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Gotway Tesla - Split shell / change tyre or tube - the FAST and safe way


Boogieman
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After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes.

Here goes.

NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1.

1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part.

Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides.

Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better)

PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE.

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2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability)

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3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side.

Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender

Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way

NOTE!!!

If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof)

 

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4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side.

Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking)

8jwwYK2.jpg

 

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5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together

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6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone).

If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head)

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7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side.

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8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and

DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover

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9. Ready to change tyre or tube

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10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow)

Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift  the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times.

Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy)

 

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Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-)

I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted.

Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins

 

hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding ;)

 

 

 

 

 

Spoiler

 

 

Edited by Boogieman
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  • 1 month later...

Thank yo for this tutorial.

I would like to change the tyre for winter season but when I watched some videos showing how much of Tesla you needed to disassemble in order to change the tyre I got scared. Your method seems much more easy.

There is one thing - I have Tesla V2. Does anyone knows if BT speaker or motor killswitch cables are in the way? Or in general - do any updates in V2 comparing to V1 make this disassembly method not possible?

 

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