Veteran Patton 16" 126v 2220wh

[OliG]

9 hours ago, carlitos said:

Do you have a picture from a lower angle so that we can see how close the mudguard is to the tire?

 

Here are the picture. Hope it helps. 

[OliG]

10 hours ago, carlitos said:

Do you have a picture from a lower angle so that we can see how close the mudguard is to the tire?

 

And a second one

[carlitos]

1 hour ago, Freeforester said:

Check the motor casing to determine whether it is somehow rubbing on something internally, like the inside face of a slightly misaligned battery pack or one which has a poorly fitted back side (idk if this is even a possibility on the Patton, but it did occur on a very few ‘S’ models). If there isn’t any sign, good, but it sounds very much like a slight misalignment of the wheel resulting in either the tyre valve coming into contact with the inner surface,  this apparently only becomes audibly noticeable once rider weight is applied. Kevin at EUC UPGRADES made a video about it (pertaining to my own ‘S’) - turned out to be an easy fix.

Thanks. I found the video on YouTube. Will check it out after work.
Here it is for those curious

 

@OliG thanks for the pics. My mudguard is definitely way closer to the tire than yours. I guess that means I'll have to take the wheel apart to adjust it

Oh, well. Good excuse to ensure everything is tightened properly and get familiar/comfy with the wheel. *sigh* but I just wanted to ride. I haven't been waiting for two months for this haha.

[Rawnei]

8 hours ago, travsformation said:

Indeed (just received this from eWheels):

 

They also discuss implementing a software fix, which is still pending:

You can download the full QC report here (I have their permission to share this--love how transparent they are! I guess that comes with knowing you're doing things right)

 

 

Thanks for the information, this seems quite important but not many people know about it.

People could potentially fry their boards if they are not mindful of this.

[OliG]

1 hour ago, carlitos said:

Thanks. I found the video on YouTube. Will check it out after work.
Here it is for those curious

 

@OliG thanks for the pics. My mudguard is definitely way closer to the tire than yours. I guess that means I'll have to take the wheel apart to adjust it

Oh, well. Good excuse to ensure everything is tightened properly and get familiar/comfy with the wheel. *sigh* but I just wanted to ride. I haven't been waiting for two months for this haha.

Again I think you should first check tire pressure 😉. But maybe it will not be enough 

[travsformation]

6 hours ago, stizl said:

If you braked hard (50Amp rate) continuously for 10 seconds (and assume for the sake of argument that the regenerative braking was 100% efficient), then you would be braking for 10sec / [(60sec/min)*(60min/hr)] or 1/360th of an hour.  50Amp*hr/360 = 0.14Ah, which would produce (0.14Ah charge /600Ah capacity) 0.02% overcharge...which is likely negligible on the batteries for the brief period of time before you use that energy the next moment when you accelerate.

Which is preferable to frying the controller. 🙈😅

Thanks for crunching those numbers BTW! 

15 minutes ago, Rawnei said:

Thanks for the information, this seems quite important but not many people know about it.

People could potentially fry their boards if they are not mindful of this.

Yeah, this is mainly a problem if you live at the top of a hill. In which case, either don't charge to 100% (do so from time to time so the cells are balanced, though), or ride uphill to burn off a little battery before you set off downhill to avoid this scenario. 

I was in this situation when I was learning to ride (lived nearly at the top of a massive hill), and before I discovered this, I had an IM-V8 cut out on me going down a hill on 100% battery, causing me to butt-plant (not pleasant BTW), and the tips above prevented it from happening again. 

2 hours ago, Freeforester said:

Moral of story - Ride it, don’t ‘Stride’ it!

Hahaha I was about to say the same 😂

[carlitos]

1 hour ago, OliG said:

And a second one

Here is mine for comparison. Definitely way less margin.

[DjPanJan]

10 hours ago, travsformation said:

Indeed (just received this from eWheels):

 

They also discuss implementing a software fix, which is still pending:

You can download the full QC report here (I have their permission to share this--love how transparent they are! I guess that comes with knowing you're doing things right)

 

 

My patton have blue marking on knoby tire this mean is checked and OK? I buy 8/8/2023 In Ekolka.cz

[jimjam.nyc]

7 hours ago, techyiam said:

The best is not to generate the excessive electrical energy in the first place, since there is no load to accept it, due to the fact the battery is already fully charged. In order to generate high braking torque, you also need to dump high current onto a load (in this case nothing was available, since the only thing available was the battery and it was fully charged and protected). In order to push high current into a fully charged battery, wouldn't that imply it need to go over voltage?

The best situation is for the rider not put himself or herself in this scenario in the first place.

It was rider error. IMO, Wrongway should have taken full responsibility, instead of weakly taking blame, and sending a misleading message. He fried the controller board. Open and shut case. Because the battery was protected, in the future, there will be less of a chance for it to start a fire.

Manufacturers can't win. If they prevent the battery from being fully charged to the hilt during a recharging cycle, some owners will even bypass safety measures in order to do so. Manufacturers try to protect the battery, but riders will always find ways to abuse the wheel until something fails, and then blame the manufacturers.

I pretty much agree with this. I didn't think this was an actual problem. I was well aware of what happens if battery is topped off and you emergency brake. Wrongway kind of goes hot and cold often with his opinions on his vids.

I think begode regulates charge down 1 or 2 volts from 134, and people made a stink about loss of range. I think it's insane because I lose 1-2 volts off the top the second I start riding.

This did lead to videos and tutorials on how to bypass the charge protection, which I think is kind of dumb for 1 or 2 volts at the top end. I have a hard time believing it effects much. Probably more psychological than anything.

I think inmotion did the same on v13 And people got over it quick.

Patton does start a slow bleed after charging. It's about .1 or .2 per day until the battery gets down a bit.

I guess my question is if they remove the overcharge protection from the battery, will that effectively also remove that protection when charging the wheel. If so I would rather keep the bms as is.

 

 

[travsformation]

2 hours ago, DjPanJan said:

My patton have blue marking on knoby tire this mean is checked and OK? I buy 8/8/2023 In Ekolka.cz

If this pre-shipment inspection was carried out (presumably at LK's facilities) on 8/8/23, I think it's safe to assume that any wheels that left LK's facilities after 8/8/23 include these upgrades, and any units that left before then (probably) did not. If you bought yours in CZ on 8/8, it has to have left China before then, so wouldn't count on it having them. 

So it would be cautious to avoid hard braking / downhill regenerative braking with the battery at 100% charge.  Give it some ooomf at the start of your rides 😜

 

[OliG]

5 hours ago, carlitos said:

Here is mine for comparison. Definitely way less margin.

Yes indeed. And mudguard is not well aligned. And your tire seems not well inflated 😉

[travsformation]

 

OK, so I think the that the info from the recent QC inspection report calls for a brief PSA for clarification purposes and to prevent misunderstandings (and widespread panic) 😜

What the report found:

"LK has a major problem, where under full-charge & braking, the BMS goes into protection mode, which results in a surging current/voltage to the controller, & kills it.
Result: Because both the battery and the control board have overvoltage protection function, during emergency braking, when the motor's residual power returns, the battery is already fully charged and cannot return to the battery. The residual power returns to the control board, causing the control board to overload and burn out."

 

What has been done about it: 

"The factory has made modifications to the battery and removed its over current protection function, while still maintaining the over current protection function of the control board. This way, after emergency braking, the remaining electricity from the motor can enter the battery without causing damage to the control board."

 

LeaperKim are working on a firmware update to address this issue, but it's still in testing and not ready to be released.

 

Dates, batches and what we know:

 

• Since this info is from a pre-shipment QC inspection, wheels that shipped from China after 8/8/23 or afterwards have the BMS upgrade (over-current protection removed from the battery) that prevents the board from being fried when hard-braking at 100% battery. Today being Aug. 18, this means that this safety upgrade is present in the next batch of Pattons that will be for sale, which are due to arrive at European distributors at the very end of August, and at North American ones in early September. There is confirmation both from eWheels and from MyEwheel that the next batch they'll be selling include this safety upgrade. 

• Since we don't know the exact date when these changes were implemented (they could be prior to the report—I've reached out to eWheels for more info and will update this post as soon as I hear back from them), it would be incorrect to state that all previous wheels that have been sold/are on the street lack this upgrade. But to err on the side of caution, let's suppose they don't have this safety upgrade. So, what does this involve? 

 

• • When a battery pack is fully charged and we brake, regenerative braking generates an electrical current that the battery is unable to absorb (because it's full). This is a problem inherent in all EUCs; different manufacturers and different wheels deal with this issue in different ways: some will cut out, others may suffer damage to the controller or, in the worst case scenario, to the batteries (over-charge). In the case of the Patton, it's the controller that will fry. 
  • If in the time you've been riding, you've never burnt a board or ass-planted due to a cut-out while braking, that's a rough indicator of how much risk there is of you frying your board due to this particular issue. 😜

 

So, what to do in the meantime?

 

• • This is nothing to panic about. The precautions you should take to prevent controller damage are not exclusive to the Patton and apply to all EUCs:
  •  
    • When your EUC battery is at 100%, don't immediately start riding down a steep hill, or brake aggressively. Burn off a little energy first so you have a bit of margin.
    • If you live at the top of a hill (and your commute involves starting your ride downhill, for example), don't charge the wheel to 100%. There are smart chargers that will let you choose at what percentage you want the charge to stop. You can also buy a Smart Plug and program EUC World to stop the charge at the battery % of your choice (or you can monitor the charge and unplug the wheel manually). In any case, do charge to 100% every once in a while so the cells are balanced, to ensure proper battery operation and longevity. 
    • This is basic knowledge about how EUCs work that every EUC rider should be aware of, for his own safety. If you're new to EUCs, take the time to read through the pinned topics in general discussion and get to know the basics about batteries, care, maintenance, charging, etc. Your wheel (and personal safety) will thank you. 😊 

Follow the advice above and you'll be fine (in terms of this particular issue) 😜

More info as it becomes available 

 

Edited August 18, 2023 by travsformation

[OliG]

1 hour ago, travsformation said:

 

OK, so I think the that the info from the recent QC inspection report calls for a brief PSA for clarification purposes and to prevent misunderstandings (and widespread panic) 😜

What the report found:

"LK has a major problem, where under full-charge & braking, the BMS goes into protection mode, which results in a surging current/voltage to the controller, & kills it.
Result: Because both the battery and the control board have overvoltage protection function, during emergency braking, when the motor's residual power returns, the battery is already fully charged and cannot return to the battery. The residual power returns to the control board, causing the control board to overload and burn out."

 

What has been done about it: 

"The factory has made modifications to the battery and removed its over current protection function, while still maintaining the over current protection function of the control board. This way, after emergency braking, the remaining electricity from the motor can enter the battery without causing damage to the control board."

 

LeaperKim are working on a firmware update to address this issue, but it's still in testing and not ready to be released.

 

Dates, batches and what we know:

 

• Since this info is from a pre-shipment QC inspection, wheels that shipped from China after 8/8/23 or afterwards have the BMS upgrade (over-current protection removed from the battery) that prevents the board from being fried when hard-braking at 100% battery. Today being Aug. 18, this means that this safety upgrade is present in the next batch of Pattons that will be for sale, which are due to arrive at European distributors at the very end of August, and at North American ones in early September. There is confirmation both from eWheels and from MyEwheel that the next batch they'll be selling include this safety upgrade. 

• Since we don't know the exact date when these changes were implemented (they could be prior to the report—I've reached out to eWheels for more info and will update this post as soon as I hear back from them), it would be incorrect to state that all previous wheels that have been sold/are on the street lack this upgrade. But to err on the side of caution, let's suppose they don't have this safety upgrade. So, what does this involve? 

 

• • When a battery pack is fully charged and we brake, regenerative braking generates an electrical current that the battery is unable to absorb (because it's full). This is a problem inherent in all EUCs; different manufacturers and different wheels deal with this issue in different ways: some will cut out, others may suffer damage to the controller or, in the worst case scenario, to the batteries (over-charge). In the case of the Patton, it's the controller that will fry. 
  • If in the time you've been riding, you've never burnt a board or ass-planted due to a cut-out while braking, that's a rough indicator of how much risk there is of you frying your board due to this particular issue. 😜

 

So, what to do in the meantime?

 

• • This is nothing to panic about. The precautions you should take to prevent controller damage are not exclusive to the Patton and apply to all EUCs:
  •  
    • When your EUC battery is at 100%, don't immediately start riding down a steep hill, or brake aggressively. Burn off a little energy first so you have a bit of margin.
    • If you live at the top of a hill (and your commute involves starting your ride downhill, for example), don't charge the wheel to 100%. There are smart chargers that will let you choose at what percentage you want the charge to stop. You can also buy a Smart Plug and program EUC World to stop the charge at the battery % of your choice (or you can monitor the charge and unplug the wheel manually). In any case, do charge to 100% every once in a while so the cells are balanced, to ensure proper battery operation and longevity. 
    • This is basic knowledge about how EUCs work that every EUC rider should be aware of, for his own safety. If you're new to EUCs, take the time to read through the pinned topics in general discussion and get to know the basics about batteries, care, maintenance, charging, etc. Your wheel (and personal safety) will thank you. 😊 

Follow the advice above and you'll be fine (in terms of this particular issue) 😜

More info as it becomes available 

 

Excellent summary. 
 

I’m riding mine fully charged since the beginning (mid-may, 2000 km on it) and no issue, so I confirm following this advice you will not fry your board. 

Edited August 18, 2023 by OliG

[Critzlez]

13 hours ago, stizl said:

Assuming that you didn't get up to speed on flat ground then brake (in which case @jimjam.nyc's comment about putting more in than taken out would apply), but instead you started from full charge at the top of a hill and had to brake down the hill, then you'd potentially have an overcharge condition.  Practically, this would have to be a significant hill to really cause a problem with a well-designed system. 

Proper calculations would factor in potential energy gain from descending the hill (gravity), minus energy used for balancing, controls, display, lighting, friction losses, etc., but a rough back-of-the-envelope example may suffice.  There are many ways to approach this, but using Amp-hrs here (a unit of charge), as many of us have probably seen the "max current" value on the EUC World, Darkness Bot, or manufacturer's app after a ride. 

For the Patton with 120 (4p x 30s) 50E cells with ~5 Amp-hrs each (or 5,000 mAh), the total available charge is 120x5Ah or 600 Amp-hrs.  If you braked hard (50Amp rate) continuously for 10 seconds (and assume for the sake of argument that the regenerative braking was 100% efficient), then you would be braking for 10sec / [(60sec/min)*(60min/hr)] or 1/360th of an hour.  50Amp*hr/360 = 0.14Ah, which would produce (0.14Ah charge /600Ah capacity) 0.02% overcharge...which is likely negligible on the batteries for the brief period of time before you use that energy the next moment when you accelerate.  Unless you live on top of a mountain, this should be a non-issue. 

These controller board failures are from the design flaw of sending that 50A into the controller instead of the batteries.  The controller has no means of dissipating that much energy.  If the energy has to go somewhere, the batteries are a much better place than the controller, unless the controller is specifically designed to dissipate that energy via a heat sink, which would have to be enormous to continuously sink 50A.  On the other hand, it would make a great toaster. 

Your math is wrong. Amp hours in series don’t  multiply. The total amp hours is 5Ah*4p, being 20Ah, so it’d be .7% overcharge

On 8/16/2023 at 7:27 PM, Rollin-on-1 said:

I love the H666...on my 16x.  I don't think it will work on the Patton.  The ChaoYang H626 is good on the Patton.  It doesn't train track as much as H666, and it leans in a little more on turns at sub 30 mph.   Of the tires shown in the picture you posted only 2 are for the Patton, and I would probably avoid both.  

I disagree. Any tire is fine. I tried the cst-1773 and it felt similar to the zx tire from alien rides. All of these will perform similar to each other. 

 

 

 

Also, I have the clonking sounds as well but i also have suspected it was the battery wire fuses. Someone said in the fb group that they added foam to the battery and the sound didn’t disappear. I also had a suspension clamp thread hole get stripped. But after 1500 miles, these are the only issues i had. And i charge 100% and live on top of a hill, but i am careful when braking

However, i think the best firmware fix would have it beep and tilt back when it is overcharging. ewheels have told me they are sending a representative there to meet with them and there are multiple solutions in the works

Edited August 18, 2023 by Critzlez

[techyiam]

3 hours ago, travsformation said:

When a battery pack is fully charged and we brake, regenerative braking generates an electrical current that the battery is unable to absorb (because it's full). This is a problem inherent in all EUCs; different manufacturers and different wheels deal with this issue in different ways: some will cut out, others may suffer damage to the controller or, in the worst case scenario, to the batteries (over-charge). In the case of the Patton, it's the controller that will fry. 

I am not following the logic of the fix.

If the battery is truly fully charged, how can Leaper Kim dump the electrical energy into the battery packs without over-voltage charging?

Why would over-voltage charging the battery packs not the worst case scenario? This can lead to lithium battery fires.

I live on top of a hill. If I charge my Begode T3 until the charge light turn green, and repeatedly plug back the charger for a couple of hours, with a few hours rest in between to do cell balance, and I ride as slowly down the hill, by the time I am near the bottom of the hill, the wheel will start tilting back gradually more and more until I lose balance and fall off. If I ride fast and brake super hard, I would be an idiot.

The best scenario is not to charge fully, and brake super hard. Lithium fires are no joke.

If a BMS allows over-voltage charging, how does it comply with CPSC safety regulations? 

[Rawnei]

The software fix would be to beep as to alert about overvoltage and then cut the motor, hopefully with enough time between them so the rider can react.

[travsformation]

23 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I am not following the logic of the fix.

If the battery is truly fully charged, how can Leaper Kim dump the electrical energy into the battery packs without over-voltage charging?

Check out @stizl's excellent comment:  

15 hours ago, stizl said:

For the Patton with 120 (4p x 30s) 50E cells with ~5 Amp-hrs each (or 5,000 mAh), the total available charge is 120x5Ah or 600 Amp-hrs.  If you braked hard (50Amp rate) continuously for 10 seconds (and assume for the sake of argument that the regenerative braking was 100% efficient), then you would be braking for 10sec / [(60sec/min)*(60min/hr)] or 1/360th of an hour.  50Amp*hr/360 = 0.14Ah, which would produce (0.14Ah charge /600Ah capacity) 0.02% overcharge...which is likely negligible on the batteries for the brief period of time before you use that energy the next moment when you accelerate.  Unless you live on top of a mountain, this should be a non-issue. 

As to this:

24 minutes ago, techyiam said:

Why would over-voltage charging the battery packs not the worst case scenario? This can lead to lithium battery fires.

Over-current to the batteries is the worst option. If there isn't enough headroom and the over-charge were big enough and sustained enough.

26 minutes ago, techyiam said:

I live on top of a hill. If I charge my Begode T3 until the charge light turn green, and repeatedly plug back the charger for a couple of hours, with a few hours rest in between to do cell balance, and I ride as slowly down the hill, by the time I am near the bottom of the hill, the wheel will start tilting back gradually more and more until I lose balance and fall off. 

What you're doing is not advisable AT ALL. If the wheel is tilting back (especially to the point of becoming unrideable), it's telling you to stop, that you're getting close to the "I-can't-absorb-more-energy" point. 

Depending on how long and steep the hill is, I'd advise you stop charging at 90% as a rule of thumb. Once every few charges, do charge it to 100% so you can balance the cells. Then maybe ride it a couple of times around your house, yard, or up and down the hall before going down the hill. 

30 minutes ago, techyiam said:

If I ride fast and brake super hard, I would be an idiot.

Super fast & hard isn't the only way things can go wrong. A lower but sustained amount of regen can have the same effect; I've had an IM-V8 cut out on me doing exactly that. And these things are relative...if you floor it all the way down the hill and happen to use more energy than you generate later, when braking, you'll also be fine. But since we don't have the exact numbers here, the safest thing to do is to not charge the wheel to 100%. Or do so when at a friend's, at work—anywhere where your ride doesn't start with a hill descent.

[stizl]

10 hours ago, Critzlez said:

Your math is wrong. Amp hours in series don’t  multiply. The total amp hours is 5Ah*4p, being 20Ah, so it’d be .7% overcharge

I didn't multiply them in series, but I did add them.  Total stored power in series (or parallel) does add, but Ah is at a given voltage, so yes, it is 600Ah total capacity (starting) at 4.2V or 20Ah from 126V.  Good catch. 

Edited August 19, 2023 by stizl

[carlitos]

17 hours ago, OliG said:

Yes indeed. And mudguard is not well aligned. And your tire seems not well inflated 😉

I just pumped it up to 2.3 and 2.5bar (35 and 38psi) and the noise is not as dramatic as in the video but it's still there. So I don't think pumping it even further is going to make it going away completely and it'll also make for a less pleasant ride.

On 8/16/2023 at 4:31 PM, jimjam.nyc said:

 I have 1 tiny gripe.. and 1 word of caution.

Gripe.. my mudguard in front is now slight off center.. No big deal.. Its just annoying this happens.. I see this happens on sherman s as well.. Not sure if there is any way to avoid that

It happens even to the manufacturer. I'm planning to take the wheel apart to fix this issue.

I know you said you're not sure if there is any way to avoid that but do you know if it's possible to lift the mudguard ever so slightly even? I think I need 3-5mm of play room to make it right like @OliG 's wheel and get rid of that noise.

[travsformation]

I heard back from eWheels. 

Quote

 

In terms of a plan of attack, I've been working on a campaign on several simultaneous fronts:

1) 4A/126V charger with partial charge capability

2) Pushing LK to provide a FW update that allows partial charge setting from the display

3) LK has their own notion of adding an alarm

4) Sourcing the components to make this modification for those willing to take it on

5) Working with a few of my repair contacts who can perform this operation in batches for those especially concerned.

 

This talk of partial charging is forcibly to compensate for the issue that arises, in terms of charging the battery, from removing the overcurrent protection from the battery packs. I inquired a little further and was told:

Quote

 

There's no magical solution, since the energy has to go somewhere. With this equipment, even when fully charged, there's always some energy buffer in the packs, the operating assumption is that the amount of energy being put back in, is less than the starting position, unless someone lives on the top of a tall hill.

 

Partial charging capability on the charger is a good tradeoff between the options.

 

So...draw your own conclusions, I have as many questions as you do 🤷‍♂️😅

I wonder what happens if someone receives a "corrected" batch (where the overcurrent protection has been removed from the batteries) but a stock charger, with no partial charging regulation? 'Cause eWheels are on top of things and really do look out for their customers but other sellers, not so much....and in those cases...pending a FW update from LK, I'm not sure this is preferable to the original "problem" for anyone who's not living at the top of a mountain. I guess we'll just have to wait to find out...

Edited August 19, 2023 by travsformation

[OliG]

4 hours ago, carlitos said:

I just pumped it up to 2.3 and 2.5bar (35 and 38psi) and the noise is not as dramatic as in the video but it's still there. So I don't think pumping it even further is going to make it going away completely and it'll also make for a less pleasant ride.

It happens even to the manufacturer. I'm planning to take the wheel apart to fix this issue.

I know you said you're not sure if there is any way to avoid that but do you know if it's possible to lift the mudguard ever so slightly even? I think I need 3-5mm of play room to make it right like @OliG 's wheel and get rid of that noise.

Ok. If you inflated the tire to 2.3 bars it should be enough. 
 

Now the point is to better align the mudguard and check if something push on it (motor cable for example). 
 

if nothing push on the mudguard then you have to take the wheel appart. 
 

Good luck. 

[jimjam.nyc]

4 hours ago, carlitos said:

I know you said you're not sure if there is any way to avoid that but do you know if it's possible to lift the mudguard ever so slightly even? I think I need 3-5mm of play room to make it right like @OliG 's wheel and get rid of that noise.

I am not sure. There are 2 long screws that hold the Mudgard in place. Where they screw into is a fixed location.

What you can do is reduce or increase tension on those screws. The plastic that holds it all is very flimsy and tension on those screws does change its position slightly. So you may be able to fix it

[jimjam.nyc]

So as far as the small "clunk" sound in the first 2mm travel of the suspension.. I def think its "normal"

I dont know where it actually comes from.. but i believe 98% it comes from inside the actual shocks. I turned my wheel upside down and pushed on the motor to make the suspension travel to rule out any battery or battery plug noises. The clunk was still there. I did not notice any play in the clamps, axl, or motor bolt area.. So it almost certainly comes from something inside of the fastace shocks.. I am going to move on and not worry so much about it. I guess it really is a feature.. lol

[carlitos]

@jimjam.nyc what clunk? Did you upload the video anywhere for us to see/hear?

[jimjam.nyc]

27 minutes ago, carlitos said:

@jimjam.nyc what clunk? Did you upload the video anywhere for us to see/hear?

There are a few videos already out there.. From sherman S and Patton. It a small "clunk" when the suspension has minor travel on uneven ground and small bumps. Its very minor. The convo I think started because some people had some small movement in the battery cases with ill fitted battery packs.. So the worry was this clunk was the battery packs bouncing around a little.. Turns out it is not that, and seems to be normal behavior.

Edit: its actually such a small deal that on my stock tire at 23psi I barely noticed it happening. Once I put a stiffer tire on is when I noticed it happening a lot more. It really is a very tiny nit picky thing that was more of a curiosity than an actual bother.

Edited August 19, 2023 by jimjam.nyc