supercurio Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 (edited) Hi all! Since it's full winter here in Sweden (ice & snow) I'm thinking about reverting my Sherman to the knobby tire, then switch back to the street tire once the riding condition improve. However tire change is a bit of a pain, when disconnecting the siliconed + shrink wrap phase connectors from the board and having to redo everything later. That's why I'm thinking about adding connectors for the motor phase and hall sensor wires. Some wheels use connectors already, like the MT60 which is just fine on the Kingong 16X but seem undersized for the Sherman. So I'm thinking about XT150 as found on the Inmotion V12. Spec appears to be 150A continuous, 250A peak. That would match what the EUC controller outputs to such motor. Example:https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt150-connectors-w-6mm-gold-connectors-red-black-5pairs-bag.html Do you think it would be a reasonable modification? Also: I'm not sure what connector would be best for the hall sensor wire harness: must be safe with vibrations and resist oxidation. I think I would silicon it closed or hold it shut with a zip-tie. Edited January 11, 2022 by supercurio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tawpie Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 There's no reason that shouldn't work out. Keep in mind that when you're calculating the mean time between failures of an electronics assembly (MIL-217 etc.), the biggest contributor to failure rate has always been the connectors. I wouldn't cheap out on those. My 16X both silicones and zip ties the connectors for the hall sensors, just zip ties on the motor power connectors. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yxzygäilijä Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 I've used 3pcs XT30 connectors in hall sensor cables in my 16x. Original connector broke during tire change. XT's are very much better and more careless to work with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supercurio Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 (edited) Thanks! Yes these are the highest rating practical connectors I could find. Now I must make sure to get original Amass. In terms of failure risk, in worst case I mess up the connector soldering, but I hope to reduce the risk of messing up the board itself when handling this. Are there 5-pin connectors much more robust and reliable than others? Edited January 11, 2022 by supercurio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supercurio Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 3 minutes ago, Yxzygäilijä said: I've used 3pcs XT30 connectors in hall sensor cables in my 16x. Original connector broke during tire change. XT's are very much better and more careless to work with. Ahh, like a combination of MT30 (3-pin) and XT30 (3-pin) to arrive at a total of 5 pins, with no room for error when connecting them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yxzygäilijä Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 4 minutes ago, supercurio said: Ahh, like a combination of MT30 (3-pin) and XT30 (3-pin) to arrive at a total of 5 pins, with no room for error when connecting them? No, just the 2-pin XT connectors. 3pcs of them. I just have to be extra careful when connecting them so I don't mess up the wiring. It would be better to have two different connector types for safety but I didn't have other connectors at that time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 So are you planning on retaining the original brass barrels, or removing them and soldering a bullet direct to the board (like GW)? I would imagine it being quite difficult to get enough heat into the barrels without risking nearby components. On the other hand, leaving them in situ means adding further connections which as a rule I would stay away from. I appreciate that it would make swopping tyres easier, but personally I really don't like adding more potential failure points to anything, let alone something which would risk my life. I'm sure that Amass bullets are generally reliable, but is removing the 3 stock terminals really that much of a chore in the grand scheme of changing a tyre? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supercurio Posted January 11, 2022 Author Share Posted January 11, 2022 46 minutes ago, Planemo said: So are you planning on retaining the original brass barrels, or removing them and soldering a bullet direct to the board (like GW)? Yes I'm planning to keep everything on the board stock, and splice the existing phase wires to add the XT150 connectors, on the side of the wheel approximately where the fuse are installed. 46 minutes ago, Planemo said: I would imagine it being quite difficult to get enough heat into the barrels without risking nearby components. On the other hand, leaving them in situ means adding further connections which as a rule I would stay away from. I appreciate that it would make swopping tyres easier, but personally I really don't like adding more potential failure points to anything, let alone something which would risk my life. I'm sure that Amass bullets are generally reliable, but is removing the 3 stock terminals really that much of a chore in the grand scheme of changing a tyre? Oh yeah that wouldn't be a good idea to try to mod the board itself. I swapped the tire 2 times already and found the process a bit unnerving and lengthy when being thorough (removal, cleanup of the silicon residues, reconnection, heat-shrink, re-silicon, phew!) With 3x XT150 instead and a suitable connector for the hall sensor, it should be quicker and less error prone. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Planemo Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 Yeah no problem, if the reduction in hassle to you is worth it, coolio. I wouldn't do it myself though, unless I was removing the barrels. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kekafuch Posted January 12, 2022 Share Posted January 12, 2022 Is the heat shrink on the board necessary? I asked this question on the Veteran telegram and 2 responses basically said they never replaced the heat shrink. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number1stunner Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 On 1/12/2022 at 6:17 AM, Kekafuch said: Is the heat shrink on the board necessary? I asked this question on the Veteran telegram and 2 responses basically said they never replaced the heat shrink. The heat shrink isolates connectivity. I say it's essential.... Imagine a nut get loose and toyches a bare connector and ground itself.... Instant fail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Number1stunner Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 On 1/11/2022 at 8:15 PM, supercurio said: Yes I'm planning to keep everything on the board stock, and splice the existing phase wires to add the XT150 connectors, on the side of the wheel approximately where the fuse are installed. Oh yeah that wouldn't be a good idea to try to mod the board itself. I swapped the tire 2 times already and found the process a bit unnerving and lengthy when being thorough (removal, cleanup of the silicon residues, reconnection, heat-shrink, re-silicon, phew!) With 3x XT150 instead and a suitable connector for the hall sensor, it should be quicker and less error prone. It's actually a good idea similar to that of the Abrams connections ... Going forward this idea will no doubt be implemented in future wheels. 3x xt150 is fine but what about the hall sensor.... As another patron replied it's not ideal to have breaks in connections. However, as long as they're not weak points it makes sense rather than constantly getting to the board.... Although, I would say adding extra connections causes the issue of... How do you discharge the capacitors? where you would already need to open the lid to disconnect the battery anyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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