Leaperkim Lynx 2700wh: 151V, 20" tire, suspension, 89lb

[Skampster]

I’ve got a set of those limited edition e-rides pedals in the mail. 

[Ryan5508]

The TNT J-2306 tubeless street tire is a winner for me. Much better ride feel and the wobbles are not popping up like my stock street tire. Also the weight limit of the TNT is much higher. Makes me feel a ton safer being a bigger guy. 

 

The Beidou Lynx Cyclops High/Low Beam Headlight is just okay imo. The high beam is nice but the low beam is less illuminating as the stock light. It is cut off much better at the top of the beam. Where I ride it pitch black on a tree covered trail, so more light is always better. Remote is nice but just another thing I have to hold. 

 

Some pictures of the light at night. 

 

Edited August 10 by Ryan5508

[Rollin-on-1]

3 hours ago, Ryan5508 said:

Remote is nice but just another thing I have to hold

I clip the remote to a belt loop while riding and stash it in my moto jacket pocket when I don't need it.  I do wish there was a better way to switch, but after a brief adjustment it doesn't really bother me any more.  

Glad you are liking the new tire!

[Duster]

On 8/8/2024 at 5:19 PM, jimjam.nyc said:

I don't think it's controversial at all. 

Just because these wheels are already great and very popular, doesn't mean we shouldn't discuss ways to make them better in future models.

LK has no history of battery issues, it doesn't mean they should never implement better BMS features.

They are on their 4th iteration of their suspension wheels, it's only natural people will start to find ways it can be improved.

 

The suspension design relies heavily on FastAce, as Leaperkim have implemented effectively a tried-and-true fork design that does perfectly fine on dirt bikes and motorcycles. This fact alone probably explains why Leaperkim don't use rollers while Extreme Bull does (the difference is one uses shocks dedicated to be suspension and structure at once, the other uses shocks that are likely not designed for structural purposes). The fact that dissenters have ignored the motorcycle fork design's proven track record up til yesterday makes each complaint that says "why don't they use rollers" come across as uninformed. And when the response to  information that answers the question is to effectively ignore it and belabor the same talking points, things become less of a discussion and more of a complaints page, and a nitpicky one at that. Now, I had that question myself until I looked up FastAce to see how fork designs typically work, and now I don't keep asking that same question. I may discuss the potential benefits and drawbacks of rollers, but I don't just denounce the current design and deem rollers the end all solution. That wouldn't show any growth or development to my form contributions.

On 8/8/2024 at 7:29 AM, jimjam.nyc said:

It's just a discussion. The only people honestly making a fuss are the ones who don't want to hear about a possible negative point on a LK wheel.

Most are not claiming it's a major issue or a point of failure. It's just a mention that it happens and discussing it.

I'm not sure why the hostility over the discussion on a discussion board.

The hostility you perceive is exasperation with complaints that blow things out of proportion, suggesting (paraphrasing) "Leaperkim wheels are all flexing terribly, and even if that's not true, Leaperkim wheels are all poorly designed, so I'm gonna sell mine and get a better wheel." Isn't that an annoying thing for someone to repeatedly say? The nuance on the previous page from the dissenters (that other wheels can have flex too, and the current design can have as minimal flex) was not present in earlier pages, making each complaint basically say "All of you who think you don't have a problem are wrong! Leaperkim is wrong! Tell me I'm right and join me in denouncing their wheels!" If that kind of messaging were not getting a few "get over it" responses, I'd be surprised. Especially since there's been some passive aggression when suggesting that we who note stability in our own wheels are full of sh!T.

Basically, there is a way to discuss potential flaws, and there is a way that isn't productive. By failing to inquire deeply about the logic and implementation of motorcycle fork design, failing to incorporate new information and modifying their talking points, and also seemingly darling to discuss in good faith (suggesting they and others have the same degree of flex as Brian, but then showing they have nowhere near as much), the vibe of the dissent towards Leaperkim wheels has come across as unproductive, nitpicky, and resistant to exploring concerns and solutions. In a forum where we're supposed to discuss things and provide solutions to each other, you bet it'll get hard to communicate frustration with belabored points without coming across as "hostile," because we are rejecting repeated talking points that have been addressed before and are repeatedly shoved into our conversations as if we had ignored it (which we already put much effort into NOT ignoring). There's only so much tolerance that can be afforded before that good will turns into "just stop already."

[Duster]

41 minutes ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I clip the remote to a belt loop while riding and stash it in my moto jacket pocket when I don't need it.  I do wish there was a better way to switch, but after a brief adjustment it doesn't really bother me any more.  

Glad you are liking the new tire!

I velcro my remote to the front of my seat. It's harder to reach when seated, but It helps me not forget to put it on my wrist or something.

[Rollin-on-1]

9 minutes ago, Duster said:

I velcro my remote to the front of my seat. It's harder to reach when seated, but It helps me not forget to put it on my wrist or something.

I have been cosidering doing the velcro to the wheel thing or possibly velcro to a glove, but I haven't quite found an arrangement that I like better than the simplicity of clipping to my belt loop.  I've only had it for a few weeks so I'm still experimenting with various options.

[Duster]

1 hour ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I have been cosidering doing the velcro to the wheel thing or possibly velcro to a glove, but I haven't quite found an arrangement that I like better than the simplicity of clipping to my belt loop.  I've only had it for a few weeks so I'm still experimenting with various options.

I used to have a turning signal hanging by a wrist strap tied to my wrist guards. It was convenient enough that I could put it into my hand whenever I wanted. But it got ripped off by a handrail once when I was going down a wheelchair ramp.

I could almost imagine a 3d printed platform that mounts in-between the front handle and body, allowing a commanding placement for remotes and stuff using velcro. If I got into 3d printing, I'd have a field day like @Rawnei does with his Leaperkim wheels (he has a whole thread on 3d printed mods).

[Rawnei]

On my custom high-beam/low-beam light I discovered that it was much nicer to just combine the two beams instead of having to switch between high and low beam, then I angle the lamp so that it doesn't blind but due to the diffuse light beam it still lights up above the cut-offt point and with two beams combined it gives a wider vertical beam.

So my personal opinion nowadays is having two beams to switch between is more bothersome than helpful and combining them is the way to go.

Edit: Easy for me to do on my custom built lamp, not as easy on a ready assembled one like Hulaj Cyclops or BD Cyclops, would need disassemble and re-soldering.

Edited August 10 by Rawnei

[Clem604]

If you can find a first gen Cyclop light with the single, super wide beam, I would suggest that. It's a shame the current version of the Cyclop/Beidou light has such a narrow beam. I still really like mine.

Edited August 10 by Clem604

[The Brahan Seer]

On 8/8/2024 at 12:42 PM, Skampster said:

There’s nothing worse when people see something that they think should a problem, make it a problem, but it ain’t.

You don't know that for sure. No-one complains when a parachute is faulty. How do you know that the many wobble issues folk have had isn't also due to the wheel and its ability to dampen them. Just because people say its the lack of skill to blame, it could also mean that the Lynx is very unforgiving and takes a lot of skill/effort to tame. 

[bpong]

using the voltage cutoff feature of the lynx app.  the orig firmware was 9 and after J. McNeil posted his warning about the #9 firmware, i updated to version 11.

today, i got a chance to charge my lynx for the first time;  its voltage before charging is 139V - around 60%.  i was curious about whether or not the firmware will try to balance the cells based on the voltage cutoff setting or will it work only at 151.2V.

i set the cutoff voltage value to the lowest i could get it in the app - 147V.  connected the charger to the lynx, and connected my leaperkim app to the lynx.  the charger worked as it should up till it reached 147 V.   before charging the lynx, my left pack had a diff of about .07,  the right pack had a diff of about .04.  once the charger reached 147V,  it started cycling on and off as reported by other lynx owners.  this cycling went on for at least 30mins, during which the pause inbetween cycles got longer and longer.  during the cycling,  i also used the app to check the pack diffs.  im no coder or electronics wizard but i did see a noticeable change in the results of the charger cycling on and off - it reduced the pack diffs somewhat;  by the time i disconnected the charger,  the left pack had a dif of about .03 - .04,  the right pack had a diff of about .03.  since each pack diffs were reduced in range somewhat during the charger cycling,  im pretty sure the charging program trys to balance the cells in each pack regardless of the voltage cutoff setting value.

what i was hoping for is a final battery pack voltage of 80%.  after letting the lynx sit for 10-15mins turned off,  i turned it back on to check its current voltage reading - 146.7 V, which is roughly somewhere just shy of 85% of 151.2V.  so the apps minimum cutoff value of 147V is good enough to allow an owner to charge their lynx to 85% of full,  to hopefully add more charging cycles to the life of the battery packs.  my only wish for the firmware is that hopefully in the future the programmers at leaperkim would lower the minimum cutoff voltage abit more to 144.72V to allow the packs to charge to the correct 80% voltage value.  im happy the cutoff voltage feature of the leaperkim app does work with the charging software and it does try to balance the packs,  if you leave the charger connected to cycle on and off...

cheers !!! 

Edited August 10 by bpong
Mistake thinking buzzer was a replacement fan, removed that text...

[Rawnei]

20 minutes ago, bpong said:

i always wondered why there is a small spare instrument fan packaged with the lynx's goodies zip bag.  the owner will need to replace the chargers fan sometime in the future considering that the charging software turns the fan on and off so often.  that also brings up another request for a revision of the charging software -  could they simply leave the chargers fan on until the packs are fully charged,  even while its trying to balance the cells.  this would probably also extend the life of that poor small fan inside the charger too...

You mean a spare beeper? They send a spare beeper since it's not waterproof.

[bpong]

1 hour ago, Rawnei said:

You mean a spare beeper? They send a spare beeper since it's not waterproof.

I took another look....you are correct !!!! I will edit my posting.... thnx for the correction !!!

[Skampster]

4 hours ago, bpong said:

what i was hoping for is a final battery pack voltage of 80%.  after letting the lynx sit for 10-15mins turned off,  i turned it back on to check its current voltage reading - 146.7 V, which is roughly somewhere just shy of 85% of 151.2V.  so the apps minimum cutoff value of 147V is good enough to allow an owner to charge their lynx to 85% of full,  to hopefully add more charging cycles to the life of the battery packs.  my only wish for the firmware is that hopefully in the future the programmers at leaperkim would lower the minimum cutoff voltage abit more to 144.72V to allow the packs to charge to the correct 80% voltage value.  im happy the cutoff voltage feature of the leaperkim app does work with the charging software and it does try to balance the packs,  if you leave the charger connected to cycle on and off...

So in order to save your wheel reaching 80% capacity after 500 charges, and people do this because they don’t want a battery with only 80% of it’s capacity available, you in turn only ever using 80% of its capacity the whole time you use it. So you’re purposely putting yourself in a low charge state to avoid a low charge state. How about you just enjoy 100%, with all the benefits of 100% charging and worry about having only 80% at the time if at all, you ever reach that 500 charge state. My Sherman S has done 3600km’s since October, charged to 100% each ride, and at this point ( and I do keep count) it’s only had 29 full charges. That’s 29 out 500. If you do the math, I can guarantee you my Sherman S will probably be on it 3rd owner by then. Charge to 100%, especially with the lynx of all wheels. 
 

also, imo, you’re better off opening up the lynx charger and adjusting the voltage output to charge the wheel to 151v flat and let the charger itself do its programmed balancing routine. To me how the charger is behaving when you set the wheel to 147v is not the same as the charger itself doing the ramp down. What the charger is doing in you situation is simply bumping up the voltage as the battery settles. Also your .03 and .04 is to high of a difference. When balanced well, you should be seeing 0.010-0.017 differences. 

Edited August 11 by Skampster

[t0me]

I dunno if I mentioned it but for users of the CE200 Pidzoom Charger Enhancer.     Set the Lynx internal cut-off higher,  or different to the CE200.      There is some fkery going on with cut-off voltages if they're all the same and the charger has been tweaked to have an accurate 151.2v output too.     

The result is that in some known cases,   the stock charger will shutdown,   off completely,  and won't be able to turn back on for a few minutes at least.    
Its stopped doing it for me since changing the wheel to cut-off at a higher voltage (leaving it to the charger and CE200 to regulate maximum charge voltage).

I was all set to warranty the stock charger till removing the CE200 from the equation stopped the fault,  then a chance conversation with Bob Yan revealed that it was a fault that has been reported to them as happening on occasion since the new firmware for the Lynx included the max charge voltage setting.

[Duster]

16 hours ago, The Brahan Seer said:

You don't know that for sure. No-one complains when a parachute is faulty. How do you know that the many wobble issues folk have had isn't also due to the wheel and its ability to dampen them. Just because people say its the lack of skill to blame, it could also mean that the Lynx is very unforgiving and takes a lot of skill/effort to tame. 

you may have a point about the wheel needing a different approach. After riding the heavier SS for a while, when I got back on my OG Sherman I had a hard time riding stably at 30mph. I chalked it up to a few things:

1. The weight and weight distribution: the Sherman S is not only heavier, but that weight is distributed higher, with higher pedals to boot. It felt like the difference between trying to balance a long stick on my palm VS a short stick: The SS wobbles would be slow and easily corrected, and the OG's wobbles were rapid and hard to keep from starting up again.
2. tire pressure: I rode for the longest time at 35psi, thinking it's the safest for the rim. However, I eventually figured that I'm not a jumper, so i brought it down to 27psi on both my wheels. That greatly improved the stability on both wheels!

So, yeah, I believe each wheel has unique characteristics, making them require both adapted riding styles and tuned setups (tire, psi, pads, pedals, etc.) to produce the best stability for each rider.

[Rawnei]

1 hour ago, Duster said:

you may have a point about the wheel needing a different approach. After riding the heavier SS for a while, when I got back on my OG Sherman I had a hard time riding stably at 30mph. I chalked it up to a few things:

1. The weight and weight distribution: the Sherman S is not only heavier, but that weight is distributed higher, with higher pedals to boot. It felt like the difference between trying to balance a long stick on my palm VS a short stick: The SS wobbles would be slow and easily corrected, and the OG's wobbles were rapid and hard to keep from starting up again.
2. tire pressure: I rode for the longest time at 35psi, thinking it's the safest for the rim. However, I eventually figured that I'm not a jumper, so i brought it down to 27psi on both my wheels. That greatly improved the stability on both wheels!

So, yeah, I believe each wheel has unique characteristics, making them require both adapted riding styles and tuned setups (tire, psi, pads, pedals, etc.) to produce the best stability for each rider.

Rider can also adopt though, I used to ride slightly sub 30PSI and anything beyond 33PSI felt unstable, nowadays I have no problem to ride 35-40PSI, it took more practice but with muscle memory it's now effortless, the only place I find that high PSI is a disadvantage for me is when there is a lot of loose rocks i.e. bigger than gravel then the tire is very jittery when shifting through the rocks (it's still ride-able but not optimal feeling), everything else feels great, even technical off-road at high PSI is great.

[Skampster]

Go and have a look at Dawn Champions latest live stream on YouTube, it seems now that every single crash that she’s witnessed on the lynx is now all to do with the wheel flex. Instead of you know, people just crash at times. 

[Rawnei]

1 minute ago, Skampster said:

Go and have a look at Dawn Champions latest live stream on YouTube, it seems now that every single crash that she’s witnessed on the lynx is now all to do with the wheel flex. Instead of you know, people just crash at times. 

She's an expert at blaming different wheels for various things, she said she is afraid to ride her EX30 nowadays because it pedal dipped with max field weakening setting, instead of just turning it off you know.

[techyiam]

Dawn Champion gave her thoughts on the Lynx via a live video stream on her YouTube Channel.

She explained in details as to why she didn't like the Lynx, and why she won't recommend it, but she didn't talk much in details about the positives.

I am not certain how applicable are her raised issues to the majority of the Lynx owners out there. The Lynx has been out in the market for some time now, so many owners or riders already know how well the Lynx rides for their use cases.

 

[Rollin-on-1]

21 hours ago, Rawnei said:

On my custom high-beam/low-beam light I discovered that it was much nicer to just combine the two beams instead of having to switch between high and low beam, then I angle the lamp so that it doesn't blind but due to the diffuse light beam it still lights up above the cut-offt point and with two beams combined it gives a wider vertical beam.

So my personal opinion nowadays is having two beams to switch between is more bothersome than helpful and combining them is the way to go.

Edit: Easy for me to do on my custom built lamp, not as easy on a ready assembled one like Hulaj Cyclops or BD Cyclops, would need disassemble and re-soldering.

I have the Mr Mayart light and it can do high & low at the same time like you described.  I tend to ride with both on most of the time, but I still turn off the high beam occassionally out of courtesy.  Pointing it low enough not to blind people with the high beam doesn't quite shine far enough ahead during hard acceleration, particularly if there is any sort of incline.  I ended up mounting a flashlight to my glove strap with a pressure switch for those types of situations.  The combo seems to be working well.

[Rawnei]

26 minutes ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I have the Mr Mayart light and it can do high & low at the same time like you described.  I tend to ride with both on most of the time, but I still turn off the high beam occassionally out of courtesy.  Pointing it low enough not to blind people with the high beam doesn't quite shine far enough ahead during hard acceleration, particularly if there is any sort of incline.  I ended up mounting a flashlight to my glove strap with a pressure switch for those types of situations.  The combo seems to be working well.

Yeah that is the downside of not having a flood-like headlight, it's damn if you do damn if you don't, extra flashlight is a good solution for certain scenarios.

[Tony_Inmotion]

I have the Lupine as a helmet lamp... very nice light but very expensive. 

[joyrider]

4 hours ago, Rollin-on-1 said:

I have the Mr Mayart light and it can do high & low at the same time like you described.  I tend to ride with both on most of the time, but I still turn off the high beam occassionally out of courtesy.  Pointing it low enough not to blind people with the high beam doesn't quite shine far enough ahead during hard acceleration, particularly if there is any sort of incline.  I ended up mounting a flashlight to my glove strap with a pressure switch for those types of situations.  The combo seems to be working well.

You mean it has Low & High right?

[joyrider]

4 hours ago, Tony_Inmotion said:

I have the Lupine as a helmet lamp... very nice light but very expensive. 

On Sale! Order 4. Mounts GREAT to helmets. For the first time in a year + I got lazy and didn't have battery charged. Boy did I feel Naked even with my Lynx headlight upgrade! . Love shining light around corners.

https://amzn.to/3WWyXJI

Edited August 11 by joyrider