eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 1 minute ago, Feynman said: Currently I'm using only bushings for the shaft rotation, but am trying some thrust bearings to keep the arms from binding with the sliders, body and each other. You could definitely use the bearings instead of bushings. I'll post pics and all parts I'm using once I land on a final design. I'm OCD and am on the 15th iteration or so of bushings. :-D Thx man. I havent even rode my S18 because the fender is rubbing the tyre and the motor cable is not aligned properly so it rubs against the outer shell when suspension moves. I have to take it apart completly so might aswell just fix the whole thing. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the0r1st Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 54 minutes ago, eve said: Thx man. I havent even rode my S18 because the fender is rubbing the tyre and the motor cable is not aligned properly so it rubs against the outer shell when suspension moves. I have to take it apart completly so might aswell just fix the whole thing. kind of like this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 @the0r1st cant tell from the video. Take pic of your fender from the front. Mine ist misaligned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 On 9/11/2020 at 8:55 AM, Feynman said: You're going to have the best S18 in existence! I can't wait to see the results! Time will tell but thanks. I have no doubt you mods will be superb. The new suspension links arrived and appear to be refined in terms of both the bearing depth smoothness of the bearing’s rotation . All of the plunge depths appear to be equal which will make it easier for fabricating bushings. The pockets I had planned to use for the thrust bearings has been diminished as well. I’m not sure there enough material to plunge the mill into. Even though my thrust bearings arrived I may not use them. I have nylon tubing used for bushings arriving Monday that I’ll experiment with. This will be a lengthy job but currently I don’t have any plans to change out the 14 pivot bearing on the new links as they appear perfect. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 2 minutes ago, Rehab1 said: Time will tell but thanks. I have no doubt you mods will be superb. The new suspension links arrived and appear to be refined in terms of both the bearing depth smoothness of the bearing’s rotation . All of the plunge depths appear to be equal which will make it easier for fabricating bushings. The pockets I had planned to use for the thrust bearings has been diminished as well. I’m not sure there enough material to plunge the mill into. Even though my thrust bearings arrived I may not use them. I have nylon tubing used for bushings arriving Monday that I’ll experiment with. This will be a lengthy job but currently I don’t have any plans to change out the 14 pivot bearing on the new links as they appear perfect. Nice! Glad they're improving their processes. How much for a new set of arms? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rehab1 Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Feynman said: Nice! Glad they're improving their processes. How much for a new set of arms? I wanted to take comparison photos but I’m at the lake and the S18 is at work. I started pushing out the bearings on the original set. Now I understand why KS painted the arms after inserting the bearings. The gold finish would have been marred if the bearings were pressed into place after painting. I had a credit so it absorbed the cost. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Rehab1 said: I started pushing out the bearings on the original set. Now I understand why KS painted the arms after inserting the bearings. The gold finish would have been marred if the bearings were pressed into place after painting. I've marred my arms up pretty good. I guess I could strip them and repaint them 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 1 hour ago, Feynman said: I've marred my arms up pretty good. I guess I could strip them and repaint them Or you could strip them, polish out all the marks and then just leave them with a highly polished alloy finish! That would look way cool! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 @Feynman Thats okay. I marred my motor cables when disassembling. It was fight to the death with silicon glue vs screw driver. Will probably put on some silicon glue on it and insulation tape. I think the wires werent damaged just bit dented. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 54 minutes ago, fbhb said: Or you could strip them, polish out all the marks and then just leave them with a highly polished alloy finish! That would look way cool! True! Bare aluminum might look cool. I could get them anodized, AR15 style. That would be sweet 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 45 minutes ago, eve said: @Feynman Thats okay. I marred my motor cables when disassembling. It was fight to the death with silicon glue vs screw driver. Will probably put on some silicon glue on it and insulation tape. I think the wires werent damaged just bit dented. They were pretty ebullient when applying the silicon on mine as well. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 4 minutes ago, Feynman said: True! Bare aluminum might look cool. I could get them anodized, AR15 style. That would be sweet Yeah man, I also think that with the amount of work you are putting into your personal S18, it would just be a nice touch for it to Not Outwardly Look like Standard! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 12, 2020 Well, I think I've landed on a final design. Have I said that previously? Probably. Anyway, I'm going to try and find some 10mm ID teflon washers and then put her back together. Very little friction now at full tightness on all bolts. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 I just want to fix mine with bearings. But i have no idea what spacers/washers i need and coming into a hardware store with that suspension seems silly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, eve said: I just want to fix mine with bearings. But i have no idea what spacers/washers i need and coming into a hardware store with that suspension seems silly. At a minimum I'd put a teflon spacer/washer at all the connections on both barrel post ends and in between the two arms at the middle connection. I'm currently using these, and they work, but the ID is bigger than I'd like: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Washer-3-4-OD-1-32-thk-PTFE-Plastic-Insulating-Fastener-Z78070/392789577456?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=661675992196&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Edited September 12, 2020 by Feynman 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 2 minutes ago, Feynman said: At a minimum I'd put a teflon spacer/washer at all the connections on both barrel post ends and in between the two arms at the middle connection. Some connections have bearings in parallel do i need a spacer between them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, eve said: Some connections have bearings in parallel do i need a spacer between them? No, I wouldn't put a spacer between bearings, just between the moving parts. I'd also try some of those 10mm speed washers wherever a bolt tightens against a bearing. The link is somewhere in this thread. I'll find it and insert it below. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036R4REO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Edited September 12, 2020 by Feynman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 9 minutes ago, eve said: Some connections have bearings in parallel do i need a spacer between them? I also made some gf nylon bushings to go on the outsides of the arm to arm connections. If you want a set, let me know where to mail it and I'll print you one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 (edited) Hmm. I dont want to use metal washers on any contacts. Btw, I had a lot of fun diassembling the wheel. I really like how its constructed aside from the fight with silicon grease and taking out the fender i had no problems. Im from EU so i dont think the postage would be cheap. @Feynman @fbhb Btw In the ecodrift guide. Do they actually groove into the seats or are they just taking the paint down? Edited September 12, 2020 by eve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feynman Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 2 minutes ago, eve said: Hmm. I dont want to use metal washers on any contacts. Btw, I had a lot of fun diassembling the wheel. I really like how its constructed aside from the fight with silicon grease and taking out the fender i had no problems. Im from EU so i dont think the postage would be cheap. It's just to bind the inner race to the bolt/barrel post. Same as on a skateboard bearing. I agree the wheel is designed very well. A lot of engineering went into it for sure. Wish they'd been as thorough with the assembly and details. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 12, 2020 Share Posted September 12, 2020 11 minutes ago, Feynman said: It's just to bind the inner race to the bolt/barrel post. Same as on a skateboard bearing. I agree the wheel is designed very well. A lot of engineering went into it for sure. Wish they'd been as thorough with the assembly and details. Yeah. The biggest fail is actually not the suspension. Its stupid fender. Its a two-piece mold held together by multiple screws. What could go wrong? They just just make it one mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 (edited) 7 hours ago, eve said: @fbhb Btw In the ecodrift guide. Do they actually groove into the seats or are they just taking the paint down? EcoDrift were only removing the paint that they found in the bearing pockets of some of their S18's, whilst overhauling their entire stock of the wheel (at least a dozen S18's apparently!) Edited September 13, 2020 by fbhb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 23 minutes ago, fbhb said: EcoDrift were only removing the paint that they found in the bearing pockets of some of their S18's, whilst overhauling their entire stock of the wheel (at least a dozen S18's apparently!) Maybe something lost in traslation. They also said they removing the paint "because the bearing cant move if there is paint". Which is ridiculous considering the bearing should not move at all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fbhb Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 3 hours ago, eve said: Maybe something lost in translation. They also said they removing the paint "because the bearing cant move if there is paint". Which is ridiculous considering the bearing should not move at all. Yes, there is definitely a misunderstanding here! What they meant about removing the paint "because the bearing can't move if there is paint" is that when King Song left paint inside the pockets of some linkages, it would have decreased the internal diameter of the bearing pockets. Subsequently any bearings pressed into a pocket that is basically "Too Tight" a fit will in turn be forced to close up on it's own tolerances and therefore unable to rotate freely! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eve Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 1 hour ago, fbhb said: Yes, there is definitely a misunderstanding here! What they meant about removing the paint "because the bearing can't move if there is paint" is that when King Song left paint inside the pockets of some linkages, it would have decreased the internal diameter of the bearing pockets. Subsequently any bearings pressed into a pocket that is basically "Too Tight" a fit will in turn be forced to close up on it's own tolerances and therefore unable to rotate freely! Thats what i though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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