Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'shell'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Electric Unicycle Forums
    • Forum Rules (and topics relating to this forum)
    • General Discussion
    • Videos
    • Reviews
    • Which Electric Unicycle to get?
    • Where to buy?
    • Learning to Ride
    • Advanced Skills and Tricks
    • Riding Safety and Protective Gear
    • Apps and App-related Gadgets
    • Mods, Repairs, & DIY
    • Tires
    • Local Group Meet Ups
    • Private Sales (secondhand)
    • Commercial Advertisements
    • Video-Making and Gear
    • Off Topic Discussion
    • Testing Only
  • Brand-Specific Forums (EUC only)
    • Begode (Gotway) and Extreme Bull
    • Inmotion
    • Inmotion Official Announcements and Information
    • King Song
    • King Song Official Announcements and Information (Currently Inactive)
    • Veteran
  • Inactive EUC brands
    • Airwheel
    • Firewheel
    • IPS
    • IRON Korea and Rockwheel
    • Ninebot
    • Solowheel
    • Uniwheel
  • One-Wheeled Skateboards
    • One-Wheeled Skateboards
  • Two-Wheeled Self-Balancing PEVs
    • Ninebot Mini, Segway MiniPRO, Xiaomi Mini, Airwheel S8 or equivalent
    • Segway (or equivalent)
    • Hoverboard
    • Commercial Advertisements (Ninebot Mini & equivalent only)
  • Non-Self-Balancing PEVs
    • e-Scooters
    • Other Non-Self-Balancing PEVs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


EUC

Found 6 results

  1. Where I can buy outer shell for Inmotion V8? Not V8F/S. Mainly in Europe, but anywhere from Word is good. :) I found only at eucshop.lt, but finally they told Me, this is just for V8F.
  2. I was driving around for 1200km on my GT16 and the paint has been rubbed off where my shoes touch the surface on some points: After my second accident there were some scratches and cracks in the shell and some screws ripped off, too. This resulted in a soft and weak shell that was usable but the tire was rubbing when I went on the wheel with one foot first. Maybe because of this structurally softness I lost my fender when going offroad - I don't know but some day I had a wet ass and back when I was coming home ... So I thought I need a new shell, new fender and some new sidecovers and went to AliExpress: base shell $200.00 sidecover $70.00 /piece? fender $50.00 (wow ~2$/gram !!!) top cover $90.00 (now with led voltmeter) Gaiter Pad $32.00 /Pair ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Result $512.00 (when I need 2x sidecover) That's €420.- or 1722.- Reichsmark 80 years in the past (I'm from Germany) - a 1938 KDF Typ 60 'Volkswagen' should cost RM990.- when delivered When the plastic parts for my Rockwheel GT16 are more expensive than a 1938 Volkswagen I think I first have to check if I REALLY, REALLY NEED THIS. Short answer is: NOT NOW !!! I first dismantled everything and fixed the cracks in the shell with 2k glue, cutted the lower shell-parts off (which always scratched on bigger stones and curb edges in some situations) and reinforced the lower screwholes with another 2k filling material for wood. This material is hard and sticks well on the plastic but it's soft enough to not crack off when turning a screw in. First I thought about a cool shiny lamborghini yellow high glossy paint - but then I tended to a much more rough and tank-like styling. I choosed a 2k polyurethane color also known as 'bedliner' for pickup-trucks. I brush dabbed the colour by hand to get a light texture to the surface. If there are some bigger scratches or damages on the paint in the future it is more easy to dab with the brush invisibly. I changed all toy-like screws from the shell to high quality German 'Würth Assy' screws and mounted everything together. I generated a new fender (from a set of MTB plastic fenders for a few bucks) which fits in the old place - Simply to put in and out but not possible to slide anymore because of its different geometry. Now the shell is in excellent condition and when I step on the wheel with one foot first there is no rubbing and scrubbing anymore. Better than new and I think the shell was never that stiff before because even when it was new, while riding on one leg there always was a very slightly scrubbing. Although my method was so oldschool, the new painting looks much better than the original one that was made in China with spraygun where several places on the shell were not covered well with colour from all points of view. Additionally there is one big psychological advantage : on the next accident (and this is surely just a matter of time) I will only think "oh shit !!! Will my sunglasses survive ?" while my mind will stay totally cool about the shell. For the whole operation I paid not more than €50/$60 (bedliner:0.75ltr/€16.50 hardener:€3.50 MTB-Fender-set:€16,95) glue,2k-stuff,screws,sandpaper and some solvents were things I already had at home. Next things on my todo list is: Replace the non-water/dirtproof backlight max. €2.50 Replace the (crap-shitty-dark) frontlight max. €2.50 Add Mini-Voltmeter on the mainboard cover max. €3.00 Add some aditional LED's (but not crappy circus-style) max. €8.00 I have ordered these already on Amazon but I have to wait some time for delivery. The first frontlight LED has already arrived and I measured with a Lightmeter: Original GT16 Frontlight = 1900 Lux versus New LED frontlight = 6600 Lux It's a huge difference even without without measuring clearly visible with my eyes Because I ordered some different types of frontlights, I will wait until everything has been arrived and then choose the best one. I will make some pictures and a post from the electrical modification then, too.
  3. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes. NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better) PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  4. Read more on project page: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki EGG Electric Unicycle is a DIY and OpenSource design that can be customized for specific needs (more batteries, powerful motor, lights, etc). Main characteristics of current version: Max velocity up to 30km/h 2 battery packs making a total of 264W (range of 20kms on flat roads with a rider of 100kgs) 500W motor, 14 inches wheel Bluetooth for configuration and reading in real time the speed, current, board temperature, etc Video promotional: Video "EGG Electric Unicycle - promotion at Makerfaire Lisbon":
  5. Coming from a KS16S, I'm thinking to buy this great 16". I know it's as not as carefully finished as the Kingsong's, that it has not the real light, that the pedals are a little low (I don't know if lower than the KS-16S) and so on. I've read and heard feedbacks from a few owners and they are almost enthusiastic about its ride feeling and experience it gives. I drove it for a few miles just to test and it seems a solid EUC, maybe a little bit heavier (in riding, i'm not talking about its weigh) than KS-16S but nothing I cannot get used to. There's one that confuses me yet. The quality of its shell. I mean the plastic pieces the cover the core of the EUC. I've a friend that months ago crashed his Tesla, not a big accident, and seriously damaged its shell. He tried to fix it with scotch tape just to "survive" for a period and then he decided to buy the replacements from AliExpress to bring back its EUC to his original shape. It costed him hundred of dollars. After a few months I think he had troubles again (I dunno what happened) but it seems the shell is broken again. He knows I'm going to buy the Tesla and a few minutes ago he sent me a message with the picture I attach: "Don't go for Tesla, it's a great wheel but damn it broke again in the very same place as before! I think I will soon go for another wheel, I'm tired to fix this Tesla!" Is this Tesla really so weak and cheap in its building quality? Or was my friend particularly unlucky?!
  6. Whole original white shell for Luffy, in like new condition (see pictures below). PRICE : 120$ + shipping Sold without any screw. Please contact me for any information.
×
×
  • Create New...