mrelwood Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 (edited) 6 hours ago, Chriull said: Otherwise if the lower voltage comes from bad/deteriorated cells such calibration is just hiding the symptom until the battery becomes dangerous ;( That’s what I’ve been afraid with these remote calibrations. I don’t know if Inmotion can see some data that can help them determine if the issue really is just a bad calibration or indeed badly balanced cells. Or even a faulty pack altogether. Edited August 31, 2023 by mrelwood 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 Is it possible that they can see more than we can? Or are they working blindly and potentially covering up a bad cell group? Maybe they're looking at range logs. Ok you've got decent range so lets assume your packs are good. Hmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 22 minutes ago, alcatraz said: Is it possible that they can see more than we can? Or are they working blindly and potentially covering up a bad cell group? Maybe they're looking at range logs. Ok you've got decent range so lets assume your packs are good. Hmm.... They are absolutely seeing much more data than we are. But since we don’t know what exactly do they see and what they are basing their calibration decisions on, and they are doing calibrations in cases that to us may seem like a battery issue, doubt arises… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 1, 2023 Share Posted September 1, 2023 On 8/31/2023 at 10:02 AM, Chriull said: That's great if the batteries/cells are in good condition and the lower voltage is caused by not calibrated measurement circuits - which should happen as final step during assembly in the factory... Otherwise if the lower voltage comes from bad/deteriorated cells such calibration is just hiding the symptom until the battery becomes dangerous ;( Yes, I agree. But in my case, the difference is not too big. So I don't worry. If I had a maximum charge of 81v and below, then I would think about it more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted September 2, 2023 Share Posted September 2, 2023 Sounds like their "remote calibration" just means hiding the problem I didn't know that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 13 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Sounds like their "remote calibration" just means hiding the problem I didn't know that. I don't think it's just hiding the problem (In most cases). There were people they were unable to perform this calibration. And there were people after calibration the battery began to hold a charge longer than before. Therefore, it seems to me that in most cases people do not have any problems with the battery and we are talking about incorrect readings from the board. But sometimes it really can be a battery issue (at very low rates with full charge, I would say 81V and lower). 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 2 hours ago, FiZ_ said: I don't think it's just hiding the problem (In most cases). You’re probably right. I had an overvoltage issue with my V11 at first in 2020, which they fixed with the calibration. I later measured the pack voltages, and they were spot on with my $150 multimeter. I know, not the best source for comparison, but at least it shouldn’t be 2V off like it was at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted September 3, 2023 Share Posted September 3, 2023 Well, if you say that, I guess it's good. Sounded a bit sketchy at first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 4, 2023 Share Posted September 4, 2023 On 9/3/2023 at 5:14 AM, mrelwood said: You’re probably right. The only thing I want to test is ride the wheel until it lifts the pedals when the battery is low. This will give me confidence that the indicators of battery are equal to reality and safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 14 hours ago, FiZ_ said: The only thing I want to test is ride the wheel until it lifts the pedals when the battery is low. This will give me confidence that the indicators of battery are equal to reality and safe. I wouldn’t want to disrupt your confidence, but the tilt-back is generated based on the same voltage sensor that just got calibrated. There’s no low voltage protection on EUC BMSs since about 2016, because it caused too many crashes. It would make sense for the BMS to report it’s state to the mainboard better, but as it stands the communication line is very rudimentary. What I’d be worried about is the cell calibration. I’d check the charge current around the time when the charger turns green. If the current keeps going down slowly, you’re good. If the current drops steeply and the charging stops the second the charger turns green, you have a cell balance problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiZ_ Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 (edited) 10 hours ago, mrelwood said: I’d check the charge current around the time when the charger turns green. If the current keeps going down slowly, you’re good. If the current drops steeply and the charging stops the second the charger turns green, you have a cell balance problem. When the light turns green - I had something around 83V, after next 2 hours it increased to a maximum of 83.3V (with a current of 0.03-0.06A). And at 83.3V I did calibration to 84V. On the second wheel I had the same, but max voltage 82.5. Edited September 5, 2023 by FiZ_ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrelwood Posted September 5, 2023 Share Posted September 5, 2023 3 hours ago, FiZ_ said: When the light turns green - I had something around 83V, after next 2 hours it increased to a maximum of 83.3V (with a current of 0.03-0.06A). And at 83.3V I did calibration to 84V. On the second wheel I had the same, but max voltage 82.5. For the limited amount of information known to us, it does seem that the battery might indeed be healthy, and that it was only missing the correct calibration. Surprising that the calibration was off that bad though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedofsoul2 Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 I can't believe I'm posting this in 2024 (was user speedofsoul earlier in this thread) but 2 years later my V8S battery pack finally got unbalanced enough that the wheel wouldn't turn on. I have bought a new battery pack and the same exact issue happened that my wheel stops charging at 92%(81 volts). I am now confident that this calibration thing is important and not just a fake fix. I think if you don't calibrate the wheel it can lead to the battery being too unbalanced in the long term (in my case it took 2 years for the pack to get unbalanced to the point of not turning on). I hope if inmotion can calibrate my pack that this new battery will last more than 2 years). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomallo Posted August 16 Share Posted August 16 I don't understand how Inmotion can remotely "calibrate" the battery on wheels that don't even have balancing circuitry. The only thing I can think of is that they artificially change the voltage readings (like when the euc reports 81V from one of the packs and the other charges to full 84V, they add 3V to the 81V readout, even though the battery is still really at 81V?). This would theoretically make the cells able to be discharged below the factory intended threshold of like 3.1 volts or something, which is better than overcharging the cells, but still seems sketchy... This results in a lower amount of power being available at all times than expected, so after this "calibration," the tiltback and warnings should take this loss of potential headroom into account, but I have my doubts if they would be willing to do that. Does anybody know what the remote calibration exactly does? Perhaps it was already discussed and I just haven't been able to find it, then I apologize. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedofsoul2 Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 On 8/16/2024 at 5:59 PM, Tomallo said: I don't understand how Inmotion can remotely "calibrate" the battery on wheels that don't even have balancing circuitry. The only thing I can think of is that they artificially change the voltage readings (like when the euc reports 81V from one of the packs and the other charges to full 84V, they add 3V to the 81V readout, even though the battery is still really at 81V?). This would theoretically make the cells able to be discharged below the factory intended threshold of like 3.1 volts or something, which is better than overcharging the cells, but still seems sketchy... This results in a lower amount of power being available at all times than expected, so after this "calibration," the tiltback and warnings should take this loss of potential headroom into account, but I have my doubts if they would be willing to do that. Does anybody know what the remote calibration exactly does? Perhaps it was already discussed and I just haven't been able to find it, then I apologize. You're right, no one in this thread has yet posted exactly what their calibration does - so maybe I'm being too hopeful still. Man, I just want my wheel to last more than 1000km without dying... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M640x Posted September 12 Share Posted September 12 On 11/21/2018 at 7:46 AM, Lunar said: Hey guys, just got my inmotion V10 and the battery won't charge past 91%. The device will never informs me that the charge is complete like it's suppose to. I'm in the period (new wheel) where I'm suppose to drain it (not all the way to 0, but low) then bring it back up to a higher percentage. The first time this happened, I didn't think I left it on enough. The second time, I left it on for hours and it just wouldn't rise past 91%. I reached out to inmotion, but I was wondering if anyone else ran into this issue, and if there was a fix. Thank you! I had two V10f wheels and both of them had that problem. I had to buy a fast charger from ewheels to solve it. Evidently the factory charger didn't have enuf "arse" to charge the wheel to 100%. Fast charger solved the problem with the first charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedofsoul2 Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 On 9/12/2024 at 4:26 PM, M640x said: I had two V10f wheels and both of them had that problem. I had to buy a fast charger from ewheels to solve it. Evidently the factory charger didn't have enuf "arse" to charge the wheel to 100%. Fast charger solved the problem with the first charge. Which charger did you get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frolic0415 Posted September 18 Share Posted September 18 On 8/17/2024 at 7:59 AM, Tomallo said: I don't understand how Inmotion can remotely "calibrate" the battery on wheels that don't even have balancing circuitry. The only thing I can think of is that they artificially change the voltage readings (like when the euc reports 81V from one of the packs and the other charges to full 84V, they add 3V to the 81V readout, even though the battery is still really at 81V?). This would theoretically make the cells able to be discharged below the factory intended threshold of like 3.1 volts or something, which is better than overcharging the cells, but still seems sketchy... This results in a lower amount of power being available at all times than expected, so after this "calibration," the tiltback and warnings should take this loss of potential headroom into account, but I have my doubts if they would be willing to do that. Does anybody know what the remote calibration exactly does? Perhaps it was already discussed and I just haven't been able to find it, then I apologize. That's what I've always assumed too, they just adjust the numbers and not the actual voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 19 Share Posted September 19 Has anybody needed a second "calibration" after another few months/years? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frolic0415 Posted September 19 Share Posted September 19 19 minutes ago, alcatraz said: Has anybody needed a second "calibration" after another few months/years? Yup, I needed two calibrations on my V12 but the second time was because it was unused for 6 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alcatraz Posted September 19 Share Posted September 19 2 hours ago, Frolic0415 said: Yup, I needed two calibrations on my V12 but the second time was because it was unused for 6 months. Interesting. As the packs age I wonder if there'll be a need for more calibrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.