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So, my Kingsong died today..


Cloud

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2 minutes ago, Cloud said:

Thanks a lot, @esaj, i will try to find a small one rated properly. I looked at the links you attached, these seem to be a very large size, mine is about 11 mm wide....but i will look with some other suppliers then....funny thing is, i am pretty sure the original one is rated 32v :) it looks identical to the ones i got from the store :) 

Oh right, sorry, didn't look at the physical dimensions, just that they were blade fuses like typically used in cars.

About the fuse voltage-rating, I've understood that it's mainly about a possible strike-through, ie. with lower rated lower voltage of the fuse (32V for example) than what is really being (up to 67+V), there's a risk of arcing (electricity "jumping" across a gap) within the fuse, so it could still conduct even after the fuse has burned. I don't know what's inside those fuses (whether there's just air or some other gas), but the breakdown voltage of air is pretty high (something like several kilovolts, that's thousands of volts, per millimeter), so I'm not sure whether it's a realistic scenario or not with these voltages. But like said, just to be on the safe side, I'd go with a voltage rating that's higher than the battery voltage.

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41 minutes ago, esaj said:

Oh right, sorry, didn't look at the physical dimensions, just that they were blade fuses like typically used in cars.

About the fuse voltage-rating, I've understood that it's mainly about a possible strike-through, ie. with lower rated lower voltage of the fuse (32V for example) than what is really being (up to 67+V), there's a risk of arcing (electricity "jumping" across a gap) within the fuse, so it could still conduct even after the fuse has burned. I don't know what's inside those fuses (whether there's just air or some other gas), but the breakdown voltage of air is pretty high (something like several kilovolts, that's thousands of volts, per millimeter), so I'm not sure whether it's a realistic scenario or not with these voltages. But like said, just to be on the safe side, I'd go with a voltage rating that's higher than the battery voltage.

So you are saying that during normal operation the lower rating of the fuse doesnt play a role, and this becomes important only when the fuse is burning? Thank you

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6 minutes ago, Cloud said:

So you are saying that during normal operation the lower rating of the fuse doesnt play a role, and this becomes important only when the fuse is burning? Thank you

That's how I've understood it, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Better safe than sorry? It would suck to faceplant due to a fuse burning during normal power usage of the wheel... ;)

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5 minutes ago, esaj said:

That's how I've understood it, but I'm not 100% sure on that. Better safe than sorry? It would suck to faceplant due to a fuse burning during normal power usage of the wheel... ;)

Ok , your argument is quite convincing:)

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I'm pretty sure the larger size is one of the things that gives them a higher voltage rating since they're less likely to flash over. I have to go out today myself to find a fuse, the round glass ones I have are too big to fit into the pack once they are in a fuse holder and they're not easy to solder.

In high current situations I've seen the glass fuses "pop" from the heat when they blow. Some fuses are filled with sand to help absorb the heat and extinguish the arcing. For an application like this it seems any arcing would be short lived and the fuse would eventually do its job, even if it cracked open in the process.

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5 hours ago, phph said:

@Cloud Thank you for this very interesting topic !

Your wheel is working again with the new motherboard ?
(And batteries with new fuses ?)

Yes thank you. New motherboard did the trick. Thanks to @Jason McNeil who sent me one right away, even though i bought this wheel directly from kingsong. Since the fuses were on the bms and not easily replaceable, kingsong was very nice by sending me new battery packs. Again Jason helped me out and brought them over with his euc shipment, so i only had to pay for local postage. Everything's working now!!

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@Cloud Excellent!

@Jane Mo sent me a motherboard for my Gotway MCM2, the original was burnt.
Then I noticed that the engine was also a problem (sudden shocks).

I dismantled the motor today, water had to penetrate through the cable,
Inside was dirty (rust + white paste and moisture residues), and bearings: worn.
Hall sensor was wet too.

I just ordered new bearings (6202-2RS-SKF)
I hope that after a good internal cleaning and changing the bearings, it will walk away!

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I wonder if cleaning with alcohol first and then applying a small bead of silicone sealer around the motor housing rim on both sides and the cable entry (?) might help make things water-tight for the long run.  How waterproof are the electric motors in general?  Do they normally apply some sort of rubber seal before screwing down the motor covers?

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I think it is waterproof, motor covers are fitted added a lightweight silicone gasket Tred (I guess).
There was also the silicone on the cable outlet in the motor, but this was partially off.
I will re-put silicone (Loctite 5990 seems to be a good product also for electrical application).
Gotway use a product called "BG Sidun flame retardant" but this product is not available in my country.
Loctite 243 on the cover screws, Loctite 263 on the axis of the stator (nut pedals).

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