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Uno Solo

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About Uno Solo

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  1. I gripped the wheel with my calves for stability and additional forward torque leverage. This way I can apply instant and controlled full throttle acceleration. I have been presented with the audio "Overpowered" warnings in the past and eased up on the torque. That time I put so much enthusiasm into the takeoff, the wheel didn't even get to blurt out "Overpowered".
  2. My KS18XL cut out on me before the "Overpowered" warning. I don't have video since it was an impromptu drag race with a sport bike. I do have a broken rib as evidence of the cut out, CAT scans and x-rays. The cut out failure mode needs a solution as well as the 45° cut out. I don't think these are insurmountable tasks. Alarms, warnings, and vibrations are nice, but we should strive for a softer failure mode (perhaps even graceful) helicopters can land with without power, but it felt like the Jesus nut broke when the KS18XL crashed out from under me. I'm still riding though, broken rib and all. 👍
  3. The lift sensor issue still occurs for my wheel. The tilt-over fix was not a reliable solution despite calibrations. I've turned off the lift sensor. My current issue with the trolley handle is stiction. I tried to fix this with a dry spray lubricant, but that ultimately did not work and I think made the stiction worse. Then I switched to a liquid lubricant which helped, but I feel like the dry spray lubricant gummed it up a bit. I think I have to completely disassemble it, clean and lube it, to get it working better again. Also, it seems to become looser with use which appears to add to the stiction issue. With only two screws holding the handle to the retractable rails, there doesn't seem to be a way to make the mechanism very rigid. What is the best lubricant for the trolley handle?
  4. Thank you @Matthieu Pretre !! I had given up on the lift switch feature of my 18XL as simply broken/unreliable. My wheel reproduces the behavior in your video exactly. I will now start my wheel on it's side until this issue is hopefully fixed in firmware.
  5. Hi @palachzzz, Attached is a one-line patch for a tiny bug. git diff WheelData.java diff --git a/app/src/main/java/com/cooper/wheellog/WheelData.java b/app/src/main/java/com/cooper/wheellog/WheelData.java index 1d19dcc..e03cb62 100644 --- a/app/src/main/java/com/cooper/wheellog/WheelData.java +++ b/app/src/main/java/com/cooper/wheellog/WheelData.java @@ -700,7 +700,7 @@ public class WheelData { break; case TEMPERATURE: pattern = new long[]{0, 500, 100, 100, 100, 500, 100, 100, 100, 500, 100, 100, 100}; - mCurrentAlarmExecuted = true; + mTemperatureAlarmExecuted = true; break; } mContext.sendBroadcast(intent); WheelData.java.patch
  6. Yes, when I plug in and turn on the charger, my 18XL does turn on with Bluetooth connecting to my phone. I always have my wheel at full tilt with the charging plug up when charging. Since some people appear to charge their wheels upright on a stand, I presume the firmware keeps the wheel disabled when charging.
  7. Some stainless steel types are ferromagnetic and the link I reference specifies the bolts are mildly-magnetic. I'm certain I would have discovered a lack of magnetism during installation. In any case, the point of this thread is to help others avoid head slapping moments. @Seba Other than anti-corrosion is there another notable benefit to stainless steel? I don't think corrosion is a particular concern of mine. The other benefits outlined for the hex head bolts are still very appealing. However, I would like to be able to sweep with a magnet if things get clumsy. I'm leaning toward steel, black oxide would look nice and zinc plated would work well too.
  8. I like this upgrade idea a lot. I know the specs for the cover screws so this is what I would order: Metric Black-Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel Socket Head Screw (M3 x 0.5 mm Thread, 6 mm Long) Do you recall the specification of the larger bolts holding the wheel to the body? This is definitely going into my toolkit. The one flat tire I've had showed me a few important things about the wheel. 1) The trolley handle is (almost*) useless with a flat, 2) 55 pounds is too much for me to carry a long distance, 3) *the trolley handle is still useful if I turn on the wheel and let it do the work of pulling the flat mess through the body at the possible expense of the tire. Luckily the tire survived, though it suffers 2 notable rhythmic anomalies on smooth surfaces now. I did't find a smaller magnetic parts holder at Harbor Freight. I agree with your weight and size concern and had initially though to substitute a plastic bag. The possibility of spilling screws in gravel or grass made me require a strong magnet. I will be looking at replacing the tray with a plastic bag and strong magnet. Is powertape something different than what we call duct/duck tape here?
  9. @The Fat Unicyclist Your recommendation for the car trim tool is great! You're correct that the flat-head screwdriver bit does gouge both body and the LED cover. I've long stopped caring about cosmetics of my wheel. It is my first wheel so I put horrible scratches on it in the first 5 minutes learning, now after 1000 miles everything just adds "character". @Seba Your wheel looks pristine, except for the telltale screwdriver marks from removing the LED covers. I will add the appropriate bit from this Trim And Molding Tool Set 5 Pc (Pittsburg) to my toolkit. I have the KS-18XL with the larger pedals, and I had already confirmed that the tool has enough reach to removed the pedal screws. I don't think there is much utility of pedal removal in the field, but this tool does have the right size bit and reach if needed.
  10. Hi Joker10, The Multi-Angle Ratcheting Screwdriver (Pittsburg) is the core of my tool kit and it has a number of qualities over a Leatherman or other multi-tool. It is an actual screwdriver, the screwing comfort is important since it is the majority of the work done on the wheel. It includes all of the bits needed for working on a King Song wheel. The multi-angle feature makes it easier to put a good torque on the big bolts holding the wheel to the body. All of the bits can be stored in the handle. The ratcheting feature is nice. $8.99 vs $50.00 minimum for a Leatherman. The Leatherman will have the built in long nose pliers, but with the addition of the 4-3/4 in. Long Nose Pliers (Pittsburg) for $1.99, I have the pliers too all for a total of $10.98.
  11. If you start the wheel with it tilted all the way forward or backward touching the ground it will not attempt to auto balance. If it is on upright and auto balancing you can lean it to either side at greater than a 45° angle to turn off auto balancing. I lean mine against a wall with one light toward the ceiling and the other toward the floor to use as a speaker. How does it work on the 16s?
  12. I have been assembling tools, in a minimalist fashion, to create something touring complete[1]. Based on my experience, this is my first toolkit for King Song Electric Unicycles. (Specifically KS-18XL, 18L) Multi-Angle Ratcheting Screwdriver (Pittsburg) This is the core of the toolkit. The most important bits are the Phillips Head 2 & 3 (PH.2 & PH.3). PH.2 is used for most screws and PH.3 is used for the big screws holding the wheel to the body. Flathead 3 is handy for prying the LED light covers off. Hex 5mm are for removing the foot pedals screws. Hex 4mm fit the bolts on the wheel rim though I've never needed unscrew those. 4-3/4 in. Long Nose Pliers (Pittsburg) The long nose pliers I find handy for delicately pulling light cables through the cover holes, aggressively pulling bent Schrader valves through the rim, breaking zip ties, etc. 4 in. Magnetic Parts Holder (Pittsburg) I consider this a required part of my toolkit. If I manage to put the screws in there, great! If I miss, it will help me find it. In the dirt, grass, Paisley carpet, whatever. Air pump for Schrader valve with gauge I upcycled the hose and gauge for my bicycle pump from this. 1 Tire lever (didn't need two, though two could make it easier) Inner-tube: 18” x 2.5”, Kenda Zip Ties The main power cable is secured by a zip tie. The ones pictured are too short, so I use two. [1] Yes, an Alan Turing reference Please recommend tools and/or post your tool kit.
  13. If you have a new wheel with all of the nuts still in place then @Seba's hot glue solution looks like the way to go. It would be significantly less work than installing backing screws. If I bought a new wheel I would immediately add a big hot glue base to each nut going all the way up and over the top of the nut a little, just like Seba did. If @Stephen Halford released his 3D printer model file, I would be tempted to try his method too. There are 3D printers at many libraries and makerspaces now.
  14. Hi nguymin, That is interesting, mine had holes, but they were too small for the screws. I had to enlarge the holes, which I did with a powered screwdriver and the screws themselves. It was easy since the existing small holes were good pilot holes. If you don't have any hole, a drill would be better. How many standoff nuts have failed so far?
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