggravates me thinking about losing about 120$ worth of clothes the 1st time i fell and slid - nowadays, most of my riding clothes are 2nd hand from value village. i never wear my nice clothes for riding... always put on a new dressing every day for the first few weeks of your scrape and always use polysporin (the paste, not the ointment) to reduce scarring. it will heal up pretty quick and you will barely see it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 2 hours ago, bpong said: i see your injury to your forearm. the 2 times i got bounced off my wheel (i was not using pads when riding a non-suspended euc) i slid nicely along the bike path. the first gave me a raspberry much like yours but about twice as long - after that experience, i purchased some rawhide leather and sewed together a pair of nice leather braces for my forearms, with lacing. they work great ... if you have the time and patience, you should sew a pair...it will benefit you next time you take an unexpected dive. the only thing i really dislike about a sliding get off is that your clothes pretty much get destroyed. it always aggravates me thinking about losing about 120$ worth of clothes the 1st time i fell and slid - nowadays, most of my riding clothes are 2nd hand from value village. i never wear my nice clothes for riding... always put on a new dressing every day for the first few weeks of your scrape and always use polysporin (the paste, not the ointment) to reduce scarring. it will heal up pretty quick and you will barely see it. The most expensive clothing I wear is my gear 😂. Usually just sweats or shorts and a t-shirt. But I get what your saying. Just glad I was able to walk away. Was going to do a tire change soon anyway because the tire was wearing down. This will be much easier just drop old one and put new one in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 (edited) Yeah, there is a lot to be said for sacrificial outer layers... and I quite like under-armour layers as well, for extra padding, if climate permits, which it usually does over here in the rain and the cold... Edited March 21 by Cerbera 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Thanks @Jason McNeil saved my weekend! Thought I was going to be out of commission for at least the rest of march 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 On 3/20/2024 at 3:52 PM, onewheelkoregro said: Less pothole, more crater. haha, that's my ride. moonscape craters. i can't imagine going 30-35mph. i'd be euc girl momentarily before i died. haha, 10-15mph can launched me off the pedals but fortunately i come back down on them sorta in the same foot position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerbera Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 1 hour ago, onewheelkoregro said: Thanks @Jason McNeil saved my weekend! Thought I was going to be out of commission for at least the rest of march Is that only 2 phase wires coming out of that motor ? I thought they all had 3 !? Or is that just begode's ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 3 minutes ago, Cerbera said: Is that only 2 phase wires coming out of that motor ? I thought they all had 3 !? Or is that just begode's ? the other's are on the other side. Begode and ExtremeBull only have one that comes into one side of the wheel. My Kingsong 16x was like this I can't really remember... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 1 hour ago, onewheelkoregro said: Thought I was going to be out of commission for at least the rest of march You may already know this but make sure you have the motor installed the correct way. Reversing the motor and the wheel will take off like a bat out of hell when you power it on. Note the orientation of the old motor when you remove it. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 1 minute ago, Paradox said: You may already know this but make sure you have the motor installed the correct way. Reversing the motor and the wheel will take off like a bat out of hell when you power it on. Note the orientation of the old motor when you remove it. I have watched all the teardown videos and I asked Jason at Ewheels I guess the "yellow" wire goes on the "right" side. I already partially disassembled the v12 so when the motor and rim get to my house tomorrow I can just throw it back together Saturday morning and go riding later that day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paradox Posted March 21 Share Posted March 21 10 minutes ago, onewheelkoregro said: the other's are on the other side. Begode and ExtremeBull only have one that comes into one side of the wheel. My Kingsong 16x was like this I can't really remember... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 5 minutes ago, Paradox said: I have seen this and hope I don't forget when I am putting it back together 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 1 hour ago, novazeus said: haha, that's my ride. moonscape craters. i can't imagine going 30-35mph. i'd be euc girl momentarily before i died. haha, 10-15mph can launched me off the pedals but fortunately i come back down on them sorta in the same foot position. I have hit many potholes and my pads are the only reason I wasn't launched off. This was different though... I literally didn't even have time to react was just sliding on my left arm and face before I knew what was happening. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 46 minutes ago, onewheelkoregro said: I have hit many potholes and my pads are the only reason I wasn't launched off. This was different though... I literally didn't even have time to react was just sliding on my left arm and face before I knew what was happening. yeah, the deadly holes for me out here are usually some burrowing animal and the top is covered in grass. a perfect landmine. if i get off my previously inspected and mown paths, i go real slow and that's why i love the lynx. it has that soft trails motorcycle like suspension, and the most torque off the line of any of my wheels. and i have just endless bowls out here. one dirt bowl after another. it's brutal. haha, i gotta be careful getting back on a v13 because i might fall off the front trying to get it going, hence the parts hou's making for me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted March 22 Share Posted March 22 (edited) I have taken the motor out of my V12 plenty of times. I also had the same rim damage as you. However, I only replaced the rim. The spare part rim for the V12 (HS) is wider and better made than the original. The hall sensor wire come up from the right side of the wheel. Green and Blue phase wires are from the left side. Since the phase wires are much thicker than the hall sensor wire, be mindful of its fragility. Before attempting to remove the rubber boot, spray 99% alcohol on the wires and boot. This will act as a lubricant, making it easier to thread the phase wires through the boot. What I do is not to disconnect any connectors by pulling just by the wires. I use a bent needle nose plier gripping the connector top, and lightly pull the wire too. I disconnect the blue, green then yellow phase wires. Then I pull out these phase wires out of the boot. Be careful with the hall sensor wire. Now that the hall sensor wire is the only thing left in the boot, it should be easy to remove it without subjecting it to any damage. I then immediately cover the exposed phase wire connectors in Saran Wrap (or whatever you have) and rubber band it to keep it secure (just try to keep all electrical contacts clean. I also clean the connectors just before I plug them back in on reassembly. Another subtle part is just before you pull out the motor. There is some sealant on the phase wires and hall sensor wire at the point where they go through the shell-hanger mount area. You should be mindful of this bond when pulling out the motor. Pulling out the motor is not straightforward. When you attempt to pull out the motor, you will find it is catching on something. Aside from making sure the phase wires are free, the shell has a very tight fit over the hangers. Do not use a lot of force to separate the two halves of the plastic shell. While working on pulling out the motor, you will swear that there isn't enough clearance to pull out the motor and so you would use a lot of force to separate the two half halves of the shell. Don't do it. There is enough clearance. But it has to be in exact alignment, and lightly separate the shell halves. What really helps is to spray some lubricant in pedal hanger location. After unscrewing the six bolts on each side, spray some lubricant like WD-40 or dish washing liquid water mixture, from below. When you get to this point and have trouble, let me know if you need help. When pulling out the motor, be mindful of the phase wires threading through the hole in the hanger mount area. This is where the phase wires and hall sensor wires insulation get damaged. The first step in pulling out the motor of a V12 is to remove the top pads, one on each side. Many videos suggest to use a prying tool. I learn the hard way that this will weaken and eventually break the fingers (plastic tabs). The pads can be removed without out prying tools. Stand the wheel up, with the euc on. Use yours fingers of both hands to press down on the bottom corner and adjacent area of the pads, one corner at a time. Then repeat the step at the other bottom corner. Then press down both corners and simultaneously lift up. If it doesn't unlatch, play with it a little, pressing down on the adjacent areas. Edited March 22 by techyiam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewheelkoregro Posted March 22 Author Share Posted March 22 11 hours ago, techyiam said: I have taken the motor out of my V12 plenty of times. I also had the same rim damage as you. However, I only replaced the rim. The spare part rim for the V12 (HS) is wider and better made than the original. The hall sensor wire come up from the right side of the wheel. Green and Blue phase wires are from the left side. Since the phase wires are much thicker than the hall sensor wire, be mindful of its fragility. Before attempting to remove the rubber boot, spray 99% alcohol on the wires and boot. This will act as a lubricant, making it easier to thread the phase wires through the boot. What I do is not to disconnect any connectors by pulling just by the wires. I use a bent needle nose plier gripping the connector top, and lightly pull the wire too. I disconnect the blue, green then yellow phase wires. Then I pull out these phase wires out of the boot. Be careful with the hall sensor wire. Now that the hall sensor wire is the only thing left in the boot, it should be easy to remove it without subjecting it to any damage. I then immediately cover the exposed phase wire connectors in Saran Wrap (or whatever you have) and rubber band it to keep it secure (just try to keep all electrical contacts clean. I also clean the connectors just before I plug them back in on reassembly. Another subtle part is just before you pull out the motor. There is some sealant on the phase wires and hall sensor wire at the point where the through the shell-hanger mount area. You should be mindful of this bond when pulling out the motor. Pulling out the motor is not straightforward. When you attempt to pull out the motor, you will find it is catching on something. Aside from making sure the phase wires are free, the shell has a very tight fit over the hangers. Do not use a lot of force to separate the two halves of the plastic shell. While working on pulling out the motor, you will swear that there isn't enough clearance to pull out the motor and so you would use a lot of force to separate the two half halves of the shell. Don't do it. There is enough clearance. But it has to be in exact alignment, and lightly separate the shell halves. What really helps is to spray some lubricant in pedal hanger location. After unscrewing the six bolts on each side, spray some lubricant like WD-40 or dish washing liquid water mixture, from below. When you get to this point and have trouble, let me know if you need help. When pulling out the motor, be mindful of the phase wires threading through the hole in the hanger mount area. This is where the phase wires and hall sensor wires insulation get damaged. The first step in pulling out the motor of a V12 is to remove the top pads, one on each side. Many videos suggest to use a prying tool. I learn the hard way that this will weaken and eventually break the fingers (plastic tabs). The pads can be removed without out prying tools. Stand the wheel up, with the euc on. Use yours fingers of both hands to press down on the bottom corner and adjacent area of the pads, one corner at a time. Then repeat the step at the other bottom corner. Then press down both corners and simultaneously lift up. If it doesn't unlatch, play with it a little, pressing down on the adjacent areas. I am going to do it probably 4 Saturday morning. Already took off the pedal hangers, and popped off the side panels. Looks fairly straight forward and ewheels sent me a new motor with rim and tire already installed so it is going to be pretty straightforward just swapping it out which is kind of a relief because I know how hard it is to seat diesel tires. We literally use explosive gas to set the bead. So I'm fairly confident this is going to go smoothly. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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