Imarconi Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 I´m copying this from Johan Grimm, he posted this to the Facebook group Gotway Electric Unicycle and I think its good to share. "I'll do a somewhat re-post in a thread of my own to focus on this specific subject; How and why you should set your beep-signals and why the beeps "are your friend". Anyone being a rider skilled enough to hit the top speed now and then must/should 1) turn off every "speed indicator beep" 2) listen carefully for the "last warning beep" Why? Because the "last warning beep" appears dependent on what power there’s left in your batteries. The batteries can be compared with a well from which you pour water. If you pour to fast the well will become empty, at least for a short while and we don't want that! Also, when there's a drought (or you have been pouring for a long while) the overall level of water is lower, then you have to be even more careful, adjust the "speed" of your water tap. With this analogy in mind, why turn the "speed indicator beeps" off? Otherwise you might confuse these pointless alarms with the only really important one!! When the battery is running low, the "last warning beep" comes at much lower speeds. Be aware! It might easily be confused with "speed indicator beeps". And if you don't care enough your controller card will turn off... All LIPO-battery EUC's use a BMS (Battery Management System) that controls the charging. But it is also the BMS that sends the signal "Hello! Stop, you're pouring to fast from my well!!". I.e. you're running to much current from the batteries. Yes, there's also an "absolute maximum speed" setting in the controller card and this is measured to fit the profile of the BMS of your wheel. Of course that setting is calculated on "someone weighing max 70 kg, being 165 cm tall", the average asian. Going uphill the weight plays a major part of the current consumption. Going fast, the overall size of your body plays a major part as wind resistance increases drastically with speed. So my personal theory is that the "absolute maximum speed" is not always the reason for getting a beep, it's more likely the BMS warning for going over limit of allowable current consumption vs calculated energy left in the cells. Also, with a fully charged battery, if you start downhill, the BMS can warn with a beep. But this time the warning tells you that there’s no place to get rid of the current generated by your breaking force. The BMS says “no, I can’t take more, my well is already full!!”. Also here your weight plays a great part; it takes more energy to stop a heavy person than a lighter, simple physics. My self being 98 kg/198 cm, of course I can get a beep with a fully charged Msuper 3 if I start by braking heavily. Of course my size consumes more power going uphill and creating a larger drag force in the wind. Of course I DO NOT want any other beep that might confuse me (or just being annoying in general!). Finally, of course I want a BMS that protects my expensive battery packs from all sorts of abuse. Of course I prefer GotWay over King Song! Therefore 1) turn off every "speed indicator beep" 2) listen carefully to any other beep!!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 This is how I configure my wheels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriull Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 10 hours ago, Imarconi said: I´m copying this from Johan Grimm, he posted this to the Facebook group Gotway Electric Unicycle and I think its good to share. "I'll do a somewhat re-post in a thread of my own to focus on this specific subject; How and why you should set your beep-signals and why the beeps "are your friend". Anyone being a rider skilled enough to hit the top speed now and then must/should 1) turn off every "speed indicator beep" 2) listen carefully for the "last warning beep" Why? Because the "last warning beep" appears dependent on what power there’s left in your batteries. The batteries can be compared with a well from which you pour water. If you pour to fast the well will become empty, at least for a short while and we don't want that! Also, when there's a drought (or you have been pouring for a long while) the overall level of water is lower, then you have to be even more careful, adjust the "speed" of your water tap. With this analogy in mind, why turn the "speed indicator beeps" off? Otherwise you might confuse these pointless alarms with the only really important one!! When the battery is running low, the "last warning beep" comes at much lower speeds. Be aware! It might easily be confused with "speed indicator beeps". And if you don't care enough your controller card will turn off... Agree! I don't like "useless" low speed alarms that beeps all the time and just leads one to learn how to ignore beeping! Maybe with a MSuper V3s+ i would set one ~35-40km/h speed alarm to remind me to not go crazy 10 hours ago, Imarconi said: All LIPO-battery EUC's use a BMS (Battery Management System) that controls the charging. But it is also the BMS that sends the signal "Hello! Stop, you're pouring to fast from my well!!". I.e. you're running to much current from the batteries. Afaik there are only the old firewheels and the Ninbot S1/S2 with a direct communication between the BMS and the mainboard. Solely the battery current is not a real indicator for "dangerous" driving states (near to cutoff, overlean). This could be just calculated and recognized by the mainboard by measuring speed, motor current and battery voltage. 10 hours ago, Imarconi said: Yes, there's also an "absolute maximum speed" setting in the controller card and this is measured to fit the profile of the BMS of your wheel. Of course that setting is calculated on "someone weighing max 70 kg, being 165 cm tall", the average asian. Going uphill the weight plays a major part of the current consumption. Going fast, the overall size of your body plays a major part as wind resistance increases drastically with speed. So my personal theory is that the "absolute maximum speed" is not always the reason for getting a beep, it's more likely the BMS warning for going over limit of allowable current consumption vs calculated energy left in the cells. He means the much discussed "80% power alarm" from gotways? Here were quite some "votes" for this not beeing a real power/"near to any limit" warning but just also a fixed speed alarm (different for each model) - maybe a bit adjusted for lower battery voltages? 10 hours ago, Imarconi said: Also, with a fully charged battery, if you start downhill, the BMS can warn with a beep. But this time the warning tells you that there’s no place to get rid of the current generated by your breaking force. The BMS says “no, I can’t take more, my well is already full!!”... This is just the mainboard measuring the battery voltage and beeping above a certain threshold. And ?tilting back?/ cutting off after a second threshold. The cutting off could come from the BMS - but it again does not communicate with the mainboard or beep. 10 hours ago, Imarconi said: ... Therefore 1) turn off every "speed indicator beep" 2) listen carefully to any other beep!!" Still agree 100% with this conclusion - just the BMS-mainboard communication/intelligence mentioned is a very nice imagination but unfortionately not realized by now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 12 hours ago, Imarconi said: I´m copying this from Johan Grimm, he posted this to the Facebook group Gotway Electric Unicycle and I think its good to share. "I'll do a somewhat re-post in a thread of my own to focus on this specific subject; How and why you should set your beep-signals and why the beeps "are your friend". Anyone being a rider skilled enough to hit the top speed now and then must/should 1) turn off every "speed indicator beep" 2) listen carefully for the "last warning beep" Why? Because the "last warning beep" appears dependent on what power there’s left in your batteries. The batteries can be compared with a well from which you pour water. If you pour to fast the well will become empty, at least for a short while and we don't want that! Also, when there's a drought (or you have been pouring for a long while) the overall level of water is lower, then you have to be even more careful, adjust the "speed" of your water tap. With this analogy in mind, why turn the "speed indicator beeps" off? Otherwise you might confuse these pointless alarms with the only really important one!! When the battery is running low, the "last warning beep" comes at much lower speeds. Be aware! It might easily be confused with "speed indicator beeps". And if you don't care enough your controller card will turn off... All LIPO-battery EUC's use a BMS (Battery Management System) that controls the charging. But it is also the BMS that sends the signal "Hello! Stop, you're pouring to fast from my well!!". I.e. you're running to much current from the batteries. Yes, there's also an "absolute maximum speed" setting in the controller card and this is measured to fit the profile of the BMS of your wheel. Of course that setting is calculated on "someone weighing max 70 kg, being 165 cm tall", the average asian. Going uphill the weight plays a major part of the current consumption. Going fast, the overall size of your body plays a major part as wind resistance increases drastically with speed. So my personal theory is that the "absolute maximum speed" is not always the reason for getting a beep, it's more likely the BMS warning for going over limit of allowable current consumption vs calculated energy left in the cells. Also, with a fully charged battery, if you start downhill, the BMS can warn with a beep. But this time the warning tells you that there’s no place to get rid of the current generated by your breaking force. The BMS says “no, I can’t take more, my well is already full!!”. Also here your weight plays a great part; it takes more energy to stop a heavy person than a lighter, simple physics. My self being 98 kg/198 cm, of course I can get a beep with a fully charged Msuper 3 if I start by braking heavily. Of course my size consumes more power going uphill and creating a larger drag force in the wind. Of course I DO NOT want any other beep that might confuse me (or just being annoying in general!). Finally, of course I want a BMS that protects my expensive battery packs from all sorts of abuse. Of course I prefer GotWay over King Song! Therefore 1) turn off every "speed indicator beep" 2) listen carefully to any other beep!!" Look at the Facebook post! He has been corrected by his "Imagination" of the BMS communicating :-) Thats just wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smoother Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 That's how I do it too, but I haven't considered the "confusing alarms" issue. Just don't see the need for consent beeping at lower speeds. But then again, I'm aware of it as Lassie is always beeping something or other at me. Yes it's confusing. now if someone can hack the KS firmware to kill the full speed tilt back. That would be heaven Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
US69 Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I personally hate the beeping....on all my wheels i see that i close all alarms and that a beeping only occurs when i am near the max Speed of a wheel! Fortunally with my nowadays wheels i dont have to hear any beeps anymore. On my KS18S the 3rd and last Alarm is set to 48kmh...on my Tesla the last Alarm should beep at about 50kmh or even higher. That are Speeds that i never reach, so i can drive quiet all the time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Backe Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 7 hours ago, Chriull said: Agree! I don't like "useless" low speed alarms that beeps all the time and just leads one to learn how to ignore beeping! Maybe with a MSuper V3s+ i would set one ~35-40km/h speed alarm to remind me to not go crazy Afaik there are only the old firewheels and the Ninbot S1/S2 with a direct communication between the BMS and the mainboard. Solely the battery current is not a real indicator for "dangerous" driving states (near to cutoff, overlean). This could be just calculated and recognized by the mainboard by measuring speed, motor current and battery voltage. He means the much discussed "80% power alarm" from gotways? Here were quite some "votes" for this not beeing a real power/"near to any limit" warning but just also a fixed speed alarm (different for each model) - maybe a bit adjusted for lower battery voltages? This is just the mainboard measuring the battery voltage and beeping above a certain threshold. And ?tilting back?/ cutting off after a second threshold. The cutting off could come from the BMS - but it again does not communicate with the mainboard or beep. Still agree 100% with this conclusion - just the BMS-mainboard communication/intelligence mentioned is a very nice imagination but unfortionately not realized by now... Once you get down to 15% battery the alarm starts kicking in, and seems to beep more based on how hard you drive the wheel at those low battery levels. It appears to not be based on fixed speeds. Just my impression. I no longer ride at very high speeds so I never hear the 3rd alarm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LanghamP Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Due to other noises one cannot always hear the beeps; my wheels either have beeps disabled or stacked on top of each other, with the tiltback set relatively low. You can always arrive at your destination two minutes later; riding near the top speed is false economy because one day you'll always accidentally step over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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