Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'shell'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Electric Unicycle Forums
    • Forum Rules (and topics relating to this forum)
    • General Discussion
    • Reviews
    • Mods, Repairs, & DIY
    • Riding Safety and Protective Gear
    • Local Group Meet Ups
    • Private Sales (secondhand)
    • Commercial Advertisements & Deals
    • Off Topic Discussion
  • Brand-Specific Forums (euc only)
    • Airwheel
    • Firewheel
    • Gotway
    • Inmotion
    • IPS
    • King Song
    • Ninebot
    • Rockwheel
    • Solowheel
    • Uniwheel
  • One-Wheeled Skateboards
    • One-Wheeled Skateboards
    • Advertisements (One-Wheeled Skateboards)
  • Two-Wheeled Self-Balancing PEVs
    • Hoverboard
    • Ninebot Mini, Segway MiniPRO, Xiaomi Mini, Airwheel S8 or equivalent
    • Segway (or equivalent)
    • Advertisements (Two-Wheeled Self-Balancing)
  • Non-Self-Balancing PEVs
    • e-Scooters
    • Other Non-Self-Balancing PEVs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 9 results

  1. I was driving around for 1200km on my GT16 and the paint has been rubbed off where my shoes touch the surface on some points: After my second accident there were some scratches and cracks in the shell and some screws ripped off, too. This resulted in a soft and weak shell that was usable but the tire was rubbing when I went on the wheel with one foot first. Maybe because of this structurally softness I lost my fender when going offroad - I don't know but some day I had a wet ass and back when I was coming home ... So I thought I need a new shell, new fender and some new sidecovers and went to AliExpress: base shell $200.00 sidecover $70.00 /piece? fender $50.00 (wow ~2$/gram !!!) top cover $90.00 (now with led voltmeter) Gaiter Pad $32.00 /Pair ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Result $512.00 (when I need 2x sidecover) That's €420.- or 1722.- Reichsmark 80 years in the past (I'm from Germany) - a 1938 KDF Typ 60 'Volkswagen' should cost RM990.- when delivered When the plastic parts for my Rockwheel GT16 are more expensive than a 1938 Volkswagen I think I first have to check if I REALLY, REALLY NEED THIS. Short answer is: NOT NOW !!! I first dismantled everything and fixed the cracks in the shell with 2k glue, cutted the lower shell-parts off (which always scratched on bigger stones and curb edges in some situations) and reinforced the lower screwholes with another 2k filling material for wood. This material is hard and sticks well on the plastic but it's soft enough to not crack off when turning a screw in. First I thought about a cool shiny lamborghini yellow high glossy paint - but then I tended to a much more rough and tank-like styling. I choosed a 2k polyurethane color also known as 'bedliner' for pickup-trucks. I brush dabbed the colour by hand to get a light texture to the surface. If there are some bigger scratches or damages on the paint in the future it is more easy to dab with the brush invisibly. I changed all toy-like screws from the shell to high quality German 'Würth Assy' screws and mounted everything together. I generated a new fender (from a set of MTB plastic fenders for a few bucks) which fits in the old place - Simply to put in and out but not possible to slide anymore because of its different geometry. Now the shell is in excellent condition and when I step on the wheel with one foot first there is no rubbing and scrubbing anymore. Better than new and I think the shell was never that stiff before because even when it was new, while riding on one leg there always was a very slightly scrubbing. Although my method was so oldschool, the new painting looks much better than the original one that was made in China with spraygun where several places on the shell were not covered well with colour from all points of view. Additionally there is one big psychological advantage : on the next accident (and this is surely just a matter of time) I will only think "oh shit !!! Will my sunglasses survive ?" while my mind will stay totally cool about the shell. For the whole operation I paid not more than €50/$60 (bedliner:0.75ltr/€16.50 hardener:€3.50 MTB-Fender-set:€16,95) glue,2k-stuff,screws,sandpaper and some solvents were things I already had at home. Next things on my todo list is: Replace the non-water/dirtproof backlight max. €2.50 Replace the (crap-shitty-dark) frontlight max. €2.50 Add Mini-Voltmeter on the mainboard cover max. €3.00 Add some aditional LED's (but not crappy circus-style) max. €8.00 I have ordered these already on Amazon but I have to wait some time for delivery. The first frontlight LED has already arrived and I measured with a Lightmeter: Original GT16 Frontlight = 1900 Lux versus New LED frontlight = 6600 Lux It's a huge difference even without without measuring clearly visible with my eyes Because I ordered some different types of frontlights, I will wait until everything has been arrived and then choose the best one. I will make some pictures and a post from the electrical modification then, too.
  2. Jack Clode

    Upgrade from MCM4

    Hi, a few months ago I bought a MCM4 and I'm loving it. Looking to upgrade to a bigger GotWay product, something like ACM or mSuper, I think monster is too big for me. Which model do you think is the best to ride in the city. Also, I want to give my MCM to my cousin, but the shell is a little damaged. Is it possible to replace it?
  3. Read more on project page: https://github.com/EGG-electric-unicycle/documentation/wiki EGG Electric Unicycle is a DIY and OpenSource design that can be customized for specific needs (more batteries, powerful motor, lights, etc). Main characteristics of current version: Max velocity up to 30km/h 2 battery packs making a total of 264W (range of 20kms on flat roads with a rider of 100kgs) 500W motor, 14 inches wheel Bluetooth for configuration and reading in real time the speed, current, board temperature, etc Video promotional: Video "EGG Electric Unicycle - promotion at Makerfaire Lisbon":
  4. Hi Guys, I am one of the very people in London commuting daily to work on my Gotway MSuper V3. I stay on the bike lanes and have my full protective gear on top of my suit. Needless to say that I have saved a lot of money on public transport since I started riding my EUC to work. However the outer shell did take some battering whilst learning so it needs a facelift for sure and was wondering if anyone can advise me on my options? i.e. where to buy an outer shell and how to change it myself. Thanking you in advance for your help.
  5. Pictures below will show you how to assemble an electric unicycle step by step, components are all available on Alibaba. Any questions related, please feel free to ask me.
  6. Hey Guys, Thought I would share. 3D printed a body for my Fasion Micro Works Motor and Controller. I had to print the parts in smaller segments and hold things together with nuts and bolts but so far it's been working great. I took a couple of spills as well and it didn't do too badly. I've recently changed my design a little bit and am in the process of reprinting. Hopefully soon I'll have the new one together. My newer version is a bit easier to put together and is a little less wide for more comfort when I ride. Hope you all like. I can share the STL files if anyone whats to have a go. You just need to make sure you print everything with the Z axis as the direction of least force. So most every part on it's side. I was also running out of filament so the prototype ended up looking like a Jamaican Flag. Regards, Mo More Pics..
  7. Hi there, after composing an EUC with bluetooth contoller and 500 W motor from microworks (and some other parts), I have had the problem to integrate an additional battery in the shell: first there was just space for even one battery pack. But with just one battery it was always a little bit dangerous to go up hills: the load of the battery goes very fast down from 4 LED´s (full) to 1 or 0 LED`s (empty). When I stop for a while, the battery load came up again - to the "right" level... After some first experiments with an second battery (which even solved the Problem!) in a "back-pack-case", I build an shell extension made of steel. The original handle need to be cutted, and then there was enough space for up to two additional battery packs. The packs are connected with Y-wires for discarge; the carging wires are all connected to the charging socket. I think it is importand to load all batterys on the same charging Level, before tey are connected via Y-wires, because ohterwise they Charge / discarge each other up /down to a common Level. I am not shure, but maybe this create Problems, when the charging Level is too different in the battery´s... Whatever: I am finaly happy with the result - and like to share with you. Best regards from Germany -dettes-
  8. Hello, I am thinking of putting charger inside the shell. Is it good or bad idea? Why not?
  9. Why Choose Smonet.pdf Pls kindly check the files about five factors affecting smart balance scooter before you purchase this products. We hope that you can select a good quality since it will be safe for you.
×