Inmotion V13 Speculation

[SquallLHeart]

44 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I'm gonna try it, although it might damage things even more, I need to ride this wheel TODAY. On the right side it's not moving at all, but the left I can hold the piston while turning the nut. I am in Deer Valley in Phoenix. If I can't get it working by next week then I will take it to Neltrek in Tucson.

Neltrek should be able to help ya.

[Forwardnbak]

who has the best run down on the dampener system yet? 

Mine seemed to have a different tension on both sides.

From memory, I turned lightly clockwise until they both seemed to stop. I then bounced the wheel, I then turned once or twice full rotation anticlockwise mirroring both sides. 

I did some stairs and a little drop yesterday it still feels a little stiff.

I also have 200in the air shock

I will reduce air shock a little and see how that plays. 

Trial and error here 

Edited March 10, 2023 by Forwardnbak

[Josiah]

Good morning, 

 

We shipped out the replacement V13 M5 bolts last week. If you have not received them, please let us know & we'll get those processed. These new/replacement bolts have been tested against the originals, yielding a >25% increase in tensile strength. 

 

It's highly recommended to perform this procedure as soon as possible, since the risk of failure increases over time. 

 

Inmotion has just released this tutorial guide, but it lacks some specifics about the tools & techniques required, such as the removing the end caps on the suspension.

https://youtu.be/9W4MI1iS17w

 

Tool list:

- Philips screwdriver: for the panels

- Metric M3 bit: trolley handle, damper cover screws, top-cover side bolts, damper bolts 

- Metric M4 bit: front/rear handle, motor phase wires

- Metric M5 bit, for the replacement motor bolts. If you have a torque wrench, these need to be tightened down to 18Nm/13.3ft-lb for force

- 21mm socket: for the bottom end suspension caps 

 

 

 

 

Additional notes:

1) Please ensure that the motor orientation is reinstalled in this position: blue wire & hall cables on the left side. 

 

2) There are 2x lock washers that need to be reinstalled on the suspension shocks, left-rear & front-right

 

3) The M3 damper bolts have small washers on them as well, see below

 

Additionally, Inmotion recommends *not* using a screwdriver for adjusting the rebound screw, owing to the risk of breaking the thin metal shaft. 

 IM V13 Rebound Shock Adjustment.mp4

If you run into any issues, or have any questions about performing this operation, please let us know. 

 

Thank you & have great day,

 

Jason 

Email from Jason and his crew at Ewheels

Edited March 10, 2023 by Josiah

[Forwardnbak]

17 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Good morning, 

 

We shipped out the replacement V13 M5 bolts last week. If you have not received them, please let us know & we'll get those processed. These new/replacement bolts have been tested against the originals, yielding a >25% increase in tensile strength. 

 

It's highly recommended to perform this procedure as soon as possible, since the risk of failure increases over time. 

 

Inmotion has just released this tutorial guide, but it lacks some specifics about the tools & techniques required, such as the removing the end caps on the suspension.

https://youtu.be/9W4MI1iS17w

 

Tool list:

- Philips screwdriver: for the panels

- Metric M3 bit: trolley handle, damper cover screws, top-cover side bolts, damper bolts 

- Metric M4 bit: front/rear handle, motor phase wires

- Metric M5 bit, for the replacement motor bolts. If you have a torque wrench, these need to be tightened down to 18Nm/13.3ft-lb for force

- 21mm socket: for the bottom end suspension caps 

 

 

 

 

Additional notes:

1) Please ensure that the motor orientation is reinstalled in this position: blue wire & hall cables on the left side. 

 

2) There are 2x lock washers that need to be reinstalled on the suspension shocks, left-rear & front-right

 

3) The M3 damper bolts have small washers on them as well, see below

 

Additionally, Inmotion recommends *not* using a screwdriver for adjusting the rebound screw, owing to the risk of breaking the thin metal shaft. 

 IM V13 Rebound Shock Adjustment.mp4

If you run into any issues, or have any questions about performing this operation, please let us know. 

 

Thank you & have great day,

 

Jason 

Email from Jason and his crew at Ewheels

great!

yes i was weary of using a screwdriver and found finger tight i could feel what I needed and twist the tool no problem. 

[A High Roller]

24 minutes ago, Josiah said:

 

I am going to have nightmares about this picture. Breaking your own wheel is worse than breaking your own bones.

[Josiah]

13 minutes ago, A High Roller said:

I am going to have nightmares about this picture. Breaking your own wheel is worse than breaking your own bones.

I feel your pain I’m in a similar boat with my wheel.  Will be replacing the battery #1 Sunday or Monday.  Probably motor bolt at the same time.  Different tare down procedure though.  Im a handyman but not a mechanic so I’ll need to get some new skills.

Edited March 10, 2023 by Josiah

[Forwardnbak]

10 minutes ago, Josiah said:

I feel your pain I’m in a similar boat with my wheel.  Will be replacing the battery #1 Sunday or Monday.  Probably motor bolt at the same time.  Different tare down procedure though.  Im a handyman but not a mechanic so I’ll need to get some new skills.

Man i’m so sorry for your luck Josiah, I really  understand your anxiety. I feel the same doing anything with my wheel and would much rather break three bones instead. 

I will admire you even more once you complete this - GLUCK

[Tawpie]

5 hours ago, Josiah said:

owing to the risk of breaking the thin metal shaft.

Must be some weird "metal" for twisting to break a shaft. They probably mean that something that the metal shaft used to attach to something else breaks at the attachment point.

[InfiniteWheelie]

15 hours ago, sWiFt said:

Because coming back from that slack requires extra juice. 

Why would it need to "come back"?

Can't it just allow slack until it reaches a certain angle, then become hard? For example between 0 to 5° for accel assist, and 0 to -5° for brake assist... Meaning between -5 and 5° there's slack, but hits hard mode at either end.

In this scenario I can't think of any reason that maximum speed would need to be reduced. That would be like saying a forward pedal setting reduces top speed, which it doesn't.

Edited March 11, 2023 by InfiniteWheelie

[HEC]

15 hours ago, Josiah said:

Will be replacing the battery #1 Sunday or Monday.  Probably motor bolt at the same time.  Different tare down procedure though.  Im a handyman but not a mechanic so I’ll need to get some new skills.

I'm glad to hear that you'll replacing the troublesome battery pack, I personally wouldn't feel safe riding with it. V13 is very easy to take apart and reassemble comparing to basically any other current wheel, so I'm sure that with bit of attention you'll manage to swap both the bolts as well as the battery pack without problems. Good luck. 

[sWiFt]

7 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Why would it need to "come back"?

To qualify as self balancing.

7 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Can't it just allow slack until it reaches a certain angle, then become hard? For example between 0 to 5° for accel assist, and 0 to -5° for brake assist... Meaning between -5 and 5° there's slack, but hits hard mode at either end.

Im thinking this would give a soggy or laggy feeling in the response. Perhaps some more fine grained settings will become available as the needs of the community increase.

7 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

In this scenario I can't think of any reason that maximum speed would need to be reduced. That would be like saying a forward pedal setting reduces top speed, which it doesn't.

If the forward setting increases your leverage in control, it translates to an inceased demand on the wheel. Comparable to like how a set of power pads wont change the performance of the wheel, but rather let you tap into it, which stress the wheel more.

With a softness setting allowing for a slower reaction to you falling off, it will also need more power to then correct the bigger imbalance that the "slower" setting allowed for.

[mrelwood]

 

17 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

Can't it just allow slack until it reaches a certain angle, then become hard? For example between 0 to 5° for accel assist, and 0 to -5° for brake assist... Meaning between -5 and 5° there's slack, but hits hard mode at either end.

I think that’s how softer modes do work, as a general framework.

17 hours ago, InfiniteWheelie said:

In this scenario I can't think of any reason that maximum speed would need to be reduced.

Situations like sudden bumps at steady speed end up with a steeper forward lean with softer modes, since the wheel doesn’t react instantly to the forward lean. And since softer modes do some of the acceleration effort on the riders behalf, it’s easier to get into an overly strong lean.

 Softer modes are also less stable, which I can imagine to feel iffy at high speeds.

 What might work well is a ride mode option that would stiffen the ride mode as the speed gets higher. That would give you a softer mode at low speeds, but it would continuously turn into medium between 30 and 50km/h, and to hard between 50 and 80km/h.

[Josiah]

Going for it.  Battery pack due to arrive tomorrow.  Don’t have all the best tools with me today but have a decent setup for the job.

I’ll change the bolts now and be prepped for the battery swap tomorrow. Leaving the wheel disassembled over night.  I might do the the bolt change procedure today reassemble the wheel and tare back down tomorrow the separate procedure for the pack change.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

9 minutes ago, Josiah said:

I’ll change the bolts now

Not noted in the video, it's always smart to hit the power button to discharge the caps after you unplug the batteries before you unplug it from the controller.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

Also, that video doesn't show removing the shock and rebound which you need the provided tool and is super easy to cross thread upon re-assmebly so be careful. Doesn't mention letting the air out first and adding a little upon re-assembly to help catch the shock screws. Make sure you don't loose the lock washers on the dampening struts, they go on the inside. Also i would pull 2 bolts out and snug the new ones down before taking the others out. no sense in opening it up for the possibility of moving . Also i would torque them cross pattern.

[Josiah]

24 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Not noted in the video, it's always smart to hit the power button to discharge the caps after you unplug the batteries before you unplug it from the controller

Oops didn’t see this before I unplugged it.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

4 minutes ago, Josiah said:

Oops didn’t see this before I unplugged it.

I would just wait until you get the new battery to plug it back in, that way the caps will be drained. Or even 1hr or so. Looks good though, nice organization.

Edited March 12, 2023 by Punxatawneyjoe

[Josiah]

some progress
 

[Josiah]

 

 

wow, I saw @Punxatawneyjoe’s comment about needing to remove the cylinders and I could see clearly I had to remove one, but looked like I had a room to get the wrench on to the other side until I backed the screw out and bent the shaft.  phooey!

Edited March 12, 2023 by Josiah

[Robse]

what is that dent in the shock??

[Punxatawneyjoe]

4 minutes ago, Josiah said:

 

WTH? It hasn't been apart before right? And that tube is inside the slider right?

[Josiah]

I’m terrible at communicating. I dented  the shaft when I tried to back out one of the motor screws while it was still in the way.  I saw I had enough clearance to get the Allen onto the nuts but obviously I didn’t have enough clearance to get the nut out. I think the shock is still going to work OK.

[Punxatawneyjoe]

1 minute ago, Josiah said:

I think the shock is still going to work OK.

Yeah, should be fine.

[Josiah]

First four bolts changed and shocks re inserted.  
 

on to the next side 

Edited March 12, 2023 by Josiah

[Punxatawneyjoe]

11 minutes ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Yeah, should be fine.

The more i think about it, it will be fine as long as its not in the travel area of the plunger, if it is you will have a problem because it relies on the roundness of the tube to seal.