Popular Post fbhb Posted April 23, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted April 23, 2021 (edited) With the Veteran Sherman having such a huge battery leading to much longer rides, it is now more likely than ever before that you may find yourself needing to charge your phone, Bluetooth speaker etc. when out on an extended ride. Surprisingly, a USB charge port is missing from the Sherman as standard but can be retro-fitted by following this description of how I went about adding one to my own Sherman. During my recent control board replacement, I took the opportunity to also install a Dual USB Charge Port to the front panel of my Sherman. The USB Charge port I used has both a standard USB 3.0 and a USB-C port each offering Fast Charge and also an LED Voltmeter readout, all protected by the silicone rubber cover. There is a choice of colours for the LED readout and it can be purchased with either a Red, Blue or Green display, I chose the Blue option. This Dual Charge port can be purchased on Ali Express by following this link: USB Charger PD Quick Charge 3.0 Dual USB Charger With LED Voltmeter And Cable For 12 24V The shell of the Sherman will need to have a 29mm hole drilled to accommodate this Charge port and it is just about compact enough to fit with some minor modification to the unit, as explained later. The roll bar was wrapped with masking tape to avoid the chuck of the drill scratching the paint, during the very careful drilling of the 29 mm hole. The Sherman shell is 3mm thick, so I took my time to drill through very slowly with an auger! As long as the hole is marked out and drilled very accurately in the position I chose (25mm from the centre seam and 25mm down from the top edge of the shell), then the whole Charge port assembly with cable connectors fitted will just about clear the fans and sit above the heatsink. In order to achieve this, I also had to reduce the width of the spade connector pins from 6.3mm down to 4.8mm and then use the smaller spade connectors on my cables. Difficult to see in these photos (as it's clear plastic), but I had to make a 20mm long spacer in order for the lock ring to hold the Charge port in place. The shell has a moulded recess for one of the top shell screws running across the width of the wheel and preventing the lock ring from tightening right up against the shell, hence the need for a spacer. I found a small thin walled, clear plastic bottle with the perfect dimensions to cut down and make into my 20mm long spacer. The Charge port needs to be run from the 12volt system in order to supply a stable 5volt to both USBs and the front light circuit offers the easiest point at which to tap in to. This does of course mean that the Charge port is only going to be active when the front light is turned on. However, should you wish to charge without the light running simply unplug the the 3.5mm jack plug first (WARNING: Care needs to be taken to ONLY unplug the front light while the wheel is powered off, to prevent shorting out the 3.5mm Jack port) I used Scotch Lock Splice T-Tap Connectors to tap into the existing 3.5mm Jack port wiring to the front light, using the Red (positive/main beam) and the Black (negative) wires. These easy to use connectors are readily available even at places like Amazon and come in various sizes, one of which will be suitable for the wiring used for the front light and avoiding the need for any soldered joints. They also have the advantage of being easy to remove if required at a future point. All the connections have now been made with the Scotch Lock Splice T-Tap Connectors, tapping into the front light 3.5mm Jack port Red and Black cables. The clearance was just enough for the fan to spin clear of the cable connectors after altering the width of the spade pins on the back of the Charge port assembly. This photo shows the wheel powered on and the fans spinning clear of the cables. The install job is now completed and the Charge port is powered on with a press of the front light button. The 12volt system’s voltage can be seen displayed through the translucent Charge port's silicone rubber cover. Both USB ports can be seen and accessed with the protective silicone rubber cover lifted out of the way. The 3.5mm Jack plug needs to be SAFELY unplugged whilst the wheel is powered off! Then the front light button can be used to power on the Charge port without also having the front light running. The Charge port is powered on here without the front light running and the silicone rubber cover left open to reveal both USB ports. I have used the USB-C port to charge up my Samsung Note 10 during my testing of this Charge port’s compatibility, after which I felt more than confident to go ahead with the install. The test was carried out with the main front light connected and switched on the whole time, whilst the wheel was sitting idle. (NOTE: This will be the ONLY way that I use the Charge port in future, being the much safer option) The latest Veteran Sherman firmware 1.0.56 will allow the wheel to stay powered on and idle for 1 hour, before automatically powering off. This proved long enough to charge my phone from around 30% to around 90% IIRC. EDIT: 04/10/2021 Updating this topic to reflect soldering directly to the spare 13/12v pins on more recent version control boards! Having found this image online explaining/showing, that the early Sherman control boards had some JST connectors moved to New locations, but the tracks on the board are still viable on Newer version boards I have now soldered my Dual USB/Voltmeter cabling directly to the board's spare 13/12v. (My sincere apologies for not crediting the original owner of this image, as I am unable to find his name, but I am truly grateful for this very useful diagram and hope it can also be of help to other Sherman owners for both this mod or any mod ONLY needing 5v) As can be seen in the above photo of the very early version L20-20 Sherman control board, there will be working blank connections on the more recent boards that can be used to solder in either 5v or in my use case here, 13/12v accessories. When I first carried out this mod back in April 2021, I was deep into 2 control board warranty claims via my seller and so avoided the risk of soldering directly to a Brand New replacement board at that point. By using removable Scotch connectors, I knew that at a later date these could be easily removed from the front light cable without issue/damage or any replacement to the front light cable necessary! The description of how this mod was installed explains that using the Front light circuit means the light has to be switched on to use the USB, however these spare points on the board allow either the 5v or 12/13v to operate/turn on/off with the Sherman's power button which is far more preferable. Much cleaner install now, especially after also spiral wrapping to the Front light cable to relieve any chance of stress to the soldered joints! Edited October 12, 2021 by fbhb 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mango Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 I looked into those same usb ports but found them too big to fit in the Sherman, but you managed to find a way. Have you considered tapping 12v and 5v directly from the control board, so that you don’t need to have the headlights on to charge? The first batch control board had two jst male connectors supplying 12v and 5v that were subsequently removed in later board revisions. Soldering in the missing jst ports will bring back the functionality as Veteran didn’t redesign the circuitry. I have installed a basic 5v usb port charger that pigtails out the back, with a 12v dc power port in the front to power any additional lights or accessories. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted April 24, 2021 Author Share Posted April 24, 2021 (edited) 26 minutes ago, Mango said: Have you considered tapping 12v and 5v directly from the control board, so that you don’t need to have the headlights on to charge? This install was done whilst fitting the second warranty replacement control board I have had to get from Veteran via my seller, due to the faulty standard 5A charger issue I have documented in another topic. So bearing that in mind, I had no intention of carrying out any soldering work to a brand new untested control board for something that for me really is a non issue. I am yet to clock up any serious mileage on this second warranty replacement control board before I can be assured that it's All Good and report back, having only ridden the wheel twice since the install. Also, as I did state in the USB Charge port install description, the front light can very easily be unplugged with care if there is any concern over it being powered on during charging! Edited April 24, 2021 by fbhb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EUC_Ali Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 This is a cool modification that led me down a HUGE rabbit role of about charging rates for different devices and ports. Looks like the typical phone can accept anywhere from 1-2.5 A Max. Iphone uses lightening cable and other devices use USB-C/USB3.1 What made you choose this specific port, and does it really matter which port you use because they will all be 12V? For example, if I wanted to charge my speaker, should I use USB3.1 -> input or USB-C -> input. Explain it to me like I'm 5 haha.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mantraguy Posted April 24, 2021 Share Posted April 24, 2021 Any idea what the max current output might be, either on the 12v light circuit or on the 5V and/or 12V pads on the control board? This is a mod I'd consider doing on my Sherman when it finally arrives! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kekafuch Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 On 4/24/2021 at 8:37 AM, EUC_Ali said: This is a cool modification that led me down a HUGE rabbit role of about charging rates for different devices and ports. Looks like the typical phone can accept anywhere from 1-2.5 A Max. Iphone uses lightening cable and other devices use USB-C/USB3.1 What made you choose this specific port, and does it really matter which port you use because they will all be 12V? For example, if I wanted to charge my speaker, should I use USB3.1 -> input or USB-C -> input. Explain it to me like I'm 5 haha.. The device he used has a voltage regulator inside. It’s converting the 12v of the Sherman front port to 5v for the USB : 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 (edited) NOTE: I have updated my OP today, with images to reflect the fact that this mod is Now installed by soldering directly to the spare 13/12v output on the control board, which enables the USB port to be powered on/off when the Sherman is powered on/off! Edited October 4, 2021 by fbhb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AngryJackPCB Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 fbhb you're a brave soul for drilling into your $3,700 investment. I'd be so nervous the whole time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrRobot Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 (edited) That seems sketchy to do on the front housing with open usb ports. Rain? Edit: didn't see the cover. I guess if you trust it being waterproof it should be ok Edited October 10, 2021 by MrRobot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nowjoel Posted October 29, 2021 Share Posted October 29, 2021 (edited) I would love to see the 12V current consumption of this DC-DC step down as the QC 3 and USB-C power delivery consumes a lot of amperage. Can you place a multimeter on the positive lead and plug power hungry devices? also, there’s a cheap non usb-C version without the LCD on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNDDTP6 The socket has a 12V 3.5/4A requirement, which is why I ask the question. Edited October 29, 2021 by JD212 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freeforester Posted January 5, 2022 Share Posted January 5, 2022 On 10/29/2021 at 7:44 AM, nowjoel said: I would love to see the 12V current consumption of this DC-DC step down as the QC 3 and USB-C power delivery consumes a lot of amperage. Can you place a multimeter on the positive lead and plug power hungry devices? also, there’s a cheap non usb-C version without the LCD on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNDDTP6 The socket has a 12V 3.5/4A requirement, which is why I ask the question. It should be noted that the cheap alternative version suggested above does not appear to have a threaded body over the whole length of the ‘barrel’, and which would therefore require a bit more work in dissembly of the Sherman shell (split in half) in order to fix into place; unlike the original part suggested, this alternative component could not be secured by addition of the spacer as originally used by fbhb, there being no threading at the rear of the barrel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qba Posted August 23, 2022 Share Posted August 23, 2022 Would not be better to make simple cable jack - bulk converter 12->5V -> usb connector (from lighter powerded car charger)? No modifications! I'll do such cable by myself and test it. In addition, another, low-power daily light powered from USB can be added to have a proper lights needed for street moving in serveral countries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qba Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 (edited) Ok, I have made it. Veteran Sherman does not have a USB charging port. But thanks to the simple modular structure, it may have All you need to do is unplug the headlamp, plug in the gadget below and charge the phone, even while driving. You can connect a replacement lamp flashing white to the second socket. ATTENTION! We ALWAYS connect and disconnect the plugs to the monocycle turned off for safety! (MAX doesn't seem to have a problem with that). It is a DIY project - you need a 3D printer and plates from a 4.5V flat battery (or other brass ones), a short cable with a 3.5mm stereo jack. The cable is as short as possible due to the thin wires. Mine has about 10 cm/ 4 inches. I ran a 3A current through cable and it got warm, 1A was not. Supposing a current of 1A, we have 13W supplied by this socket, and this is the maximum that our charger should have, i.e. it should provide 5V 2-2.5A with a consumption of 12V / 1A, i.e. those with an inverter, not a linear stabilizer (i.e. most on the market). Works, charging ATTENTION: all modifications are made at your own risk! Thingiverse files: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5480211 Edited July 12 by qba 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uno Solo Posted July 25, 2023 Share Posted July 25, 2023 Thanks to the great info in this thread, I decided to make one. I started with this motorcycle handlebar 45W dual USB charger and changed the cable. https://www.walmart.com/ip/12V-24V-Car-Fast-Charger-Socket-45W-PD-USB-C-18W-QC3-0-Dual-USB-Power-Outlet-USB-Outlet-for-Motorcycle-Truck-ATV-Boats/2221055002 I'm considering looking into tapping into the circuit board, as I'd like to draw 90W to charge a laptop as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qba Posted August 26 Share Posted August 26 You will not get more than 18W (maybe a little more) because that is what the factory says and you get on the socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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