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So, my Kingsong died today..


Cloud

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3 minutes ago, Jason McNeil said:

@Cloud, pleased to hear the board arrived. Can you use a multimeter to check the voltage of each pack. Each of these packs has it's own BMS packaged within it & is completely independent. 

I just found an old multimeter, will go out buy a battery for it. Hope it works, will come back soon and will try to get the reading. Thanks

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11 minutes ago, Cloud said:

Ok i did it, the voltage of each pack is approx 53 v. And it shows about 11.6v when i measue it on the male side of the connector between the batteries. What does this mean?

Can you use the slow charger & try charging the battery packs connected together? Failing that, can you see what happens if you attempt to charge each pack individually (again with the slow charger?).

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I just tried something else. I assumed that the battery pack the charger goes directly into is broken and the other one isnt. To test this assumption i connected the charger to the other battery pack via 2 pieces of wire i cut from an old cable. Nothing, same thing, charger is lit green as if its not seeing the battery. I am lost

image.jpeg

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Ok ok, there is hope

i just measured the voltage of both batteries and it appears it has gone up after being connected to the charger. Its a bout 53.6v.  However it may be the battery was kept at a lower temp before i took them out and have warmed up a bit. I will keep charger connected and see what happens. 

However the charger is still lit green and the fan is not on. 

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1 hour ago, SlowMo said:

Have you tried charging the other battery pack?

 

Yes, i connected charger to the other pack but the charger stayed green and charger fan didnt come on. There is a picture of it above

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Have you measured the output voltage from the charger without load? If both of those packs have their own BMSs and neither of them charges, I'd suspect the charger might be broken (or both BMSs have broken?).

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1 hour ago, esaj said:

Have you measured the output voltage from the charger without load? If both of those packs have their own BMSs and neither of them charges, I'd suspect the charger might be broken (or both BMSs have broken?).

Yes i have, its over 67v.  The charger is not broken, charger is in good shape. I tried 3 chargers with the same result.

it must be that both BMSs are broken, not sure how it could have hapoened

i spoke to kingsong and they think its either the battery protection board is broken or more likely they think its the fuse inside the battery ( they call it protection tube)...

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Since the bms in the battery packs seems to be the problem, i assume there will be no harm in opening the batteries up and seeing whats inside. If i cut the blue plastic around it, and then if i want to wrap them again, what can i use? Is the purpose of the plastic to hold the cells together or to separate them from any outside  static electricity or both?. Can i close up later with the same plastic and secure across the cut areas with electrical tape? 

Thanks!

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2 hours ago, OliverH said:

The blue plastic is heat shrink tube.

Thank you Oliver

ive found some heat shrink plastic of similar size on ebay, so its not out of reach, and so ive decided to open up the battery to see what's inside.  Dont really know what i am looking for but i guess we will see..:) ..will try tonight

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@Cloud

Please know that you need to be very careful while opening and even more so after due to the fact that you will have exposed terminals that can short easy.

I have built many A123  life and lipo packs for RC helis and just a momentary short can damage batteries and is scary because of loads of energy inside.

Always be sure to do your best to electrically insulate to prevent short circuits, pay attention with your volt meter as well.

PLEASE post pictures so we all can see well inside your packs, thanks!

Happy New Year to all!

ukj

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok so i opened the shrink wrap on bith batteries and found the fuse. But its hard to see i cant figure out if the fuse is dead or not. Can someone figure this out?  Before i have to solder and take it out ehat if i shortcircuit across the fuse and see if the battery starts charging? Is it dangerous to do?

image.jpeg

 

image.jpeg

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15 minutes ago, Cloud said:

Ok so i opened the shrink wrap on bith batteries and found the fuse. But its hard to see i cant figure out if the fuse is dead or not. Can someone figure this out?  Before i have to solder and take it out ehat if i shortcircuit across the fuse and see if the battery starts charging? Is it dangerous to do?

Hard to say from the picture whether it's burned or not. As for bypassing the fuse & it being dangerous, it depends what caused it to burn (if it is indeed burned) in the first place. If there's something wrong with the pack and fuse burning saved it from further damage, then short-circuiting it with something that won't burn with excessive current is dangerous...

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From what I've understood it is a standard car type fuse that has been soldered in (lot safer for us than being in a holder!) . I believe from other posts it should be 40Amp. I would expect to see a fairly thick bendy metal connection between the two terminals but certainly can't in your photos.

Simplest thing would be to stick a meter set to measure voltage across the two fuse terminals and check there is no voltage, if any voltage is present the fuse is blown. Once sure there is no voltage, change to resistance and check again. If the resistance isn't virtually zero the fuse is blown. 

 

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19 minutes ago, esaj said:

Hard to say from the picture whether it's burned or not. As for bypassing the fuse & it being dangerous, it depends what caused it to burn (if it is indeed burned) in the first place. If there's something wrong with the pack and fuse burning saved it from further damage, then short-circuiting it with something that won't burn with excessive current is dangerous...

I didnt mean to short circuit and install batteries and use them with a possibility of another high current passing thru. I means temporarily short circuit and just connect a charger and see if the batteries charge. Right now they are not charging

17 minutes ago, Keith said:

From what I've understood it is a standard car type fuse that has been soldered in (lot safer for us than being in a holder!) . I believe from other posts it should be 40Amp. I would expect to see a fairly thick bendy metal connection between the two terminals but certainly can't in your photos.

See below from the KS-18 which I had downloaded from another post (apologies I've forgotten who it belongs to)

Simplest thing would be to stick a meter set to measure voltage across the two fuse terminals and check there is no voltage, if any voltage is present the fuse is blown. Once sure there is no voltage, change to resistance and check again. If the resistance isn't virtually zero the fuse is blown. 

image.png

And why didnt i think of that??!!! I must be getting old...the fuse indeed says 40.....Ok im gonna try to get the voltage now

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Just now, Cloud said:

I didnt mean to short circuit and install batteries and use them with a possibility of another high current passing thru. I means temporarily short circuit and just connect a charger and see if the batteries charge. Right now they are not charging

First check whether the fuse is blown as instructed by Keith above (if you have a multimeter). If it is, preferably replace it with another similarly rated fuse. If you choose to short circuit it in another way, please be careful (of course if the packs are otherwise ok, nothing should happen, but I'm always a bit pessimistic when dealing with things that can potentially kill you / cause a lot of damage ;)).

I'm not sure whether that fuse actually affects charging, it's hard to say from the picture, but it looks like it could actually just sit between B- and P- (discharge), but I could be wrong.

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@esaj is right though, if it has blown, something has put quite some load across it and may still be doing so. I'd verify if it has blown first. Logically the fuse would be on the output side, not the charging side but it could be directly in line with the batteries thus disconnecting both charge and discharge.

if you do short it to see if it will take charge, why not do so with a 5 or 10 Amp car fuse, so any load above a charge load will blow fairly safely.

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Ok so there is voltage across the two contacts, about 0.7 v. And 0.75 for the other pack.  Also there is resistance across the contacts of the fuse for both packs, so its broken then....

16 minutes ago, esaj said:

And that's the last we ever heard of him... Just kidding, hopefully ;)

This is very funny. I actually imagined something like that could happen. The only consolation is that right now the batteries are not between my legs like when iam riding this thing

 

before i go thru the trouble of buying the soldering iron and trying to fix this thing i kinda want to know if this is all thats broken . I am tempted to plug in the charge and just connect both contracts with a thin wire to see if it starts charging.  If it doesnt it means something else is broken and im not gonna bother trying to fix it.   I am a bit scared to do this though :)

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