AtlasP Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 (edited) Trying to remove pedals on my 100v Nik+ to do a tire change and some other maintenance, and one of the hex threaded inserts won't budge which means I can't get it out or the pedal off. (Other side came off fine.) Broke first allen wrench. Applying excessive force to second one just starts it to warp and/or twist such that I'm pretty sure I could just keep snapping them off and/or there's the fear of stripping the socket. Tried heat. (From hairdryer, don't have torch.) Tried excessive vibrating of pedal using a car buffer to try to get the pin to fall out the other/open side so I could at least remove pedal--no dice/no real way to get purchase on pin to remove. Any ideas? (My ultimate fear would be having to destroy & replace the whole damn pedal while trying not to destroy the pedal hanger or more in the process.) Stuck one: https://ibb.co/WGv3vb8 Full set of involved components from other side: https://ibb.co/pQSTJh7 Edited June 7, 2021 by AtlasP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 (edited) You will need to apply heat to the area from a propane torch or a high wattage soldering gun. A hair dryer does not produce enough heat to soften any locktite that is possibly on the threads. I used a torch on my S18 hex nuts to soften the locktite. Edited June 7, 2021 by Rehab1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadpower Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 I believe the suspension part is anodized. Anodizing is not just for cosmetic reasons, it also gives a protective surface to the aluminum. This is why protecting it from heat as illustrated in the video is wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unipilot69 Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Try spraying penetrating oil on the insert. Liquid wrench, kroil, triflow, WD-40 should free it up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ..... Posted June 8, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted June 8, 2021 (edited) PB Blaster. Get a hex bit socket of decent quality, not a chinesium hex wrench. If you've already spun the hex, youll need to hammer a bigger tool in there. You can also get a larger than required tool and grind it to fit. Either way, PB blaster it, tap with a wrench a bit and wait. Come back later, tell the bolt that its coming out or breaking. If NOT removing the bolt is a solution, no need to get down to bizz. If repair means it HAS to come off.. Wrench it until it comes off or breaks, failure is NOT an option. You can use a torch, but be careful as alloys dont like it, and the pedal has a lot of area to soak up the heat before you get much to the actual hole. My sherm had the same problem. IN the end it broke free, but you can tell the shit metal its pedals are made of, galled threads on the way out. Years of working in a shop taught me to start out gentle and declare war when it comes to that. Failure is not an option. People dont hand you their broken cars and accept any solution that doesnt = repair. You probably wont hurt the hanger. Worst comes to worst, youll need drill the hex out and scrap the pedal/pins. Ah, the joys of working on loose tolerances and crap metals... I quit using ANY threadlocker on ANY of these wheels. Too much risk involved for my tastes. https://youtu.be/mns_lXmT2X4?t=90 I ran into same issue on my veteran in this vid. I went thru 3 hex keys (quality) before it broke loose. Sadly, I wasnt recording for the big POP when I had to wonder if it broke or moved. Edited June 8, 2021 by ShanesPlanet 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phoron Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 impact force goes a long way towards breaking seized fasteners loose, if the impact wont damage anything nearby, try to set a drift punch at the bottom of the hex hole and give it a few solid hits, Penetrating oil also helps, let it soak in for about a half hour at least. As previously stated, a real hex socket also helps If the hex bore is chowdered, some valve grinding compound can help you get some traction. Good luck 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 (edited) 25 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said: Wrench it until it comes off or breaks or put another way... If it doesn't work, FORCE IT. if it breaks, it needed fixing anyway. (It's how my better half views the world, and it's worked out... I get to learn how to fix a lot more things than I would have) Edited June 8, 2021 by Tawpie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gon2fast Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Allen wrench socket attached to a T-handle spinner and a wooden hammer solved a similar problem on my MSP. Needs to be a Hulk Smash to really matter... learned that one from my wife via cordless land line phones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post m365ww Posted June 9, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted June 9, 2021 If you can't get access to a heat gun, one alternative may be to drill a small hole thru the center of the stuck hex set screw. Then get a pin thru this small hole and use it to knock out the shaft. Hope this works for you and you can reuse the pedal. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
..... Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 On 6/8/2021 at 12:57 AM, gon2fast said: Allen wrench socket attached to a T-handle spinner and a wooden hammer solved a similar problem on my MSP. Needs to be a Hulk Smash to really matter... learned that one from my wife via cordless land line phones. I've found that using constant and increasing torque is a LOT safer and less likely to break things, than blunt force. True, using a punch and hammering the pin itself for vibrational shock to aid in breaking it free, is common. However, I wouldnt make it a practice to use a striking force, better to get a longer bar and slowly apply leverage. 1 hour ago, m365ww said: If you can't get access to a heat gun, one alternative may be to drill a small hole thru the center of the stuck hex set screw. Then get a pin thru this small hole and use it to knock out the shaft. Hope this works for you and you can reuse the pedal. Heat guns push so much air and this is such a small location, even a torch is a little iffy. Good point on drilling thru to hammer the pin free. One may find that once a hole is drilled thru or just halfway, the allen will lossen. Party because the hole allows it to flex into itself and partly becuase of the heat generated on the allen itself. I oiled my pins and allen bolts when reinstalling. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldFartRides Posted June 9, 2021 Share Posted June 9, 2021 These new 1/4” cordless divers are like a mini impact wrench. Do with that tidbit what you will. Best, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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