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EUC

Found 11 results

  1. The topic of tyre swapping and alternatives comes up more frequently these days. So I cut this from another thread. It's a tiny bit messy, but a lot of questions are answered by the data. Here's what my research has pulled up. Most of us know by now that bicycle tyres/tires are specified by the total diameter of the tyre, not the rim it fits on, as per the rest of the tyre world. So for example a 14" EUC actually has a 10" rim. However things get complicated with machines like the Gotway Nikola which is a 17" wheel, not because the rim is bigger, but because the tyre on it is actually just a fat 16" that measures 17" across. To be clear, it still fits on a standard 16" EUC rim (except maybe the rime is thicker from left to right, I don't know, Ecodrift measured the motor windings of the Nikola at 3cm, but I just measured the motor winding on my 3 year old KS14C. Guess what! 3cm. But I have it on good authority the manufacturers do not has the same motor suppliers) Right, so, here's the skinny: Most tyres have the actual rim size and width (distance between the rims across the tyre from side to side, often wider than the rim) in mm, stamped on the sidewall So: If you want a tyre for your 14" wheel look for a tyre with yy-254 where "yy" equals the width (yy details below) e.g.47-254, 57-254, 64-254, 76-254 and 254 = a 10" rim If you want a tyre for your 16" wheel look for a tyre with yy-305 e.g. 57-305, 64-305, 76-305. 305 = a 12"rim If you want a tyre for your 18" wheel look for a tyre with yy-355 e.g. 64-355, 76-355. 355 = a 14" rim If you want a tyre for your 22" wheel look for a tyre with yy-489 e.g. 64-489, 76-489. 489 = a 19.25"rim (not sure if that exists) So in theory even a 17" tyre will display 305 on the sidewall, because the size of the rim hasn't changed. "yy" chart 47mm = 1.75" 57mm = 2.125" 64mm = 2.5" (actually its 63.5mm but my 2.5" tyre says 64, so I assume they all round up) 76 or 77 = 3" For example, If you're looking for a tyre for your 16" wheel anything with a secondary sizing designation of yy-305 will fit. However too skinny or too fat could cause problems, both with your rim fitment, and possibly the area in the wheel cavity within the EUC itself. I hope this helps, and remember, my advice is worth what you paid for it, so verify my finding before plunking down your Sheckles for a shiny new tyre from across the seas. And don't forget to consider your inner tube issues.
  2. After doing it a few times, i found a way to split it open and remove tyre and tube in about 20minutes. Here goes. NOTE! DO NOT Drop screws down in battery compartment in step 1. 1. Snap of outer skirt, start at the top with the overlying part. Remove batteries (first covers, 2 screws beneath top foam and 2 beneath plastic piece at pedal height...2 snaps and a center pin to remove plastic piece) on both sides. Mark up corresponding battery and BMS CONNECTORS (i use a permanent marker with 1,2,3 aso dots on connecting cables/connectors but it rubs of easy so tape is better) PRESS POWER BUTTON (a few times) WHEN BATTERIES ARE DISCONNECTED TO DISCHARGE CAPACITORS. WHEEL WILL BEEP. WHEN IT DOESN'T BEEP, YOU ARE FINE. NO RESIDUAL VOLTAGE. 2. Remove pedal on non motor cable side (keep other one on for stability) 3. Loosen 3-4 screws for trolley handle on one side and remove all screws holding the alu extender on same side. Remove alu from handle by opening up and move away from pin. Then remove the alu extender Push the" half handle" back down in shell to stay out of the way NOTE!!! If its the first time you split the shell, remove the adhesive tape located right under the control board ( i guess it's there to prevent water from spraying on control board as shell is not very water proof) 4. Remove the screw that was covered by the trolley extender + same screw one opposite side. Screws from here on are LONGER, KEEP THEM SEPARATE (easier to assemble without thinking) 5. Remove four screws on motor cable side holding shell together 6. Remove NON motor cable side screws holding shell to pedal-holders. (crappy construction with fastening so close to each other, look for cracks and drill end of crack with 1-1.5mm drill bit to prevent further cracks. Fill drill hole with i.e. silicone). If wanted make bigger washers or at least replace the super thin non stainless ones with proper washers and screws with hex head) 7. NOW Remove 4 screws holding shell together on other side. 8. Carefully splt shell (lift straight up as control board partially slide into this half) part on non motor cable side and DISCONNECT the connector for that sides LED strip BEFORE removing cover 9. Ready to change tyre or tube 10. I find it easier to use one tyre lever to make first lift and lock it under pedal hanger making sure not to pinch tube when inserting lever (tubes are hard as f... To find and delivery from China 3-4Weeks so go slow) Then using hand to push down tyre to center of rim on opposite side or all around (where rim is deepest), using 2nd lever to bend up enough tyre to be able to lift the rest of by hand....or use another lever to pry tyre off. 3 levers = friend helps, but 2 levers worked for me all times. Then remove tube and the rest is a breeze (other side of tyre bead comes off easy) Change tube tyre or whatever and assemble in reverse order :-) I USE silicone to seal the shell halves back together to make sure water cant reach control board. It requires some slow bending when prying shell halves apart at next disassembly, but to me its worth the 1-2 minutes of slow prying (listening to the silicone crack open) to feel safe(r) in case of water splashes. If you want tape instead (or as well) remove control board after seatimg the two halves together and fixing them with screws. I also added some electric tape on edges of control board to prevent rattle as its quite loosely fitted. Don't forget to loctite screws at pedal hangers and screws holding pedal pins hopefully it helps, most YT videos remove entire shell and control board and DISCONNECT motor cables, totally unnecessary. Waste of time, where you can be riding
  3. I was surprised I couldn't find a dedicated thread to inner tubes so here it is! Almost all resellers I found sell inner tubes without mentioning their brand nor the angle of their valves, so unless these resellers are dedicated to EUCs, their inner tubes may not fit. Better ask them, but first we need to know what to ask! I found that the information about inner tubes is segregated in different threads, but I couldn't find any dedicated discussion regarding the different materials used in inner tubes nor information about the valve angle nor even the most recommended brands (there are inner tubes from CST, Kenda...). Hopefully someone savvy shares that information here For now here there are some pictures that show the difference between the valve angles:
  4. - The Tesla looks pretty BORING with its snazzy fake carbon fibre and black trim. - The buzzzer also can not be heard properly at speed and for sure not by people in front when used as a horn - The fastening of the plastic chassis that hold the 1000Wh battery pack and main board, wasnt fastened in a qualitative way. Very eager to crack around those tiny screws and washers. Basically, we need to remould this "China build" into something that holds up, can be heard and looks nice(ish) 3 fairly simple things Paint that shit uuuup 1a Remove trim (clicks off) 1b Repaint the trim - sand down (180-240 grit as last step) - clean very carefully (i used soap and water, dry, then alcohol) make sure all dust is gone and that especially big marks are clean all the way into the bottom - base coat/primer for plastic (2 layers or until even coat). You can see a few marks shining through...bad cleaning or too little coat. Sand area around the mark lightly keeping the coat but smoothing the edges, clean and coat again. - (Optional, fill big pits scrapes with some kind of filler like plastic padding, sand and base coat..im lazy and i know i will scrape it again ) - paint (3 layers flouroscent green + 2 layers chrome for me) -varnish (2-3 layers), only left one varnished with one layer on the green below Tried to colour manage photo how it looks IRL but Acid green flourescent is really hard...but about like this 2 move the beeper 2a Split the wheel (dont miss the tape under the circuit board holding the shell together at the end). Disconnect batteries & press power button to empty the capacitors. They hold A LOT of charge A LONG time. 2b Screw of beeper and remove the plastic cork-screw wrap from its cables CAREFULLY. The other tiny cables are the HALL sensor cables and they are solid core so very easy to break (idiots choice of cables in an EUC). I took the chance to cable manage those while in the progress as mine were bent in a curl up fashion. Straightened them (very carefully making sure i did NOT bend them more than ONE time as several bends will break them) and electric taped them to the power cables a few centimeters and then refitted cork screw wrapping partially over motor and sensor cables and then toward the card of course only the sensor cables. Like this. I also sealed the holes from the beeper...they are on both sides of chassis as the chassis part is the same mould. 2c move the beeper "inside" the shell, the best flat spot i found was right next to the circuit board, it should still be fairly protected here as its next to the circuit board that I hope is protected Also managed all the cables here together to a package, supported by the main harness to the front panel. 2d I used double sided sticky tape to fasten it, didn't want to drill any holes. Time will tell if that was a stupid choice (if it will come loose and dangle around inside the shell) DONE, now start putting wheel back togehter but first Fasten the shell better with new washers But first some maintenance, check around the holes for hair line cracks. If found, drill a tiny hole (1mm is plenty) RIGHT in the end of the crack (to prevent it from continuing) and fill the hole with your filler of choice (to prevent water from entering through the hole). As per below one of the cracks cant be drilled obviously as it sllready end in holes but the left one can. 3a. Create your 6 washers. They should be 52*11mm (not more than 12 as then the wont fit) , thickness as per choice, I went for 4mm aluminium Hole CC is 34mm and diameter 5.5mm Look at those paper thin (non stainless) original washers....laughable. 3b Choose a new screw, of course longer due to the beefier "mega washer". I prefer allen hex a lot more than star as I can tighten them easier (and more if wanted) 3c Add a flat washer (or serrated if you dont use thread lock, i prefer flat + blue loctite thread lock) on top of your mega washer and fasten it up Additional maintenance while at it, add some reinforcement to the battery compartment. For example sandwhich a piece of plastic with loctite glue against this fragile plastic wall taking the hit from the batteries att every bump. Also change the adhesive tape for the batteries to something really sticky (but of course not to the point you can't remove them) to prevent them from moving too much. Below i removed all the adhesive tape to see the hidden damage. My friend had this too so I guess all ridden Teslas do and MSX es DONE :-) Now i just need to finish my paint job and put it all together. Will also add washers to increase angle of pedals. Will post an image when all is done. All done...here it is... playground seemed fitting...toys for big boys :-) Flourescent under UV (lit with a 3led UV light used to harden the glue for phone glass protection..with some light from the back) But the main advantage is how it rides, its a completely new wheel to ride feeling wise. It's still very nimble, but i guess the increased pedal angle makes it less nervous too as you dont PUSH DOWN like before (maybe a bit extreme but i need the clearance in both sharp turns where i constantly scrape the ledals and in the woods to avoid stones and whatnot). Also means i have to raise my kuji pads (one is with velcro allready, the other one is getting velcro too now, so covenient to adapt for different choe sole thicknesses) The Kenda tyre pumped A LOT harder (4+ BAR) than the old CHIENG shin (msxed out at 3.1Bar) did not make it nervous or bumpy... Right now turns are smoother than ever. Maybe because the tyre is once again round in profile as opposed to allmost square on my worn SS 🤪 Yep, it was time to change...4000km it lasted...not bad when loaded with 95Kg rider +20kg wheel & equipment :-)
  5. First time user here, just purchased Ninebot One S2, after having miniPro for a couple of months I decided to try something more challenging, and kids took over miniPro anyway. Now while doing some exercises I noticed very low tyre pressure. But I'm unable to reach tyre valve to top it up to 40-45PSI as recommend. The valve is not in parallel with a tyre (like on some youtube videos) and it makes it absolutely impossible to connect the extender. You can see it on the photo attached. Lack of Segway support is really frustrating, for the price we pay, there should be at least a phone number to call, or a chat or something, submitting the form not helping, no response at all. And I'm surprised there is very little info online about Ninebot S1/S2, is it not widely used?
  6. I'd like to know how many other 16" EUC riders here have experience with the Maxxix Hookworm 16" street tire. https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Hookworm-BMX-Tire-16X1-95/dp/B00188A1LG After recently switching over I can safely say that this will be my tire of choice for my KS16S. I thought the wheel was nimble before but this has brought it to a whole new level. It allows me to make sharp turns and carve like I never thought possible. One downside is that it can make the wheel a bit more prone to wobbles but no big deal. Couldn't recommend higher for all experienced riders of 16" wheels
  7. I am using Slime in all my wheels and had recently my first two punctures after almost 8000km. The good news: I could recognise a tiny leak by fluid leaking from the valve stem before I even noticed a loss of air pressure. Slime also helps a lot to find the location where the tube is leaking, as the leak spits out the fluid. The bad news: even a comparatively small puncture wasn't fully sealed. Repair becomes slightly more difficult, as, I believe, vulcanisation only works on a Slime-free tyre and the leak doesn't quite stop to spit out Slime. Overall a tyre sealant is a safety improvement, so I will keep using it. I just wonder whether there are better products out there than Slime.
  8. Curious to see the favorite tire size preference for the favorite 16" EUC category....
  9. Hi all ! I have been riding almost 500km on my Ninebot E+ and I wonder how often the tyre should be replaced. After 1000km ? 2000km ? How can I see if the tyre is worn out ? Kind regards
  10. Found this one , looks good Captain gripmaster
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