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EUC

Found 8 results

  1. Moderator notice: Splitting the conversation from the KS S18 thread: I am surprised that we haven't gone tubeless yet (except for Z10) ... surely that should have become the norm before suspension became a thing? So many advantages to tubeless...
  2. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes, do not drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better. Remove batteries (and covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  3. Yesterday I planned on goin on Nice long ride on the monster but right before I left I noticed the tire was flat, (thank god I have two other msupers) so I searched for the culprit but found nothing in the tire, so I decide to pump it up and i noticed that air was coming from the valve area, got some slime in there but it was still leaking, anyone experience this before? If you did how did you fix it?
  4. Sorry if this is answered elsewhere. I went to Walmart to buy that green slime but found 2 variants for tire and tube. Both looked same. Do inmotion V5F+ has tube at all? I can't scratch my head anymore!
  5. Please, where can I buy an inner-tube replacement for my MTen3? Thanks
  6. After 4,000 miles it was time to replace the 16 x 1.95 tire and inner tube on my Ninebot One E+ Taking off the LED ring and plastic rings was easy with deliberate unlatching of several interlock tabs. The pedal bolt set screw came out with an hex tool and the bolt tapped out with a hammer and screw driver. The battery wiring harness, charging wire coupler and LED power connectors separated without a problem. The blue plastic tire tools are essential in getting the tire off and back on. After removing the inner tube, the opposite side of the tire was removed with the blue tire tools. Putting the new tire onto the rim took some patience for the last few inches of tire to hook onto the hub. When adding air to the new tire and inner tube the position of the 'bent stem' should favor optimal external access by the Ninebot extender by positioning it before inflating the tire. Reassembly went well except for one machine screw hole position (1 of 4) which had cracked with use. The screw was omitted from the final plastic component assembly because I dropped and lost one.? When tightening the dozen or so other attaching bolts the best results were obtained by loosely screwing all bolts into each acceptor hole and then tightening each bolt in sequence. It's worth noting that the loss of one screw was actually a result of a complex magnetic interaction. There is a magnet which is removed from the plastic housing. It keeps the pedals up when the pedal Bolt allows free pedal hinge motion. I had attached the four screws magnetically to it to avoid losses. While moving the container (picture1) with the magnet and fasteners, the small hex key which was also in the container became forcefully attracted to the magnet. A scattering occurred in the container and when I looked again for the four 'magnetically bound screws' only three could be found. Searching the floor, etc. with a flashlight found no trace of the lost fourth screw of a set which holds a minor plastic assembly which supports the the LEDs in some way. The fourth screw is hardly missed functionally. After removing some of the extra old foam padding the tire and tube replacement was done. I took the tire replacement as an opportunity to replace the male part of the 4 pin Lemo connector which is part of the recharger unit. The soldering task was a tight job but easier than replacing the whole Lemo connector (+ wire and ground wire using only 2 of 4 Lemo connector pins) on both the Ninebot and the charger unit. My original Lemo connector from the charger had some loose wires held in proper position with plastic zip ties and I wanted it to be replaced with a new Lemo 4 pin plug ordered from China, as described by someone on this forum. The new tire rides great but feels very different than the flattened tread of the old tire.
  7. How important is the bent valve stem on my EUC inner tube? I recently bought a KS14C and tore the inner tube on my initial test ride. The valve stem became entangled in the shell (no doubt, due to improper inflation). Finding 14 inch inner tubes is difficult enough, but angled valve stem adapters are even rarer. Hopefully, this is not a common occurrence as repair/replacement is complicated (and expensive).
  8. I just had to fix a flat tire on my 14-inch unicycle for the second time, so I took some pics during the process. I also installed a mud flap to reduce the amount of crap that gets thrown into the battery and control board. Here's the album: http://imgur.com/a/rEv6a
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