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EUC

  1. How many of you enjoy trail riding instead of or in addition to street riding? Since we don't have a Video Forum I'd like to start a video thread focused on Trail Rides. If you have a YouTube video link, please reply to this topic for so we can view and talk about great experiences and some of the challenges. Let's try to keep it on topic. I would love your feedback and will most appreciate keeping this thread going with Trail riding video.
  2. This is the first time posting, but I have read the forum for years. I crashed my Sherman yesterday doing 25mph and got to ride in an ambulance to the hospital. My tire went flat after I hit some potholes and down I went! I wound up with a broken ankle and road rash(I was wearing protective gear and a helmet). My question is: How can I keep the tire from going flat? I am running the knobby tire and I use Slime. I felt the tire before I rode and thought it might be a little low. I rode 15 miles before the crash and it rode fine. Does anyone use a Tire Monitoring System?
  3. There are a ton of conversations online about the Begode Master's lackluster knobby CST-186 tires that come stock with the unit. Some reviewers call it "just okay" while others think it's pure junk. Regardless, there is a lot of interest in swapping out the CST-186 tires from the Master. Note that at the time of this writing, eWheels is still evaluating other tire options, like the Kenda K262 and street Kenda 340A. Concerns with the knobby CST-186 tire includes lack of overall control, which makes it not so great on trails. What do you think? Will you swap the CST-186 tire for a different one, or keep it stock?
  4. Hi guys as the season for riding is about to kick-off time to show your devices some love so you don't do the walk of shame anytime soon due to a puncture lol Protect yourself from flats with the most extraordinary tire sealant you can buy. Made to our extreme specification, this is the product m 5um8ade for those riders who know they're going to put it to the test, but it's also ideal for those riders who>55m)5<simply never want to deal with the headache of a flat tyre and want the best in reliability and performance. Whether you ride e-bikes, electric scooters, electric unicycles, or onewheel this product is for you. https://www.instagram.com/reel/CbX4bPejXLI/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= Look at this on eBay [https://www.ebay.co.uk/.../Armor-Dilloz.../185046256126...](https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Armor-Dilloz-Cycle-Bike-Bicycle-e-bike-MTB-Puncture-Repair-Tyre-Tire-Sealant-/185046256126?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0) Awesome product. made by members of the community for the community. Ride Safe, Stay Safe People
  5. EDIT: As promised I added two more tires to the comparison – 5. Chao Yang H-5167 and 6. CST E-Bike PRO. You can find the description, video, scores and final conclusion below. As some of you may know from my first post in Inmotion thread, I have recently bought my first wheel - Inmotion V5F+. After learning how to ride the wheel, I started using it for daily commute to work and going around the city. I am absolutely thrilled by the wheel, but after few hundred kilometers and some strange and unexpected behaviour I started to doubt the tire that came with it. Therefore I bought 3 other 14 inch tires and made this little comparison that I would like to share with all that might be interested and could find it useful: DESCRIPTION: 1. Hota Tyre Slick, soft rubber tire, with very simple and shallow tread. This was the tire that came with my wheel and quite soon after learning to ride I became suspicious that this might not be very good tire. It could be a good tire but only for asphalt without any surface imperfections. Pros: very manoeuvrable and has a really good grip on good asphalt surface. Not bumpy when jumping down from reasonable heights. Low roll resistance. Cons: it REALY (!) likes to misbehave when you have any vertical lines or deformations along your route, you are immediately “railed”. This might be because when it warms up it gets “mushy” and the slick surface probably seeps into the deformations on the road. Uncomfortable when bumping into curbs. Before I tried other tires I thought that I maybe don't know how to handle the curbs because my knees sometimes hurt after longer rides. Now I know that is not the case because I never experienced this with other tires. For some reason this tire was also unable to hold the pressure above 40psi. I would pump it to 45psi and after few kilometers it would be back to 40. I used the same inner tube on all tires I tested. 2. CST Rhino King This is new model from CST with “puncture protection” and the most expensive electric bike tire I could find on Alibaba/Aliexpress/Taobao, so I thought it might be good. It is by far the most hard / rigid tire of the whole bunch, with relatively complex and very pronounced tread. This would be a very good tire if not for one fatal flaw. Pros: Stable during straight riding, good grip both on asphalt and gravel, quite comfortable when bumping into curbs, has puncture protection. Cons: Well this tire has one fatal combination for the EUC – it is very hard and it has such a steep fall-off on the tread that it is almost unreasonably difficult to control during leaning left or right. When you ride straight with only small left or right course changes it is perfect, but when you need to make any little bit more aggressive turn or lean into one side, you really have to work to keep the wheel from falling down :-( 3. Schwalbe Big Apple So called “balloon” tire, from well known Schwalbe brand. Simple and shallow but dense tread on soft and almost slick rubber surface. This tire has different construction from the other tires, with soft, paper thin side walls from different material (think its kevlar reinforced?) and is very deformable when not inflated. Many sources say that it has to be inflated to minimum of 55psi when used on EUC or otherwise you risk damage to the side walls, so I tested it both on 45psi (like other tires) and on 55psi. This is the only tire with slightly lower width – 14x2.0 (others are 14x2.125) Pros: Best tire for bumping into curbs and amortising any kind of bumps, especially when inflated to 45psi, but even on 55psi it’s still the best in this regard. Very good grip on asphalt. Relatively good directional stability, especially considering the shallow tread and soft surface. Low rolling resistance. Cons: Bit bumpy when jumping down from curbs, not the best grip on gravel. There is also potential damage to side walls (as reported by dmethwin on Firewheel thread). I travelled 80km on this tire and even after this low mileage there was some black dusty “residue” coming off the side walls when I dismounted the tire from the wheel. Not certain how this would influence safety in the long run. 4. Chao Yang H-5146 Tire from harder rubber, but not like CST Rhino King, about half as hard. Pronounced and complex tread. Pros: Most stable tire of all tested on any surface, it just goes where you want it to go without any unexpected surprises. Inmotion V5F+ is a very agile small wheel, which sometimes represented a challenge for relatively inexperienced driver like me (total of 800km in 45 days) when faced with nasty road anomalies , but this tire gives it another dimension in stability without compromising manoeuvrability! Very good directional stability and handling of vertical anomalies on the asphalt surfaces. Good grip both on asphalt and gravel. Cons: Could be better when bumping into curbs, but this is not a real con, only wishful thinking after being spoiled by bump amortisation performance of the Schwalbe Big Apple, which is the only tire out of the tested ones that is better in this regard. This tire has quite pronounced grip and therefore two slick tires have a little bit lower rolling resistance. 5. Chao Yang H-5167 Medium soft tire with added puncture protection layer. Very complex and relatively pronounced tread. Pros: This tire forced me to rethink the score table. I expected something quite similar to Chao Yang H-5146 just with added puncture protection, and although these two tires share many good characteristics, this is in some aspects entirely different beast. In one word – SPEED – this thing rolls like crazy, I was actually convinced that my V5F+ somehow restored to the lower speed limit after the tire change because I have never before reached 25km/h speed limit and tiltback so easily. And the best thing is that it manages to maintain almost all of that wonderful control and stability that H-5146 exhibits. Great handling of anomalies on the road, good impact absorption when bumping into curbs, not bumpy while jumping… and on top all of that it has additional puncture protection layer. Cons: Slightly less (5-10%) controllable than H-5146, probably due to crazy good rolling resistance 6. CST E-Bike Pro If I am not mistaken, this is the tire that usually comes with Kingsong and Gotway wheels (although I can't say how it behaves in sizes other than 14 inch !). Medium soft rubber, pronounced tread. I just had to test at least one more CST tire to have something from another serious manufacturer as a reference to compare to the two Chao-Yang’s. This tire is made of different rubber compound, it’s not super soft but it sticks like crazy, reminds me of the winter car tires. It is also the only one of the tested tires that screeches on the glossy surfaces like marble tiles and those surfaces in shopping mall garages. Pros: Good rolling resistance, great grip on asphalt and good on gravel, fabulous handling of curbs and jumps (very close to Schwalbe Big Abble, and that is a balloon tire -could be that rubber compound?) Cons: Slightly sharper fall-off from the center of the tread to the sides – not nearly as unusable like on the CST Rhino King, but you can still feel it, especially when compared to the Chao-Yang’s. This makes it bit less controllable and sometimes “jerky”. Although it has good grip on the gravel, you have to work more due to that fall-off to keep it under control when wheel bumps around on the uneven surface. I am probably just spoiled by Chao-Yangs by now… VISUAL COMPARISON: SCORE: Tire brand / type Hota Tyre CST Rhino King Schwalbe Big Apple Chao Yang H-5146 Chao Yang H-5167 CST E-Bike Pro Size 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.00 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.125 Ride Comfort 8 8 10 10 10 10 Control 10 2 9 10 9 7 Grip Asphalt 10 8 8 10 10 10 Grip Gravel 4 8 6 8 8 8 Impact absorption 5 8 10 9 9 10 Directional stability 2 10 8 10 10 10 Temperature stability 4 10 10 10 10 10 Rolling resistance 9 8 10 8 10 9 TOTAL: 52 62 71 75 76 74 I am not expert on tires and all of the above are only my personal impressions and conclusions after using these tires on my EUC. All of the tires are tested on the same Inmotion V5F+ and with the same inner tube (Tube brand is Chao Yang). I tried each of the tires for at least 80km. CONCLUSION: Chao-Yang H-5167 is the tire that stays on my wheel. It’s simply best overall and checks practically all important “boxes”. H-5146 would be best beginners tire, it’s so controllable, relaxed and forgiving. Both CST tires have great rubber compound, but the tread has this pronounced center section and then somewhat steep fall-off, which results in less smooth experience and requires more work to control the wheel.
  6. The topic of tyre swapping and alternatives comes up more frequently these days. So I cut this from another thread. It's a tiny bit messy, but a lot of questions are answered by the data. Here's what my research has pulled up. Most of us know by now that bicycle tyres/tires are specified by the total diameter of the tyre, not the rim it fits on, as per the rest of the tyre world. So for example a 14" EUC actually has a 10" rim. However things get complicated with machines like the Gotway Nikola which is a 17" wheel, not because the rim is bigger, but because the tyre on it is actually just a fat 16" that measures 17" across. To be clear, it still fits on a standard 16" EUC rim (except maybe the rime is thicker from left to right, I don't know, Ecodrift measured the motor windings of the Nikola at 3cm, but I just measured the motor winding on my 3 year old KS14C. Guess what! 3cm. But I have it on good authority the manufacturers do not has the same motor suppliers) Right, so, here's the skinny: Most tyres have the actual rim size and width (distance between the rims across the tyre from side to side, often wider than the rim) in mm, stamped on the sidewall So: If you want a tyre for your 14" wheel look for a tyre with yy-254 where "yy" equals the width (yy details below) e.g.47-254, 57-254, 64-254, 76-254 and 254 = a 10" rim If you want a tyre for your 16" wheel look for a tyre with yy-305 e.g. 57-305, 64-305, 76-305. 305 = a 12"rim If you want a tyre for your 18" wheel look for a tyre with yy-355 e.g. 64-355, 76-355. 355 = a 14" rim If you want a tyre for your 22" wheel look for a tyre with yy-489 e.g. 64-489, 76-489. 489 = a 19.25"rim (not sure if that exists) So in theory even a 17" tyre will display 305 on the sidewall, because the size of the rim hasn't changed. "yy" chart 47mm = 1.75" 57mm = 2.125" 64mm = 2.5" (actually its 63.5mm but my 2.5" tyre says 64, so I assume they all round up) 76 or 77 = 3" For example, If you're looking for a tyre for your 16" wheel anything with a secondary sizing designation of yy-305 will fit. However too skinny or too fat could cause problems, both with your rim fitment, and possibly the area in the wheel cavity within the EUC itself. I hope this helps, and remember, my advice is worth what you paid for it, so verify my finding before plunking down your Sheckles for a shiny new tyre from across the seas. And don't forget to consider your inner tube issues.
  7. Hi everyone! I'm ordering a Sherman V2 with wider rim and will swap the tire for summer riding. I was gonna go for the Kenda K340: the Sherman street tire and stock Begode EX & EX.N tire after briefly trying @Mike Sacristan's EX.N and liking its turning behaviour. However, after chatting with Denis Hagov from EUCSALE who much prefer motorcycle tires and seeing how @iWheel of Sweden also has a large collection of them, I wonder if there would be a better option? I'm 65kg / 146 lbs and riding will be 70% street, 30% light-medium off-road. My favourite tire so far is the Chao Yang H-5167 on the 16X, 21-25 PSI depending on conditions. I don't like the CX-321 on 16X or stock CST tire on the Nikola: no appreciation for tramlining of square-ish profiles. Tires considered: Kenda K340 Pirelli Angel scooter rear Michelin City Pro Michelin Pilot Street The main questions would be: Will motorcycle tires be significantly stiffer off road, on gravel / rock / rooty terrain, lacking in suppleness of a lighter tire like the Kenda K340 and lacking grip outside of asphalt? MC tires are designed for heavier vehicles with suspension after all. What do you gain from a MC tire, what do you lose? Would the thread pattern of Kenda K340 be best of these options for mixed surface riding? What would be the right dimensions for the Sherman V2 and its 6cm wide rim. Edit: after some more research, I realise that these are considered moped tires for the K340 (source) or scooter tires for the others (source Pirelli, source Michelin) - not bicycle vs motorcycle.
  8. Knobby agressive Off road tire for Inmotion v11 have anyone tried it? You can change the v11 tire to another standard tire, the tire used now is the same that GW MSX use. Changing Kingsong s18 is another matter. Realising that Inmotion v11 is the best all round wheel for the sane segment of the EUC community, I wonder if you should just forget about the competitors and have 2 V11 wheels? One for aggressive off roading and one all purpose V11 ? Always buy more wheels. But realise: In 2 years your wheel is outdated anyways.... Maybe even Gotway will learn to maker proper suspension and a strong overall construction for the speedfreaks, Maybe even Kingsong will learn to produce soomething fully functional, but at that time Inmotion V12 will be even better? Buy NOW and you win buy later and you also win. thats a sweet deal. Suspension wheels and tanks is the future of EUC. I dont like tanks. I value functionality over speed. Some of the speedfreaks are a little dangerous I find. Still they are fun generators and lovely ppl. Going more than 34 mph is nuts. I wonder if the extremely good mudgripping on v11 could be even better and more fun generating for off roading ? Have anyone tried it? Maybe the v11 construction is even more versatile with perfect sidepads and a tire change? I LOVE MY V11.....
  9. Hi all, finally got up the nerve to replace the tire on my V8F with something trail-capable. The tire swap process was much easier than I'd expected thanks to a video by EUCO. I'm pretty confident that I could do it all again in about 15 minutes. The new tire makes the wheel handle so much better on grass, dirt, and crusher dust trails with very little performance loss on pavement. I was able to push the wheel pretty hard and was even learning to powerslide on my turns a little bit (scary)! However, I did take it onto some little side-trails that were just too gnarly and eventually I got a pinch flat causing a slow leak - it seems that roots and rocks are off the menu. Fortunately the stock tube has a removable valve core and I was able to inject some tire sealant in there; so far it's doing the job and should help to protect against further leaks for a few months. Photo Gallery TLDR: New tire turned my V8F into a trail-hungry beast, but too much gnar and you won't get too far.
  10. My pressure pump says this is 45 PSI but I kind of doubt it. This is me standing on the wheel and for the record I am 175 lb. It feels solid with my hands but when I look at it on my phone I am a bit worried.
  11. Hi Peeps. I've been riding the Gotway Tesla for nearly 5 months and decided I want to upgrade the tyre to a wider tyre. I've heard people say they upgraded to a 2.4 or 2.5 inch road tyre but never seen anybody say what tyre and provide links to where to buy it from. I would be grateful if you could provide links im based in the UK and fancy seeing what the ride difference will be on a wider tyre. Thanks alot in advance
  12. Question for those of you who will be getting the Veteran Sherman. Which tire/tyre will you be requesting with your order?
  13. I’m wondering what tires others have successfully upgraded their S18 to.
  14. This is the Michelin City Pro tire. I bought it after i ran a flat for the 2nd time, might as well try something new. Wow! what a facelift What i noticed right away was that the rubber and sidewalls where much stiffer, this makes it possible for me to ride with even lower PSI and get the same dampening, while keeping the same control as with the stock tire. So by default, i use around 30/35 psi, now i could get away with just 20 psi. 1st thought from the first few meters of rolling, "damn this is smooth" Almost no sound from the tire at all, and it felt planted solid to the ground. I also felt that the wheel rode more upright than before. Perhaps my old tire was a bit skewed, idk. I feared that it might be sharp and easily tip over because of the more aggressive curve, especially in quick turns, but that was not the case at all. It felt just as grippy as the old tire, but the dampening is better id say. Much less of the roads imperfections are noticed while riding this. Installation was not any harder than normal, same old. Its a shame that the season is over here where i live, but i will make sure to ride as soon as the temperature goes up
  15. Have anyone changed motor on Inmotion V11 ? Im forced to do it and Im not happy. In fact Im angry. My V11 sounds like shit, the bearings are producing too much friction. I took the wheel for a ride in the rain, since that day the sound is terrible. I love my V11 I use it for commuting on a daily basis, Im clumsy and not technical. I really believev Inmotion should take back bad wheels and give us new ones. This bloody project is gonna take me at least 12 hours Im told. As always Marty is very helpfull, there is a youtube video on how to do this. Also Inmotion have one and mr Wrongway have a video of how not to do it. This makes me bloody nervous and a litytle angry too. Bad bearing does that really mean I should work for inmotion for free in like 12 hours or so, or I should send my wheel back and not have a wheel for 6 weeks. Also the project is dangerous as seen here by Marty: Inmotion do the decent thing . The first batches had many errors send me a new wheel and stop this nonsense. Do the decent thing. Dont leave dangerous and difficult repairs to me .. bloody well do it yourself. PS: I dont need Negativity from simple minded keyboard warriors, I need help from clever tech people. Here wrongway demonstrates dissolved metal making a fix bloody impossible: Its not good enough - Inmotion this is bollocks.
  16. Hey guys, I'm changing the tire in my Tesla v2, and I have gotten both the side covers of, and disconnected the batteries. But I have 2 problems. First, I don't see how I can disconnect the motor wires without taking the main board out or opening the wheel more. In the animation on the ewheels youtube account they show that you can easily disconnect them. And the second and bigger problem, is that in every video I have seen, the wheel just slides out from the shell when you have unscrewed the 6 screws on each side holding the pedal hangers on to the shell. But I don't see that happening on my wheel, the axle nuts are wider than the shell it self. Is there any way to do this without opening it all the way? In every video I have seen of someone doing this on youtube you don't have to do that... Thanks for the help...
  17. So after 4k miles I finally managed to blow a little hole in my tire. This appears to maybe be something that I could patch up without taking off the wheel but I would love any suggestions. I prefer not to take this thing apart. On a side note if anyone's interested in a functional Z10 with wheel issues for a low price I would be willing to sell it as I have another wheel now. The rim is slightly dented from hitting a couple heavy bumps but the wheel is fully functional. DM me if you're interested in more details. I'm in Seattle.
  18. Hey Guys, Long story short (Does anyone know why my tires keep popping at 30psi??) I've bought 2 wheels before, I bought a inmotion v5f about 4 months ago and just recently bought an inmotion v8. My inmotion v5f tire popped after 2 weeks of having it, I knew nothing about tires so I had it at about 20 psi. (I know my bad) My inmotion v8 popped today after 2 full days of riding it at just above 30 psi. I weigh 140lbs so plus my bags I'm probs 160lbs, someone suggested 30psi would be fine. Im not riding on any off-road but I have a lot of bumpy roads around where I live. Does anyone know why my tires keep popping?
  19. Hi, I'd first like to start off saying I don't have any real experience modifying a tire and since I only have the one to mess with and there are not any other options on the market I am looking for help from those here on the forum. Timeline: I need this done asap, but can extend my duration to as far as wednesday next week. The wheel: It's a 10x2.5 Dualtron 2 EX tire. I've had tons of problems with. Today I had my 9th flat in 7 weeks. My current idea is to reinforce the tire with an anti puncture tape by Bell. I can't find any information about the product online, so I am sure it will not turn out well. The last time I performed this attempt I had a tire blowout in the middle of my commute home. The tape was loose inside the tire and caused the inner tube to build up pressure from the heat resulting in a pop. My current attempt is to place rubber cement inside the tire and then place the tape against it and hold it in place with another inner tube while it dries. I'll take the inner tube out tomorrow to inspect it's adhesive properties and if it is pretty attached I'll try it. The help I am asking for is if anyone knows a way to reinforce a tire through creative means that doesn't cause a flat through the modification. I would prefer not to damage the tire but will consider options. What types of glue would work well under the conditions of -01° to 62° C (30°F to 150° F) and speeds up to 68 kph (42 mph) This would be if the rubber cement doesn't hold out by tomorrow. What other methods can I use to enhance the tire to make it stronger? Soaking silk strips into glue then attaching them into the inside of the tire maybe? Other suggestions welcome. Lastly, What tires would work as an alternative? This solid tire did not work, it exploded after 4 days of use. I'm at the end of my rope here and would really love to sell this damn thing, but as it happens, no one as of yet wants to buy the thing, and I don't blame them. I'd imagine some of you creative people would have an idea that I could try and I am crazy enough to attempt it at this point. I appreciate any help anyone can provide. I'm open to all suggestions, even bad ones.
  20. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes. NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better) PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  21. I modded my MCM5 to ride on Chao Yang 14x2.5" wide tire. The stock MCM5 is 14x2.125" wide. I am used to wider tires (mten3, Z10, Nikola). I was not comfortable with the stock MCM5 tire. @RoCan modded his MCM5 for the 2.5" wide tire. This tire mod require cutting away a portion of the front and back shell cover along with the outer edges of the wheel well. I took @RoCan advice and made sure I cut away enough material so there is ample clearance for the wide tire. The clearance I was shooting for was 3" from edge to edge. This means the last two bottom shell screw holes were cut off. I plan to use metal or moldable plastic tabs to hold the cover bottom edges to the shell. The plan was to do rudimentary cut, install tire, and ride test. Then clean the cuts, seal any gaps, and trim out. Currently at the ride testing phase. Initial observations: The 14x2.5" tire is actually 14.5" diameter. The recommended pressure is 35-45 psi. The tire need to be inflated at or above 33 psi. Anything less and the tire rubs against the top inner wheel well. I believe under inflation causes the tire to expand diameter wise. Whereas higher psi the tire widens (flatten). I am testing it at 43psi which is on the hard side. I feel it going over 4" curve. I plan to reduce the tire pressure in 2 psi increment to find the lowest useable pressure. I took the wheel to work. The ride quality even with hard tire pressure is fantastic. The combination of wider tire and the tire itself gives the wheel very good control. The feeling of falling over on tight turns is gone. It handles like an mten3 at low speed. At higher speed (22+ mph) it gets a little squirrelly due to high tire pressure tracking road. I believe this can be resolved by dropping the pressure below 38 psi. I am glad I did this mod. It has turned my MCM5 into a mini Nikola. Chao Yang 14x2.5" tire versus stock 14x2.125" tire.
  22. I was surprised I couldn't find a dedicated thread to inner tubes so here it is! Almost all resellers I found sell inner tubes without mentioning their brand nor the angle of their valves, so unless these resellers are dedicated to EUCs, their inner tubes may not fit. Better ask them, but first we need to know what to ask! I found that the information about inner tubes is segregated in different threads, but I couldn't find any dedicated discussion regarding the different materials used in inner tubes nor information about the valve angle nor even the most recommended brands (there are inner tubes from CST, Kenda...). Hopefully someone savvy shares that information here For now here there are some pictures that show the difference between the valve angles:
  23. I've a MCM5 V1 (2.125" tire) and I'm pretty happy with it. I love this wheel. Agile, fast, funny. Now I've read that Gotway is selling this wheel with 2.5" tire. I know there's a way to change the tire but I'm not so good in this kind of stuff. Moreover, I've read that if you have a MCM5 V1 (like I do, I guess) you cannot just change the tire but it's longer work. By the way, I'm thinking about selling my wheel and buy the newest one. What you guys think? Is it a good idea? What could be advantages and disadvantages moving from 2.125 to 2.5" tire... Thanks for your help
  24. Hello there what do you think about solid tire ? For euc in particular I didn't found anyone that tried it ... I got a 14" × 2.125 tire so is small in comparison to other euc size, so maby it won't affect too much the ride and add the security that is impossible to puncture ! I don't know how would it be... Is it harder or softer than a normal tire? If anyone has some experience in this or have suggestions it's appreciated
  25. and do any of them last longer than the two years that slime says it protects for? i've had a bike mechanic say he hated working on bikes with slime.
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