Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'tire'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General Electric Unicycle Forums
    • Forum Rules (and topics relating to this forum)
    • General Discussion
    • Videos
    • Reviews
    • Which Electric Unicycle to get?
    • Learning to Ride
    • Advanced Skills and Tricks
    • Riding Safety and Protective Gear
    • Apps and App-related Gadgets
    • Mods, Repairs, & DIY
    • Tires
    • Local Group Meet Ups
    • Private Sales (secondhand)
    • Commercial Advertisements
    • Video-Making and Gear
    • Off Topic Discussion
    • Testing Only
  • Brand-Specific Forums (euc only)
    • Gotway
    • Inmotion
    • Inmotion Official Announcements and Information
    • IRON Korea and Rockwheel
    • King Song
    • King Song Official Announcements and Information
    • Ninebot
    • Veteran
  • Inactive EUC brands
    • Airwheel
    • Firewheel
    • IPS
    • Solowheel
    • Uniwheel
  • One-Wheeled Skateboards
    • One-Wheeled Skateboards
  • Two-Wheeled Self-Balancing PEVs
    • Ninebot Mini, Segway MiniPRO, Xiaomi Mini, Airwheel S8 or equivalent
    • Segway (or equivalent)
    • Hoverboard
    • Commercial Advertisements (Ninebot Mini & equivalent only)
  • Non-Self-Balancing PEVs
    • e-Scooters
    • Other Non-Self-Balancing PEVs

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


EUC

Found 45 results

  1. The topic of tyre swapping and alternatives comes up more frequently these days. So I cut this from another thread. It's a tiny bit messy, but a lot of questions are answered by the data. Here's what my research has pulled up. Most of us know by now that bicycle tyres/tires are specified by the total diameter of the tyre, not the rim it fits on, as per the rest of the tyre world. So for example a 14" EUC actually has a 10" rim. However things get complicated with machines like the Gotway Nikola which is a 17" wheel, not because the rim is bigger, but because the tyre on it is actually just a fat 16" that measures 17" across. To be clear, it still fits on a standard 16" EUC rim (except maybe the rime is thicker from left to right, I don't know, Ecodrift measured the motor windings of the Nikola at 3cm, but I just measured the motor winding on my 3 year old KS14C. Guess what! 3cm. But I have it on good authority the manufacturers do not has the same motor suppliers) Right, so, here's the skinny: Most tyres have the actual rim size and width (distance between the rims across the tyre from side to side, often wider than the rim) in mm, stamped on the sidewall So: If you want a tyre for your 14" wheel look for a tyre with yy-254 where "yy" equals the width (yy details below) e.g.47-254, 57-254, 64-254, 76-254 and 254 = a 10" rim If you want a tyre for your 16" wheel look for a tyre with yy-305 e.g. 57-305, 64-305, 76-305. 305 = a 12"rim If you want a tyre for your 18" wheel look for a tyre with yy-355 e.g. 64-355, 76-355. 355 = a 14" rim If you want a tyre for your 22" wheel look for a tyre with yy-489 e.g. 64-489, 76-489. 489 = a 19.25"rim (not sure if that exists) So in theory even a 17" tyre will display 305 on the sidewall, because the size of the rim hasn't changed. "yy" chart 47mm = 1.75" 57mm = 2.125" 64mm = 2.5" (actually its 63.5mm but my 2.5" tyre says 64, so I assume they all round up) 76 or 77 = 3" For example, If you're looking for a tyre for your 16" wheel anything with a secondary sizing designation of yy-305 will fit. However too skinny or too fat could cause problems, both with your rim fitment, and possibly the area in the wheel cavity within the EUC itself. I hope this helps, and remember, my advice is worth what you paid for it, so verify my finding before plunking down your Sheckles for a shiny new tyre from across the seas. And don't forget to consider your inner tube issues.
  2. Hey Guys, Long story short (Does anyone know why my tires keep popping at 30psi??) I've bought 2 wheels before, I bought a inmotion v5f about 4 months ago and just recently bought an inmotion v8. My inmotion v5f tire popped after 2 weeks of having it, I knew nothing about tires so I had it at about 20 psi. (I know my bad) My inmotion v8 popped today after 2 full days of riding it at just above 30 psi. I weigh 140lbs so plus my bags I'm probs 160lbs, someone suggested 30psi would be fine. Im not riding on any off-road but I have a lot of bumpy roads around where I live. Does anyone know why my tires keep popping?
  3. How many of you enjoy trail riding instead of or in addition to street riding? Since we don't have a Video Forum I'd like to start a video thread focused on Trail Rides. If you have a YouTube video link, please reply to this topic for so we can view and talk about great experiences and some of the challenges. Let's try to keep it on topic. I would love your feedback and will most appreciate keeping this thread going with Trail riding video.
  4. Question for those of you who will be getting the Veteran Sherman. Which tire/tyre will you be requesting with your order?
  5. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes. NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better) PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  6. I modded my MCM5 to ride on Chao Yang 14x2.5" wide tire. The stock MCM5 is 14x2.125" wide. I am used to wider tires (mten3, Z10, Nikola). I was not comfortable with the stock MCM5 tire. @RoCan modded his MCM5 for the 2.5" wide tire. This tire mod require cutting away a portion of the front and back shell cover along with the outer edges of the wheel well. I took @RoCan advice and made sure I cut away enough material so there is ample clearance for the wide tire. The clearance I was shooting for was 3" from edge to edge. This means the last two bottom shell screw holes were cut off. I plan to use metal or moldable plastic tabs to hold the cover bottom edges to the shell. The plan was to do rudimentary cut, install tire, and ride test. Then clean the cuts, seal any gaps, and trim out. Currently at the ride testing phase. Initial observations: The 14x2.5" tire is actually 14.5" diameter. The recommended pressure is 35-45 psi. The tire need to be inflated at or above 33 psi. Anything less and the tire rubs against the top inner wheel well. I believe under inflation causes the tire to expand diameter wise. Whereas higher psi the tire widens (flatten). I am testing it at 43psi which is on the hard side. I feel it going over 4" curve. I plan to reduce the tire pressure in 2 psi increment to find the lowest useable pressure. I took the wheel to work. The ride quality even with hard tire pressure is fantastic. The combination of wider tire and the tire itself gives the wheel very good control. The feeling of falling over on tight turns is gone. It handles like an mten3 at low speed. At higher speed (22+ mph) it gets a little squirrelly due to high tire pressure tracking road. I believe this can be resolved by dropping the pressure below 38 psi. I am glad I did this mod. It has turned my MCM5 into a mini Nikola. Chao Yang 14x2.5" tire versus stock 14x2.125" tire.
  7. I was surprised I couldn't find a dedicated thread to inner tubes so here it is! Almost all resellers I found sell inner tubes without mentioning their brand nor the angle of their valves, so unless these resellers are dedicated to EUCs, their inner tubes may not fit. Better ask them, but first we need to know what to ask! I found that the information about inner tubes is segregated in different threads, but I couldn't find any dedicated discussion regarding the different materials used in inner tubes nor information about the valve angle nor even the most recommended brands (there are inner tubes from CST, Kenda...). Hopefully someone savvy shares that information here For now here there are some pictures that show the difference between the valve angles:
  8. I've a MCM5 V1 (2.125" tire) and I'm pretty happy with it. I love this wheel. Agile, fast, funny. Now I've read that Gotway is selling this wheel with 2.5" tire. I know there's a way to change the tire but I'm not so good in this kind of stuff. Moreover, I've read that if you have a MCM5 V1 (like I do, I guess) you cannot just change the tire but it's longer work. By the way, I'm thinking about selling my wheel and buy the newest one. What you guys think? Is it a good idea? What could be advantages and disadvantages moving from 2.125 to 2.5" tire... Thanks for your help
  9. EDIT: As promised I added two more tires to the comparison – 5. Chao Yang H-5167 and 6. CST E-Bike PRO. You can find the description, video, scores and final conclusion below. As some of you may know from my first post in Inmotion thread, I have recently bought my first wheel - Inmotion V5F+. After learning how to ride the wheel, I started using it for daily commute to work and going around the city. I am absolutely thrilled by the wheel, but after few hundred kilometers and some strange and unexpected behaviour I started to doubt the tire that came with it. Therefore I bought 3 other 14 inch tires and made this little comparison that I would like to share with all that might be interested and could find it useful: DESCRIPTION: 1. Hota Tyre Slick, soft rubber tire, with very simple and shallow tread. This was the tire that came with my wheel and quite soon after learning to ride I became suspicious that this might not be very good tire. It could be a good tire but only for asphalt without any surface imperfections. Pros: very manoeuvrable and has a really good grip on good asphalt surface. Not bumpy when jumping down from reasonable heights. Low roll resistance. Cons: it REALY (!) likes to misbehave when you have any vertical lines or deformations along your route, you are immediately “railed”. This might be because when it warms up it gets “mushy” and the slick surface probably seeps into the deformations on the road. Uncomfortable when bumping into curbs. Before I tried other tires I thought that I maybe don't know how to handle the curbs because my knees sometimes hurt after longer rides. Now I know that is not the case because I never experienced this with other tires. For some reason this tire was also unable to hold the pressure above 40psi. I would pump it to 45psi and after few kilometers it would be back to 40. I used the same inner tube on all tires I tested. 2. CST Rhino King This is new model from CST with “puncture protection” and the most expensive electric bike tire I could find on Alibaba/Aliexpress/Taobao, so I thought it might be good. It is by far the most hard / rigid tire of the whole bunch, with relatively complex and very pronounced tread. This would be a very good tire if not for one fatal flaw. Pros: Stable during straight riding, good grip both on asphalt and gravel, quite comfortable when bumping into curbs, has puncture protection. Cons: Well this tire has one fatal combination for the EUC – it is very hard and it has such a steep fall-off on the tread that it is almost unreasonably difficult to control during leaning left or right. When you ride straight with only small left or right course changes it is perfect, but when you need to make any little bit more aggressive turn or lean into one side, you really have to work to keep the wheel from falling down :-( 3. Schwalbe Big Apple So called “balloon” tire, from well known Schwalbe brand. Simple and shallow but dense tread on soft and almost slick rubber surface. This tire has different construction from the other tires, with soft, paper thin side walls from different material (think its kevlar reinforced?) and is very deformable when not inflated. Many sources say that it has to be inflated to minimum of 55psi when used on EUC or otherwise you risk damage to the side walls, so I tested it both on 45psi (like other tires) and on 55psi. This is the only tire with slightly lower width – 14x2.0 (others are 14x2.125) Pros: Best tire for bumping into curbs and amortising any kind of bumps, especially when inflated to 45psi, but even on 55psi it’s still the best in this regard. Very good grip on asphalt. Relatively good directional stability, especially considering the shallow tread and soft surface. Low rolling resistance. Cons: Bit bumpy when jumping down from curbs, not the best grip on gravel. There is also potential damage to side walls (as reported by dmethwin on Firewheel thread). I travelled 80km on this tire and even after this low mileage there was some black dusty “residue” coming off the side walls when I dismounted the tire from the wheel. Not certain how this would influence safety in the long run. 4. Chao Yang H-5146 Tire from harder rubber, but not like CST Rhino King, about half as hard. Pronounced and complex tread. Pros: Most stable tire of all tested on any surface, it just goes where you want it to go without any unexpected surprises. Inmotion V5F+ is a very agile small wheel, which sometimes represented a challenge for relatively inexperienced driver like me (total of 800km in 45 days) when faced with nasty road anomalies , but this tire gives it another dimension in stability without compromising manoeuvrability! Very good directional stability and handling of vertical anomalies on the asphalt surfaces. Good grip both on asphalt and gravel. Cons: Could be better when bumping into curbs, but this is not a real con, only wishful thinking after being spoiled by bump amortisation performance of the Schwalbe Big Apple, which is the only tire out of the tested ones that is better in this regard. This tire has quite pronounced grip and therefore two slick tires have a little bit lower rolling resistance. 5. Chao Yang H-5167 Medium soft tire with added puncture protection layer. Very complex and relatively pronounced tread. Pros: This tire forced me to rethink the score table. I expected something quite similar to Chao Yang H-5146 just with added puncture protection, and although these two tires share many good characteristics, this is in some aspects entirely different beast. In one word – SPEED – this thing rolls like crazy, I was actually convinced that my V5F+ somehow restored to the lower speed limit after the tire change because I have never before reached 25km/h speed limit and tiltback so easily. And the best thing is that it manages to maintain almost all of that wonderful control and stability that H-5146 exhibits. Great handling of anomalies on the road, good impact absorption when bumping into curbs, not bumpy while jumping… and on top all of that it has additional puncture protection layer. Cons: Slightly less (5-10%) controllable than H-5146, probably due to crazy good rolling resistance 6. CST E-Bike Pro If I am not mistaken, this is the tire that usually comes with Kingsong and Gotway wheels (although I can't say how it behaves in sizes other than 14 inch !). Medium soft rubber, pronounced tread. I just had to test at least one more CST tire to have something from another serious manufacturer as a reference to compare to the two Chao-Yang’s. This tire is made of different rubber compound, it’s not super soft but it sticks like crazy, reminds me of the winter car tires. It is also the only one of the tested tires that screeches on the glossy surfaces like marble tiles and those surfaces in shopping mall garages. Pros: Good rolling resistance, great grip on asphalt and good on gravel, fabulous handling of curbs and jumps (very close to Schwalbe Big Abble, and that is a balloon tire -could be that rubber compound?) Cons: Slightly sharper fall-off from the center of the tread to the sides – not nearly as unusable like on the CST Rhino King, but you can still feel it, especially when compared to the Chao-Yang’s. This makes it bit less controllable and sometimes “jerky”. Although it has good grip on the gravel, you have to work more due to that fall-off to keep it under control when wheel bumps around on the uneven surface. I am probably just spoiled by Chao-Yangs by now… VISUAL COMPARISON: SCORE: Tire brand / type Hota Tyre CST Rhino King Schwalbe Big Apple Chao Yang H-5146 Chao Yang H-5167 CST E-Bike Pro Size 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.00 14x2.125 14x2.125 14x2.125 Ride Comfort 8 8 10 10 10 10 Control 10 2 9 10 9 7 Grip Asphalt 10 8 8 10 10 10 Grip Gravel 4 8 6 8 8 8 Impact absorption 5 8 10 9 9 10 Directional stability 2 10 8 10 10 10 Temperature stability 4 10 10 10 10 10 Rolling resistance 9 8 10 8 10 9 TOTAL: 52 62 71 75 76 74 I am not expert on tires and all of the above are only my personal impressions and conclusions after using these tires on my EUC. All of the tires are tested on the same Inmotion V5F+ and with the same inner tube (Tube brand is Chao Yang). I tried each of the tires for at least 80km. CONCLUSION: Chao-Yang H-5167 is the tire that stays on my wheel. It’s simply best overall and checks practically all important “boxes”. H-5146 would be best beginners tire, it’s so controllable, relaxed and forgiving. Both CST tires have great rubber compound, but the tread has this pronounced center section and then somewhat steep fall-off, which results in less smooth experience and requires more work to control the wheel.
  10. Hello there what do you think about solid tire ? For euc in particular I didn't found anyone that tried it ... I got a 14" × 2.125 tire so is small in comparison to other euc size, so maby it won't affect too much the ride and add the security that is impossible to puncture ! I don't know how would it be... Is it harder or softer than a normal tire? If anyone has some experience in this or have suggestions it's appreciated
  11. and do any of them last longer than the two years that slime says it protects for? i've had a bike mechanic say he hated working on bikes with slime.
  12. I was looking for an option for driving in the winter. Winter in Drammen, Norway is very varying. From rainy day with 5°C to -15°C snow. Some days a very icy. I have been looking for studded tires. But to no avail. The closest thing I found was studs that could be screwed into the tyre. But that needed at least 6,2 mm rubber thickness. The tires I found was between 5,5-6 mm. I didn't want to chance it. One bump and the stud would puncture the tyre/tube. In the end I ended of with the following solution. I screwed in 196 screws through the tyre from the inside out. Then I added two layers of tube that i glued to the inside of the tyre. To protect the inner tube from puncture and wear and tear. I have now ridden my Kingsong KS18L for about two weeks in total. It has worked great. The only time I struggle is when it has snowed a lot, and people has walked in the snow. Before the road has been cleared. Else it has been worked great. I have some suggestions for making it better. It would be nice to get a thin, strong mesh to clue on the inside of the tyre over the screw heads. Any suggestions on where I could get this?
  13. So, I felt like the stock MSX tire is fine for the street, but pretty weak on any kind of trail. I wanted to try out a dual sport tire which could work on the trails and the road. I decided to try out the Shinko 244. There are other options out there that people have tried, but I really liked the look of this one. The problem is that tire lists the width at 2.75". Then the specs show that it is at 2.95" which is only about 1/8" wider than the stock tire. So, I thought, it should be fine. However, inflated the tire really measures about 3.25". Ouch, so what to do? I had to use a belt sander and sand that thing down on the sides to make it fit. I also had to take the entire wheel apart in order to sand the housing and give it a little more clearance. So, for the rated difficulty of installing this tire, I'm not sure I can recommend it. But I LOVE how it works when finally installed. Virgin tire - road only at this point. Time to get dirty... Morning ride after San Diego rain. It can get a little muddy out here on these hills. But the views are great. As you can see, I definitely need a mud flap now because the nice upgraded one from eWheels won't fit on this tire at all. Loose soil, sand, bark, gravel, straight up mud are no match for this thing. Stable and solid like it's glued to the road from what I've tried so far. I'll let you know how it's working once I've put a few more miles on it.
  14. Better price and cheapest than Aliexpress offers with Free shipping Mini PLUS 70/804-6.5 tire pri USA US$20.59 AUSTRALIA AU$29.98 Europe 18,42€
  15. Hi everyone, I just got my first euc, a ninebot one e+. The tire came with a low pressure so I tried to inflate it following the comment on this forum. The problem is I can't get any pressure reading while I am still able to inflate the tire. I first try to connect the valve with the brass adapter to a schwin bike pump and connecting everything didn't even move the needle on the gauge. I change my pump to a bell bike pump and got the same result, finally I got another flexible extension instead of the oem brass extension and again same results. In all 3 cases the tire got inflated, I just can't get the actual pressure measurement. I am just wondering if anyone encountered this type of issue before and if they were able to overcome it. Thank you very much in advance. Simon
  16. Hey all, nabbed a Z10 back in October and have been happily shortcutting urban transportation since. I recently checked the app and realized I've put 1000 miles on the wheel! I thought I'd ask if there is anything I should think about tuning up or checking out after this much mileage. The wheel is working great, and I'd love to make sure it stays that way. Any tips or advice?
  17. Hello guys, hope youre having awesome days with your wheels!❤️ I recieved my new lovely 18XL last week and I completely forgot to check the tire pressure...(ridden around 60km so far and I love it!) My BW is 80Kg, I am 180cm... How many PSI / BAR should I use? Thank you very much guys, have a great day!
  18. (16/03/2019 updates in progress) Hello After more than a year working on my blog about the Mini, I decided a few days ago to monetize my blog, it reached more than 11,400 visitors from 115 countries. By joining affiliate programs with resellers, I choose spare parts and accessories for the Mini. I try to pay attention to quality even if it is difficult. I would touch a small percentage of a sale made, which will perhaps allow me to improve my blog, will see, I start with these programs. https://mini-j.jimdo.com/shop-guide/ It is therefore in total transparency that I announce the creation of a new site attached to my blog, called "Mini-J-S-G" (for the entire title: mini-j shopping guide) (cancelling) jojo33
  19. Hi there! 35 psi still feels soft for my weight. I wonder if it is safe to put bit more air into Z10? Did anyone tried pressure over 35psi?
  20. I'd like to know how many other 16" EUC riders here have experience with the Maxxix Hookworm 16" street tire. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Hookworm-BMX-Tire-16X1-95/dp/B00188A1LG After recently switching over I can safely say that this will be my tire of choice for my KS16S. I thought the wheel was nimble before but this has brought it to a whole new level. It allows me to make sharp turns and carve like I never thought possible. One downside is that it can make the wheel a bit more prone to wobbles but no big deal. Couldn't recommend higher for all experienced riders of 16" wheels
  21. Hi, I'd first like to start off saying I don't have any real experience modifying a tire and since I only have the one to mess with and there are not any other options on the market I am looking for help from those here on the forum. Timeline: I need this done asap, but can extend my duration to as far as wednesday next week. The wheel: It's a 10x2.5 Dualtron 2 EX tire. I've had tons of problems with. Today I had my 9th flat in 7 weeks. My current idea is to reinforce the tire with an anti puncture tape by Bell. I can't find any information about the product online, so I am sure it will not turn out well. The last time I performed this attempt I had a tire blowout in the middle of my commute home. The tape was loose inside the tire and caused the inner tube to build up pressure from the heat resulting in a pop. My current attempt is to place rubber cement inside the tire and then place the tape against it and hold it in place with another inner tube while it dries. I'll take the inner tube out tomorrow to inspect it's adhesive properties and if it is pretty attached I'll try it. The help I am asking for is if anyone knows a way to reinforce a tire through creative means that doesn't cause a flat through the modification. I would prefer not to damage the tire but will consider options. What types of glue would work well under the conditions of -01° to 62° C (30°F to 150° F) and speeds up to 68 kph (42 mph) This would be if the rubber cement doesn't hold out by tomorrow. What other methods can I use to enhance the tire to make it stronger? Soaking silk strips into glue then attaching them into the inside of the tire maybe? Other suggestions welcome. Lastly, What tires would work as an alternative? This solid tire did not work, it exploded after 4 days of use. I'm at the end of my rope here and would really love to sell this damn thing, but as it happens, no one as of yet wants to buy the thing, and I don't blame them. I'd imagine some of you creative people would have an idea that I could try and I am crazy enough to attempt it at this point. I appreciate any help anyone can provide. I'm open to all suggestions, even bad ones.
  22. How many people here I've actually worn tires bald on an euc? I'm just curious but guessing not many. On my ks16s I wore it bald enough to get a flat tonight. Luckily I have a replacement tire ready to go and my new tube should arrive tomorrow. Do to my riding style, I see many, many tire changes are in my future.
  23. Hello everyone. After doing a little more than 2500 km with my S2, it's time for me to change my tire. My tire became flat on the middle who totally changed the behavour of the wheel. I'm wondering if anyone put offroad tire like this one on his S2 or another type of uniwheel who was designed with road tire and changed for offroad and could give me a feedback. On a topic, i've readed someone saying it totally changed the behavour but in a terrible way ?. Anyone could confirm that ? And by the way if anyone know how to remove anti puncture bomb projection ? I have all over my rim ?. I didn't saw any solution except abrasive stuff like sandpaper Thanks :D
  24. Hi there, does anyone know on what’s the name of the tool that we use to access the tire on the KS 16s, I see that the valve is crooked or bent inward there...
×
×
  • Create New...