First EUC, mten3 and not quite sure if things are as they're supposed to be.

[choopaloopa]

So, I got my first EUC (Mten3) around a month ago and it took me a little less than 10 minutes to get going. I thought that's that and it'll be just happy riding forever, but instead the next I ended up falling in a turn, busted up everything and broke my wrist. 

No problem, things happen and after a week of recovering took it for another spin and everything went perfectly until I was taking a completely normal medium speed turn and again ended up eating shit. I've taken it for a spin couple more times, but it just feels unstable and now I'm wondering if it was just broken from the get go.

I tried calibrating, but honestly I don't know if it's even done anything as there is no difference and no output on the app. When I boot it up, it locks onto whatever pitch it is at that time or if it's too low, then to the first possible angle which is around 20ish degrees.

Is it supposed to "home" to the upright position on startup or is it normal that you basically "calibrate" it each time you turn it on?

In addition there's this weird quite audible clunk whenever I try slow down a bit faster. I don't know what could be making the sound as everything should be tight and nifty and I figured it's just somehow the motor, but that doesn't make sense either.

There's some other oddities too, but as a long time consumer of straight from China goods (3D printers, lasers, electronics and so forth), I just considered it all part of the regular Chinese charm of things.

Thanks for any help or thoughts or anything.

PS, I've tried calibrating it with every app I could find from the play store and the apk from here too and they all had the same end result of nothing.

[RockyTop]

Calibration? - Did you sit the wheel on a level stand or bricks, level front and back and side to side while calibrating? 
 

The MTen3 is a bit of a challenge for most riders. It has very little stability. Movements have to be very small and calculated. I love the thing but it takes me a minute to get used to after riding a normal sized wheel. 

Edited May 11, 2021 by RockyTop

[choopaloopa]

Yea, I read some topics where it was mentioned that it has to be absolutely completely level in order to work so I used a bubble level, box speakers, books and papers to achieve that. Made sure to provide a reasonable resistance on the wheel.

[RockyTop]

Ok. Sounds good. Front to back sets your angle. Side to side is more important to me. It can really mess things up. Before I forget. The clunk sound is likely the limits of the wheel. It is not recommended for people my size. Most wheels will clunk if your push them hard enough. I have a 16s and it clunks quite a bit when I push it. It is actually the electrical limit of the wheel. Push harder and you will hit the ground. It happens too fast for a beep. 
 

I don’t know. ..... It is a hyper little wheel. It is actually quite powerful for the small specs that it has. It is more of a second play wheel to me.  Maybe you need a bigger wheel. It should be easy to sell. 

Edited May 11, 2021 by RockyTop

[choopaloopa]

Should it have some kind of side to side (roll) stabilization too?

On the pitch though, how would the calibration even show itself? Currently it seems like the wheel can't remember which way is up between the on/off cycles. Is that normal?

E.g. if I start it up tilted forward 10 degrees, should it correct it's pitch on it's own to 0 degrees tilt (or whatever it was set to during the calibration) or should it remain at the 10 degrees?

[Chriull]

12 minutes ago, choopaloopa said:

. I thought that's that and it'll be just happy riding forever, but instead the next I ended up falling in a turn, busted up everything and broke my wrist. 

Was one of my first serious falls too - a bump in a turn and i took it with my wrist...

14 minutes ago, choopaloopa said:

When I boot it up, it locks onto whatever pitch it is at that time or if it's too low, then to the first possible angle which is around 20ish degrees.

I had once a replacement motherboard with a ?bad gyro? - while going in a turn it tilted and tilted forward until one slipped from the pedals. No chance to calibrate.

Such things can occur, although often it is like @RockyTopwrote just the fault of calibration while the wheel is not "perfectly" level in every direction!

Sometimes those gyro ic's are just f... up. And i have the feeling some are just a bit better than others. The newer wheels seem to have better gyros - at least less reports of wheels dipping during a turn. Tge mten3 was still from the times such reports were more common! Maybe GW/begode did not update the design?

20 minutes ago, choopaloopa said:

In addition there's this weird quite audible clunk whenever I try slow down a bit faster.

This could theoreticly be some axle problem? Afair such things were reported from the V8 with a bad/broken fastening/attachment of the axle. Won't hurt to open the wheel and inspect the axle?!

1 minute ago, RockyTop said:

Most wheels will clunk if your push them hard enough. I have a 16s and it clunks quite a bit when I push it

Isn't this more like a rattling sound than a clunk? Or i just mean somethimg different?

[RockyTop]

4 minutes ago, Chriull said:

 

Isn't this more like a rattling sound than a clunk? Or i just mean somethimg different?

No, it actually feels like the axle slips. One good clunk. If you are gradual it can rattle. 
 

I don’t think you can set it at 10. % That might be the problem. Try 3% instead. It should remember the settings on power off. But only if the settings are reasonable. 

Edited May 11, 2021 by RockyTop

[RockyTop]

The clunk that I have felt seems like a bolt of energy clunk. It is the sound and feel of  forcing a shorted motor to turn. Sometimes the 16s will do it maybe 3 times in 1.5 seconds if I don’t let off. I don’t like it so I try not to do it too much 

[stephen]

11 minutes ago, RockyTop said:

No, it actually feels like the axle slips. One good clunk. If you are gradual it can rattle. 
 

I don’t think you can set it at 10. % That might be the problem. Try 3% instead. It should remember the settings on power off. But only if the settings are reasonable. 

I think a video would be good for us to analyse the problem 

[Tawpie]

Something is not right, call your reseller. I have a new 67v mTen and it calibrated fine and most importantly it remembers where “level” is between power cycles.

Calibration was very confusing to me… I used EUCWORLD and you have to tap start calibration then turn off the wheel. Get everything level (I used the iOS measure app) and then turn the wheel on while keeping it dead level. I didn’t use a stand because I don’t have one here… it’ll beep 5 times quickly, keep it level. Then it’ll go into continuous beeeeeeeeeeeeeep, turn it off. When you power it up again it should go to level.

Mine doesn’t clunk but I don’t weigh much. Instead mine will groan a little. Sometimes.

I’d be worried about the failure to calibrate AND the clunk, neither sound normal.

Lastly, EUCWORLD let’s you set the lateral tilt angle for cutoff. I set mine to medium and the wheel shuts down power to the motor when the pedal hanger contacts the ground. Perhaps your wrecks are related to that setting being too “vertical”? The mTen pedal dips pretty badly in turns if you’re not in hard riding mode, if your lateral tilt is “conservative/vertical” and you don’t have good calibration and you’re turning, it may think the wheel tipped over and stops powering the motor?

[.....]

It should level itself slowly on power up, unless you have it leaned WAY too far. Sometimes mine levels so slowly, I hit the lift button, set it level'ish' and release. YOu know, impatience and all. I use a disk bubble level smack in the middle of mine and its not a big deal. Being a tiny bit off is aggravating, but not to the degree it would cause a crash. I can overpower mine if i try, but it gives me beep and warning. I would suspect that you arent overpowering yours in turns. I have an old and a new version. I do think they did a gyro or firmware change, as hard mode on the newer, isnt as solid as the older. I prefer hard modes and both my mtens are fine, just different.

I suspect you have a gyro issue. Theres not much in these things. You shouldnt be hearing a clunk sound either. EIther your pedal hangers are a shade loose on the motor (grab both hangers and twist, you should feel NO movement), or the battery is moving around. ONE of my mtens had a pad on the battery that is sticky (new) and it compresses into the shell to keep the battery from moving. Its hard to split the case of the one with the sticky pad. I put tape on a lot of it to make it easier to open in future repairs. My OTHER mten doesnt have this mat and theres a tiny bit of room on side shell. Neither thumps or rattles, but i could see how the battery in the non-padded, could. Once open, youll see its a simple layout. MAYBE the board could bounce around, but I'd suspect you'd KNOW it wasnt right and not even need to ask.

If its under warranty, contact a dealer. If its not, look up a vid and open her up to see. 3 guitar pics, allen wrench and a cheapo philips is ALL itll take(barring Murphy's law). CAREFULLY remove the lower pads.The 'gyro' idea of mine, will not be visually aparent. The clunk may be something you could spot. I have a mten tire swap vid that shows me opening the little thing, in case it may help. @Tawpie brings up a very good point. I had my brand new wheel hooked up to eucw once (i rarely bother on the mten), and i played with the lateral tilt settings. It only took a few moments to realize that if set wrong, it is FAR too easy to lean over enough and trigger the wheel to stop. It made the wheel less likely to dance and bite you, but also more likely to stop rolling in a deep lean. Maybe give that a look. At any rate, the mten SHOULD level itself and NO, you neednt calibrate often at all. My old mten gets checked about every 100 miles for it and is fine. TO check calibration, I just toss the level on it after it self levels on power up. If its center, its center. If you're finding the mten to be tough to use, its broken. Its a simple wheel that should function as you expect, at the touch of a power button.

Edited May 12, 2021 by ShanesPlanet

[j_lot]

In the same boat here. Just picked up and Mten3 as my first wheel and though I’m starting to get better, the wheel is very susceptible to pulling me after encountering even the smallest inconsistency in pavement (even painted road lines a couple of 1-2 mm high). Feels much less stable than I expected. It’s likely my skills as a rider need improving, but I’m also encouraged by what I’m reading that the Mten3 is a finicky wheel to ride. I didn’t know calibration was a thing - thanks to this thread I’m going to try that and hopefully that helps with the issue of the wheel pulling to the right. I also ended up fabricating extra padding so I could actually grip the wheel with my inner calves instead of just the sides of my foot, seems to help a bit; although it’s kind of hacky. 

[.....]

1 hour ago, j_lot said:

In the same boat here. Just picked up and Mten3 as my first wheel and though I’m starting to get better, the wheel is very susceptible to pulling me after encountering even the smallest inconsistency in pavement (even painted road lines a couple of 1-2 mm high). Feels much less stable than I expected. It’s likely my skills as a rider need improving, but I’m also encouraged by what I’m reading that the Mten3 is a finicky wheel to ride. I didn’t know calibration was a thing - thanks to this thread I’m going to try that and hopefully that helps with the issue of the wheel pulling to the right. I also ended up fabricating extra padding so I could actually grip the wheel with my inner calves instead of just the sides of my foot, seems to help a bit; although it’s kind of hacky. 

I learned at 15 psi. I'm only 130lbs and it was a tubeless. Lower pressures can make it a little easier when you are first getting the hang of it. Just remember to air it up before you venture off at speed, or if you weigh a lot more. Dont be running UBER low pressure and jumping the damn thing, unless you know wtf you're doin.  The mten does seem to track every little groove in the road. Don't fret, youll get used to it. RIding loose will allow the tracking to happen but youll cease to overreact or let it bother you.  Of all my wheels, the mten seems to read my mind most. Its the worst to mount, but its the easiest to teeter and not have to dismount. Bend that leg a LOT when mounting and it helps.

Definitely a beloved wheel for small jaunts or fun rides in small spaces. Its a tough bugger, just keep trying. Be sure to check out the modes, as soft is WAY soft on the mten. I ride the mten in hard, but its fun to find out what YOU like. Calibration is easy and is well worth the slight hassle. You want twitchy: air up the stock tire to 35psi, or install an aftermarket with more plies and air it up. The mten is also VERY easy to manage curbs (if you arent heavy). Just be sure to suck up the hit with those knees. Fun times...fun times....

oh, if you ever hear plastic squeak when pendulum or during tight turns... check your pedal hangers. The shell flexes and you hear it, before youll feel the movement. NO big deal, it just happens over time. Probably more often with heavier weight or more active ride styles.

Edited May 16, 2021 by ShanesPlanet

[Scottie888]

Sounds about right to me. The Mten3 is much renowned for its extreme 'playfulness' & penchant for nibbling ankles. The little 10" tubeless tire is also not known for being very forgiving on anything other than smooth surfaces. Pedal dip is very common on EUCs esp when turning & the Mten3 is known to have serious prolong pedal dips on bumpy surfaces.

Personally I have been tossed off it enough times that I've given up on it. Other than that, its a very fun runabout & last mile commuter.

[j_lot]

11 hours ago, Scottie888 said:

Pedal dip is very common on EUCs esp when turning & the Mten3 is known to have serious prolong pedal dips on bumpy surfaces.

Ah yes, never heard of pedal dip but just read up what that was and I definitely have been experiencing it as well. Especially when going up steeper curb cuts the wheel disconcertingly drops forwards more than I would expect.

[RagingGrandpa]

Those are two different things...

On 5/16/2021 at 2:18 AM, Scottie888 said:

Mten3 is known to have serious prolong pedal dips on bumpy surfaces.

This means the controller's estimate of the 'level' position has become incorrect, usually due to vibration, or sudden U-turns.

The EUC remains rideable with full power available... it just feels weird that the pedal angle is no longer level.

(The problem typically goes away within 5 seconds of cruising straight ahead on a smooth surface; or after stopping for 5 seconds.)

On 5/16/2021 at 1:47 PM, j_lot said:

when going up steeper curb the wheel disconcertingly drops forwards more than I would expect.

"Overlean"

That means your body overpowered the EUC, and it could not make enough force to keep the pedals level.

If this happens due to a bump, rough surface, or sudden movement, sometimes the EUC will recover and you can continue riding without stepping off.

If this happens due to sustained acceleration >10mph, or reaching maximum speed, a crash is inevitable.
This is also often called a "cutout," but in this case the EUC didn't actually quit (it was trying as hard as it could!), so it's a misnomer.

[Scottie888]

2 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

This means the controller's estimate of the 'level' position has become incorrect, usually due to vibration, or sudden U-turns.

The EUC remains rideable with full power available... it just feels weird that the pedal angle is no longer level.

(The problem typically goes away within 5 seconds of cruising straight ahead on a smooth surface; or after stopping for 5 seconds.)

I've no doubt you're correct on this. For whatever the reason, this particular controller gyro issue only occurs with the Mten3 as I've not experienced it nor heard of same on other wheels. You're also correct in that its still rideable but it sure as heck doesn't feel right so this plus the unforgiving nature of the small tire basically rules out the Mten3 on rougher surfaces for me.

That said, personally I liked riding the lil wheel on snow. Not a foot of it but its great on a few inchs of the white fluffies. 

[j_lot]

On 5/16/2021 at 2:07 AM, ShanesPlanet said:

RIding loose will allow the tracking to happen but youll cease to overreact or let it bother you. 

Just wanted to post back and say I tried riding loose today and it made a world of difference. Much easier to ride this way. Thanks for the tip

[Roadpower]

I have a Mten3. The Mten3 is a BAD wheel to learn on. I have said otherwise in the past and regret that. The Mten3 is a niche wheel and more suited to an experienced rider, especially if they are interested in trick riding. A far better beginner wheel is the V8F IMO. The Mten3 can eat you alive when you lack experience. The bare minimum PSI should be 25. In my case I'm about 180 pounds plus clothes/gear. I run the Mten3 at 32-36 PSI. You have to remember that you need more PSI with a smaller diameter wheel.

Ewheels has a very handy chart for this.

I'm very sorry you have been hurt. Don't let that dissuade you. You just need a wheel that is much better suited to your experience level. Also please wear protective gear and shoes that give you ankle protection which is mandatory with a Mten3.

Best of luck to you.

[.....]

42 minutes ago, Roadpower said:

I have a Mten3. The Mten3 is a BAD wheel to learn on. I have said otherwise in the past and regret that. The Mten3 is a niche wheel and more suited to an experienced rider, especially if they are interested in trick riding. A far better beginner wheel is the V8F IMO. The Mten3 can eat you alive when you lack experience. The bare minimum PSI should be 25. In my case I'm about 180 pounds plus clothes/gear. I run the Mten3 at 32-36 PSI. You have to remember that you need more PSI with a smaller diameter wheel.

Ewheels has a very handy chart for this.

I'm very sorry you have been hurt. Don't let that dissuade you. You just need a wheel that is much better suited to your experience level. Also please wear protective gear and shoes that give you ankle protection which is mandatory with a Mten3.

Best of luck to you.

I fail to see how diameter of wheel has any relation to needing more psi? I ride mine rather low and lower than my other wheels. I DO risk rim damage, but this isnt really a rim size issue, rather a lack of tire support from low pressure. Im only 130lbs and ride at around 20psi but I tool around in streets mostly. Now that I kind of know how to ride, the mten is freaking AWESOME! I dont get anywhere fast, but i can teeter and spin around and treat it like a little bas**rd.

I do agree, the MTen is NOT a beginner wheel. I had an mten and an 18l. I was off and riding much sooner on the 18L, as the mten is just a bear to mount as its tiny. Ironically, my worst ankle injury to date is from walking aside my 18L. I quickly learned to jump away from the mten when it asks to dance. Or at the least, dont try and catch it when it goes too far south...

Edited May 18, 2021 by ShanesPlanet

[Roadpower]

Hi Shanes, I have to prepare for work but I'll get back to you in the morning.

[Scottie888]

39 minutes ago, ShanesPlanet said:

I fail to see how diameter of wheel has any relation to needing more psi?

Could be wrong here but I believe that's more the case for the tt (ie.tubetype) tires. Much as most tt tires are prone to flats, its even more so on small D tires & a higher PSI helps to alleviate that. In general ofcos.

Its not as much of an issue with tubeless.

[.....]

oh I agree, the mten tire is VERY thin. Its also not a hefty rim. There's also issue with pressures and tubes. I'm just narrowing it all down to : how does tire diameter alone, effect the safe running psi? Not counting extreme speeds, excess heat and disruption of bead. I'm honestly curious, as I didnt realize size had a factor.

[Scottie888]

You got me brother. Heck if I know but that assumption seems to be the general consensus, at least anecdotally. Maybe it has to do with overall air volume in a smaller tire? Lower PSI means the tire will naturally have more surface area contact & hence, more susceptible to punctures?

At least thats what would make sense to me.

[.....]

You may be on to something with volume of air and surface area. @Roadpower probably has a pretty simple explaination. It isnt a vary tall sidewall or stiff casing on the mten for sure. They do make a 4 ply for it that works tho.. Makes it MORE twitchy lol.

Edited May 19, 2021 by ShanesPlanet