Begode V2 Master Rotation Noise just started

[Paul A]

Any solvents required to help remove the old grease/contaminants? 

Or just wipe out best as possible with cotton buds/paper towels?

[techyiam]

If you are going to regrease, or the existing grease has been contaminated, it is probably better to get an artist brush, tissue, paper towel, and some solvent to clean and remove the old grease. I guess if the existing grease is clean, and you are certain the new grease is compatible then, I guess you can skip a step.

[Cerbera]

7 km test ride complete, in wet conditions. Not a single knock, creak, rattle or unexpected noise. So that's me maximum happy, and having delivery day all over again

Thank you everyone - you were excellent ! 

[Funky]

Small painting brush and WD-40. Gets the old grease out very quickly. (WD-40 destroys grease.) Afterwards simply rinse under hot water. And dry them with paper towel or use hair dryer to get 100% water out. That's how i changed my new bearing grease for better marine grease.

[Funky]

On 10/30/2022 at 5:34 PM, Paul A said:

Yes, might not need to use blowtorch to remove old bearings.

 

 

This method is way better..

I even used this diy tool. When i changed my bearings:

 

24 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

7 km test ride complete, in wet conditions. Not a single knock, creak, rattle or unexpected noise. So that's me maximum happy, and having delivery day all over again

Thank you everyone - you were excellent ! 

Great news!  

I had similar issue. One day wheel started to make knocking sound each time i turned right.. One knock each tire rotation. You would never guess what was at fault.. I even changed bearings for nothing... It was a ducking air valve hitting it's 2mm small gap on rim hole.  Somehow when valve was right on ground part, the tire would compress under weight and as valve moves away from ground, it would spring back making knock sound.. Whole week i was trying to find the issue.  

 

 

Edited November 2, 2022 by Funky

[Paul A]

31 minutes ago, Funky said:

This method is way better..

I even used this diy tool. When i changed my bearings:

 

@Funky  Brilliant, thank you very much. 

[mrelwood]

4 hours ago, Paul A said:

Any solvents required to help remove the old grease/contaminants?

I remove the bearing, let it sit in acetone for a while, slosh it around a bit, and clean the acetone remains with alcohol.

[Aztek]

I've been doing some free spinning to test the freestyler's pwm tiltback fw and noticed new motor noise...

Does this sound normal to you?

 

[Cerbera]

No, that doesn't sound entirely normal to me. It's close, but I can hear a high pitched whine / scraping mixed in with the regular noise that definitely isn't there on mine.

[Aztek]

3 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

No, that doesn't sound entirely normal to me. It's close, but I can hear a high pitched whine / scraping mixed in with the regular noise that definitely isn't there on mine.

Bearings removal and regreasing time I guess then...

I saw people do this, but are the bearings easily removed?

[Cerbera]

14 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Bearings removal and regreasing time I guess then...

I saw people do this, but are the bearings easily removed?

You don't have to, and nor would I try and remove them to re-grease them; not the bearing as a whole OR the individual balls. Or even open the motor hub or disconnect any wiring - just extract the motor, prise up the bearing seals with a dentist pick or exacto / craft knife and repack it from each side. I am not sure your sound IS a bearing issue though. It sounds more like a rubbing than the knocking or creaking we often hear with bearing problems.

Have you tried sliding bits of carboard in between case and hub to see if there is contact between them at any point ?

Edited November 15, 2022 by Cerbera

[Aztek]

10 minutes ago, Cerbera said:

Have you tried sliding bits of carboard in between case and hub to see if there is contact between them at any point ?

I can see the gap... No friction. And the metal crescendo roaring is heard only in high speed.

Might be insufficient and low quality grease which manifests as this noise at low ambient temperature. It is around 10 degrees Celsius.

Edited November 15, 2022 by Aztek

[Paul A]

Removing the seal on the bearings.

Seems to be much easier to insert the 'dentist pick/tool' on the edge near the 'donut hole', rather than the outer edge.

[Cerbera]

Careful - it is easy to bend the thin metal bearing covers as you pick them up, and if they do bend even a bit it's new bearings time ! Do it a tiny bit at a time from opposite sides, just working your way round. Yes the inside is easier to start with, but you'll need to selectively pick the outside too so it lifts evenly.

[Paul A]

https://www.bellperformance.com/bell-performs-blog/grease-compatibility-something-to-pay-attention-to

Mixing incompatible greases can have dire consequences. 

They may react together and cause a separation of the base oil or oils from the thickeners of the two greases. 

When this happens, the base oil can no longer stay in place and you get a messy situation – oil oozing or running out of the area where it was applied. 

You can probably guess the potential consequences that might follow from this happening.

[Aztek]

26 minutes ago, Paul A said:

Mixing incompatible greases can have dire consequences. 

That's exactly I was wondering about...

How can we know what is the right grease to add.

I guess, shear stable polyurea grease should be used. Like this.

Edited November 15, 2022 by Aztek

[Paul A]

11 minutes ago, Aztek said:

How can we know what is the right grease to add.

 

Table of compatability from the previous link.

Also, how do you know what grease is in the bearings now?

Alternatively, maybe just completely remove the old grease, then repack with new grease.

Solvents like acetone, isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), turpentine, degreasers etc....

Could just place bearings in a glass jar, pour in solvent to cover, let it sit for a while, use a toothpick if needed to extract any remaining old grease.

Use a cotton bud to remove last remaining bits of grease.

 

Or just buy new bearings.

Parts are cheap.....the labour and hassles/frustrations of how much work involved is the more expensive cost.

Edited November 15, 2022 by Paul A

[Cerbera]

I wouldn't stress about the grease or mixing it - both mine and goatman's were totally fine after cursory cleaning out of old stuff and LiquiMoly marine. Neither of us bothered with acetone soaks and whatnot...

I will re-inspect mine next week when I change the tyre, and see if the the seals are holding up OK and if anything looks leaky or uneven.

Edited November 15, 2022 by Cerbera

[Punxatawneyjoe]

In my opinion, i would never remove the seal and attempt to re-grease a bearing making noise. First off, no matter how gentle you are removing the cover. the cover will be damaged and never seal properly again. Secondly, if the bearing is making noise then the balls are not round anymore or the race is damaged. bearings are cheap and usually easily replaced. At least this has been my experience. The grease may help temporarily but any roughness in the bearing will result in eventual failure.

[Unipilot69]

These shit quality bearings don't seal all that well to begin with. I had a bearing failure on my RS at around 100 miles. I cleaned and repacked the replacement bearings. They've been through snow,mud, and heavy rain now for over 1500 miles. No issues. I even resurrected the failed bearing. The bearings on the first few batches of hollow bore motors were very large and very expensive for name brands. The bearings used now are cheap for name brand. If the repacking fails then just get name brand ones. Trying to pick the seal open on a name brand bearing has a higher chance of ruining it. They seal better and have better grease.

[Aztek]

I've ridden this master for.only 150 kilometers. The bearings cannot be damaged, I imagine.

Apart from this, the bearings are supposedly pressed with heavy industrial press in place which makes them both hard to remove and impossible to replace without the said press. I guess

[Magman116]

I just had my new Master start making bearing noise similar to what I experienced with my RS 19 HS.

I decided to repack the existing bearings with Mobile One Red Synthetic Bearing grease instead of replacing them. I don't know if it is the best grease to use or not, just what I had on hand.

I did order new high quality bearings, but figured it was worth it to try the repack.  It is easy enough to replace them in the future. Cheap bearings are under $20 each and the ones I ordered that eWheels recommended were $42 each.

After the repack, the bearings were so much smoother than before. I can say the stock bearings had very little grease in them. 

I have put about 70 miles on them since the repack and everything seems ok so far.

[mrelwood]

Mixing greases can be problematic, but so far I haven’t heard any issues with Liqui-Moly Marine Grease on top of any existing EUC bearing grease.

 When choosing the grease, be sure to choose one that has a viscosity no higher than 100 mm2/s! Some bearing greases are made for high duty applications and are much too thick for EUCs. Liqui-Moly Marine Grease is very good for this.

 

2 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

In my opinion, i would never remove the seal and attempt to re-grease a bearing making noise. First off, no matter how gentle you are removing the cover. the cover will be damaged and never seal properly again.

A good amount of grease are the outer edge of the bearing has seemed to solve that.

2 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

Secondly, if the bearing is making noise then the balls are not round anymore or the race is damaged.

No, the noise comes from contamination. There is a small amount of sand, mud or dirt in the bearing race which has been ground to very fine stuff. Removing the bearing and cleaning it up well before applying a good grease takes care if the noise. Just packing the bearing up with additional grease does not remove the contamination, so the noise will most probably come back once the greases have mixed well.

2 hours ago, Punxatawneyjoe said:

bearings are cheap and usually easily replaced.

I agree, new bearings should be the #1 solution for most. Not because the bearings can’t be cleaned and regreased, but because it’s not as simple as just replacing the bearings. An inexperienced person can easily miss a step or two.

 

32 minutes ago, Aztek said:

Apart from this, the bearings are supposedly pressed with heavy industrial press in place which makes them both hard to remove and impossible to replace without the said press. I guess

Bearings are usually quite easy to remove by a little play with temperatures.

 But be sure to align the motor covers and the rotator properly when you’re done! It’s best to only do one side at a time.

[Paul A]

1 hour ago, Aztek said:

Apart from this, the bearings are supposedly pressed with heavy industrial press in place which makes them both hard to remove and impossible to replace without the said press. I guess

 

Removing the bearings is easy with a DIY tool.

@Funky  posted this video earlier in this thread showing the tool.

Have made one and used it, it really works.  Much easier than using a blow torch to heat up the cover plate.

 

Use a pipe clip as a spacer on the inside of the cover plate.

 

 

Use an appropriate sized socket as a spacer on the outside of the cover plate to push the bearings.

 

 

Use a long threaded bolt, a few washers, a nut, two spanners.

 

The video.

 

When inserting the bearings back into the cover plate, use a block of wood with a hole drilled for the bolt, instead of the socket piece, to push the bearings.

Edited November 15, 2022 by Paul A

[Punxatawneyjoe]

4 hours ago, mrelwood said:

An inexperienced person can easily miss a step or two.

We will have to agree to disagree on the other stuff but we can agree here, and to that i would say if you are inexperienced you probably shouldn't be messing around with main bearings to a single wheel you are riding.