mrelwood Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 (edited) 6 hours ago, Chriull said: Otherwise if the lower voltage comes from bad/deteriorated cells such calibration is just hiding the symptom until the battery becomes dangerous ;( That’s what I’ve been afraid with these remote calibrations. I don’t know if Inmotion can see some data that can help them determine if the issue really is just a bad calibration or indeed badly balanced cells. Or even a faulty pack altogether. Edited August 31, 2023 by mrelwood 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 Is it possible that they can see more than we can? Or are they working blindly and potentially covering up a bad cell group? Maybe they're looking at range logs. Ok you've got decent range so lets assume your packs are good. Hmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 22 minutes ago, alcatraz said: Is it possible that they can see more than we can? Or are they working blindly and potentially covering up a bad cell group? Maybe they're looking at range logs. Ok you've got decent range so lets assume your packs are good. Hmm.... They are absolutely seeing much more data than we are. But since we don’t know what exactly do they see and what they are basing their calibration decisions on, and they are doing calibrations in cases that to us may seem like a battery issue, doubt arises… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 On 8/31/2023 at 10:02 AM, Chriull said: That's great if the batteries/cells are in good condition and the lower voltage is caused by not calibrated measurement circuits - which should happen as final step during assembly in the factory... Otherwise if the lower voltage comes from bad/deteriorated cells such calibration is just hiding the symptom until the battery becomes dangerous ;( Yes, I agree. But in my case, the difference is not too big. So I don't worry. If I had a maximum charge of 81v and below, then I would think about it more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted September 2, 2023 Share Posted September 2, 2023 Sounds like their "remote calibration" just means hiding the problem I didn't know that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 13 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Sounds like their "remote calibration" just means hiding the problem I didn't know that. I don't think it's just hiding the problem (In most cases). There were people they were unable to perform this calibration. And there were people after calibration the battery began to hold a charge longer than before. Therefore, it seems to me that in most cases people do not have any problems with the battery and we are talking about incorrect readings from the board. But sometimes it really can be a battery issue (at very low rates with full charge, I would say 81V and lower). 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 2 hours ago, FiZ_ said: I don't think it's just hiding the problem (In most cases). You’re probably right. I had an overvoltage issue with my V11 at first in 2020, which they fixed with the calibration. I later measured the pack voltages, and they were spot on with my $150 multimeter. I know, not the best source for comparison, but at least it shouldn’t be 2V off like it was at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 Well, if you say that, I guess it's good. Sounded a bit sketchy at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 On 9/3/2023 at 5:14 AM, mrelwood said: You’re probably right. The only thing I want to test is ride the wheel until it lifts the pedals when the battery is low. This will give me confidence that the indicators of battery are equal to reality and safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 14 hours ago, FiZ_ said: The only thing I want to test is ride the wheel until it lifts the pedals when the battery is low. This will give me confidence that the indicators of battery are equal to reality and safe. I wouldn’t want to disrupt your confidence, but the tilt-back is generated based on the same voltage sensor that just got calibrated. There’s no low voltage protection on EUC BMSs since about 2016, because it caused too many crashes. It would make sense for the BMS to report it’s state to the mainboard better, but as it stands the communication line is very rudimentary. What I’d be worried about is the cell calibration. I’d check the charge current around the time when the charger turns green. If the current keeps going down slowly, you’re good. If the current drops steeply and the charging stops the second the charger turns green, you have a cell balance problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 (edited) 10 hours ago, mrelwood said: I’d check the charge current around the time when the charger turns green. If the current keeps going down slowly, you’re good. If the current drops steeply and the charging stops the second the charger turns green, you have a cell balance problem. When the light turns green - I had something around 83V, after next 2 hours it increased to a maximum of 83.3V (with a current of 0.03-0.06A). And at 83.3V I did calibration to 84V. On the second wheel I had the same, but max voltage 82.5. Edited September 5, 2023 by FiZ_ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 3 hours ago, FiZ_ said: When the light turns green - I had something around 83V, after next 2 hours it increased to a maximum of 83.3V (with a current of 0.03-0.06A). And at 83.3V I did calibration to 84V. On the second wheel I had the same, but max voltage 82.5. For the limited amount of information known to us, it does seem that the battery might indeed be healthy, and that it was only missing the correct calibration. Surprising that the calibration was off that bad though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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