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Cerbera's Master V2.5 thread


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54 minutes ago, Topkek said:

The Gan Buck module I referred to above as can buck.

 

Yep, I swapped out Charge board and Satellite board, but I did not change this part above, and was unaware it was something that needed changing ! What does it do, and in what way were the originals duff, do you know ?

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13 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Yep, I swapped out Charge board and Satellite board, but I did not change this part above, and was unaware it was something that needed changing ! What does it do, and in what way were the originals duff, do you know ?

No idea, I was just checking your dealers gave you all the parts as some of them didn’t give the bump stop.  I changed all the boards and had no issue charging, does take some time on Green to hit 134 though.

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1 hour ago, Topkek said:

No idea, I was just checking your dealers gave you all the parts as some of them didn’t give the bump stop.  I changed all the boards and had no issue charging, does take some time on Green to hit 134 though.

Well no they didn't then ! :) Would be good to know what that does if anyone else has any ideas !

Mine also takes a little while on green to get to 134.0, and usually stops there.

Rain looks like it might be pausing, so can't resist giving it a little boost back up there in case a ride becomes possible.

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Hit the 1000 mile mark today (what a ride - absolutely lovin' it !), and immediately encountered the 'counter not goin' any higher than that' bug ! I presume that might be fixed in a firmware update ?

Still don't know whether to risk one of those or not, but would like to try it via EUC World. Any tips to not brick it ?

I might just reset the counter so I know when to do the 1500 mile service !

 

Edited by Cerbera
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Oh dear - I have been infected by the need for speed ! Since November last year I have been ever-so-gently pottering about on my Master, and truly getting my muscles used to controlling it at all the low speeds, and learning how the tyre reacts and how to mange the weight with my relatively feeble frame etc etc. 2 factors have prevented me getting faster a lot sooner:

1. My wheel came slightly mis-calibrated, so it rolled back gently automatically unless I countered it, which initially I took to be a good thing as it assisted in rolling the wheel back under me after free dismounts. This has had the corollary effect that I have to push harder than I would otherwise to accelerate.

2. My CST tyre gets unstable and a bit wobbly at around 40 kph, such that I have previously assumed that might get worse if I push faster, so I hadn't been doing that so much, if at all !

Today, however, everything changed. I recalibrated the wheel to remove the backward roll tendency. And I realised that once you get to 40 kph, if you keep pushing, you get past the wobble zone and into a new sort of 'stability' feeling at around 50+ ! I feel like a level has been unlocked, and today I must confess I did my 25 miles shamefully fast in places,  albeit only where it was safe to do so and I was isolated from traffic. I still hope that is the exception rather than the rule, and I still try and ride slowly and sensibly on all the shared cycle paths and whatnot, but it is nice to finally give it some beans and use something of the massive power of that machine, which I finally feel like I am fully embracing !

Consequently, EUCW alarms have been recalibrated !

L1 (pre-alarm, no beeping) 40 kph (so I know when I have crept past cycle speed on the cycleways etc)

L2 (pre-alarm, no beeping ) 55 kph

L3 65 kph

My current hard limit for how-fast-I-dare-go-whilst-being-relatively-sure-it-might-not-cut-out-on-me on the Master is 70 kph (at anything >120v) and 40-50 kph max when under that voltage. Interesting (to me at least) to see if that number ever climbs any higher in the future, which is why I log it here now ! :)

Edited by Cerbera
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39 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

My current hard limit for how-fast-I-dare-go-whilst-being-relatively-sure-it-might-not-cut-out-on-me on the Master is 70 kph. Interesting (to me at least) to see if that number ever climbs any higher in the future, which is why I log it here now

Have you considered checking where you are at, pwm-wise, at 70 km/h too see roughly how much headroom you have? (Should you have Android, use the equivalent app.)

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1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Have you considered checking where you are at, pwm-wise, at 70 km/h too see roughly how much headroom you have?

Not so far - I have been using the safety margin reported in EUCW, and try not to go under 30%, which I think should be pretty conservative, given my extra light weight.

I do have Android, which app do you mean please ?

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7 hours ago, techyiam said:

At 70 km/h, what was the reported safety margin? Thanks.

I'll let you know when I get there ! At 50 kph exactly it says safety margin is 45% if that's any help ? and at 40 kph it is around 60%.

Here's a link to one of my tours so you can see in more detail.

Edited by Cerbera
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23 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

I'll let you know when I get there ! At 50 kph exactly it says safety margin is 45% if that's any help ? and at 40 kph it is around 60%.

Thanks.

That is interesting. You lost roughly 15% in headroom to gain 10 km/h from 40 km/h.

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1 hour ago, techyiam said:

Thanks.

That is interesting. You lost roughly 15% in headroom to gain 10 km/h from 40 km/h.

That doesn't sound right. I may have got my figures slightly wrong above, and been further confused by what EUCW reports as a top speed of 44 kph yesterday, was definitely showing me 51 kph on my phone at the time !

So to be extra clear, EUCW adjusted that speed down to 44 kph, which presumably means the safety margin at 'true' 44 kph is 47% ?

And we can compare that to the safety margin at what the phone told me was 40, but EUCW adjusted down to 34 kph, where it says safety margin is 60%.

Which is more like the difference I would expect ! Sorry about initial confusion !

 

Edited by Cerbera
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12 hours ago, Cerbera said:

Oh dear - I have been infected by the need for speed !

Congratulations! I've always had the "need for speed". I always ride appropriately slow when riding around people, on sidewalks, and general purpose paths. But when I'm in the street I will crank it up to flow with traffic. The street is not my preference  but it's unavoidable. How ever, on my Friday night commute I was a bit immature. A dog owner or two ( couldn't tell it was too dark) thought it would be funny to let their dogs chase after me. They were in a fenced "off leash" dog area. I teased them for about a half mile before they got tired. (medium sized dogs) No one was on the pathway that I was traveling and anywhere else for that matter. I reached 40 mph (64kph) very quickly. The dogs only kept up to about 30mph (48kph). I slowed down several times to let them catch up and then I would pull away. No warning beeps or alarms from the wheel. The power felt very stable. With my weight and height I'm very sensitive to power output. I'm very thankful to @Freestylerfor the development of the pwm tiltback. I was finally able to flash my Master with it.

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Ever since I've had my Master I've been riding around with my waterproof backpack cover whenever the rain is looking possible.

It's been great, in that it has kept my Master dry in most of the places that count, and fits over the unit nicely and quickly, but one thing that has been driving me mad is trying to use the trolley handle, like in town, where is a lot of dismounting and re-mounting and I find I can't properly use the handle without removing the cover.

Well, only 4 months later, big-brain me FINALLY had the idea of putting it under the handle like below, and that's problem solved I think, and double bonus that the handle holds the material down right over the charge port area, where it is most vulnerable. (My master didn't even come with the white rubber seals for the charge ports !)

image.thumb.png.0f293432f4b7eaf065cc375b728d05d4.png

If I control the bunching where it passes under the handle I can just about get it to fully close so it isn't up and vulnerable like in the pic above.

Still annoying that I can't see the display, and it obscures my headlights though. Surprised someone hasn't knocked up a specific cover for it with a clear section and better solution for handle usage !

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Yeah I did look for clear rucksack covers but no joy. And you can't just use any clear bag, because they are typically not the right shape, and the elastic is key to making it work. You can get elasticated clear bath hats (I tried mum's), but they are not quite big enough ! :) Of course there are ways around that, plastic sheeting and strapping for example, but that's far too home made-looking and needlessly faffy ! The elasticated covers you can just whip out, and get on that wheel in 2 seconds flat, so you can combat even the most surprise downpours !

Edited by Cerbera
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Well, I have done the 1000 mile service, which it seemed to pass OK, but my celebratory ride today was cut dramatically short by the appearance of of some rather worrying noises and behaviour that I have never seen before from a Master. Quick recap of events to date:

Did the 1000 mile service over 3 days, and did a ride after each 'section' was complete.

On Day 1 I removed all the grizzla fairings on the motor cable side, removed, checked the battery pack fixings on that side, and cleared a whole load of forest floor out from around the bearing covers / axle / pedal block where it had accumulated since re-greasing. Re-assembled, test ride perfectly fine.

On day 2 I repeated all that the other side. More forest floor removed but again bearing covers intact and looking OK. Also pumped up shock, which had somehow lost 60 PSI in the 3 months since last inspection. Again, test ride totally fine, no more bottoming out / crunking ! However that was a wet ride, but also a very fast one, and no problems.

Today I did the electronic inspections, found all that to be fine, and reassembled, pleased that my service was complete and I had seemingly found no problems.

Jumping on suspension at length, and then pendulum-ing indoors produced no unusual noises, and everything seemed fine. Altered my calibration from -3 degrees to level.

Once I got down the drive however, in all my armour I was suddenly getting a loud rubbing sort of noise, which seemed unconnected to suspension, and was intermittent, but I felt a slight 'roughness' or subtle joltiness through the pedals and heard enough noise for it to make me stop, and check the wheel for obstructions, of which there were none. I remounted, and wheeled back up the drive - silent and normal ! Tried again, and this time the noise was back and I could definitely feel it affecting the motor somehow, which seemed to have gone 'lumpy' I suppose is the best word for it. Balance was unaffected, as was the forward motion of the wheel, but I would keep getting intermittent grinding and lumpiness, which was not linked to revolutions of the wheel.

I rode back home, (was rained off anyway, so no further outdoor tests), checked again for obstructions (still none), did a free-run speed test, and it topped out at 109 kph with no unusual noises. Wheeled around the kitchen / lounge it is perfectly silent. On it side, off, the wheel is still utterly silent and free-spinning no matter how many times I manually do it. I can wear all my armour and jump up and down on the wheel indoors (stationary) and no bad noises. So probably not that.

If it was bearings issue, surely I would hear something when spinning it up unloaded when off, or when wheeling it about, trolley-wise ? Yet when under my weight, and moving over 10 kph, something is producing a sound and pedal feel I have not experienced before that definitely isn't right and doesn't feel safe to ride, even though it didn't drop me at any point or seem to have any problem balancing. It just felt... intermittently 'rough'.

Does that ring any bells with anyone ? Any ideas ? if it isn't suspension or bearings, or electronics, what else is there ?!

Further tests tomorrow, and I will see if I can get a recording of it. Cheers guys.

 

Edited by Cerbera
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Some ideas: Loose pedal hangers (check alignment of kickstand and space between pedal hangers and motor), something with the small mini fender on the suspension bridge (check that it's still properly attached and nothing broken), dirt in suspension system (release all air from shock and check how it slides).

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14 hours ago, Paul A said:

Maybe try these videos, and see if the sound matches.

I think it sounds most like No 2, which was solved with the gel pad. I can't see if mine has one of those or not without removing the mainboard, which is stuck down so I am loathed to do it, but I suspect not. 

Seems a silly thing but I will try setting my calibration back to where I had it the other day on the off-chance that makes any difference.

8 hours ago, Rawnei said:

Some ideas:

Cheers - I have checked all those areas, and although the shock itself is pretty dirty, the suspension doesn't make any noise when I am jumping up and down on it, so i am think that's probably OK.

Next round of tests this afternoon hopefully...

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11 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

the noise

 

Sounds like rubber noise from the pitch.

Intermittent, not constant.

Big grind noise around that corner.....that seems to be an indicator of what preludes the noise.

Perhaps when the wheel is leaning, the tyre then rubs against something.

Maybe the maintenance disassembly/reassembly has been the cause of things changing.

Perhaps the axle has not been sufficiently tightened, and there is movement in the alignment of the wheel, when going around a corner.

Edited by Paul A
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