Elder Meat Posted October 29, 2018 Share Posted October 29, 2018 Ditto that issue regarding tire pressure. I have a V10F and it loses maybe 10psi in one week. Once it gets to 25psi it seems to stabilize, but that's way too low. I slimed it so where ever the leak is happening isn't where the slime can reach. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted October 29, 2018 Share Posted October 29, 2018 May be a faulty valve stem, slime naturally wouldn't get there. You could pump it up and feel with a wet finger if any air is released at the valve stem (not sure if one would feel that, but one can try). The dumb thing about this, tube change = one has to disassemble the entire wheel. There needs to be a better solution for this in the long term. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tothjm Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 so im at a place now with my riding i can go in a line sometimes turn and go all the way back.. but damn i am shakey and using my legs to turn the wehel back and forth in a fairly uncontrolled manor i think im on the right track? but i also feel like my legs and CORE def need to be stronger for this. does this sound right for this stage it has been about a week now of practice and when i see pro riders they seem very stable and not even hugging the bike with legs... i feel bad that i think im hugging it with my legs to balance vs actually just balancing ( its more 50 50 ) but i def need more work. trying to be sure i stand up staright to find that center of gravity as i fear im bending forward without realizing hopefully im on the right track to figuring this out ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 You don't need muscles for EUC riding. You just feel yours if you're tense Normal for learning. Sounds to me you should concentrate on keeping balance by rotating the hip instead of using the legs. Like mentioned here: Otherwise, if you're having fun and getting better, everything's great Don't overthink, just go. Maybe do a little 1 mile tour to challenge yourself. Whatever feels right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadRunner Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Yeah, just like @meepmeepmayer said, dont think to much, just go and if it takes a bit longer never mind. Iam 7 weeks on the wheel now and in the beginning i wanted all to be perfect. When my foot was just 1cm off i was unstable now its just coming more natural. There comes a time when you make progress every day, just practice every day and relax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tothjm Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 thanks guys i will try to keep that all in mind! i laughed out loud when i read the part about the foot... when i start now, if my food isnt right around the same place ( i like mine little bit back for now so stopping is easier ) then the muscles feel weird and tense so i have to get that right... but ya i will do what feels right for now until my body just learns. i feel like i prob need a bit more core strength though! wasnt sure what you meant by move hips instead of my legs but i will check out that vid to see if the mention it, have watched several by now. def still improving each day but my legs are killing me after each go, so im def steering with my legs right now and balancing the wheel against my legs to keep from falling vs unknown alternative at this moment can anyone shed light on that what unknown alternative is at this point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 Like mentioned in the video, a good, relaxed foot position is a neutral one. One that makes the wheel neither go forwards nor backwards when only one foot is on the pedal. Do that by stepping on with your other foot to the side of the wheel, not behind or in front. Other than that, enjoy and have fun It will come naturally. A lot of people report a "click" moment where they "got it". Often that seems to be the hip thing where they stop flailing around their arms and stop using foot pressure only. You can stand on a piece of paper on a slippery ground (tiles, concrete, ...) and try to rotate it left-right on the spot by turning your upper body against your lower body forcefully while keeping your soles parallel. Basically using your soles only to rotate the paper. Same idea on a EUC, you rotate it using your soles on the pedals for the fine balance, no other contact necessary. I hope that explains the idea a little better. But again, some day you'll naturally do that anyways. With the V8, it is hard to do that because it's so thin, so side contact isn't bad or anything, it will happen. Just try to not have constant contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tothjm Posted November 2, 2018 Author Share Posted November 2, 2018 can you explain more about the hip thing and how it relates to foot pressure... are you more saying the leaning forward or back vs putting deliberate pressure on toes or heels to move? feeling frustrated a bit for the moment on this. I am doing better each day but for last 3 times now i still keep using my legs against the wheel to balance it so i think im doing it wrong even though it kind of works, just scared im learning to use the wrong parts of my body and some very obvious action item is still missing can anyone try to speak more about this hips idea? i can turn mostly ok by turning hips but just balancing seems to be more about my legs and then i get shaky and end up steering right and left very quickly ( while moving with decent speed ) just to stay upright which again i think is wrong... i guess ill focus today on just trying to be in a neutral upright position to balance to see if that helps? shoulders above hips Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 There is NOTHING wrong with pushing your legs against the wheel to balance What works, works. The hip thing has nothing to do with leaning forwards or backwards to speed up or slow down. It has nothing to do with foot pressure against the pedals or the wheel's side. It has nothing to do with riding curves. It's about quick, slight balance movements you make to keep yourself upright at slow speeds in each moment. By rotating the wheel around its vertical axis with your feet mostly just via contact with the pedals (and that feet movement comes from the quick hip rotations). If you don't do that, the wheel may tilt so much that you have to push your leg against it to counter. Basically it's about riding very small left-right sine-like snake lines instead of big ones that come from reacting to a tilt too slowly. Sorry it's hard to explain, also I'm not sure how it works on the V8/Glide 3. When I tried the V8, I also did big snake lines until I realized I was steering way too hard (using different up-down foot pressure between each leg) until I relaxed and did only very slight pressure movements. It's a very sensitive wheel, and very different to my wide ACM (only got real experience with that) so sorry if I'm confusing or wrong. You can try it like this. Stand on the wheel and hold on with one arm to a pole or corner (not just a wall, something you can grab). Stand relaxed and straight. Now try using your hips to rotate the wheel on the spot around its central vertical axis (the small patch where the tire touches the ground is the lower end), while keeping the upper body pointed in the same direction. You'll likely use some arm pressure against whatever your're holding. That same movement when riding slowly will stabilize you, but you only move the lower part of your body and maybe the arms for momentum (or you upper body's momentum for smaller corrections). From that position holding the pole you can start riding and try keeping the hip movements to balance instead of tilting the wheel or pushing against its sides. If that doesn't make sense, I'm saying it wrong. Forget about it and just ride. Don't get frustrated, have fun! If you get annoyed, take a break. Don't overthink. What works, works. It takes time. Just ride. Rules of learning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadRunner Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 The only thing you can do is to eat those miles. Just ride as much as you can. Thats what i did, i had the same problems just a few weeks ago where i thougt i will never be able to do this. And just today i heard „please decelerate“ for the first time. So my advice is go out and practice practice practice, and everything will come day by day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadRunner Posted November 2, 2018 Share Posted November 2, 2018 And if you like to watch some videos go on this channel, great guy, watched all of his videos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biped Phil Posted November 3, 2018 Share Posted November 3, 2018 On 10/29/2018 at 9:50 AM, Jesse T said: ...how to get an air nossle on this thing without taking a screwdriver and proping up the air nose ( not a lot as i know that can cause tearing ). is there a tool to get at this thing easier? i tried to buy a 90 degree valve attachment but man does it suck, air just leaks out if you touch it the wrong way. It is so cloise to the wheel body nothing i have will attach to it and for 900 bucks they should really send you some kind of attachment. i may just be retarded here but anyone have some tips for getting at this thing or am i just going about it the wrong way ? Despite lack of maneuvering room, you pull the snout away from the rim with your fingers and jam the pump onto it. If your fingers are not on board with that plan, then you can try lassoing it using a twist-tie. No stem extender required. You do not need to pull the snout away from the rim very far, just about 0.11811 inches. The innertube withstands it. Maybe it seems hard to do partly because the geometry puts you at a low-leverage disadvantage. Also, unless you have 3 hands it also helps to tie back the snap-out case-flap with a pair of socks while you attend to the inflation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travsformation Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 On 10/26/2018 at 1:56 PM, Mono said: The wheel shutting off is not going to happen, because the kill switch is inactive above around 2-3km/h. I've been racking my brain all afternoon trying to figure out how to attach the strap to my V8 so it wouldn't hit the handle anti-spin button after an incident I had a couple of days ago... I was going down a hill, raised the arm I had the leash on for balance, and since the leash was so loosely attached to the wheel, it had moved and was right under the kill switch, so I assumed that what happened was that the leash tugged on the button and, well, you can imagine the rest...the wheel slid straight out from under me and since I was leaning back, straight on my ass (is the opposite of a face-plant an ass-plant?). Just a bruise and some discomfort sitting down, but it could have resulted in a serious coccyx injury. I had NO IDEA the kill switch became inactive above a certain speed. There's no mention of it in the V8 user manual, all it says is: Quote The anti-spinning function is opened by default when V8 leaves the factory. You need to shut down this function on the mobile APP if installing the learning rope for operation on the handle. Users need to know the above functions and agree to accept the relevant legal liability statements when using this function. @Mono Can you absolutely confirm that it actually deactivates above 2-3 km/h? Doing so will spare me a foreseeable (and stupid) attempt to intentionally tug on the kill switch with the strap at 10-15km/h to find out for myself (in which case I envision a face-plant in the near future) If you're right about the kill switch, my assumption about the cause of the fall was completely wrong. The only other thing I can think of is a cutout due to going down a steep hill on a full battery. In which case....crap! I live at the top of a long hill ! On 10/26/2018 at 1:56 PM, Mono said: As a compromise, the kill switch can be deactivated in the app if so desired. I hadn't though of that. [Sigh...] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travsformation Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 On 10/25/2018 at 9:39 PM, existensil said: Since it has a button under the handle to turn the wheel off when lifting, I think a strap is very dangerous unless you can find somewhere else to attach it. @existensil Just yesterday I discovered another strap-related risk I hadn't foreseen (and wouldn't have in a million years). I had just slowed down (jogging speed?) and was making a 90º turn into an empty parking lot when I lost my balance (day 4 on my first EUC). I hopped off the wheel as I do in those cases, but unexpectedly, my strap got caught on my knee-pad, in the gap between the protection plate and the padding: Right at that moment I was pulling my arm upward to catch the wheel, so the strap jerked my knee inward and caused my leg to land at an awkward angle. I didn't end up on the ground, but the unnatural position of my knee when I landed turned what otherwise would have been an uneventful "hop-off-the-wheel and hop right back on" into a tendon injury that will apparently be keeping me off my brand new wheel for several days (Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarggggghhhh !!!!!!!!! ) Unfortunately, I don't think I can do without a strap where I live, since it's a seriously hilly area and any fall would send my wheel tumbling down a hill and potentially hurting someone (as well as the wheel), so for now, this is the best I've come up with: At least until I can afford something else (SixSixOne or Gform ProX) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 I was always against straps because they endanger the rider, turning harmless things into possible catastrophes because you can trip over them, and they do nothing much else (except maybe the hill safety thing). But that's a discussion for another thread (and has already been had)... @travsformationHoping your injury won't last long. I would strongly prefer knee pads with hard plastic shells to anything else (like thin gform layers). Your pads look perfect, the only possible upgrade would be "better" ones of the same type (for skateboarding/longboarding I think). No need to replace yours. I believe they are by far the safest simply because they offer the best impact cushioning due to their thickness, and will slide well along the ground (hard plastic slides on pavement) instead of rubbing through or (worse) getting pulled off when sliding and exposing your knee to abrasion. To prevent injuries in a fall, abrasion resistance is the most important for a knee pad (I speak from experience). Impact resistance comes second (because your hands hit first and get most of the impact). I don't believe the "slime that gets hard" protectors are as effective as good hard plastic with a lot of cushioning on the inside. Applies to any protective gear. There's a reason there are no gform helmets. Helmets are hard plastic on the outside and some kind of compressing foam on the inside. But I guess as a compromise between bulky protectors and nothing, gform and related stuff has its value. Never "tested" any gform stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travsformation Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 10 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: @travsformationHoping your injury won't last long. Thanks @meepmeepmayer. Today is day 3 since the injury, I hardly notice it any more unless I walk up/down stairs, but it would probably be unwise to get back on the V8: my girlfriend is a physical therapist and explained that the specific tendon that I sprained (femoral biceps) is under a lot of stress when riding an EUC, so even though I CAN'T WAIT to jump back on my V8 (this is SO addictive!) , it's probably better not to force it quite yet. On that subject, she also recommended warming up before riding and stretching afterwards. Is there a thread on that or has it already been discussed? If not, I'd be happy to open one and share her recommendations 10 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: I was always against straps because they endanger the rider, turning harmless things into possible catastrophes because you can trip over them, and they do nothing much else (except maybe the hill safety thing). Although I understand the risks, hill safety is definitely a decisive factor for me... 10 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: But that's a discussion for another thread (and has already been had)... Now that I've looked around, I can see that hehe. I currently have about 9 tabs open with comments on the subject of leashes. I'll go through them all in due time, but it would be very useful, especially for newbies like me, for there to be one, unified LEASH/STRAP THREAD. I'd be happy to start it...then again, do I risk reawakening old feuds? What do you think? 10 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: I would strongly prefer knee pads with hard plastic shells to anything else (like thin gform layers). Your pads look perfect, the only possible upgrade would be "better" ones of the same type (for skateboarding/longboarding I think). No need to replace yours. I believe they are by far the safest simply because they offer the best impact cushioning due to their thickness, and will slide well along the ground (hard plastic slides on pavement) instead of rubbing through or (worse) getting pulled off when sliding and exposing your knee to abrasion. To prevent injuries in a fall, abrasion resistance is the most important for a knee pad (I speak from experience). Impact resistance comes second (because your hands hit first and get most of the impact). I don't believe the "slime that gets hard" protectors are as effective as good hard plastic with a lot of cushioning on the inside. Applies to any protective gear. Yeah, you make very good points (great explanation too! Thanks for taking the time!). I hadn't thought of the fact that hard-shell pads don't only protect from abrasion, but also allow you to slide, which reduces the impact by dissipating some of the energy. I was (impulsively) considering the G-Forms as an option to prevent problems with the leash, but after your explanation, and doing some research on that type of pad, I think I'm definitely better off with the ones I have (They're ProTec skateboard pads: hard, thick plastic shell and lots of cushioning underneath). Now it's just a matter of figuring out how to best tie and position the leash so it doesn't cause me any further trouble. Looks like I'm going to have A LOT of reading material for this evening... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mono Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 11 minutes ago, travsformation said: I'll go through them all in due time, but it would be very useful, especially for newbies like me, for there to be one, unified LEASH/STRAP THREAD. I'd be happy to start it...then again, do I risk reawakening old feuds? What do you think? Collecting the links in a new topic/post may already be added value to the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 53 minutes ago, travsformation said: On that subject, she also recommended warming up before riding and stretching afterwards. Is there a thread on that or has it already been discussed? If not, I'd be happy to open one and share her recommendations Do it. Would be great if you add that completely new aspect to EUC riding discussion. Never seen anything like this discussed here! (You got the ideal girlfriend for EUC life lol) 57 minutes ago, travsformation said: Now that I've looked around, I can see that hehe. I currently have about 9 tabs open with comments on the subject of leashes. I'll go through them all in due time, but it would be very useful, especially for newbies like me, for there to be one, unified LEASH/STRAP THREAD. I'd be happy to start it...then again, do I risk reawakening old feuds? What do you think? This is a EUC forum, not the international journal of serious seriousness. If you feel you want to say something, just do it. Some things just repeat regularly with new riders coming in, I think that's normal and they can't be expected to read x years worth of threads here anyways, so it will surface information new to some, which is good. If you add links to some other threads as per @Mono's idea, that would also have some value in its own. Also don't overthink (overread)...9 tabs -- About the gform, I just wanted to dispell the notion that they are automatically an upgrade (just because they cost more?). I believe your existing ones are better. Maybe I'm completely wrong, but I don't think so Nothing against gform per se, and again I really don't know anything about how good that stuff is (maybe it's really good?) and what its use cases are. I've recently written my opinion (because lacking crash testing, it's just that) on what's important in wrist guards, it goes in the same direction. I've you don't have enough to read already, it starts here (second post below that): Side note: gform stuff also seems to be built when people want protectors under their clothes (for looks) or when bulky protectors get in the way of the activity or mobility of the wearer (kind of like it happened for you). Also consider the cost of torn clothes if your protection is under your clothes instead of over it. I've had one crash (no knee pads) and it cost me a jeans, a jacket, and the two layers underneath the jacket (it was cold). That adds up quickly. -- What was this thread about again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travsformation Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 10 hours ago, Mono said: Collecting the links in a new topic/post may already be added value to the forum. Well, I'm benefiting a lot from the forum, so I'd love to give back. It's a mighty task but give me some time and (maybe) I'll manage! 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Do it. Would be great if you add that completely new aspect to EUC riding discussion. Never seen anything like this discussed here! Cool. Knowing that it's never been discussed, it's definitely going on my to-do list, especially since it could considerably help to reduce certain (non-impact) injuries 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: You got the ideal girlfriend for EUC life lol Hahaha definitely! Especially considering that I've had minor shin, coccyx and knee tendon injuries all during the first week! On the other hand, she's already told me that if I want her to walk me through the biodynamics of unicycling and give me EUC-specific warming up and stretching exercises, I'm going to be cooking dinner and doing the dishes a lot for a few weeks! (P.S. This better be worth it!) 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: This is a EUC forum, not the international journal of serious seriousness. If you feel you want to say something, just do it. Some things just repeat regularly with new riders coming in, I think that's normal and they can't be expected to read x years worth of threads here anyways, so it will surface information new to some, which is good. Thanks. That's actually a hell of a relief: I use a lot of language and tech forums for work and seriousness is pretty much the norm. Newcomers have to walk on eggshells because if you bring up a bring up a subject that's already been discussed (or go off topic ) they'll crucify you if you're not careful. I guess I was stuck in the "don't annoy the veteran members" mode hehe. Glad this forum's not like that, thanks for the thumbs up! 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Also don't overthink (overread)...9 tabs Yeah...I tend to do that a lot... 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: About the gform, I just wanted to dispell the notion that they are automatically an upgrade (just because they cost more?). I believe your existing ones are better. Maybe I'm completely wrong, but I don't think so Nothing against gform per se, and again I really don't know anything about how good that stuff is (maybe it's really good?) and what its use cases are. Side note: gform stuff also seems to be built when people want protectors under their clothes (for looks) or when bulky protectors get in the way of the activity or mobility of the wearer (kind of like it happened for you). I totally agree about the G-forms (although I haven't tried them either). But since my last post I've read quite a few Amazon reviews and it seems they're mostly used for cross-country and mountain biking (flexible, can be worn under your clothes), but there are a lot of comments saying they're not apt for serious downhill biking or things like skateboarding, etc. A lot of comments too about them breaking after a couple of falls, and about issues with the seams coming undone. Out of curiosity, I checked how much the "full kit" would cost (knees, elbows, shins, ankles, pants, shirt, gloves) and at least here in Europe, it's more than 400€. Which is a lot of money when you consider they're more indicated for dirt trails than for concrete (video test here if you're interested). The only item I think might be an interesting buy are the pants, since they protect the coccyx in case of an ass-fall and the ilium for lateral falls on one's pelvis. 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: Also consider the cost of torn clothes if your protection is under your clothes instead of over it. I've had one crash (no knee pads) and it cost me a jeans, a jacket, and the two layers underneath the jacket (it was cold). That adds up quickly. I hadn't thought of that...I guess I'll be wearing my skate pads on top of my Armani rather than buying G-forms to wear under it But seriously, after the cost of the V8, helmet, knee & elbow pads, wrist guards and shin guards (I didn't originally have them but learned why I should on the 3rd day), I'd better not ruin my clothes because I don't have any money left to buy new ones! 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: I've recently written my opinion (because lacking crash testing, it's just that) on what's important in wrist guards, it goes in the same direction. I've you don't have enough to read already, it starts here (second post below that): OK, now I have 10 (EUC-forum) tabs open (plus email, Facebook, Netflix and a few other random pages) 9 hours ago, meepmeepmayer said: What was this thread about again? Hahaha good point. Mmmm.....posture? (Posture when using a leash; posture with skate knee-pads; posture with G-form; posture with Flexmeter alternatives; posture going down hills; posture while discussing new threads; posture while reading too many threads at once; posture while going waaaaay off topic...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dingfelder Posted November 4, 2018 Share Posted November 4, 2018 13 minutes ago, travsformation said: I totally agree. Since my last post I've read quite a few Amazon reviews and it seems they're mostly used for cross-country and mountain biking (flexible, can be worn under your clothes), but there are a lot of comments saying they're not apt for serious downhill biking or things like skateboarding, etc. A lot of comments too about them breaking after a couple of falls, and about issues with the seams coming undone. Out of curiosity, I checked how much the "full kit" would cost (knees, elbows, shins, ankles, pants, shirt, gloves) and at least here in Europe, it's more than 400€. Which is a lot of money when you consider they're more indicated for dirt trails than for concrete (video test here if you're interested). The only item I think might be an interesting buy are the pants, since they protect the coccyx in case of an ass-fall and the i If you are talking about stuff like the D30 flexmeter foam protectors, I've seen a number of reviews in different places saying they have saved people from motorcycle injuries, and that they were worth the money even if the material got torn up and was essentially one-use. If you intend on crashing a lot, it might be a different story. But some people have the outlook going in, or establish it later, that they are disposable even though expensive, cost not being that much of a factor when it comes to preventing serious injury. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travsformation Posted November 5, 2018 Share Posted November 5, 2018 1 hour ago, Dingfelder said: If you are talking about stuff like the D30 flexmeter foam protectors, I've seen a number of reviews in different places saying they have saved people from motorcycle injuries, and that they were worth the money even if the material got torn up and was essentially one-use. No, I was referring to the G-form Pro-X [I've modified the post to clarify]. I doubt anyone uses those for motorcycling...(then again, I might be wrong and they're great for that, who knows...) 1 hour ago, Dingfelder said: If you intend on crashing a lot, it might be a different story. I don't intend to, but probably will anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travsformation Posted November 7, 2018 Share Posted November 7, 2018 Hey guys, I actually have a question that's not off-topic for a change, and related to posture! Yesterday was day 5 of riding. I started off practicing turns (wider and narrower) in the only flat area in the neighbourhood (a basketball court) for about 15'. (Sidenote: I imagine it happens to everyone that it's easier to turn one way than the other). I'm getting much more confident at turning. Things seam to go the smoothest when I relax and just go with it without thinking. I can pull off fairly tight, low-speed turns now too (most of the time) with a mixture of feet + hip to turn the vertical axis in addition to leaning (it was one of those things that just clicked all of a sudden). Practiced a little emergency braking too. Then went on a 12 km ride around my ridiculously hilly neighbourhood. I do ok with turns on flat and uphill stretches--I even find uphill hairpins pretty manageable--, it's the downhill turns I struggle with, particularly when on steep downhills (30º+). I find it hard to keep in full control of the wheel while leaning back so much, and start to get a lot of wobbling unless I'm going at walking speed. Any advice? I'm also struggling with posture on straight but steep downhills (some of the hills in the area are 35-40º). Because of the lean-back it requires to go down them slowly, I find myself gripping onto the wheel with my calves with all my strength, afraid to fall backward. Does anyone have any suggestions? (aside from not tackling that kind of hills until I have better skills ) Off-topic: Is wheel wobbling when braking hard-ish indicative of lack of skill, too much tire pressure or both? (I weight about 73 kg / 160 lb with clothes on and have my V8 at 35 PSI) Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadRunner Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Try not to squeeze the wheel between your legs, stand a little wider that you slightly touch it. Found that out today and it makes everything so much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meepmeepmayer Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 Turning on 30+ degrees downhill? Going down 40 degree inclines? As a new rider? I don't even know what to say... are you sure it's degrees? Even percentages would be crazy, but degrees! That can't quite be true. The world's steepest road is like 19° or so. I'm assuming your numbers are in % and still overblown (the world's steepest road is still like 35% so...) Could you make a few pictures of these hills? I just want to see that! Pics or it didn't happen 10 hours ago, travsformation said: I'm also struggling with posture on straight but steep downhills (some of the hills in the area are 35-40º). Because of the lean-back it requires to go down them slowly, I find myself gripping onto the wheel with my calves with all my strength, afraid to fall backward. EUCs are only so strong, and a V8 is only so strong. On my ACM, I put the feet to the front and then put all the weight on the back edge of the pedal (so the heel is directly over the end of the pedal and can push fully). That works nicely, no wheel grabbing. I assume the wheel grabbing is more for controlling the thin V8 and less for braking itself. Seems like in hindsight the MCM5 would be the ideal wheel for you. If you need one thing, it's torque, torque, torque. 10 hours ago, travsformation said: Does anyone have any suggestions? (aside from not tackling that kind of hills until I have better skills ) You know, sometimes that's just the logical thing to do! Not tackling some hills. Like for 30+° hills. For any rider. 10 hours ago, travsformation said: Off-topic: Is wheel wobbling when braking hard-ish indicative of lack of skill, too much tire pressure or both? (I weight about 73 kg / 160 lb with clothes on and have my V8 at 35 PSI) I'd say it's a indication of a crazy steep hill and nothing more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
existensil Posted November 8, 2018 Share Posted November 8, 2018 11 hours ago, travsformation said: Off-topic: Is wheel wobbling when braking hard-ish indicative of lack of skill, too much tire pressure or both? (I weight about 73 kg / 160 lb with clothes on and have my V8 at 35 PSI) Could be either, or both, or some combination of those factors and your feet placement. Finding the perfect tire pressure for your wheel and your riding style, finding the right feet placement, and getting better will all reduce your wobbles while braking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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