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S18 Suspension Overhaul


Feynman

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5 minutes ago, Mark Wilson said:

Gotcha. I have a Creality Cr-10 and, if I remember correctly, if you try printing with a nozzle temp over 250 C you can damage the PTFE filament guide tube.

I've got three or four creality printers as well.  They've been hit or miss for me.  I have to level the bed on every print and sometimes they still have issues.  The great thing about the F410 is it just works every time with zero fuss.  Of course, I could buy 12 - 15 crealities for the price...

Btw --  the Qidi X-Plus printer is really really great for the money. 

Edited by Feynman
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9 minutes ago, Beachboy said:

Why ecodrift used so much washers in their tutorial?I dont get it, are the bearing holes offset that much?

Some of the bearing pockets (C, D - see my pictures in this thread for reference) are countersunk by 1-2mm.  

I'll have my parts list and procedure finished this week and show you exactly what you need and where it goes.

Edited by Feynman
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okay, but they said to put 4mm washer to the axel..

Check out one the bushing picture with washers all over it..(sorry cant upload pic)

 

I will be waiting for your post for the procedure & list of parts needed..🙏🙏

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3 minutes ago, Beachboy said:

okay, but they said to put 4mm washer to the axel..

Check out one the bushing picture with washers all over it..(sorry cant upload pic)

 

It looks like they're replacing some of their bearings with a stack of washers.  If they're 19mm OD this is probably ok.  I opted for the custom bushing route because I'm OCD and have a 3D printer that can printer fiber reinforced nylon.

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as stated, the washer size is 10x14 and if they did have 19mm OD for replacing some bearings, how strong are those washers anyway...

I hope your 3D printed bushings can take a lot of beating especially when used in offroad tracks...

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4 minutes ago, Beachboy said:

as stated, the washer size is 10x14 and if they did have 19mm OD for replacing some bearings, how strong are those washers anyway...

I hope your 3D printed bushings can take a lot of beating especially when used in offroad tracks...

Glass or carbon fiber reinforced nylon is pretty tough

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Just did a (failed) test run with gf reinforced nylon and can tell you this stuff is extremely robust.  I have zero worries that these bushings will fail.  Now to try to get them to stick to the print bed! 

Edited by Feynman
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F**k...🤬🤬🤬🤬... one of the bolt head in the middle the one with oversized washer got destroyed when I open it...those bolt quality sucks.. and the worst is I cannot find any replacement 😭😭😭😭😭😭

 

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8 minutes ago, Beachboy said:

F**k...🤬🤬🤬🤬... one of the bolt head in the middle the one with oversized washer got destroyed when I open it...those bolt quality sucks.. and the worst is I cannot find any replacement 😭😭😭😭😭😭

 

Yup, they're shit quality.  These are what I'm using as replacements:

https://www.belmetric.com/coarse-thread-round-c-563_578_1206_1962/nround6x25ss-standoff-round-coupler-stainless-p-8651.html

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L56Z4SY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/M6-1-0-Flanged-Button-Socket-Stainless/dp/B07PSDDQ4R/ref=sr_1_25?dchild=1&keywords=m6+12+bolt&qid=1599670385&sr=8-25

Edited by Feynman
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Just now, Beachboy said:

I havent measured the bushing lenght but is it really 25mm?Thought would be longer

also, when I press the suspension down with no air, I noticed something rubbing the fender, any idea what make the sound?

Yup, it's 25mm.  Maybe the tire is rubbing the fender?

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1 minute ago, null said:

BTW consider torx heads if you replace screws, they take more torque than classic hex.

I thought about this, but I don't have l-shaped torx wrenches to get into those tight inside connections

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1 minute ago, Rehab1 said:

@Feynman your fantastic R&D on the S18 suspension made me break my vow to my wife. I swore that my wheel modification days were over.

50328553421_5c739a631e_b.jpg

So what’s the current record for split washers? I just removed 2 from inside the arm and 1 on the outside bilaterally- total 6. 

50327887358_c9bfd2602e_b.jpg50327931958_9a930cedd0_b.jpg


I’m currently experimenting with thrust bearings  with but your creative 3D bushings would definitely be less expensive. Looking forward to seeing your finished design. 

50328728417_18b6e6f66a_b.jpg

I have another set of suspension arms arriving tomorrow courtesy of Jason. My mods will require additional machining so with spares I can go full tilt without worrying about destroying the entire set up. 

Man that's awesome!  Machining pockets for thrust bearings is definitely the way to go if you've got the equipment!

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1 minute ago, Feynman said:

Man that's awesome!  Machining pockets for thrust bearings is definitely the way to go if you've got the equipment!

Thanks! You certainly have performed a vast amount of research that has helped me tremendously. 

The whole machining process would be easier if I can find the exact end mill bit with a 10mm pilot. I’m using a cross slide milling vise secured to a drill press so I expect to have a few chatters when the pockets are modified. 

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11 hours ago, Rehab1 said:

Thanks! You certainly have performed a vast amount of research that has helped me tremendously. 

The whole machining process would be easier if I can find the exact end mill bit with a 10mm pilot. I’m using a cross slide milling vise secured to a drill press so I expect to have a few chatters when the pockets are modified. 

You're going to have the best S18 in existence!  I can't wait to see the results!

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Just now, eve said:

@Feynman Does your setup use bushing only? I would like to keep the bearings. They move more freely then bushings.

Currently I'm using only bushings for the shaft rotation, but am trying some thrust bearings to keep the arms from binding with the sliders, body and each other.  You could definitely use the bearings instead of bushings.  I'll post pics and all parts I'm using once I land on a final design.  I'm OCD and am on the 15th iteration or so of bushings. :-D

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