onkeldanuel Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 1 hour ago, LaveyZFG said: States that is to relief to release pressure inside the shock / How will I know when theres to much pressure inside the shock is new to me, got to check this kind of system Very interesting to release airpressure after service/oilchange for example i guess... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaveyZFG Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 1 hour ago, onkeldanuel said: Very interesting to release airpressure after service/oilchange for example i guess... Thats what I was thinking , will check with eWheels to be sure - If its a bleeding after replacing oil or does it need to be purged periodically for air in the shock Wish the manual stated it more clearly, but you know... we pay $$$ and they dont even bother 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post LaveyZFG Posted January 10 Popular Post Share Posted January 10 (edited) Just replaced the Kenda Knobby with a Shinko 244 - Nothing wrong with the Kenda but wanted to try this one Good clearance, no rubbing whatsoever if you are wondering Quick Notes after disassembling etc : - Beware of the Rims paint, chips easily - Like the patton / Use rim protectors while using your tire irons. They are using cheap finish paint (Sherman S dosent have that issue) - Super easy disassembly coming from the S and Patton (Patton isnt that bad but extra screws) - Removed the non motor cable side , removed that sides crash guards etc - Quite a variety of screw sizes , no biggie but just be aware. - When I put back the battery box I noticed it wouldnt go into the top notches , you have to first secure the suspension shock assembly screws and then you can put the remaining 4 top notch screws. - The most infuriating reassembly is the damned trolley handle - It took more time to properly deal with the installation than the whole wheel assembly LOL. It has a rubber cover on top of each shaft supposedly to keep in the trolley handle but it pushes down, your mileage may vary - Not quite fond of the fuse box holders, dont know why they replaced the tried and true (Maybe higher voltage?) need to put some heat shrink over those some day Edited January 10 by LaveyZFG 9 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flying W Posted January 11 Share Posted January 11 On 1/10/2024 at 6:54 AM, LaveyZFG said: States that is to relief to release pressure inside the shock / How will I know when theres to much pressure inside the shock is new to me, got to check this kind of system The fork, if it's like a motorcycle fork, should be around atmosphere pressure to be consistent in feel. As it heats up or on a hot day then air inside expands and can make it stiffer. For motorcycles companies make caps called speed bleeders that you just push down to let out the pressure (while holding the fork topped out of course). I used to have these on my old Husky 610. Forks make heat through friction too so during rides I'd let the pressure out. This was farkle for me as I was never an elite rider that could feel a difference, but they were not expensive and just added another "thing" to play with on the bike. The only time I really noticed would be going from 50f to 60f mountain down to 90f to 100f desert. That change in pressure was noticeable and not relieving it could prematurely wear fork seals. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post onkeldanuel Posted January 12 Popular Post Share Posted January 12 (edited) 14 hours ago, Flying W said: The fork, if it's like a motorcycle fork, should be around atmosphere pressure to be consistent in feel. As it heats up or on a hot day then air inside expands and can make it stiffer. For motorcycles companies make caps called speed bleeders that you just push down to let out the pressure (while holding the fork topped out of course). I used to have these on my old Husky 610. Forks make heat through friction too so during rides I'd let the pressure out. This was farkle for me as I was never an elite rider that could feel a difference, but they were not expensive and just added another "thing" to play with on the bike. The only time I really noticed would be going from 50f to 60f mountain down to 90f to 100f desert. That change in pressure was noticeable and not relieving it could prematurely wear fork seals. Theres another great tuning possibility...you can start with a lower amount of oil in the shocks for example to make your compression softer / airgap in the damper bigger (For example if you have seen the ride one review of the Patton they talk about how they lowered the amount of oil in the Patton shocks by about 30-40% and were super happy with the outcome/new behaviour) Lets say 100ml instead of the stock 150ml for the lynx as an low starting point and then you can add oil in 10ml increments via the bleeding caps with a syringe if needed to your liking... without the need of any repeated disassembling !! Thats great possibility in my mind.. Since i ordered an 70lb Version for my 190lb total weight i will test this out to get the best combination out for me.. I want to test a lower viscosity oil (2,5w) in the compression side and higher(7,5w) in the rebound side to slow the stiffer spring down a little more (perhaps needed) too in addition (see below graph how this changes the compression/stroke/travel characteristics especially if combine both measures)... -->graph shows Increasing Viscosity + amount of oil on the compression , but also the other way around applies the same for lowering both... interesting link too here: https://oem-motorcycle.myshopify.com/blogs/posts/getting-the-most-out-of-your-old-forks?shpxid=7eb07ef9-1801-4584-83c1-9c1b8a566e96#:~:text=The volume of the oil,results in a stiffer fork. Edited January 12 by onkeldanuel 3 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stizl Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 5 hours ago, onkeldanuel said: Theres another great tuning possibility...you can start with a lower amount of oil in the shocks for example to make your compression softer / airgap in the damper bigger (For example if you have seen the ride one review of the Patton they talk about how they lowered the amount of oil in the Patton shocks by about 30-40% and were super happy with the outcome/new behaviour) Lets say 100ml instead of the stock 150ml for the lynx as an low starting point and then you can add oil in 10ml increments via the bleeding caps with a syringe if needed to your liking... without the need of any repeated disassembling !! Thats great possibility in my mind.. Since i ordered an 70lb Version for my 190lb total weight i will test this out to get the best combination out for me.. I want to test a lower viscosity oil (2,5w) in the compression side and higher(7,5w) in the rebound side to slow the stiffer spring down a little more (perhaps needed) too in addition (see below graph how this changes the compression/stroke/travel characteristics especially if combine both measures)... -->graph shows Increasing Viscosity + amount of oil on the compression , but also the other way around applies the same for lowering both... interesting link too here: https://oem-motorcycle.myshopify.com/blogs/posts/getting-the-most-out-of-your-old-forks?shpxid=7eb07ef9-1801-4584-83c1-9c1b8a566e96#:~:text=The volume of the oil,results in a stiffer fork. Great info and ideas here. I would like to add that people should be careful not to overfill the oil, as this will increase the air pressure in the forks during compressions and risks causing oil leaks and/or damaging the seals. I’d err on the side of increasing oil viscosity, if needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onkeldanuel Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) 1 hour ago, stizl said: Great info and ideas here. I would like to add that people should be careful not to overfill the oil, as this will increase the air pressure in the forks during compressions and risks causing oil leaks and/or damaging the seals. I’d err on the side of increasing oil viscosity, if needed Exactly...fill more oil then stock into is for sure only possible by about 10-very max 20% I tested this already by myself on the sherman S (i put in 200ml instead of the stock 150ml) and it almost locked out my suspension (reduced travel by 50%), 170ml was good then after i redone it.... But lowering oil should give no problem of this kind... Im not sure how or if oil level changes anything on the rebound side leg..., maybe someone else has more clue.. So i would fill in same amount on both legs but less then stock for sure and with maybe the mentioned different viscosity for each leg of the fork Edited January 12 by onkeldanuel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) Any tips on getting the street tire unglued from the rim? Edited January 12 by Paul D This worked great, but I wrestled for hours before I worked smarter. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 1 hour ago, Paul D said: Any tips on getting the street tire unglued from the rim? If it does come off easily, then use some heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 52 minutes ago, techyiam said: If it does come off easily, then use some heat. Lots of heat used. Didn’t work until I used a clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted January 12 Share Posted January 12 (edited) 6 hours ago, Paul D said: Lots of heat used. Didn’t work until I used a clamp. OK. But that is the right approach. Heating it up first is the first step. And then if it doesn't come off readily, then you have to use physical force. The wrong approach would have been to use force first. Edited January 13 by techyiam 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 this looks like fun! not for me because no Bob. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t0me Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 3 hours ago, techyiam said: OK. But that is the right approach. Heating up first is the first step. And then if it doesn't come off readily, then you have to use physical force. The wrong approach would have been to use force first. Is this to get the bead to release when removing a tyre? How do you supply the heat? Hot water? Hair dryer? Hot air gun? I've never used heat doing a tyre, so the idea is new for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 Toight like a tiger. I used a heat gun. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 if anybody has received a lynx from ewheels with the street tire option, could u please take a picture of the tire's sidewall load ratings and max psi cold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 thanks so much. it's been like pulling teeth to get information on this tire. and it was installed tubeless? with rim glue? whatever that is. so, if the lynx weighs 90 pounds rolling, if u use the 20% allowance rule for braking, 230 pounds times 20% or 230 pounds minus 46 pounds. the lynx and it's tire at max pressure cold should perform as designed for a rider weighing 184 pounds suited up. this math isn't mine, it's the motorcycle tire experts theory. but it makes sense to me. but riders have been riding deflated tires since 2017 and riders have been wobbling off since 2017, and yet this stoner, has never had wobbles until his tire was going flat. do what u want. ignore the math. these sidewall markings aren't suggestions. if u can't ride on a properly inflated tire, deflate ur tire and go SLOW! ur not ready to go fast. when u can balance on a hard tire, properly inflated, ur ready. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 7 minutes ago, novazeus said: thanks so much. it's been like pulling teeth to get information on this tire. and it was installed tubeless? with rim glue? Yes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 (edited) 9 minutes ago, Paul D said: Yes. well, that's progress. haha, i was considering gifting u one of my 80/90 r14 michelin pilot street 2 for u to try fitment. gifting u a $50 tire is less painful than getting a $4200 wheel with a tire i might hate. i'm still pissed king song baited and switched me with this totally pos jiluer tire on the s18, and now i have this slow turd i don't want to waste my time on changing the frigging tire, and it only cost $1699 for the molicel version. hate it, only because of the tire. everything else is perfect, except it's slow, and not it's fault. if i were in the business of selling euc's, knowing there's some kind of embargos on tires that prevent shipping tires from the usa to china, for example, i'd get my mechanic, and the new wheel, and since i'm licated in the usa, try any tire for fitment and take an instructional video while ur at it. uh, the tire is the only thing making contact with planet earth, if ur doing it right, so yeah, tires are a big deal for a one tire device! Edited January 13 by novazeus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 1 minute ago, novazeus said: but riders have been riding deflated tires since 2017 and riders have been wobbling off since 2017, and yet this stoner, has never had wobbles until his tire was going flat. do what u want. ignore the math. these sidewall markings aren't suggestions. if u can't ride on a properly inflated tire, deflate ur tire and go SLOW! ur not ready to go fast. when u can balance on a hard tire, properly inflated, ur ready. I ride my S22 on stock tire with an inflation pressure of 15 psi. And it rides fantastic. I don't get wobbles of any kind. What is that one big difference between a car and an euc when it comes to overloading a tire. For a car, if the tires are overloaded, most likely the tires will be overloaded regardless whether there is a driver in the car or not. For an euc, even if the tire is overloaded, it is highly unlikely the wheel will be overloaded without a rider. Also, what are the serious negative consequences of overloaded an euc tire. For cars, it can overheat the tire. Also the tire geometry will be off, and etc., hence tire life can be greatly reduced. For myself, all my wheels had good tire life, and rode better will lower tire pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 2 minutes ago, techyiam said: I ride my S22 on stock tire with an inflation pressure of 15 psi. u ride at 15psi on pavement? how fast do u go? 10psi offroad doesn't matter, if the tube doesn't pinch. u don't get wobbles offroad. there's no surface tension. and, don't hurt urself, go to a fence or handicap ramp. tmrw morning jacked up ur tire to the proper pressure, idk what ur riding weight is, just put it at max 41psi cold, and see what it feels like on a hard surface. if u and i rode together down here, u would run out of juice miles earlier because ur pushing that deflated tire. plus, i could probably bait u into a faceplant. one motorcycle rider safe, two screwing around racing is dangerous. i thought marty was bad running 28psi in every wheel he owns regardless of the tire or wheel size. don't know how that retired engineer came up with that number. must be an engineer's dart board. i'm kinda stuck on this logic thing like spock. i don't think i can think illogically like a human. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
techyiam Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 6 minutes ago, novazeus said: u ride at 15psi on pavement? how fast do u go? I feel very comfortable at 30+ mph on main roads. 8 minutes ago, novazeus said: and, don't hurt urself, go to a fence or handicap ramp. tmrw morning jacked up ur tire to the proper pressure, idk what ur riding weight is, just put it at max 41psi cold, and see what it feels like on a hard surface. I started with around 35 psi first. Then I went down by 5 psi at at time. And it rode better and better as the tire pressure went lower. I have done that with all my wheels. My Abrams is now at 15 psi too. I started at about 35 psi too, I think. I tried 40 psi on my V12 and T3. They just rode crazy squirrelly. So I keep lowering the tire pressure. With an aftermarket 16x2.125 tire on my T3, it rode best with a tire pressure of 30 psi. On my V12, it rode best at around 20 psi. Regarding mileage, I get about the same. When the temperature is not hoovering around the freezing point, I lose 1% battery per 1 km. But this morning I rode at 8.6 F, my mileage was worse. We got some Arctic air coming down recently. Lucky us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hellkitten Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 @techyiam Are you running a stiff sidewall or tubeless tires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
novazeus Posted January 13 Share Posted January 13 1 hour ago, techyiam said: I feel very comfortable at 30+ mph on main roads. I started with around 35 psi first. Then I went down by 5 psi at at time. And it rode better and better as the tire pressure went lower. I have done that with all my wheels. My Abrams is now at 15 psi too. I started at about 35 psi too, I think. I tried 40 psi on my V12 and T3. They just rode crazy squirrelly. So I keep lowering the tire pressure. With an aftermarket 16x2.125 tire on my T3, it rode best with a tire pressure of 30 psi. On my V12, it rode best at around 20 psi. Regarding mileage, I get about the same. When the temperature is not hoovering around the freezing point, I lose 1% battery per 1 km. But this morning I rode at 8.6 F, my mileage was worse. We got some Arctic air coming down recently. Lucky us. haha, try this. turn the power off on ur s22 and push it across a hard floor, power off, using the front handle or whatever. then pump the tire up to the recommended pressure of 41psi, and then push it across the floor. is it easier with an inflated tire? read up on motorcycle tires, not car tires. motorcycle tires are what we use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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