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Mantraguy

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About Mantraguy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 10/07/1973

Profile Information

  • Location
    Nanaimo, BC Canada
  • EUC
    Begode Tesla V2 1500Wh, Veteran Sherman (version 3)

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  1. OK thanks. Mine is from (I think) the newest batch of Shermans, and there is zero gap between the charge plug and the shell; I tried carefully removing one of the existing ones by prying it out but it simply broke off with the rest of the ring stuck behind the plug. Some day I'll have to remove the shell and go in that way; the plug is held on with a nut on the inside, which has been gooped to stop the nut spinning off (Chinese version of Loctite I guess). I'm not excited about trying to stick a metal wrench in there, so close to the control board and other connectors, to hold / turn the nut;
  2. I'm getting annoyed with the stock Sherman power caps and how they always jiggle themselves loose part-way through a ride. If I want to replace them, do I have to undo or loosen something from inside the shell?
  3. I seem to recall that it looks something like this: Note that the black lines that cover the trolley handles are just single cells; the others (red lines) are pairs, one closer to you and one behind (although they're offset slightly to make the pack thinner). I'm not sure exactly how many cells are in each direction so the numbers of lines are somewhat random and don't indicate numbers of cells. I had to replace the two cells at the top left of the horizontally-configured ones, which meant removing half of that left bank. It turns out that one of the tabs (welded to the cells,
  4. I have the 1500Wh version (LG M50T cells) but I imagine the cell size and layout is the same; I'm not sure what cells the 1480Wh versions used. I had to replace a few cells in one of my packs so I'm quite familiar with the overall layout. There are two packs, each consisting of 40 cells in a 10S4P configuration. However, there is only one BMS which handles the cell groups for both packs. My memory is foggy as to which pack is on which side but it's immediately obvious once you take the covers off. The BMS is on the side (not the face, but the top of the cells) and is only about 3" long by
  5. My wife's sister lives in Canmore with her husband and 2 girls, so it's just a matter of time before we head that way for another visit. I'll make a point to look you up the next time we're planning a trip there!
  6. Guess I'll have to try harder to meet more of the locals! I know one of us has an S18 and a V8, another guy has a V11 and a smaller wheel, and I know there are a few others but not sure what they're riding as I've only heard about them (haven't met them yet). We probably all have our own favourite routes, so we are less likely to meet each other if we only stick to our usual riding areas! For the population (around 100K), Nanaimo is a fairly large area (25km north to south). I've heard of another guy on Gabriola Island and a guy in Ladysmith but I don't know what they ride (yet)!
  7. Just saw this now... wasn't me, but there aren't many of us in Nanaimo! At last count I know of 4 EUC riders including myself, but most of the other guys don't get out much. I get out for a ride most days, usually 50-70km. Are you sure it wasn't a Tesla V2? Didn't get my Sherman until Aug 12th but I don't know of any Monster Pro riders here in town... unless they were visiting too!
  8. More "sleuthing" after posting the above revealed that the overall shipment (which I was told, but could not verify, that my Sherman was part of) finally was cleared on July 16th or so, and would be with UPS soon afterwards for final delivery. We left for 2 weeks on July 24, on a trip well out of any internet service, but I assumed it would be waiting for me when I returned home. It wasn't. So, more detective work! I talked to the seller, the customs broker here in Canada, the freight forwarder in Ontario, and even the warehouse where it was (supposedly but not verifiable) sitting awaiti
  9. Anyone interested in a contest for longest wait time? I ordered my Sherman on March 4th. I had tracking information by early April, and found that it had left the Port of Shanghai around April 22nd. That's the last tracking information that I have - that it left China on a ship somewhere around April 22nd. Fast forward to early July, and there's still no updated tracking since April 22nd, so I started getting a little more serious with the seller, asking them to look into where it was and asking what the options are if it is, indeed, lost. It seems most tracking sites (including thos
  10. That's reasonable then - my battery packs had no sealant of any kind, so any moisture that made it past the heat shrink would be stuck there, corroding the terminals. It sounds like you have much better battery waterproofing than I did!
  11. It's probably worth opening up and having a very good look at the battery packs. I'd remove the heat shrink and check for any rust on the cell tabs or ends of any cells. If any of the cell tabs rust through and lose contact, you could have some expensive problems on your hands (even besides the risk of fire etc.). Just be careful and don't touch any terminals with anything metal, to be safe. Replacement heat-shrink is really cheap and easy to install; it's worth having a really close look inside. Trust me, you do not want any problems with battery cells.
  12. I have a cheap 'fast' charger that came with my Gotway Tesla V2; it's supposed to be 5A but only actually outputs between about 2.5 and 3.2A. It doesn't have a display but I use it with a Charge Doctor and plot the charge graphs. The current on it fluctuates constantly from about 2.5 to 3.2A, and the average current drops gradually when in CC mode. Once it gets close to 100% the current drops as you'd expect (CV mode) and at that point, the current is stable. It seems to work just fine; balances the batteries well etc. I've been using it for around 6 months and haven't had any problems; it jus
  13. My 'modified' Tesla V2 with a 1500Wh pack is 47lbs (21kg).
  14. My understanding is that most wheels have a BMS for each pack - although mine is unusual in that it has only one BMS which handles the cell groups in both packs by way of an 11-pin connector (two 10s4P packs of M50T cells). Having a separate BMS in your auxiliary pack is probably the easiest way to go. I don't know enough about how they work to know if you might run into issues having BMSes with different specs - i.e. low voltage protection circuits etc. There may be exceptions but all the wheels I'm familiar with have BMSes contained inside the packs, alongside the cells, all wrapped in heat-
  15. Interesting - is that just as a sort of ultra-low-strength loctite? Never heard of that, but I'm a beekeeper so I have plenty of the stuff. ;-)
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