Ksmack Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 29 minutes ago, goodsignal said: It has been 2 years since this thread started and activity has fallen off considerably. Are people generally not having issues with suspension anymore? I figured that KS had resolved the issues by now. The reason I'm asking is because I just bought a KS-S18 new from RevRides a month ago and it is definitely biding. Feeling bummed Mine is a few months old. Molicel version from eWheels. I had bonding and other issues when I got it. I’ve now mostly ironed those out, but it has be a lot of work. I would not buy this wheel again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldFartRides Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Welcome to the s18 club. I rode mine for nine months as is, then then did a tear down of both new and used s18’s. I have. I didn’t have to replace the suspension bearings, but got some spacers and shims in some strategic places and “hand machined” the sliders/ axle clamps. That said, damage can be done if they are still using lock washers as spacers on the suspension pivot points. Partial teardown might be in order, but it can turn into a can of worms. Depends on how handy and willing you are… I still really like my s-18’s. Best, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Brahan Seer Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 I still love my S18 , I rode mine for a year or so before changing all the screws and bolts to stainless steel. Only because I use it all year round in my part of the world which is very wet and damp a lot so these things rust quickly. I haven't had major suspension issues (3000miles in), I also like a firmer ride but one day i should probably take a look at it too. Unfortunately it seems to be luck of the draw with the QC whether its built well from the get go. The advantage is you will learn so much and its invaluable to know how your wheel is constructed since we depend on it keeping us upright at all times. In a way this hobby is too new to just be able to buy any wheel and forget about it and ride. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoleCycle Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 4 hours ago, OldFartRides said: Depends on how handy and willing you are… I can be handy. And I can be willing. But honestly, I've just never spent this much money on something 'fun' for myself before. Living in the US, I guess I've gotten used to the privilege of things being built well and reliable when more money is spent. I'm unexpectedly grappling with having to invest more time and money into it, not to mod or improve it, but to simply get it to where it should be out of the box. That's a rough realization. The S18 definitely feels like it could be great. I guess I was anticipating more of an adventure hobby than a tinkering with parts hobby. 4 hours ago, OldFartRides said: but got some spacers and shims in some strategic places and “hand machined” the sliders/ axle clamps. So, where are the best guides for this? I keep reading posts where this is mentioned but haven't come across something that elaborates what is going on here, why it should be done, and how to do it. On the same note, people keep referring to some metal block between the sliders and an 'infamous' modification, yet I haven't found a post that does any more than mention it. The closest I've found is a photo of someone showing the wheel post modification which shows it NOT there, thus remaining a mystery to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Brahan Seer Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 11 minutes ago, goodsignal said: So, where are the best guides for this? I keep reading posts where this is mentioned but haven't come across something that elaborates what is going on here, why it should be done, and how to do it You are at a pretty good resource on this thread if you go back to page 3 onwards for idea's and others solutions. I know it looks daunting so maybe see if its something that can be easily rectified rather than doing a full strip down and rebuild. Can you see where its binding and isolate the problem area? I once had an issue with the mudguard after changing a tyre and ended up using a paddle pop stick hot glued to the side to stop it rubbing. A bit of a hack but it worked. Check for signs of wear on paint/plastic etc. There are some photo's and video's on this thread earlier to check out too. Just bear in mind your wheel might be different to theirs due to batch number etc but it will at least give you an idea of what you are looking at. Sorry I can't be more help ultimately if the suspension is so bad that it barely works maybe better to speak with your reseller to fix instead. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldFartRides Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 P.S. There’s two major threads on this topic. Start reading in your spare time. Watch the K.S. Disassembly / assembly vid. In the meantime, ride your wheel. Winter is not that far off. You can also lock the shock and ride it using your legs as shock absorbers. Plenty of folks ride non-suspension wheels. Best, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Brahan Seer Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 4 minutes ago, OldFartRides said: You can also lock the shock and ride it using your legs as shock absorbers Thats a very good point, sounds stupid but check the setting on this too. I have ridden around thinking my suspension is goosed getting really bad jarring on pot holes etc only to find I had knocked the suspension to off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 (edited) 22 hours ago, OldFartRides said: I didn’t have to replace the suspension bearings, but got some spacers and shims in some strategic places and “hand machined” the sliders/ axle clamps. The axle mount point on the 2 sliders will most likely be out of alignment with each other, causing binding when the 8 axle bolts are tightened sufficiently! See the link posted below for photos showing where this error needs to be corrected (Also still needing shims, due to the axles themselves being machined with a taper towards the end where the cable exits) 16 hours ago, goodsignal said: So, where are the best guides for this? I keep reading posts where this is mentioned but haven't come across something that elaborates what is going on here, why it should be done, and how to do it. 16 hours ago, OldFartRides said: P.S. There’s two major threads on this topic. Start reading in your spare time. Watch the K.S. Disassembly / assembly vid. @goodsignal, along with the very good advice offered by the other Forum members here, you may find some useful information/photos/descriptions in this topic I wrote after tackling a Full Overhaul of my S18, "straight out of the box", back in 2020: Edited August 31, 2022 by fbhb 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 (edited) Information provided by Ecodrift about the upgraded S18 V2 with New motor and sliders. Edited September 8, 2022 by fbhb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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