Jump to content

Leaperkim Lynx 2700wh: 151V, 20" tire, suspension, 89lb


RagingGrandpa

Recommended Posts

31 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

Thinking about the Lynx in comparison to my Sherman S. On my Sherman S I can ride at decent enough speeds for ~100km and get home with ~38% battery…

but I already have my 1,100cc motorcycle, my e-MTB, my new Inmotion RS scooter (quick AF), my Sherman S and my Inmotion V12HT - it is hard to justify buying a 3rd EUC.

I managed 56mi on the Patton but had to use low power mode at the end and slow down to 20-ish mph. The extra ~500 watt hours combined with the added headroom should tip the Lynx right into the perfect zone for my longer rides. 
 

That’s a great stable of rides you have there!  I just sold my V12HT yesterday to justify making room for the Lynx. Still, I’ll be a few thousand poorer at the end of the day. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, KiwiMark said:

Thinking about the Lynx in comparison to my Sherman S. On my Sherman S I can ride at decent enough speeds for ~100km and get home with ~38% battery…

but I already have my 1,100cc motorcycle, my e-MTB, my new Inmotion RS scooter (quick AF), my Sherman S and my Inmotion V12HT - it is hard to justify buying a 3rd EUC.

I managed 56mi on the Patton but had to use low power mode at the end and slow down to 20-ish mph. The extra ~500 watt hours combined with the added headroom should tip the Lynx right into the perfect zone for my longer rides. 
 

That’s a great stable of rides you have there!  I just sold my V12HT yesterday to justify making room for the Lynx. Still, I’ll be a few thousand poorer at the end of the day. 

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, hydracricket said:

So the 70lb feels too firm for you? I'm about your weight maybe slightly more, and I was even thinking 62lb based on what others have said. 

Also which size flow pads do you have?

70lb too firm. I do jumps and drops. Whilst the weather isn't good for my dirt jumps to test, I do think 66lb would be an ideal middle ground.

I have the large flows. They fit, but not in my ideal config.

1 hour ago, MandatoryFun said:

Which tire did you get? All the reviewers only have the knobby tire. I wanted to hear about someone's experience with the street tire. I went with the street tire but I'm concerned that it will be more prone to speed or braking wobbles than the knobby.

Kenda Knobby, sorry.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, UniVehje said:

If the light is blinding oncoming traffic that might be a dealbreaker for me. A small detail but this should be done properly. It’s just a stupid reason to attract bad attention on already illegal vehicle. 

It definitely will but there are already aftermarket options and you can just tape over half the light if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, UniVehje said:

If the light is blinding oncoming traffic that might be a dealbreaker for me. A small detail but this should be done properly. It’s just a stupid reason to attract bad attention on already illegal vehicle. 

Which wheels doesn't have lights that blind oncoming traffic? It's like the norm unfortunately.

Fortunately on the LeaperKim wheels there are 3rd party options you can easily replace them (even DIY option, I posted everything needed to swap the light to an excellent one that doesn't blind).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, hydracricket said:

According to that chart I'm kind of on the cusp between the 62 lb and the 66 lb 😅 but I would imagine I'd be able to adjust it to a comfortable point with either spring

It's all about sag that's why using your (riding) weight to determine spring is important.

Edited by Rawnei
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Got the LeaperKim Bt Lou(y) error today.

I charged the wheel fully, and left it to balance then immediately went out on it afterwards.

It turned on and after about 20 meters it started beeping, displayed the error, started tilt back and displayed a countdown till cutout. It did this 3 times in total and then stopped. 

Traditionally, this error has been caused by a battery imbalance, but I think it also does it when the cells are overcharged or overheated. I didn't check the battery zone temps at the time. Just kept riding as in my head overcharge was the most likely culprit seeing as the packs were not actually that different in voltage.

TL;DR

Problem:
Error - Bt Lou (in other wheels means cell imbalance)
Probable Cause - Overcharging
Fix - Ride to deplete the charge

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nice unboxing review. finally got a good look at their street tire mounted. looks ok to me. 

and nice looking package. kudos to jason and leaperkim. very polished. 

 

Edited by novazeus
  • Like 1
  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/27/2023 at 8:08 AM, PourUC said:

Got the LeaperKim Bt Lou(y) error today.

....

I had this error with my Patton straight out of the box. Wheel wouldn't self balance, and the advanced menu showed a 10v differential between the left and right packs. Ended up having to send the wheel back.

I read somewhere that one possible cause could be ribbing on the inner side of the battery cover digging into a pack as a result of a side impact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Wonton said:

I read somewhere that one possible cause could be ribbing on the inner side of the battery cover digging into a pack as a result of a side impact.

This specific cause was ONLY relevant to the OG Sherman, with it's plastic side covers having the reinforcing ribs you mentioned in your post!

These were later removed either by modding oneself (as per the photo below) and then taken out completely by Leaperkim for the release of the Sherman Max.

So, this occurrence of the "BT Lou" issue cannot in any way be attributed to battery cover ribs digging into the BMS, as there are NO ribs present on these Newer Leaperkim wheels!

1697003965_ShermanPanelsNew.png.5e884866

Edited by fbhb
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, fbhb said:

This specific cause was ONLY relevant to the OG Sherman, with it's plastic side covers having the reinforcing ribs you mentioned in your post!

...

Good to know! That eliminates the panel theory, but I suppose deepens the mystery. Anyway, it's a little disconcerting that this issue appears to not be resolved yet.

Edited by Wonton
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Wonton said:

Good to know! Anyway, it's a little disconcerting that this issue appears to not be resolved yet.

But there is no widespread issue to fix, something happened to your wheel specifically and it gave an appropriate error to warn you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Rawnei said:

But there is no widespread issue to fix, something happened to your wheel specifically and it gave an appropriate error to warn you.

It may not be "widespread", but it's affected two other wheel models, and tech support had no idea of the cause in my case. Again, a little disconcerting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Wonton said:

It may not be "widespread", but it's affected two other wheel models, and tech support had no idea of the cause in my case. Again, a little disconcerting.

It's a generic error, something happened to your wheel specifically, of course nobody can answer what exactly happened.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Wonton said:

That's the first time I've seen it described anywhere as a "generic error".

Your batteries were out of balance when you got it for whatever reason we don't know and it's not something common.

I don't know why you are so determined in making this more complicated than it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Wonton said:

It may not be "widespread", but it's affected two other wheel models, and tech support had no idea of the cause in my case. Again, a little disconcerting.

Not at all.

In the case of your Patton, there is nothing to fix on the production line. Your unit was an outlier. And you got a replacement under warranty.

As for the ribbing culprit, can you provide a link to your source. You appear to be linking issues from more than one model together without details.

The Patton battery boxes are made from aluminum extrusions. The inside walls are smooth.

How does the two other models affected by the same issue. Exactly what are the issues, and what were the wheel models? Can you provide the links?

As is, you are spreading FUD. I see no technical merit in your claims.

 

razbiraem-monokoleso-veteran-patton-81.j

Edited by techyiam
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/26/2023 at 4:08 PM, PourUC said:

Bt Lou(y) error

If you don't have factory support for whatever reason, it's not so difficult to diagnose yourself... Unwrap the packs, measure individual cell voltages, inspect the PCB for physical damage, replace & rebalance based on inspection. 

I think the most common cause for the BMS error is physical damage (including corrosion) which will be visually evident.

(Nice to have a warranty tho.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, RagingGrandpa said:

If you don't have factory support for whatever reason, it's not so difficult to diagnose yourself... Unwrap the packs, measure individual cell voltages, inspect the PCB for physical damage, replace & rebalance based on inspection. 

I think the most common cause for the BMS error is physical damage (including corrosion) which will be visually evident.

(Nice to have a warranty tho.)

It hasn't happened again, so I will check if it does. I think it was overcharge though because I had just charged the wheel past 4.2 volts on all cells to see when the charger would stop. It didn't.

 

Thing is, I charged it similarly the day prior and it turned itself off sooner. The wheel itself displays a lower voltage than what the batts added up equal. So I think the issue with charging lies there. Not sure exactly though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wrongway says Leaperkim Wheels still experience pedal dip on braking and acceleration, is this also the case with turning?

Every other manufacturer has fixed this "issue" or perhaps never had it. So do Leaperkim have something in the works to remedy this?

This is actually a deal breaker for me and I do really like the Lynx.

  • Upvote 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, The Brahan Seer said:

Wrongway says Leaperkim Wheels still experience pedal dip on braking and acceleration,

Ride One says otherwise, if you are referring to over-torquing.

But if you are referring to pedal dip due to soft mode, then all euc's would do it, since that is the very definition of soft mode.

Time-stamped.

 

 

Edited by techyiam
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, The Brahan Seer said:

is this also the case with turning?

Not when I rode the Lynx. Mind you it was brief, but I certainly did not experience any discernible pedal dipping while turning.

Moreover, even my Abrams doesn't pedal dip during turning.

I also rode two different Pattons, and neither one pedal dip during turning.

My Begode T3 pedal dip during turning, a lot in fact.

Edited by techyiam
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...