Search the Community

After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes. NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better) PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding

I was out riding with some friends, recording with the GoPro, etc as usual. Some holes are less visible than others and I wasn't paying much attention. Usually I will scan before turning away. This time I did not.. and I adjusted my feet and posture as well which I usually do rather stiff legged. And also.. I was riding squishy FW 1.05. I went down into a little hole... and out again.. the wheel slowed down going out... my body continued forward... I started to fall off the front, the wheel tried to speed up but I fell off the front anyway. Took a few steps, rolled my left ankle on the fourth step. Fell down on my right forearm and knee, then my right hip made contact and my body did a corkscrew so that I ended up on my right side towards my back. So.. some scrapes... but man.. the wheel fell badly. I would have rather taken more hits just spare the wheel man!!! Spare the wheel! Take me instead! Here is what the wheel sounds like now. There is a big difference in noise between FW 1.05 and FW 2.02. The pedal hanger is a bit bent but it is good enough. I will suit up tomorrow or the day after and ride it. After 8400km I can't really be bothered to throw money at this wheel.. even though I do love it. Here is a clip I made... the first 45 seconds contains the important parts. I didn't have any pictures of myself in shock that I could use as a thumbnail so I hope a shot of the internals will suffice.

... sorry for dragging my feet on this last vid. Turns out teardown vids are really tough to try to make not boring *smh....

Hi all, I recently bought a used Solowheel Xtreme. Rode it for about 20 minutes, then sparks came out of it and it stopped running. Took it apart to find that the metal snapped where one of the pedals (crank arm) is supposed to attach to the axle. The main thick cable (I assume to motor cable) also got cut since it goes through the crank arm. I am confident I can rewire the thick cable, but to do that it seems I have to get inside the motor. To get inside the motor, I would probably either have to remove the crank that is still attached to the axle, or possibly remove the material on the side of the wheel. Anyone know how to do this? Also, anyone know of a source for a new axle/crank assembly? It looks like the Solowheel Xtreme is not manufactured any longer. Attaching photos of what the damage looks like.